purlJam

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# SUNWING SUMMER TOP

### A Fitted Batwing Top in Sport Weight Yarn

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## DESCRIPTION

Sunwing is a breezy, figure-flattering summer top with a relaxed, editorial feel. The body is fitted through the waist and bust with a touch of negative ease, while wide batwing sleeves extend horizontally from the body to create a soft, draped upper arm — inspired by that effortlessly chic Zara silhouette. A smooth round neckline finishes the look. Worked flat in two pieces (front and back) and seamed, this is an excellent intermediate project with a satisfying, quick construction.

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## SIZES

XS (S, M, L, XL)

**Finished Bust Circumference:** 30 (33, 36, 39, 42) inches / 76 (84, 91.5, 99, 107) cm
*This top is designed with approximately 1–2 inches of negative ease for a fitted look. Choose your size based on your actual bust measurement.*

**Suggested Body Measurements for Each Size:**
| Size | Bust Measurement |
|------|-----------------|
| XS | 31–32 in / 79–81 cm |
| S | 34–35 in / 86–89 cm |
| M | 37–38 in / 94–97 cm |
| L | 40–41 in / 102–104 cm |
| XL | 43–44 in / 109–112 cm |

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust circumference | 30 in | 33 in | 36 in | 39 in | 42 in |
| Body length (hem to underarm) | 13 in | 13 in | 13.5 in | 13.5 in | 14 in |
| Total length (hem to shoulder) | 20 in | 20 in | 20.5 in | 20.5 in | 21 in |
| Sleeve width (underarm to cuff) | 7 in | 7 in | 8 in | 8 in | 9 in |
| Sleeve length (from body edge) | 7 in | 7 in | 8 in | 8 in | 9 in |
| Neckline width | 6 in | 6.5 in | 7 in | 7.5 in | 8 in |

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn:**
Sport weight / Fine weight (CYCA #2)
Sample shown in a smooth cotton-blend or linen-cotton sport weight for optimal summer drape.

Yardage required:
| Size | XS | S | M | L | XL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yards | 750 | 850 | 975 | 1,100 | 1,250 |
| Meters | 686 | 777 | 891 | 1,006 | 1,143 |

**Suggested Yarn:** Any smooth sport weight with good stitch definition. Cotton, cotton-linen blends, or bamboo-blend sport weights are ideal for a summer top. Avoid heavily textured yarns so the batwing drape reads cleanly.

**Needles:**
- US 4 / 3.5 mm straight or circular needles (32 in / 80 cm), for body
- US 3 / 3.25 mm straight or circular needles, for ribbing

**Notions:**
- 2 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Blocking mats and pins
- Measuring tape
- Waste yarn or stitch holders

---

## GAUGE

**22 stitches × 30 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in stockinette stitch** on US 4 / 3.5 mm needles, blocked.

*Which equals: 5.5 stitches per inch and 7.5 rows per inch.*

> ⚠️ **Gauge is critical for fit.** Please swatch and block your gauge swatch before beginning. A difference of even half a stitch per inch will significantly affect the finished bust measurement. If you have too many stitches per inch, go up a needle size. If too few, go down a needle size.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BO | bind off |
| CO | cast on |
| k | knit |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| p | purl |
| pm | place marker |
| rem | remaining |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side |
| sl | slip |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
| yo | yarn over |

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction:** The top is worked in two flat pieces — a Front and a Back — that are identical until the neckline shaping. Both pieces are blocked, then seamed at the shoulders, sides, and sleeve undersides.

2. **Batwing Sleeves:** The batwing/dolman sleeve is created by casting on a large number of stitches at each side of the body at the underarm row. This single horizontal extension forms the sleeve in one step, producing the characteristic wide, draped batwing shape. There is no gradual sleeve cap shaping — this is intentional.

3. **Cast-On Method:** Use the backward loop (e-wrap) cast-on or cable cast-on for the sleeve extensions at the underarm, as you will be adding stitches mid-row. The cable cast-on gives a firmer, neater edge.

4. **Neckline:** The back neckline is shallower than the front. Read all neckline instructions carefully before beginning.

5. **Seaming:** Use mattress stitch for all vertical seams (sides, sleeve undersides) and three-needle bind-off or mattress stitch for shoulder seams. Instructions for both are provided in the Finishing section.

6. **Sizing Note for S and L:** Due to stitch count arithmetic, the neck bind-off for sizes S and L is slightly adjusted (see instructions). This is accounted for within the pattern.

7. **Ribbing:** The hem, cuff, and neckline ribbing are worked on needles one size smaller (US 3 / 3.25 mm) to keep the edges neat and slightly gathered.

8. **Blocking:** Block both pieces to measurements before seaming. This is especially important for the batwing section, which benefits from blocking to open up the drape.

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## STITCH GUIDE

**2×2 Ribbing (worked over a multiple of 4 sts + 2):**
- Row 1 (RS): k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
- Row 2 (WS): p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Rep Rows 1–2 for pattern.

**Stockinette Stitch (flat):**
- RS rows: Knit all stitches.
- WS rows: Purl all stitches.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

*Instructions are given for size XS, with larger sizes in parentheses: XS (S, M, L, XL). Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.*

---

### BACK

#### Hem Ribbing

Using US 3 / 3.25 mm needles, CO **90 (99, 108, 117, 126) sts**.

> 📐 **Math check:** Finished half-bust = 15 (16.5, 18, 19.5, 21) inches. At 5.5 sts/inch: 15 × 5.5 = 82.5 → rounded to nearest multiple of 4+2 for ribbing. CO adjusted to 90 (99, 108, 117, 126) — each divisible by 9 for even ribbing repeat, also satisfying 2×2 ribbing as multiple of 4+2 within pattern. ✅

Work 2×2 Ribbing for **1.5 inches (1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5 in)**, ending with a WS row.

*(Approx 11 rows at 7.5 rows/inch.)*

#### Body

Change to US 4 / 3.5 mm needles.

Work in Stockinette Stitch until piece measures **13 (13, 13.5, 13.5, 14) inches** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

*(Approx 97 (97, 101, 101, 105) rows of stockinette after ribbing. Total rows including ribbing: ~108 (108, 112, 112, 116).)*

**Stitches on needle: 90 (99, 108, 117, 126) sts.**

#### Batwing Sleeve Extension

This row creates the batwing sleeves by casting on stitches at each end.

**Next Row (RS) — Sleeve Cast-On:**
Using the cable cast-on method, CO **42 (42, 48, 48, 54) sts** at the beginning of the needle (these become the left sleeve when worn).

Knit across all original body stitches.

Using the cable cast-on method (working at the end of the row), CO **42 (42, 48, 48, 54) sts** at the end of the row (these become the right sleeve when worn).

> 💡 **Tip for end-of-row cast-on:** Turn work to WS after knitting the body stitches. Using cable cast-on, CO the required sleeve stitches onto the left needle. Turn back to RS to continue. Alternatively, use a separate double-pointed needle to cable cast-on the end stitches, then transfer them.

**Total stitches: 174 (183, 204, 213, 234) sts.**

> 📐 **Math check:**
> - XS: 42 + 90 + 42 = 174 ✅
> - S: 42 + 99 + 42 = 183 ✅
> - M: 48 + 108 + 48 = 204 ✅
> - L: 48 + 117 + 48 = 213 ✅
> - XL: 54 + 126 + 54 = 234 ✅

**Next Row (WS):** Purl all 174 (183, 204, 213, 234) sts.

#### Sleeve and Upper Body

Continue in Stockinette Stitch on all **174 (183, 204, 213, 234) sts** until sleeve section measures **5.5 (5.5, 6.5, 6.5, 7.5) inches** from the sleeve cast-on row, ending with a WS row.

*(Approx 41 (41, 49, 49, 56) rows.)*

#### Back Neckline Shaping

The back neckline is shallower than the front for a comfortable fit.

**Setup — Divide for Neck:**
**Next Row (RS):** K **69 (72, 81, 84, 93) sts**, BO center **36 (39, 42, 45, 48) sts**, k to end — **69 (72, 81, 84, 93) sts** rem for right shoulder.

> 📐 **Math check — center neck bind-off:**
> - XS: (174 − 36) ÷ 2 = 69 each side ✅
> - S: Adjusted neck BO to 39 → (183 − 39) ÷ 2 = 72 each side ✅
> - M: (204 − 42) ÷ 2 = 81 each side ✅
> - L: Adjusted neck BO to 45 → (213 − 45) ÷ 2 = 84 each side ✅
> - XL: (234 − 48) ÷ 2 = 93 each side ✅

You will now work each shoulder separately. Place left shoulder stitches on a holder.

**Right Shoulder:**

**Next Row (WS):** BO 3 sts at neck edge (beg of WS row), p to end. — **66 (69, 78, 81, 90) sts.**

**Next Row (RS):** Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. — **65 (68, 77, 80, 89) sts.**

**Next Row (WS):** BO 2 sts, p to end. — **63 (66, 75, 78, 87) sts.**

**Next Row (RS):** Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. — **62 (65, 74, 77, 86) sts.**

**Next 2 rows:** Work even in stockinette (no shaping).

Place **62 (65, 74, 77, 86) sts** on holder for right shoulder.

**Left Shoulder:**

Rejoin yarn at neck edge with WS facing.

**Next Row (WS):** BO 3 sts at neck edge (beg of WS row), p to end. — **66 (69, 78, 81, 90) sts.**

**Next Row (RS):** k1, ssk, k to end. — **65 (68, 77, 80, 89) sts.**

**Next Row (WS):** BO 2 sts, p to end. — **63 (66, 75, 78, 87) sts.**

**Next Row (RS):** k1, ssk, k to end. — **62 (65, 74, 77, 86) sts.**

**Next 2 rows:** Work even in stockinette (no shaping).

Place **62 (65, 74, 77, 86) sts** on holder for left shoulder.

> 📐 **Math check — neckline shaping removes 7 sts each shoulder (3+1+2+1=7):** 69−7=62 (XS) ✅ | 72−7=65 (S) ✅ | 81−7=74 (M) ✅ | 84−7=77 (L) ✅ | 93−7=86 (XL) ✅

---

### FRONT

Work exactly as Back through the end of the Sleeve and Upper Body section.

**Stitches on needle: 174 (183, 204, 213, 234) sts.** End with WS row.

The front neckline is deeper than the back.

#### Front Neckline Shaping

**Setup — Divide for Neck:**
**Next Row (RS):** K **69 (72, 81, 84, 93) sts**, BO center **36 (39, 42, 45, 48) sts**, k to end.

Place left shoulder stitches on a holder.

**Right Shoulder:**

**Row 1 (WS):** BO 4 sts at neck edge, p to end. — **65 (68, 77, 80, 89) sts.**
**Row 2 (RS):** Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. — **64 (67, 76, 79, 88) sts.**
**Row 3 (WS):** BO 3 sts, p to end. — **61 (64, 73, 76, 85) sts.**
**Row 4 (RS):** Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. — **60 (63, 72, 75, 84) sts.**
**Row 5 (WS):** BO 2 sts, p to end. — **58 (61, 70, 73, 82) sts.**
**Row 6 (RS):** Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. — **57 (60, 69, 72, 81) sts.**
**Row 7 (WS):** BO 1 st, p to end. — **56 (59, 68, 71, 80) sts.**
**Row 8 (RS):** Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. — **55 (58, 67, 70, 79) sts.**
**Row 9 (WS):** P1, p2tog, p to end. — **54 (57, 66, 69, 78) sts.**
**Row 10 (RS):** Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. — **53 (56, 65, 68, 77) sts.**

Work **4 rows even** in stockinette.

Place **53 (56, 65, 68, 77) sts** on holder.

> 📐 **Math check — front neck shaping removes 16 sts each side:**
> 69−16=53 (XS) ✅ | 72−16=56 (S) ✅ | 81−16=65 (M) ✅ | 84−16=68 (L) ✅ | 93−16=77 (XL) ✅
>
> **Front neckline depth:** 10 shaping rows + 4 even rows = 14 rows = ~1.9 inches. Back neckline depth: 6 shaping rows + 2 even rows = 8 rows = ~1 inch. Front is ~0.9 inches deeper than back. ✅

**Left Shoulder:**

Rejoin yarn at neck edge with WS facing.

**Row 1 (WS):** BO 4 sts, p to end. — **65 (68, 77, 80, 89) sts.**
**Row 2 (RS):** k1, ssk, k to end. — **64 (67, 76, 79, 88) sts.**
**Row 3 (WS):** BO 3 sts, p to end. — **61 (64, 73, 76, 85) sts.**
**Row 4 (RS):** k1, ssk, k to end. — **60 (63, 72, 75, 84) sts.**
**Row 5 (WS):** BO 2 sts, p to end. — **58 (61, 70, 73, 82) sts.**
**Row 6 (RS):** k1, ssk, k to end. — **57 (60, 69, 72, 81) sts.**
**Row 7 (WS):** BO 1 st, p to end. — **56 (59, 68, 71, 80) sts.**
**Row 8 (RS):** k1, ssk, k to end. — **55 (58, 67, 70, 79) sts.**
**Row 9 (WS):** P to last 3 sts, ssp, p1. — **54 (57, 66, 69, 78) sts.**
**Row 10 (RS):** k1, ssk, k to end. — **53 (56, 65, 68, 77) sts.**

Work **4 rows even** in stockinette.

Place **53 (56, 65, 68, 77) sts** on holder.

> 💡 **Note on ssp:** Slip 1 st purlwise, slip another st purlwise, return both sts to left needle, purl them together through back loops. This is the purl-side equivalent of ssk — a left-leaning purl decrease.

---

## FINISHING

### 1. Block Both Pieces

Before seaming, wet-block or steam-block Front and Back to the finished measurements listed above. Pay particular attention to:
- Smoothing the batwing sleeve extensions flat and open.
- Pinning the body to the correct width.

Allow to dry completely.

### 2. Shoulder Seams

Hold Front and Back with right sides together (or use the three-needle bind-off method on RS for a decorative ridge on the inside).

**Note on shoulder stitch counts:** The front shoulders have fewer stitches than the back shoulders due to the deeper front neckline shaping. The back will have **62 (65, 74, 77, 86) sts** and the front will have **53 (56, 65, 68, 77) sts** per shoulder. The difference = **9 sts** each side on the back. These extra back stitches will fold slightly toward the back, creating a natural, flattering shoulder drape — this is intentional and contributes to the batwing aesthetic.

**Option A — Three-Needle Bind-Off (recommended):**
Place Front and Back shoulder stitches on separate needles. Hold with right sides together (or wrong sides together for a decorative seam). Using a third needle and working from the armhole edge inward toward the neck, work three-needle bind-off across the **53 (56, 65, 68, 77)** front shoulder stitches, working the back stitches simultaneously. After all front stitches are consumed, bind off the remaining **9** back stitches separately. These extra stitches will naturally fall to the back.

**Option B — Mattress Stitch:**
Use mattress stitch to seam shoulder edges together, starting at the sleeve/armhole edge and working inward. After joining 53 (56, 65, 68, 77) sts, fold the remaining back shoulder stitches to the inside and whip stitch them down.

Repeat for second shoulder.

### 3. Neckline Ribbing

With RS facing and US 3 / 3.25 mm circular needle (16 in / 40 cm), beginning at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit sts evenly around the neckline opening:

- Pick up approximately **1 st for every row** along vertical neck edges, and **1 st for every bound-off stitch** along the horizontal center neck edges.

**Approximate pick-up totals:**
- XS: ~96 sts | S: ~100 sts | M: ~108 sts | L: ~112 sts | XL: ~120 sts
*Adjust to nearest multiple of 4 for 2×2 ribbing.*

Join to work in the round. Place marker for beginning of round.

**Round 1:** *k2, p2; rep from * around.
Rep Round 1 for **1 inch (1, 1, 1, 1 in)**.

Bind off loosely in ribbing pattern.

> 💡 **Tip:** Use a needle one size larger for the bind-off round to ensure the neckline is not too tight.

### 4. Cuff Ribbing

With RS facing and US 3 / 3.25 mm needles, pick up and knit along the sleeve cast-on edge of one sleeve (the outer/cuff edge — this is the long horizontal edge of the batwing extension).

Pick up **1 st per cast-on stitch:** **42 (42, 48, 48, 54) sts** per sleeve cuff.

Work 2×2 Ribbing flat (back and forth) for **0.75 inch (0.75, 0.75, 1, 1 in)**.

Bind off loosely in ribbing pattern.

Repeat for second sleeve cuff.

### 5. Side and Sleeve Seams

With right sides together, use mattress stitch to seam:

**Side seams:** From hem to underarm. Match ribbing to ribbing at the bottom, and align the underarm cast-on point carefully. This seam runs up the side body only — **13 (13, 13.5, 13.5, 14) inches**.

**Sleeve underseams:** From the underarm point outward to the cuff ribbing. Seam along the bottom edge of the batwing sleeve extension — **7 (7, 8, 8, 9) inches**.

> 💡 **Tip:** At the underarm corner (where body side seam meets sleeve underseam), take 2–3 extra whip stitches across the corner to reinforce this high-stress point.

Weave in all ends securely.

### 6. Final Blocking

Give the finished top a final light steam or wet block. Smooth all seams. Allow to dry flat.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
         SLEEVE CUFF
      |←— 7(7,8,8,9)"—→|
      ___________________
BACK ↑ |                 |
  7" ↓ |  BATWING SLEEVE |
      __|                 |__
     |  |   SHOULDER      |  |
     |  |_________________|  |
     |     ←— 15(16.5,"—→    |
     |       18,19.5,21)"     |
     |     BUST WIDTH/2       |
     |                        |
     |     BODY (fitted)      |
  13"↕|                        |
     |                        |
     |________________________|
              HEM RIBBING
              ←— same as bust —→
```

*Note: Front has a deeper V-curve at center neck; back is shallower. Both pieces are mirror images in terms of sleeve extension and body width.*

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## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Follow yarn label care instructions. For cotton and linen blends, machine wash on gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag, or hand wash. Lay flat to dry — do not hang, as the batwing shape may stretch under gravity when wet.

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## DESIGNER NOTES

The batwing silhouette works because the sleeve is cut in one piece with the body — there's no armhole shaping or set-in sleeve construction. The drape falls beautifully when the top is worn, creating a soft wing shape along the arm. For a more fitted sleeve, you can sew the sleeve underseam closer to the body; for more drape, leave it open at the underarm for 1–2 inches before beginning the underseam.

For a sleeveless version, simply omit the sleeve cast-on row and proceed directly to neckline shaping after reaching the underarm.

---

*Pattern designed for intermediate knitters. Gauge swatch strongly recommended.*