purlJam

---

# SÍDHE SWIRL SHAWL
### An all-over travelling leaf lace shawl in 2-ply mohair

---

## DESCRIPTION

This dramatic asymmetric shawl is constructed from a three-stitch garter tab at the top centre, growing outward via a swirling spine of yarn-over increases that creates a sweeping crescent shape. An all-over travelling leaf lace pattern — shifting one repeat diagonally every twelve rows — follows the swirl of the shawl, giving the impression of leaves spiralling outward in a gust of wind. Worked in a fine 2-ply mohair on larger needles for an airy, haloed fabric, this is a project for an experienced lace knitter who is comfortable reading charts, placing markers, and working mohair with patience and care. Blocking is transformative and essential.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (blocked)

| Measurement | Metric | Imperial |
|---|---|---|
| Wingspan (upper edge) | 160 cm | 63 in |
| Depth at centre | 70 cm | 27½ in |

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**
- 2-ply mohair laceweight (such as Rowan Kidsilk Haze, 70% super kid mohair / 30% silk, 210 m / 25 g per ball)
- **Quantity**: 6 × 25 g balls (approximately 1,260 m / 1,378 yds total)
- **Colour shown**: deep teal (or your choice)

> **Note on yarn weight**: Although this pattern is classified under a worsted-needle project, 2-ply mohair is a laceweight fibre knitted on larger-than-standard needles (5 mm) to achieve its characteristically open, cloud-like fabric. The resulting tension matches a light worsted fabric in terms of drape and needle size, while the stitch definition is lacy and airy.

**Needles**
- 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) circular needle, 80 cm (32 in) or longer, for body
- 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) circular needle, 80 cm (32 in) or longer, for cast-on and cast-off
- 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) dpns or short circular, for garter tab (optional)

**Notions**
- 6 locking stitch markers (SM) in two colours: 2 in Colour A (spine markers), 4 in Colour B (lace section dividers)
- Tapestry needle
- Rustproof blocking pins (at least 30)
- Blocking mats or towels
- Spray bottle

---

## TENSION (GAUGE)

**16 sts × 24 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm (4 in × 4 in)**
Measured over Leaf Lace Pattern on 5 mm needles, after blocking.

> **Important**: Tension is measured *after blocking*. Mohair opens dramatically with wet blocking. Swatch generously (at least 30 sts × 36 rows), wash and pin to measurements before measuring. If your tension is tighter, go up a needle size; if looser, go down a needle size.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| yo | yarn over (creates a new stitch and a decorative hole) |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, knit 2 slipped sts together through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| sk2p | slip 1 kwise, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over (double decrease, 3 sts → 1 st, centred) |
| kfb | knit into the front and back of the same stitch (increase, 1 st → 2 sts) |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| SM | slip marker |
| PM | place marker |
| rep | repeat |
| rem | remaining |
| tbl | through the back loop |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind/cast off |
| [ ] | work instructions inside brackets the number of times stated |
| * … * | repeat instructions between asterisks as directed |

---

## PATTERN NOTES

**1. Construction overview**
The shawl begins with a 3-stitch garter tab cast-on, which creates a neat, rolled starting edge at the top centre. After picking up stitches from the tab, you will have 7 working stitches arranged across the needle. Two *spine markers* (Colour A) flank a central column of 3 stitches; two yarn-overs flank the spine on every right-side row, and one yarn-over is worked at each outer edge, giving **4 increase stitches per RS row**.

**2. The swirl**
The "swirl" effect arises from the asymmetric placement of the spine: it is positioned one-third of the way across the shawl rather than at the exact centre. The left section (between the spine and the left edge) grows at the same rate as the right section (between the spine and the right edge), but because the spine is offset, the two sections reach different widths, creating a crescent-like curve when blocked. The spine sits at approximately st 1 to st 3 of every RS row, while the leaf motif sections grow outward to the left and right independently.

**3. Travelling leaf pattern**
The Leaf Lace pattern is a 12-stitch × 12-row repeat. As the shawl widens, complete repeats are added to each section. Crucially, every 12 rows, the leaf motif is shifted by 6 stitches (half a repeat) to the left on the left wing, and 6 stitches to the right on the right wing. This half-repeat offset on alternating 12-row sections is what creates the *travelling* or *spiralling* visual movement across the fabric.

**4. Working with mohair**
- Work slowly and carefully; mohair fibres cling together, making it very difficult to unknit (tink). Use a lifeline (a length of smooth cotton yarn threaded through live stitches on a needle) every 12 rows.
- Work in good light.
- Do not use a needle with a sharp join between the cable and the tip — snags in mohair are very hard to undo.
- Count stitches on every RS row.

**5. Stitch count milestones**
Stitch counts are given at the end of key sections. These are your checkpoints. If your count is off by an even number, you have likely missed a yarn-over. If off by an odd number, you have likely made an extra decrease somewhere.

**6. Charts**
Written instructions are provided for every row. A schematic chart description (Leaf Chart A and Leaf Chart B, representing the two offset versions) is also detailed in the Lace Chart section. Advanced knitters are encouraged to transfer these to charting software of their choice.

---

## PATTERN NOTES: SWIRL STRUCTURE IN DETAIL

The shawl has three zones on every row:

```
LEFT EDGE | LEFT WING | SM-A | SPINE | SM-A | RIGHT WING | RIGHT EDGE
```

- **Left edge**: 3-stitch garter selvedge.
- **Left wing**: grows by 2 stitches per RS row (1 yo near spine, 1 yo near edge). Leaf lace is worked here.
- **Spine**: permanent 3 stitches, always knitted on both RS and WS rows.
- **Right wing**: grows by 2 stitches per RS row (1 yo near spine, 1 yo near edge). Leaf lace is worked here.
- **Right edge**: 3-stitch garter selvedge.

The spine is positioned **asymmetrically**: after the setup, the spine starts 1 stitch from the left side (so the left wing begins with very few stitches and grows alongside the right wing, but the proportions shift over time because increases are added symmetrically to both sides). The dramatic swirl emerges from blocking the longer right wing into a downward arc.

> **Designer's note**: For the purist, the true swirl is achieved in construction — both wings grow at the same rate (2 sts per RS row each), but the *right wing is begun with 1 extra set-up stitch*, making it always 2 stitches wider than the left wing at any given row. This small asymmetry, accumulated over 156 RS rows, produces a wingspan difference of ~4 cm between the two wings, enough to create the characteristic swirl when pinned and blocked.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: GARTER TAB CAST-ON

Using the 4.5 mm needles and the backwards-loop method (or your preferred provisional cast-on), **CO 3 sts**.

**Rows 1–10 (garter tab)**: Knit every row.

After row 10, do not turn. Rotate work 90° clockwise. Pick up and knit **1 stitch from each of the 5 garter ridges along the left edge of the tab** (5 sts picked up). Rotate 90° clockwise again. Pick up and knit **1 stitch from each of the original 3 cast-on stitches** (3 sts picked up).

You now have **3 (tab) + 5 (edge) + 3 (cast-on edge) = 11 stitches** on the needle.

Switch to 5 mm needles.

**Setup Row (WS)**: K3, PM-B, p1, PM-A, k3 (spine), PM-A, p1, PM-B, k3.
*(11 sts: 3 edge + 1 + spine 3 + 1 + 3 edge)*

---

### SECTION 2: INCREASE FOUNDATION (Rows 1–12)

These rows establish the increase structure before the leaf lace begins. The wings are too narrow for full lace repeats in these first rows; instead, work a simple yarn-over mesh in the wing sections.

**RS Increase Row (all RS rows in this section)**:
K3, SM-B, yo, *knit to SM-A*, yo, SM-A, k3 (spine), SM-A, yo, *knit to SM-B*, yo, SM-B, k3.
*(+4 sts every RS row)*

**WS Row (all WS rows in this section)**:
K3, SM-B, purl to SM-A, SM-A, k3 (spine), SM-A, purl to SM-B, SM-B, k3.

Work Rows 1–12 as above (6 RS rows, 6 WS rows).

**Stitch count after Row 12**: 11 + (6 × 4) = **35 sts**
*(Left edge 3 + left wing 10 + spine 3 + right wing 10 + right edge... wait — let's verify precisely below)*

> **Inline stitch count verification**:
> Start: 11 sts (3 + 1 + 3 + 1 + 3; note the single sts on each side of spine are the initial "wing" sts).
> Each RS row adds 4 sts: yo each side of the spine (×2) + yo each side of the wing outer edges (×2).
> After 6 RS rows: 11 + 24 = **35 sts**.
> Breakdown: left edge 3 | left wing 12 | SM-A | spine 3 | SM-A | right wing 12 | right edge 3 | ... 
> Wait: 3 + 12 + 3 + 12 + 3 = 33. Discrepancy of 2.
>
> **Correction**: The two yo stitches flank the spine *inside* the wing markers, so they count within the wing sts. At setup we had: 3 + 1 + 3 + 1 + 3 = 11. After 6 RS rows, each wing grows by 2 sts per RS row (one yo near spine, one yo near outer edge, both added within the wing section between the markers). 
> Left wing: 1 + (6 × 2) = 13 sts. Right wing: 1 + (6 × 2) = 13 sts.
> Total: 3 + 13 + 3 + 13 + 3 = **35 sts**. ✅

---

### SECTION 3: INTRODUCING THE LEAF LACE (Rows 13–24)

The leaf lace begins once each wing holds at least 12 stitches (enough for one full 12-stitch leaf repeat, plus edge stitches). At Row 13, each wing has 13 stitches: use 12 for the leaf repeat and 1 as a selvedge stitch between the lace and the garter edge.

#### THE LEAF LACE PATTERN

The leaf is worked over **12 stitches and 12 rows**. The motif creates a central elongated leaf with a double decrease at the tip, paired yarn-over increases creating the leaf's body, and simple knit/purl background rows.

**Leaf Chart A — Written Instructions** (12 sts, 12 rows)

| Row | Instructions |
|---|---|
| Row 1 (RS) | k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2 *(12 sts)* |
| Row 2 (WS) | p5, k2, p5 |
| Row 3 (RS) | k2, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k2 *(12 sts)* |
| Row 4 (WS) | p5, k1, p1, k1, p4 |
| Row 5 (RS) | k2, yo, k5, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1 *(12 sts)* |
| Row 6 (WS) | p4, k1, p2, k1, p4 |
| Row 7 (RS) | k1, yo, k3, sk2p, k3, yo, k2 *(12 sts)* |
| Row 8 (WS) | p5, k1, p1, k1, p4 |
| Row 9 (RS) | k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1 *(12 sts)* |
| Row 10 (WS) | p3, k1, p5, k1, p2 |
| Row 11 (RS) | k3, yo, k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k2 *(12 sts — note: this row creates the transition to Leaf Chart B offset)* |
| Row 12 (WS) | p4, k2, p4, k2 |

> **Stitch count check for Leaf Chart A**: Each RS row must return to 12 stitches. The yo increases and the decreases (ssk, k2tog, sk2p) are balanced. sk2p removes 3 sts and replaces with 1 (net −2), but row 7 has 2 yo stitches (net +2), so row 7 is balanced. All other rows have 2 yo and 2 single decreases (net 0). ✅

**Leaf Chart B — Offset Version** (12 sts, 12 rows)
Chart B is Chart A shifted by 6 stitches. Work as Chart A but beginning 6 stitches later within the 12-stitch unit. In written form:

| Row | Instructions |
|---|---|
| Row 1 (RS) | ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2 *(12 sts)* |
| Row 2 (WS) | p5, k2, p5 |
| Row 3 (RS) | k1, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, yo, k2 *(12 sts — note: double decrease brings to 10, 2 yo brings back to 12)* |

> **Correction for Row 3 Chart B**: k1, ssk (−1), k2tog (−1), k1, yo (+1), k3, yo (+1), k3 — but we must count from 12 sts: k1 + ssk (uses 2) + k2tog (uses 2) + k1 + yo + k3 + yo + k2 = 1+2+2+1+1+3+1+2 = 13 stitch positions? Let me rewrite carefully.

*Revised Leaf Chart B Row-by-Row* (all rows verified to use exactly 12 sts and return 12 sts):

| Row | Instructions | Sts used → sts result |
|---|---|---|
| Row 1 (RS) | ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k3 | 12 → 12 |
| Row 2 (WS) | p4, k2, p6 | — |
| Row 3 (RS) | k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k3 | 12 → 12 |
| Row 4 (WS) | p4, k1, p3, k1, p3 | — |
| Row 5 (RS) | ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, k2 | 12 → 12 |
| Row 6 (WS) | p3, k1, p5, k1, p2 | — |
| Row 7 (RS) | k2, yo, k3, yo, sk2p, k3, yo, k1 | wait — this has 3 yo and 1 sk2p = net +3−2 = +1, incorrect |

> **Designer note on Chart B**: Chart B is a true mirror/offset of Chart A and is best understood as the leaf design reflected horizontally. Rather than attempting a complete written row-by-row for Chart B in prose, the following describes it structurally: Chart B places the leaf apex (the sk2p double decrease) at the *opposite* end of the 12-stitch unit from Chart A. Knitters are strongly advised to use a charted version. The written rows below are the verified, balanced version:

**Leaf Chart B — Final Verified Instructions**

| Row | Instructions |
|---|---|
| Row 1 (RS) | k2tog, k1, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, k4 *(12 sts: uses 3+3+1+1+1+1+2 = net: 12−2+2=12)* ✅ |
| Row 2 (WS) | p5, k1, p6 |
| Row 3 (RS) | k1, k2tog, ssk, k1, yo, k3, yo, k3 *(12 sts: 1+1+1+1+1+3+1+3 used=12, net −2+2=12)* ✅ |
| Row 4 (WS) | p4, k1, p3, k1, p3 |
| Row 5 (RS) | k2tog, ssk, yo, k5, yo, k3 *(12 sts: net −2+2=12)* ✅ |
| Row 6 (WS) | p4, k1, p4, k1, p2 |
| Row 7 (RS) | k2, yo, k2, sk2p, k3, yo, k2 *(12 sts: +1 yo, +1 yo, −2 sk2p = net 0)* ✅ |
| Row 8 (WS) | p3, k1, p4, k1, p3 |
| Row 9 (RS) | k1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k1, yo, k4 *(12 sts: −1−1+1+1+1−1+1=net +1... re-count)* |

> **Technical note**: Writing a perfectly balanced travelling leaf purely in prose for a non-centred, offset 12-stitch unit is prone to transcription error in written instructions. The pattern therefore presents **Leaf Chart A** in full as the primary reference, with the following convention for Chart B:

---

### CHART INSTRUCTIONS (for use throughout the pattern)

**Leaf Chart A** is used in all 12-row sections where the section number is **odd** (Sections 3, 5, 7, 9 …).
**Leaf Chart B** is used in all 12-row sections where the section number is **even** (Sections 4, 6, 8, 10 …).

**Leaf Chart A — Full 12-row repeat (verified)**

Worked over a multiple of 12 sts + 0 (exact multiples only; partial repeats at edges are worked in stocking stitch).

- **Row 1 (RS)**: *k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2*; rep from * to * across lace section.
- **Row 2 and all WS rows**: Purl all sts within the lace section.
- **Row 3 (RS)**: *k2, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k2*; rep.
- **Row 5 (RS)**: *k2, [yo, k1] twice, yo, k2, sk2p, k2*; rep.

> **Row 5 count check**: k2 (2) + yo (1) + k1 (1) + yo (1) + k1 (1) + yo (1) + k2 (2) + sk2p (3→1) + k2 (2) — sts used: 14, sts result: 14−2 = 12. Wait: sk2p uses 3 sts and returns 1, so net −2. Total used from 12: 2+1+1+1+1+1+2+3+2 = 14 — that uses 14 stitches from a 12-stitch repeat. This is incorrect.

**Let me present the Leaf Chart A with care and full verification:**

The following is the standard "elongated leaf over 12 sts/12 rows" as used in classic lace knitting. Each RS row uses exactly 12 stitches and returns exactly 12 stitches. WS rows are all purl within the lace section.

```
Leaf Chart A (12 sts × 12 rows)

Row 1  (RS): k3, yo, k1, yo, k3, sk2p, k2
             [3+1+1+1+3+3→1+2 = 14 sts used, but sk2p: 3→1, so returns 14-2=12] ✅

Row 2  (WS): purl all 12 sts

Row 3  (RS): k2, yo, k1, yo, k4, sk2p, k1, k1
             — let me build this systematically.
```

**Definitive Leaf Chart A** — using a leaf motif aligned to a standard 12-stitch lace leaf:

```
Abbreviation reminder: sk2p = sl1, k2tog, psso (3 sts → 1 st, net −2)
                        yo = yarn over (net +1, no stitch consumed)

Row 1  (RS): k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, sk2p
             Sts consumed: 4+0+1+0+4+3 = 12 ✓  Sts returned: 4+1+1+1+4+1 = 12 ✅

Row 2  (WS): p12

Row 3  (RS): k3, yo, k3, yo, k3, sk2p
             Sts consumed: 3+0+3+0+3+3 = 12 ✓  Sts returned: 3+1+3+1+3+1 = 12 ✅

Row 4  (WS): p12

Row 5  (RS): k2, yo, k5, yo, k2, sk2p
             Sts consumed: 2+0+5+0+2+3 = 12 ✓  Sts returned: 2+1+5+1+2+1 = 12 ✅

Row 6  (WS): p12

Row 7  (RS): k1, yo, k7, yo, k1, sk2p
             Sts consumed: 1+0+7+0+1+3 = 12 ✓  Sts returned: 1+1+7+1+1+1 = 12 ✅

Row 8  (WS): p12

Row 9  (RS): yo, k9, yo, sk2p
             Sts consumed: 0+9+0+3 = 12 ✓  Sts returned: 1+9+1+1 = 12 ✅

Row 10 (WS): p12

Row 11 (RS): ssk, k8, k2tog, yo, k1, yo — wait, that's more than 12...
```

> **Pattern Note — Leaf Design Clarification**: The above is a classic "pointed tip" leaf where rows 1–9 build the leaf body using paired yo increases flanking the leaf centre and a double decrease at one tip. For a fully symmetrical leaf with both a top and bottom tip, rows 11–12 begin the return journey. However, for a *travelling* all-over leaf shawl, using a **one-tip leaf** (motif ends at Row 12 and the next repeat begins offset by 6 stitches) is more practical and produces a cleaner diagonal movement.

---

### DEFINITIVE LEAF PATTERN — FINAL VERSION

After careful technical analysis, the following **one-directional leaf panel** is the construction used throughout this shawl. This is a clean, verified, mathematically balanced lace repeat:

---

#### LEAF PANEL (12 stitches, 12 rows — verified)

Each repeat covers 12 stitches. All WS rows are purled across the lace section (knit on WS for garter sections). All RS rows return to exactly 12 stitches per repeat.

```
Row 1  (RS): k4, yo, k1, yo, k4, sk2p
             [4+1+1+1+4+1 = 12] ✅

Row 2  (WS): p12

Row 3  (RS): k3, yo, k1, yo, k5, sk2p
             [3+1+1+1+5+1 = 12] ✅

Row 4  (WS): p12

Row 5  (RS): k2, yo, k1, yo, k6, sk2p
             [2+1+1+1+6+1 = 12] ✅

Row 6  (WS): p12

Row 7  (RS): k1, yo, k1, yo, k7, sk2p
             [1+1+1+1+7+1 = 12] ✅

Row 8  (WS): p12

Row 9  (RS): yo, k1, yo, k8, sk2p
             [1+1+1+8+1 = 12] ✅

Row 10 (WS): p12

Row 11 (RS): k6, yo, k1, yo, k2, sk2p
             [6+1+1+1+2+1 = 12] ✅

Row 12 (WS): p12
```

This motif creates a leaf body forming along the left side of the 12-stitch unit, with the leaf tip (sk2p) travelling diagonally rightward across successive repeats. The **offset version** (Leaf Panel B) starts the same sequence but from st 7 of the 12-stitch unit, continuing to wrap around:

#### LEAF PANEL B (offset by 6 stitches — the "swirl row")

```
Row 1  (RS): yo, k4, sk2p, k4, yo, k1
             — Verify: yo(+1) + k4 + sk2p(3→1) + k4 + yo(+1) + k1 = 1+4+1+4+1+1 = 12 ✅

Row 2  (WS): p12

Row 3  (RS): yo, k5, sk2p, k3, yo, k1
             [1+5+1+3+1+1 = 12] ✅

Row 4  (WS): p12

Row 5  (RS): yo, k6, sk2p, k2, yo, k1
             [1+6+1+2+1+1 = 12] ✅

Row 6  (WS): p12

Row 7  (RS): yo, k7, sk2p, k1, yo, k1
             [1+7+1+1+1+1 = 12] ✅

Row 8  (WS): p12

Row 9  (RS): yo, k8, sk2p, yo, k1
             [1+8+1+1+1 = 12] ✅

Row 10 (WS): p12

Row 11 (RS): k1, yo, k2, sk2p, k6, yo
             [1+1+2+1+6+1 = 12] ✅

Row 12 (WS): p12
```

> **All rows in both Leaf Panel A and Leaf Panel B are now verified to be mathematically balanced at 12 stitches in, 12 stitches out.** ✅

---

## MAIN PATTERN — FULL INSTRUCTIONS

### SETUP

Work the garter tab and setup row as described in Section 1 and 2 above.

After completing all 12 rows of Section 2 (the increase foundation), you have **35 stitches**:
- Left edge: 3 sts
- Left wing: 13 sts
- Spine: 3 sts
- Right wing: 13 sts
- Right edge: 3 sts

**Total: 35 sts** ✅

---

### SECTION 3 — FIRST LACE SECTION (Rows 13–24, using Leaf Panel A)

From Row 13, the wings are wide enough to begin lace. Each wing has 13 stitches. Worked as follows:

**Structure per RS row**:
`k3 (left edge), yo, [Leaf Panel A across 12 sts], yo, SM-A, k3 (spine), SM-A, yo, [Leaf Panel A across 12 sts], yo, k3 (right edge)`

> The two yo increases (one each side of each wing) are *structural increases*, separate from and in addition to any yo within the lace panel. The first row of lace, Row 13, begins with 13 wing stitches; the first yo (structural) is added before the lace begins, so the lace panel gets 12 of the 13 stitches, with 1 stitch remaining as a buffer between the lace and the spine/edge. This 1 stitch becomes 3 stitches after 2 RS rows (adding 1 yo each RS row), allowing the next lace repeat to begin.

**Row-by-row instructions for Rows 13–24**:

**Row 13 (RS)**: K3, yo (structural), k1 (buffer), work Leaf Panel A Row 1 across next 12 sts, SM-A, yo (structural), k3, SM-A, yo (structural), work Leaf Panel A Row 1 across next 12 sts, k1 (buffer), yo (structural), k3.
*(35 sts + 4 structural yo = 39 sts)* ✅

**Row 14 (WS)**: K3, SM-B, p to SM-A, SM-A, k3 (spine), SM-A, p to SM-B, SM-B, k3.

Continue in this manner, working the next row of Leaf Panel A on each RS row and purling the lace sections on each WS row, until all 12 rows of Leaf Panel A have been worked (Rows 13–24).

After Row 24: **35 + (6 × 4) = 59 sts**
- Left edge: 3
- Left wing: 25 sts (1 buffer + 12 lace + 12 new sts added by structural yo over 6 RS rows = 13 new sts; total 13+12=25... 

> **Recount Row 24**: Starting wing sts at Row 13 = 13. Each RS row adds 2 sts to each wing (1 structural yo near spine + 1 structural yo near edge). After 6 RS rows (Rows 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23), each wing has grown by 12 sts: 13 + 12 = 25 sts per wing.
> Total: 3 + 25 + 3 + 25 + 3 = **59 sts** ✅

---

### SECTION 4 — SECOND LACE SECTION (Rows 25–36, using Leaf Panel B)

Each wing now has 25 stitches: enough for **2 full Leaf Panel repeats** (2 × 12 = 24 sts) plus 1 buffer stitch.

**Row 25 (RS)**: K3, yo (structural), k1 (buffer), [work Leaf Panel B Row 1 across 12 sts] twice, SM-A, yo, k3, SM-A, yo, [work Leaf Panel B Row 1 across 12 sts] twice, k1 (buffer), yo, k3.

Continue through all 12 rows of Leaf Panel B.

After Row 36: 59 + (6 × 4) = **83 sts**
- Each wing: 25 + 12 = 37 sts (37 = 3 × 12 + 1 buffer) ✅

---

### SECTION 5 — THIRD LACE SECTION (Rows 37–48, Leaf Panel A)

Each wing has 37 sts: 3 full repeats of 12 + 1 buffer.

**Row 37 (RS)**: K3, yo, k1, [Leaf Panel A across 12 sts] three times, SM-A, yo, k3, SM-A, yo, [Leaf Panel A across 12 sts] three times, k1, yo, k3.

After Row 48: 83 + 24 = **107 sts**
- Each wing: 37 + 12 = 49 sts (49 = 4 × 12 + 1) ✅

---

### SECTION 6 — FOURTH LACE SECTION (Rows 49–60, Leaf Panel B)

Each wing: 49 sts = 4 × 12 + 1.

After Row 60: 107 + 24 = **131 sts**
- Each wing: 61 sts (5 × 12 + 1) ✅

---

### SECTION 7 — FIFTH LACE SECTION (Rows 61–72, Leaf Panel A)

Each wing: 61 sts.

After Row 72: 131 + 24 = **155 sts**
- Each wing: 73 sts (6 × 12 + 1) ✅

---

### SECTION 8 — SIXTH LACE SECTION (Rows 73–84, Leaf Panel B)

Each wing: 73 sts.

After Row 84: 155 + 24 = **179 sts**
- Each wing: 85 sts (7 × 12 + 1) ✅

---

### SECTION 9 — SEVENTH LACE SECTION (Rows 85–96, Leaf Panel A)

Each wing: 85 sts.

After Row 96: 179 + 24 = **203 sts**
- Each wing: 97 sts (8 × 12 + 1) ✅

---

### SECTION 10 — EIGHTH LACE SECTION (Rows 97–108, Leaf Panel B)

Each wing: 97 sts.

After Row 108: 203 + 24 = **227 sts**
- Each wing: 109 sts (9 × 12 + 1) ✅

---

### SECTION 11 — NINTH LACE SECTION (Rows 109–120, Leaf Panel A)

Each wing: 109 sts.

After Row 120: 227 + 24 = **251 sts**
- Each wing: 121 sts (10 × 12 + 1) ✅

---

### SECTION 12 — TENTH LACE SECTION (Rows 121–132, Leaf Panel B)

Each wing: 121 sts.

After Row 132: 251 + 24 = **275 sts**
- Each wing: 133 sts (11 × 12 + 1) ✅

---

### SECTION 13 — ELEVENTH LACE SECTION (Rows 133–144, Leaf Panel A)

Each wing: 133 sts.

After Row 144: 275 + 24 = **299 sts**
- Each wing: 145 sts (12 × 12 + 1) ✅

---

### SECTION 14 — TWELFTH LACE SECTION (Rows 145–156, Leaf Panel B)

Each wing: 145 sts.

After Row 156: 299 + 24 = **323 sts**
- Each wing: 157 sts (13 × 12 + 1) ✅

**Total stitches at end of Row 156: 323 sts** ✅
*(3 + 157 + 3 + 157 + 3 = 323)*

---

### SECTION 15 — BORDER (Rows 157–166)

The border is worked in a simple **yarn-over mesh with garter ridges**, which complements the lace and provides a delicate but stable edge.

**Row 157 (RS)**: *K1, yo, k2tog*; rep from * to end. (323 sts — stitch count maintained as each k2tog replaces 2 sts and yo adds 1: net 0 per 3-stitch group; 323 ÷ 3 = 107 groups + 2 remaining sts, so adjust: work *k1, yo, k2tog* across to last 2 sts, k2tog. 322 sts.)

> **Adjustment**: For a clean border, on the last RS row before the border, work 1 extra k2tog to bring the count to 322 sts (divisible by 3 with remainder 1, allowing *k1, yo, k2tog* × 107 + k1 at end, which = 322 sts). Alternatively, work the border as follows for 323 sts:

**Revised Border:**
- **Row 157 (RS)**: K1, *yo, k2tog*; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. *(323 sts — no change in stitch count as each pair yo/k2tog is neutral, with k1 at start and k2 at end)*
- **Row 158 (WS)**: Purl all sts.
- **Row 159 (RS)**: Knit all sts.
- **Row 160 (WS)**: Knit all sts. *(garter ridge on RS)*
- **Row 161 (RS)**: K1, *yo, k2tog*; rep to last 2 sts, k2.
- **Row 162 (WS)**: Purl all sts.
- **Row 163 (RS)**: Knit all sts.
- **Row 164 (WS)**: Knit all sts.
- **Row 165 (RS)**: K1, *yo, k2tog*; rep to last 2 sts, k2.
- **Row 166 (WS)**: Purl all sts.

**After Row 166: 323 sts** ✅ (no net increases or decreases in border)

---

### CAST-OFF

Switch to 4.5 mm needle (for a looser cast-off, which is essential for lace shawls).

Work a **yarn-over cast-off** as follows:

**YO Cast-Off**: *Yo, k2tog (the yo and the next live stitch), slip resulting stitch back to left needle, rep from * until all stitches are cast off.

This produces an airy, stretchy cast-off that maintains the lace character. Alternatively, use a traditional **suspended cast-off** or **Icelandic cast-off** for maximum stretch.

---

## FINISHING

### Weaving in Ends

Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle. With mohair, split the plies slightly as you weave to lock the end in place — mohair tails can work free over time if not secured. Weave in a figure-of-eight through the fabric rather than in a straight line.

### Blocking

Blocking mohair lace is transformative. The finished shawl before blocking will look crumpled and small. After blocking, it opens to the full 160 cm wingspan.

**Method:**
1. Fill a basin with lukewarm water and a small amount of wool wash.
2. Submerge the shawl gently and allow to soak for 15–20 minutes. Do not agitate.
3. Lift the shawl out carefully — it is fragile when wet. Support the full weight.
4. Press (do not wring) gently between two clean towels to remove excess water.
5. Lay out on blocking mats and begin pinning from the centre top (the garter tab) outward.
6. Pin the spine point first, then pin the two upper corners, then the lower point.
7. Begin filling in the points of the lace along the cast-off edge, pinning each yarn-over "tooth" to a consistent depth of approximately 1.5 cm.
8. Along the upper edge, pin to straighten and stretch to the full 160 cm.
9. Along each wing edge, pin to create the characteristic swirl curve: the right wing should arc gently downward; the left wing should arc gently upward.
10. Allow to dry completely in a warm, ventilated space (24–48 hours for mohair).
11. Remove pins only when the shawl is completely dry.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
                    ←————— 160 cm wingspan ——————→
                    ________________________
          LEFT TOP /                        \ RIGHT TOP
         CORNER   /   SPINE (offset left)    \  CORNER
                 /                            \
                /    ← travelling leaf swirl   \
               /                                \
              /    Leaf Panel A alternates        \
             /     with Leaf Panel B every         \
            /      12 rows, offsetting the          \
           /       leaf motif by 6 stitches          \
          /                                           \
         /___________________________________________/
                          ↑
                      ~70 cm depth
                    (centre/lower point)
```

---

## STITCH COUNT SUMMARY TABLE

| After Section | Row | Sts per wing | Total sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| Setup | 12 | 13 | 35 |
| Section 3 | 24 | 25 | 59 |
| Section 4 | 36 | 37 | 83 |
| Section 5 | 48 | 49 | 107 |
| Section 6 | 60 | 61 | 131 |
| Section 7 | 72 | 73 | 155 |
| Section 8 | 84 | 85 | 179 |
| Section 9 | 96 | 97 | 203 |
| Section 10 | 108 | 109 | 227 |
| Section 11 | 120 | 121 | 251 |
| Section 12 | 132 | 133 | 275 |
| Section 13 | 144 | 145 | 299 |
| Section 14 | 156 | 157 | 323 |
| Cast-off | 166 | 157 | 323 |

> **Total row count**: 166 rows (83 RS rows, 83 WS rows). ✅

---

## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

1. **Use a lifeline**: Every 12 rows, thread a length of smooth cotton or dental floss through the live stitches. If you make an error, you can rip back to the lifeline instead of trying to unknit mohair.

2. **Mark your place on the chart**: Use a magnetic board or sticky notes to track which row of the Leaf Panel you are on. It is easy to lose your place in mohair.

3. **Count stitches frequently**: After every RS row, count the stitches in each wing. They should always follow the formula: (wing sts from previous RS row) + 2.

4. **Lighting matters**: Work near a bright light. Natural daylight is best. The halo of mohair makes it genuinely difficult to distinguish stitches in dim conditions.

5. **Tension consistency**: The open lace gauge of mohair on 5 mm needles can vary considerably. Try to knit at a consistent pace and avoid knitting when tired or tense (as one tends to pull the yarn tighter).

6. **Don't skip the swatch**: Seriously. One full pattern repeat (at least 24 sts × 24 rows), washed and blocked, before beginning the shawl proper. The difference between pre- and post-blocking mohair is dramatic, and your tension *will* affect the final dimensions significantly.

---

## YARN SUBSTITUTION NOTES

This pattern is designed for 2-ply kid mohair with a silk or nylon content (for strength). Suitable alternatives:
- Drops Kid-Silk
- BC Garn Silkbloom
- Lace Mohair by Kremke Soul Wool
- Any 2-ply or fine laceweight mohair at approximately 200–230 m per 25 g

Do **not** substitute with a non-mohair yarn without re-swatching thoroughly; the halo of mohair disguises the structure of the lace in a characteristic way that other fibres do not replicate.

---

*Pattern designed for advanced lace knitters. Recommended for those comfortable with yarn-over lace, double decreases, and reading charts. Not recommended as a first lace project.*

*© Sídhe Swirl Shawl — for personal use only.*

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