Structured Small Purse

An Intermediate Crochet Pattern

A Note on Your Yarn & Hook Choice

You've asked to work 6 mm bulky acrylic yarn on a 2.5 mm hook (rather than the ~6 mm hook typically recommended for bulky yarn). This is an intentional, valid choice — it produces a very dense, stiff, firm fabric, which is actually excellent for a structured purse that needs to hold its shape. Please be aware:

• The work will feel tight and physically demanding; take breaks to protect your hands and wrists.
• Fabric will be thick and nearly rigid — perfect here, but slow-going.
• You will use more yarn than a standard bulky project of this size.

Because a structured purse benefits from firmness (not stretch), this pattern replaces the template's mesh-in-the-round construction with solid single-crochet worked flat and seamed. This is the key adaptation from the Market Tote Bag template.

Finished Measurements

Materials

• Yarn: Bulky (weight 5) acrylic yarn, 6 mm — approx. 150–180 yds (137–165 m). (Extra yardage accounts for the tight gauge.)
• Hook: 2.5 mm (US B/1–C/2 range) — per your request.
• Tapestry/yarn needle
• Stitch markers (2–3)
• Scissors
• Optional: sew-in magnetic snap or button for closure
• Optional: piece of stiff felt or plastic canvas cut to base size for extra structure

Gauge

18 sc × 20 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet, worked tightly on 2.5 mm hook with bulky yarn.

• Stitches per inch: 18 ÷ 4 = 4.5 sc/in
• Rows per inch: 20 ÷ 4 = 5 rows/in

Gauge check: Work a swatch of at least 25 sc × 25 rows. Because this gauge is unusually tight, verify carefully — measure the center, not the edges.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sc – single crochet
• sc2tog – single crochet 2 together (decrease)
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• rep – repeat

Construction Overview

The purse is worked in four flat pieces, then seamed:

1. Main body — one long rectangle worked as Back → Base → Front in continuous rows, so the base has no seam.
2. Two side gussets — narrow rectangles that give the purse its depth.
3. One handle strap — a long reinforced band.

You then seam the gussets between the front and back edges and attach the handle.

PART 1 — Main Body (Back / Base / Front)

The main body is one continuous rectangle. Total height needed: Back (5 in) + Base (2.5 in) + Front (5 in) = 12.5 in tall × 9 in wide.

Row math:

• Width: 9 in × 4.5 sts/in = 40.5 → 41 sts
• Total rows: 12.5 in × 5 rows/in = 62.5 → 63 rows
  • Back = 25 rows, Base = 13 rows, Front = 25 rows → 25 + 13 + 25 = 63 rows ✓

Foundation: Ch 42. (41 sts + 1 turning chain)

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (41 sc)

Rows 2–63: Ch 1 (does not count as st), sc in each st across. Turn. (41 sc each row)

Place a marker at the end of Row 25 and again at the end of Row 38 to mark the base section (rows 26–38 = the 13-row base).

• Rows 1–25 = Back panel
• Rows 26–38 = Base (13 rows ÷ 5 = 2.6 in ≈ 2.5 in ✓)
• Rows 39–63 = Front panel

Fasten off after Row 63. Weave in ends.

PART 2 — Side Gussets (Make 2)

Each gusset runs up one side and across the base. Its length must match: Front height + Base + Back height = 5 + 2.5 + 5 = 12.5 in, and its width equals the purse depth: 2.4 in.

Gusset math:

• Width: 2.4 in × 4.5 sts/in = 10.8 → 11 sts
• Length: 12.5 in × 5 rows/in = 63 rows (matches main body edge)

Foundation: Ch 12. (11 sts + 1 turning chain)

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (11 sc)

Rows 2–63: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (11 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail (~30 in / 75 cm) for seaming.

Repeat for the second gusset.

Consistency check: The gusset's 63-row length equals the main body's 63-row height, so the side seams align edge-to-edge with no easing. ✓

PART 3 — Handle Strap (Make 1)

A single long strap forms both attachment points, giving an 8 in drop.

• Drop = 8 in on each side; the strap spans across the top: 8 in + 8 in + a small span across the top opening.
• Total strap length: approx. 18 in (46 cm) worked, then folded/doubled for strength.
• Width: worked over 7 sts (~1.5 in), then folded lengthwise for a firm handle.

Foundation: Ch 8. (7 sts + 1 turning chain)

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (7 sc)

Rows 2–90: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (7 sc) (90 rows ÷ 5 = 18 in long ✓)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for attaching.

Reinforce the handle: Fold the strap in half lengthwise (WS together) and whip-stitch the long edges together with your yarn tail to form a firm, doubled 3-layer band. This prevents the dense fabric from stretching and sagging under weight.

PART 4 — Assembly & Finishing

Step 1 — Attach the gussets

Lay the main body flat, RS up. Identify:

• Back panel side edges (rows 1–25)
• Front panel side edges (rows 39–63)

Take one gusset. Using the long tail and a tapestry needle (or sl st with hook), seam one long edge of the gusset to the right-hand edge of the Back panel and continue down to the right-hand edge of the Front panel, so the gusset bridges the two side edges and stands upright when the purse is folded at the base.

Repeat with the second gusset on the left-hand side.

Tip: Fold the main body at the base section (rows 26–38) so Front and Back meet. The gusset's 63 rows should run smoothly along the combined front + base + back edge.

Step 2 — Shape the base corners (optional, for crisper structure)

At each lower corner where the gusset meets the base, tack the corner with 2–3 firm stitches to sharpen the box shape.

Step 3 — Attach the handle

• Pin one end of the handle to the inside top edge of the Back panel, about 2 in in from the side seam.
• Pin the other end to the inside top edge of the Front panel, 2 in from the same side seam (so the handle arcs over one long side).
• For a single top handle, this creates one 8 in drop loop. For a two-handle purse, make a second strap and attach symmetrically on the opposite side.
• Whip-stitch each end down securely through all layers, working a reinforcing square/X of stitches for strength.

Handle drop check: Strap length 18 in − ~2 in absorbed at each attachment = ~14 in usable arc → hanging drop ≈ 8 in. ✓

Step 4 — Top edge finishing

Work 1 round of sc evenly around the entire top opening (through Front, gusset, Back, gusset), skipping the handle attachment areas. Sl st to join, fasten off. This tidies the rim and adds rigidity.

Step 5 — Optional closure

Sew a magnetic snap or button-and-loop closure centered on the inside top edges of the Front and Back panels.

Step 6 — Optional base insert

Cut stiff felt or plastic canvas to 9 in × 2.4 in (23 cm × 6 cm) and drop it into the base for extra structure.

Step 7 — Weave in all ends.

Gently shape the purse. Because the fabric is dense, it will hold its structure well without blocking.

Final Measurement Verification

All pieces align edge-to-edge with no easing required. Enjoy your sturdy little purse!