Starlight Evening Cardigan

A fitted mid-century evening cardigan in worsted-weight stockinette: hourglass waist, slip-stitch waistband, winged set-in shoulders, bias-knit collar, shaped cuffs, crochet edging, metallic chains, and beads. Worked flat in pieces from the hem up and seamed. Intermediate.

MATERIALS

• Yarn: Worsted weight wool or wool-blend, 1200 (1350, 1500, 1650, 1800) yards / 1095 (1235, 1370, 1510, 1645) m. (About 6 (7, 7, 8, 9) skeins of a 220 yd / 200 m, 100 g yarn.)
• Metallic thread: 1 spool embroidery-weight metallic thread, or about 50 yards (46 m) of fine metallic yarn, for the collar and cuff chains.
• Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) straight or circular needles for the main fabric; US 5 (3.75 mm) for the button bands. Or sizes needed to obtain gauge.
• Crochet hook: US G-6 (4 mm) for the edging.
• Notions: Stitch markers, tapestry needle, 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) buttons ⅝" (16 mm) diameter, sewing needle and matching thread, 50–100 round beads (pearl or crystal, 4–6 mm).

GAUGE

20 stitches and 26 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 7 (4.5 mm) needles, blocked.

Take time to check gauge. A difference of 1 stitch in 4" (10 cm) changes the bust by about 2" (5 cm).

SIZES

XS (S, M, L, XL)

To fit bust: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)" / 81.5 (91.5, 101.5, 112, 122) cm
Finished bust (buttoned): 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)" / 86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 117, 127) cm
Finished waist (buttoned): 32 (35, 38, 41, 44)" / 81.5 (89, 96.5, 104, 112) cm
Finished hip (buttoned): 38 (42, 44½, 48½, 51)" / 96.5 (106.5, 113, 123, 129.5) cm
Length to underarm: 12 (12½, 13, 13½, 14)" / 30.5 (31.5, 33, 34.5, 35.5) cm
Armhole depth: 7½ (7¾, 8, 8¼, 8½)" / 19 (19.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5) cm
Back neck width: 6½ (7½, 8, 8½, 8¾)" / 16.5 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 22) cm
Shoulder width: 5½ (6, 6¾, 7½, 8½)" / 14 (15, 17, 19, 21.5) cm
Upper arm: 12¾ (14, 14¾, 16, 17¼)" / 32.5 (35.5, 37.5, 40.5, 44) cm
Sleeve length to underarm (¾-length): 12½ (13, 13½, 14, 14½)" / 31.5 (33, 34.5, 35.5, 37) cm

Choose the size closest to your bust, then compare waist and hip. The waist is nipped; the hip has ease. Directions are for XS; changes for S, M, L, and XL are in parentheses.

ABBREVIATIONS

BO — bind off
CO — cast on
dec — decrease
hdc — half double crochet (US)
inc — increase
k — knit
k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
kfb — knit into front and back of stitch
M1L — make 1 left (lift strand between needles from front to back, knit through back loop)
M1R — make 1 right (lift strand between needles from back to front, knit through front loop)
p — purl
p2tog — purl 2 together
rem — remain(ing)
rep — repeat
RS — right side
sc — single crochet (US)
sl — slip stitch purlwise
sl st — slip stitch (crochet)
ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
st(s) — stitch(es)
St st — stockinette stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows)
WS — wrong side
wyib — with yarn in back
yo — yarn over

NOTES

• The cardigan is worked flat in pieces and seamed. Do not join in the round.
• Selvedge: The first and last stitch of every row are working stitches; seam them later.
• Increases: Unless a row is specified, work k1, M1L, work to last stitch, M1R, k1 on RS rows.
• Decreases at edges: On RS, ssk at the beginning of the row and k2tog at the end. On WS, p2tog at the beginning and ssp (slip 2 knitwise, return, p2tog through back loop) at the end — or p2tog at both ends if you prefer a simpler WS decrease.
• Waistband: The slipped-stitch rib pulls the waist in. Slip 2 purlwise with yarn in back on RS rows; purl every stitch on WS rows.
• Armhole increases are intentional. After the usual bind-offs and decreases, the body widens again to form a 1950s winged shoulder. The sleeve cap is shorter than the armhole depth; ease the extra body fabric in when setting the sleeve.
• Fronts: Armhole and neck shaping run at the same time. Read the whole Front section before you start the armhole. The checkpoint is the shoulder stitch count, not an intermediate count.
• Buttons: Women’s placement — buttonholes on the right front (as worn).
• Crochet terms are US. Original “half dc” = modern hdc.

BACK

With US 7 (4.5 mm) needles, CO 90 (100, 106, 116, 122) sts.

Work in St st for 1" (2.5 cm), ending with a WS (purl) row.

First waist decrease (RS): Knit 1 row, decreasing 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts evenly spaced — 82 (90, 96, 104, 110) sts.
(90 − 8 = 82; 100 − 10 = 90; 106 − 10 = 96; 116 − 12 = 104; 122 − 12 = 110 ✓)

Work even in St st for 1" (2.5 cm), ending with a WS row.

Second waist decrease (RS): Knit 1 row, decreasing 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) sts evenly spaced — 74 (80, 86, 92, 98) sts.
(82 − 8 = 74; 90 − 10 = 80; 96 − 10 = 86; 104 − 12 = 92; 110 − 12 = 98 ✓)

Work even in St st until the piece measures 3 (3¼, 3½, 3¾, 4)" / 7.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Waistband
The stitch count is 3 × n + 2, so the 3-stitch repeat ends with k2.

• Row 1 (RS): *K1, sl 2 wyib; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
• Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Rep Rows 1–2 until the waistband measures 1" (2.5 cm), ending with Row 2.

Bust increases
Return to St st. Inc 1 st at each end of the next RS row, then every 5th row 2 (4, 6, 8, 10) more times — 3 (5, 7, 9, 11) increase rows, 80 (90, 100, 110, 120) sts.
(3 × 2 = 6, 74 + 6 = 80; 5 × 2 = 10, 80 + 10 = 90; 7 × 2 = 14, 86 + 14 = 100; 9 × 2 = 18, 92 + 18 = 110; 11 × 2 = 22, 98 + 22 = 120 ✓)

Work even until the piece measures 12 (12½, 13, 13½, 14)" / 30.5 (31.5, 33, 34.5, 35.5) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes
BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows — 72 (80, 90, 98, 108) sts.
BO 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows — 64 (72, 82, 90, 100) sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of the next 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) rows — 60 (66, 74, 80, 88) sts.
(64 − 4 = 60; 72 − 6 = 66; 82 − 8 = 74; 90 − 10 = 80; 100 − 12 = 88 ✓)

Winged yoke: Inc 1 st at each end of the next RS row, then every RS row 13 (15, 16, 18, 19) more times — 14 (16, 17, 19, 20) increase rows, 88 (98, 108, 118, 128) sts.
(14 × 2 = 28, 60 + 28 = 88; 16 × 2 = 32, 66 + 32 = 98; 17 × 2 = 34, 74 + 34 = 108; 19 × 2 = 38, 80 + 38 = 118; 20 × 2 = 40, 88 + 40 = 128 ✓)

Work even until the armhole measures 7½ (7¾, 8, 8¼, 8½)" / 19 (19.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5) cm from the first armhole bind-off, ending with a WS row.

Shape shoulders
BO 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows — 70 (78, 86, 92, 100) sts.
BO 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows — 52 (58, 64, 66, 72) sts.
BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows — 32 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts.
(Shoulder each side: 9 + 9 + 10 = 28; 10 + 10 + 10 = 30; 11 + 11 + 12 = 34; 13 + 13 + 12 = 38; 14 + 14 + 14 = 42 ✓)

BO remaining 32 (38, 40, 42, 44) sts for the back neck.
(88 − 28 − 28 = 32; 98 − 30 − 30 = 38; 108 − 34 − 34 = 40; 118 − 38 − 38 = 42; 128 − 42 − 42 = 44 ✓)

FRONTS

Make two. The Right Front is written in full (as worn: center front at the beginning of RS rows, armhole at the beginning of WS rows). Work the Left Front as a mirror, reversing armhole and neck edges.

Right Front

With US 7 (4.5 mm) needles, CO 48 (53, 56, 61, 64) sts.

Work in St st for 1" (2.5 cm), ending with a WS row.

First waist decrease (RS): Knit 1 row, decreasing 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts evenly spaced — 44 (48, 51, 55, 58) sts.

Work even in St st for 1" (2.5 cm), ending with a WS row.

Second waist decrease (RS): Knit 1 row, decreasing 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts evenly spaced — 40 (43, 46, 49, 52) sts.
(48 − 4 − 4 = 40; 53 − 5 − 5 = 43; 56 − 5 − 5 = 46; 61 − 6 − 6 = 49; 64 − 6 − 6 = 52 ✓)

Work even until the piece measures 3 (3¼, 3½, 3¾, 4)" / 7.5 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Waistband
The stitch count is 3 × n + 1.

• Row 1 (RS): *K1, sl 2 wyib; rep from * to last st, k1.
• Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Rep Rows 1–2 until the waistband measures 1" (2.5 cm), ending with Row 2.

Bust increases
Return to St st. Inc 1 st at the side edge only (end of RS rows for the Right Front) on the next RS row, then every 5th row 2 (4, 6, 8, 10) more times — 3 (5, 7, 9, 11) side increases, 43 (48, 53, 58, 63) sts.
(40 + 3 = 43; 43 + 5 = 48; 46 + 7 = 53; 49 + 9 = 58; 52 + 11 = 63 ✓)
These rows match the Back side seam.

Work even until the piece measures 12 (12½, 13, 13½, 14)" / 30.5 (31.5, 33, 34.5, 35.5) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole and V-neck at the same time

Read this entire block before you knit it. Neck decreases start on the first RS row of this section; armhole bind-offs start on the first WS row. After that, follow each edge’s own rhythm until that edge is finished, then work even on that edge while the other continues.

Armhole edge (beginning of WS rows on the Right Front):
BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts once, then BO 2 sts at this edge twice, then dec 1 st at this edge every row 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) times. Then inc 1 st at the armhole edge every RS row 14 (16, 17, 19, 20) times.

Neck edge (beginning of RS rows on the Right Front):
Dec 1 st at the neck edge every RS row 19 (22, 23, 24, 25) times.

When the armhole measures 7½ (7¾, 8, 8¼, 8½)" / 19 (19.5, 20.5, 21, 21.5) cm from the first armhole bind-off, ending at the armhole edge, 28 (30, 34, 38, 42) sts rem.
(43 − 4 − 2 − 2 − 2 + 14 − 19 = 28; 48 − 5 − 2 − 2 − 3 + 16 − 22 = 30; 53 − 5 − 2 − 2 − 4 + 17 − 23 = 34; 58 − 6 − 2 − 2 − 5 + 19 − 24 = 38; 63 − 6 − 2 − 2 − 6 + 20 − 25 = 42 ✓)

If the neck decreases finish before the armhole depth, work even at the neck. If the armhole increases finish first, work even at the armhole until the correct depth.

Shape shoulder (armhole edge):
BO 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts at the armhole edge once, work 1 row even.
BO 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts at the armhole edge once, work 1 row even.
BO remaining 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts.
(9 + 9 + 10 = 28; 10 + 10 + 10 = 30; 11 + 11 + 12 = 34; 13 + 13 + 12 = 38; 14 + 14 + 14 = 42 ✓)

Left Front

Work as for Right Front, reversing all shapings:

• Side/bust increases at the beginning of RS rows.
• Armhole bind-offs and decreases at the beginning of RS rows.
• Neck decreases at the end of RS rows (k2tog).
• Shoulder bind-offs at the armhole edge (beginning of RS rows).

SLEEVES

Make two.

With US 7 (4.5 mm) needles, CO 40 (44, 46, 48, 52) sts.

Work in St st. Inc 1 st at each end of the 7th row, then every 4th row 11 (12, 13, 15, 16) more times — 12 (13, 14, 16, 17) increase rows, 64 (70, 74, 80, 86) sts.
(12 × 2 = 24, 40 + 24 = 64; 13 × 2 = 26, 44 + 26 = 70; 14 × 2 = 28, 46 + 28 = 74; 16 × 2 = 32, 48 + 32 = 80; 17 × 2 = 34, 52 + 34 = 86 ✓)

Work even until the sleeve measures 12½ (13, 13½, 14, 14½)" / 31.5 (33, 34.5, 35.5, 37) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape cap
BO 4 (5, 5, 6, 6) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows — 56 (60, 64, 68, 74) sts.
BO 2 sts at the beginning of the next 4 rows — 48 (52, 56, 60, 66) sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) times — 36 (38, 40, 42, 46) sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of every 4th row twice — 32 (34, 36, 38, 42) sts.
BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next 6 (6, 6, 8, 8) rows — 14 (16, 18, 14, 18) sts.
(32 − 18 = 14; 34 − 18 = 16; 36 − 18 = 18; 38 − 24 = 14; 42 − 24 = 18 ✓)
BO remaining 14 (16, 18, 14, 18) sts.

BUTTON_BANDS

Sew the shoulder seams first so the front edges are stable.

With US 5 (3.75 mm) needles and RS facing, beginning at the Right Front hem, pick up and knit 99 (103, 109, 115, 121) sts evenly along the entire Right Front edge to the shoulder (about 3 sts for every 4 rows). The count is odd so 1×1 rib begins and ends with k1.

• Row 1 (WS): *P1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.
• Row 2 (RS): *K1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.
• Row 3: Rep Row 1.

Buttonholes (Right Front only)
On the next RS row, work 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) buttonholes on the lower front only (hem to the start of V-neck), as follows.

Mark positions on the Left Front band later and copy them: the lowest buttonhole sits about ½" (1.5 cm) from the hem; the highest sits at the first neck decrease; the rest are spaced evenly between. At each mark, work yo, k2tog (if the next rib stitch is a knit) or yo, p2tog (if it is a purl), then continue in rib.

Work 4 more rows in established rib. BO loosely in rib.

With RS facing, pick up and knit 99 (103, 109, 115, 121) sts along the Left Front from shoulder to hem. Work 8 rows of 1×1 rib with no buttonholes. BO loosely in rib.

The bands are about 1" (2.5 cm) wide and overlap 1" (2.5 cm) when buttoned.

FINISHING

Block all pieces to the measurements in Sizes, including the extra yoke width at the shoulders. Do not flatten the waistband rib; steam it lightly so it still draws in.

Collar — Left Half

With US 7 (4.5 mm) needles, CO 16 (16, 18, 18, 20) sts.

Work in St st on the bias, keeping the stitch count constant:

• RS: Kfb, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog.
• WS: Purl.

Continue until the short selvedge measures 12 (12½, 13, 13½, 14)" / 30.5 (31.5, 33, 34.5, 35.5) cm.

Taper: Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row until 2 sts rem. BO.

Collar — Right Half

Work as for the Left Half, reversing the bias slant: on RS rows, ssk, knit to last st, kfb. Taper as for the Left Half.

Cuffs (make 2)

With US 7 (4.5 mm) needles, CO 11 (11, 11, 13, 13) sts. Purl 1 WS row.

Flare: Cast on 3 sts at the beginning of each WS (purl) row until 20 (20, 20, 22, 22) sts are on the needle.
(11 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 20; 13 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 22 ✓)

Work even in St st until the piece measures 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)" / 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm from the first flared row, ending with a RS row.

Taper: BO 3 sts at the beginning of each WS row until 11 (11, 11, 13, 13) sts rem. BO.

Assembly

1. Sew side seams and sleeve seams.
2. Set in the sleeves. The body armhole is longer than the cap because of the yoke increases — ease the extra fabric toward the top of the armhole. That ease is the winged shoulder.
3. Sew the inner (short) edge of each collar half from center front, along the V-neck, over the shoulder, and down the back neck. Overlap or abut the two halves at center back and at center front; stitch them down.
4. On each cuff, sew the two short (11- or 13-st) ends together for 1" (2.5 cm) at the cast-on/bind-off edge only. Sew the cuffs around the sleeve hems, flared side out, matching the 8½–10½" length to the sleeve circumference.

Crochet edging

With US G-6 (4 mm) hook and main yarn, work 1 round of hdc around the lower edge of the body, the neck opening (on top of the collar join), each sleeve hem, the outer edge of the collar, and the outer edge of each cuff. Join with sl st; fasten off.

Metallic chains

Outer chain: With metallic thread, chain a length that reaches around the outer edge of the collar. Turn, sl st in each chain back to the start. Fasten off. Make a second chain the same way for the two cuffs (one length that wraps both, or two separate lengths).

Inner chain (picot): With metallic thread, chain a length that reaches around the collar ½" (1.5 cm) in from the outer edge. Turn, sc in the 2nd chain from the hook, sc in the next 4 chains, *ch 3, sc in the next 5 chains; rep from * across. Fasten off. Repeat for the cuffs.

Sew the metallic chains in place along the collar and cuffs.

Beads and buttons

Sew beads along the inner and outer metallic chains, about ½" (1.5 cm) apart. Add a small cluster at each collar point if you like.

Sew buttons to the Left Front band opposite the buttonholes.

Weave in all ends. Give the seams and trim a light steam, avoiding the metallic thread if it is heat-sensitive.