Sweet Pea Matinee Cardigan

A classic baby matinee cardigan in DK-weight yarn. Worked flat in stockinette stitch with 1×1 rib, set-in sleeves, and picked-up button bands. Five sizes; for a 12-month-old, follow the third figure throughout.

MATERIALS

Yarn: DK weight (CYC 3), approximately 275 (325, 375, 425, 500) yd / 250 (300, 345, 390, 460) m. A soft superwash merino or merino-blend baby DK is ideal.

Needles:

• US 4 / 3.5 mm straight or circular needles (ribbing)
• US 6 / 4 mm straight or circular needles (stockinette)
• Circular needles are used flat; a 16" / 40 cm or 24" / 60 cm length is comfortable

Notions:

• Tapestry needle
• Stitch markers
• Stitch holders or spare yarn
• 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) buttons, ½" / 13 mm diameter
• Sewing needle and thread to match buttons

GAUGE

22 stitches and 28 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette stitch on US 6 / 4 mm needles, blocked.

Check gauge and change needle size if needed. A ½" / 1 cm difference in chest width is about 3 stitches.

SIZES

3 months (6 months, 12 months, 18 months, 24 months)

Instructions are written for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. For a 12-month-old baby, use the third size.

Ease is about 2–4" / 5–10 cm so the cardigan sits neatly over a onesie or shirt.

ABBREVIATIONS

• BO — bind off
• CO — cast on
• dec — decrease
• inc — increase
• k — knit
• k2tog — knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
• kfb — knit into the front and back of the same stitch (1 stitch increased)
• p — purl
• pm — place marker
• rem — remain(ing)
• rep — repeat
• RS — right side
• ssk — slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit the 2 slipped stitches together through the back loop (left-leaning decrease)
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• St st — stockinette stitch (knit RS rows, purl WS rows)
• WS — wrong side
• yo — yarn over

NOTES

• The cardigan is worked flat, from the bottom up, in five pieces: back, left front, right front, and two sleeves. Pieces are seamed, then button bands and neckband are picked up.
• Stockinette stitch: knit on RS rows, purl on WS rows.
• 1×1 rib (even stitch count): *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
• Sleeve increases use kfb. Armhole and neck decreases use ssk (left edge) and k2tog (right edge).
• Keep a firm, even tension at edges; these stitches are used for seaming.
• Buttons: sew on very firmly with sewing thread, going through each hole several times. Check buttons before every wear. Do not leave a baby unattended with a buttoned garment if a button could come loose.
• Block pieces to measurements before seaming. Wet-block or steam-block according to your yarn.

BACK

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles, CO 50 (56, 60, 66, 72) sts.

Ribbing: Work in 1×1 rib (*k1, p1; rep from * to end) until piece measures 1¼" / 3 cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Change to US 6 / 4 mm needles.

Body: Work in St st until piece measures 6¼ (7, 8¼, 9, 9½)" / 16 (18, 21, 23, 24) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armholes

BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. 44 (50, 52, 58, 62) sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times as follows:

• RS decrease row: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
• WS row: purl.

38 (44, 46, 50, 54) sts remain.
(50 − 3 each side − 3 dec each side = 50 − 6 − 6 = 38 ✓)
(56 − 6 − 6 = 44 ✓; 60 − 8 − 6 = 46 ✓; 66 − 8 − 8 = 50 ✓; 72 − 10 − 8 = 54 ✓)

Work even in St st until armhole measures 3¾ (4, 4¼, 4½, 5)" / 9.5 (10, 11, 11.5, 12.5) cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape shoulders

BO 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. 18 (22, 22, 24, 26) sts remain.

BO remaining 18 (22, 22, 24, 26) sts.
(38 − 10 − 10 = 18 ✓; 44 − 11 − 11 = 22 ✓; 46 − 12 − 12 = 22 ✓; 50 − 13 − 13 = 24 ✓; 54 − 14 − 14 = 26 ✓)

FRONTS

Left Front (as worn)

This is the wearer’s left side (your right when looking at the cardigan). The neck edge is at the beginning of RS rows; the armhole is at the end of RS rows. The button band (no holes) will be picked up along the neck/center-front edge later.

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles, CO 22 (24, 28, 30, 34) sts.

Ribbing: Work in 1×1 rib until piece measures 1¼" / 3 cm, ending with a WS row.

Change to US 6 / 4 mm needles.

Body: Work in St st until piece measures 6¼ (7, 8¼, 9, 9½)" / 16 (18, 21, 23, 24) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a RS row.

Shape armhole

Next row (WS): BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts, purl to end. 19 (21, 24, 26, 29) sts.

Dec 1 st at the armhole edge (end of RS rows) every RS row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times:

• RS decrease row: k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
• WS row: purl.

16 (18, 21, 22, 25) sts remain.
(22 − 3 − 3 = 16 ✓; 24 − 3 − 3 = 18 ✓; 28 − 4 − 3 = 21 ✓; 30 − 4 − 4 = 22 ✓; 34 − 5 − 4 = 25 ✓)

Work even until armhole measures 1½ (1½, 1¾, 1¾, 2)" / 4 (4, 4.5, 4.5, 5) cm, ending with a WS row.

Shape neck

Next row (RS): BO 3 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, knit to end. 13 (14, 16, 17, 19) sts.

Purl 1 WS row.

Dec 1 st at the neck edge (beginning of RS rows) every RS row 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) times:

• RS decrease row: k1, ssk, knit to end.
• WS row: purl.

10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts remain.
(16 − 3 − 3 = 10 ✓; 18 − 4 − 3 = 11 ✓; 21 − 5 − 4 = 12 ✓; 22 − 5 − 4 = 13 ✓; 25 − 6 − 5 = 14 ✓)

Work even until armhole measures 3¾ (4, 4¼, 4½, 5)" / 9.5 (10, 11, 11.5, 12.5) cm, matching the Back, ending with a WS row.

BO remaining 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts.

Right Front (as worn)

This is the wearer’s right side. The armhole is at the beginning of RS rows; the neck edge is at the end of RS rows. Buttonholes will be worked later on the picked-up band.

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles, CO 22 (24, 28, 30, 34) sts.

Ribbing: Work in 1×1 rib until piece measures 1¼" / 3 cm, ending with a WS row.

Change to US 6 / 4 mm needles.

Body: Work in St st until piece measures 6¼ (7, 8¼, 9, 9½)" / 16 (18, 21, 23, 24) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape armhole

Next row (RS): BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts, knit to end. 19 (21, 24, 26, 29) sts.

Next row (WS): purl.

Dec 1 st at the armhole edge (beginning of RS rows) every RS row 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times:

• RS decrease row: k1, ssk, knit to end.
• WS row: purl.

16 (18, 21, 22, 25) sts remain. (same arithmetic as Left Front ✓)

Work even until armhole measures 1½ (1½, 1¾, 1¾, 2)" / 4 (4, 4.5, 4.5, 5) cm, ending with a RS row.

Shape neck

Next row (WS): BO 3 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts, purl to end. 13 (14, 16, 17, 19) sts.

Dec 1 st at the neck edge (end of RS rows) every RS row 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) times:

• RS decrease row: knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
• WS row: purl.

10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts remain. (same arithmetic as Left Front ✓)

Work even until armhole measures 3¾ (4, 4¼, 4½, 5)" / 9.5 (10, 11, 11.5, 12.5) cm, matching the Back, ending with a WS row.

BO remaining 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts.

SLEEVES

Make 2 alike.

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles, CO 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts.

Cuff: Work in 1×1 rib until piece measures 1¼" / 3 cm, ending with a WS row.

Change to US 6 / 4 mm needles.

Work 2 rows in St st.

Increase row (RS): k1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. (2 sts increased)

Work increases as above every 8th (6th, 8th, 10th, 8th) row 3 (4, 4, 4, 5) more times — 4 (5, 5, 5, 6) increase rows total.

38 (42, 44, 46, 50) sts.
(30 + 2×4 = 38 ✓; 32 + 2×5 = 42 ✓; 34 + 2×5 = 44 ✓; 36 + 2×5 = 46 ✓; 38 + 2×6 = 50 ✓)

Work even in St st until sleeve measures 6 (6½, 7½, 8½, 9½)" / 15 (16.5, 19, 21.5, 24) cm from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Shape cap

BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. 32 (36, 36, 38, 40) sts.

Dec 1 st at each end of every RS row 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) times:

• RS decrease row: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
• WS row: purl.

20 (22, 22, 24, 24) sts remain.
(32 − 2×6 = 20 ✓; 36 − 2×7 = 22 ✓; 36 − 14 = 22 ✓; 38 − 14 = 24 ✓; 40 − 16 = 24 ✓)

BO 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. 16 (18, 18, 20, 20) sts.

BO remaining 16 (18, 18, 20, 20) sts.

BUTTON_BANDS

Sew both shoulder seams first (see Finishing), using mattress stitch. Do not sew side or sleeve seams yet — or sew them if you prefer to pick up on a more assembled cardigan; either order works.

Left Front Band (button band)

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles and RS facing, beginning at the Left Front neck edge and working down to the hem, pick up and knit 49 (55, 63, 69, 75) sts evenly along the center-front edge.

(Aim for about 5 sts per inch / 2 sts per cm of vertical edge. Odd count keeps 1×1 rib with a knit stitch at both ends.)

Row 1 (WS): *p1, k1; rep from * to last st, p1.

Row 2 (RS): *k1, p1; rep from * to last st, k1.

Rep Rows 1–2 until band measures 1" / 2.5 cm, ending with a WS row.

BO in rib.

Place 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) markers along this band for button placement: the lowest about ½" / 1.5 cm from the hem, the highest about ½" / 1.5 cm below the neck edge, and the rest spaced evenly between.

Right Front Band (buttonhole band)

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles and RS facing, beginning at the Right Front hem and working up to the neck edge, pick up and knit 49 (55, 63, 69, 75) sts evenly along the center-front edge.

Work Rows 1–2 of rib as for the Left Front Band once (2 rows), then work Row 1 once more (3 rows of rib completed).

Buttonhole row (RS): Work in established rib, making 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) buttonholes to match the markers on the Left Front Band. For each buttonhole: yo, k2tog (if the next rib stitch is a knit) or yo, p2tog (if the next rib stitch is a purl). Count stitches between holes so they line up with the markers.

Continue in 1×1 rib until the band measures 1" / 2.5 cm, matching the Left Front Band, ending with a WS row.

BO in rib.

Traditional boys’ cardigans reverse the bands (buttonholes on the wearer’s left). Swap the two bands if you prefer that.

Neckband

With US 4 / 3.5 mm needles and RS facing, beginning at the Right Front band top edge, pick up and knit:

• 6 sts across the top of the Right Front band
• 12 (14, 16, 16, 18) sts along the Right Front neck slope
• 18 (22, 22, 24, 26) sts across the Back neck
• 12 (14, 16, 16, 18) sts along the Left Front neck slope
• 6 sts across the top of the Left Front band

54 (62, 66, 68, 74) sts.
(6 + 12 + 18 + 12 + 6 = 54 ✓; 6 + 14 + 22 + 14 + 6 = 62 ✓; 6 + 16 + 22 + 16 + 6 = 66 ✓; 6 + 16 + 24 + 16 + 6 = 68 ✓; 6 + 18 + 26 + 18 + 6 = 74 ✓)

Work 5 rows in 1×1 rib, beginning WS with *p1, k1; rep from * to end (even count).

BO in rib.

FINISHING

1. Block all pieces (and bands, if already worked) to the schematic measurements. Allow to dry fully.
2. Shoulder seams: If not already sewn, join Front and Back shoulders with mattress stitch. Each shoulder is 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) sts wide.
3. Set in sleeves: Pin the sleeve cap into the armhole, matching the sleeve underarm bind-off to the body underarm bind-off and the cap center to the shoulder seam. Ease the extra cap fabric evenly around the top curve. Sew with mattress stitch or backstitch.
4. Side and sleeve seams: Sew each side seam from hem to underarm, then continue along the sleeve from underarm to cuff, in one pass if you like.
5. Bands: If you have not yet worked the button bands and neckband, do so now.
6. Buttons: Sew buttons to the Left Front band at the markers, using sewing thread. Anchor each button with several passes and, for extra security, sew a small backing button or a few extra stitches on the WS.
7. Weave in all ends. Steam the seams lightly if the yarn allows.

Care: Follow the ball-band. Superwash DK may be machine-washed gentle and laid flat to dry. Check buttons after washing.

Wear with a onesie and a pair of booties — a proper little matinee outing.