purlJam

# The Belladonna Sweater

A relaxed, cosy crew-neck pullover worked in warm worsted-weight yarn. Made flat in four simple pieces and seamed — a perfect confidence-building project for an advancing beginner. Worked in UK crochet terminology.

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## Skill Level
**Beginner** — uses only chain, UK double crochet (dc) and UK treble (tr), with simple shaping.

> **UK/US note:** This pattern uses **UK terms**. UK dc = US single crochet; UK tr = US double crochet.

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## Sizes

| Size | To fit bust | Finished bust (approx. ease) |
|------|-------------|------------------------------|
| S    | 86–91 cm (34–36") | 91 cm (36") |
| M    | 96–101 cm (38–40") | 101 cm (40") |
| L    | 106–112 cm (42–44") | 112 cm (44") |
| XL   | 117–122 cm (46–48") | 122 cm (48") |
| 2XL  | 127–132 cm (50–52") | 132 cm (52") |

Sizes are written as: **S (M, L, XL, 2XL)**. Where only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

### Key finished measurements

| Measurement | S | M | L | XL | 2XL |
|-------------|---|---|---|----|-----|
| Half-bust width (each piece) | 45.5 cm | 50.5 cm | 56 cm | 61 cm | 66 cm |
| Body length to underarm | 35 cm | 35 cm | 36 cm | 36 cm | 37 cm |
| Armhole depth | 22 cm | 22 cm | 23 cm | 24 cm | 24 cm |
| Total length | 57 cm | 57 cm | 59 cm | 60 cm | 61 cm |
| Sleeve length to underarm | 44 cm | 44 cm | 45 cm | 45 cm | 46 cm |

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted-weight (Aran/medium #4) yarn in your favourite colour.
  - Approx. metres needed: **950 (1050, 1200, 1350, 1500) m**
- **Hook:** 5.5 mm crochet hook (main fabric) and 5.0 mm hook (ribbing, for a firmer edge) — or sizes needed to obtain tension.
- Tapestry/yarn needle for seaming
- Stitch markers
- Scissors and tape measure

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## Tension (Gauge)

**14 tr × 8 rows = 10 cm** square in treble fabric using 5.5 mm hook.

**Always work a tension swatch.** Chain 20, work 6 rows of tr, measure the centre 10 cm. If you have too many stitches, go up a hook size; too few, go down. Correct tension is essential for a good fit.

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## Abbreviations (UK)

- **ch** – chain
- **dc** – double crochet (UK)
- **tr** – treble (UK)
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **BLO** – back loops only
- **tr2tog** – treble two together (decrease)
- **sl st** – slip stitch
- **RS / WS** – right side / wrong side
- **rep** – repeat

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## Construction Notes

The sweater is worked **flat in four pieces** from the bottom up: **Back, Front,** and **two Sleeves**. Each piece begins with single-crochet (dc) ribbing worked sideways in back loops only for stretch, then continues in treble fabric. Pieces are seamed at the shoulders and sides, sleeves set in, and a neckband worked in the round to finish.

The **turning chain at the start of each tr row counts as 1 tr** throughout. Work your first tr into the 2nd stitch and your last tr into the top of the previous row's turning chain.

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## BACK

### Ribbing
The ribbing is worked sideways: you crochet a short strip and the rows become the vertical "ribs."

With **5.0 mm hook**, ch **10**.

**Row 1:** dc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch to end. (9 dc)
**Row 2:** ch 1, turn, dc in **BLO** of each st to end. (9 dc)

Rep Row 2 until you have **64 (71, 78, 85, 92) ribbing rows** total. Do not fasten off.

> *Each ribbing row = 1 stitch when picked up along the long edge → gives the required base stitch count.*

### Set-up row (pick up for body)
Rotate the ribbing to work along the long edge. Switch to **5.5 mm hook**.

**Row 1 (RS):** ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), work 1 tr into the end of each ribbing row across. (64 (71, 78, 85, 92) sts)

> ✅ **Maths check:** 64 sts ÷ 14 sts per 10 cm = 45.7 cm half-width → 91 cm full bust for S. ✓

### Body
**Next rows:** ch 3 (counts as tr), turn, 1 tr in each st to end.
Rep until the body measures **35 (35, 36, 36, 37) cm** from the top of the ribbing.

> *At 8 rows per 10 cm, that is approx. 28 (28, 29, 29, 30) rows.*

### Armhole shaping
**Row 1 (RS):** sl st across first **4 (4, 5, 5, 6)** sts, ch 3 (counts as tr), tr to last **4 (4, 5, 5, 6)** sts, turn — leave remaining sts unworked.
Sts now: **56 (63, 68, 75, 80)**.

**Row 2:** ch 3, turn, tr2tog, tr to last 3 sts, tr2tog, 1 tr in last st. (decrease 2 sts)
**Row 3:** ch 3, turn, tr to end.
Rep Rows 2–3 **once more**. (decrease 2 sts again)

Sts now: **52 (59, 64, 71, 76)**.

Continue straight in tr until armhole measures **22 (22, 23, 24, 24) cm**.

### Shoulder & back neck shaping
With armhole at full depth:

**Row 1 (RS):** ch 3, tr across first **15 (18, 20, 22, 24)** sts; turn — this is the first shoulder.
**Row 2:** sl st across first 4 sts, ch 3, tr to end.
**Row 3:** ch 3, tr to last 4 sts, turn (leave unworked). Fasten off. **Right shoulder complete.**

With RS facing, skip the centre **22 (23, 24, 27, 28)** sts for the back neck. Rejoin yarn to the next st.

**Row 1 (RS):** ch 3, tr across remaining **15 (18, 20, 22, 24)** sts; turn.
**Row 2:** ch 3, tr to last 4 sts, turn (leave unworked).
**Row 3:** sl st across first 4 sts, ch 3, tr to end. Fasten off. **Left shoulder complete.**

> ✅ **Maths check (S):** 15 + 22 + 15 = 52 sts = full back width after armhole. ✓

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## FRONT

Work exactly as for the **Back** through the **armhole shaping**, until the armhole measures **16 (16, 17, 18, 18) cm** — i.e. about **6 cm shorter** than the back armhole. You will have **52 (59, 64, 71, 76)** sts.

### Front neck shaping
Divide for the neck.

**Row 1 (RS):** ch 3, tr across first **18 (21, 23, 25, 27)** sts; turn — left front.
**Row 2:** ch 3, turn, tr to last 3 sts, tr2tog, 1 tr in last st. (1 st dec at neck edge)
**Row 3:** ch 3, turn, tr2tog, tr to end. (1 st dec at neck edge)
Rep Rows 2–3 once more. (2 more sts dec)

Sts now: **14 (17, 19, 21, 23)**.

Continue straight until front armhole matches back armhole depth **22 (22, 23, 24, 24) cm**, ending at the armhole edge.

**Shoulder shaping:**
**Next row (armhole edge):** sl st across first 4 sts, ch 3, tr to end.
**Next row:** ch 3, tr to last 4 sts, turn (leave unworked). Fasten off.

For the **right front**, with RS facing, skip the centre **16 (17, 18, 21, 22)** sts, rejoin yarn to the next st, and work **18 (21, 23, 25, 27)** sts. Mirror the shaping (decrease at neck edge on each side as above, then shoulder shaping at the armhole edge).

> ✅ **Maths check (S):** 18 + 16 + 18 = 52 sts before neck shaping = full front width. ✓ Shoulders 14 sts each match back shoulders. ✓

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## SLEEVES (make 2)

### Ribbing
With **5.0 mm hook**, ch **10**.

**Row 1:** dc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch to end. (9 dc)
**Row 2:** ch 1, turn, dc in BLO to end. (9 dc)
Rep Row 2 until you have **32 (32, 34, 36, 38) ribbing rows**. Do not fasten off.

### Set-up
Rotate to work along the long edge. Switch to **5.5 mm hook**.
**Row 1 (RS):** ch 3 (counts as tr), 1 tr into the end of each ribbing row. **32 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts**.

### Sleeve increases
**Inc row:** ch 3, turn, 1 tr in first st, tr to last st, 2 tr in last st. (2 sts increased)

Work the inc row **every 4th row** until you have **48 (50, 54, 58, 62) sts**.
Then continue straight in tr until the sleeve measures **44 (44, 45, 45, 46) cm** from the top of the ribbing.

### Sleeve cap
**Row 1 (RS):** sl st across first **4 (4, 5, 5, 6)** sts, ch 3, tr to last **4 (4, 5, 5, 6)** sts, turn (leave unworked).
**Decrease row:** ch 3, turn, tr2tog, tr to last 3 sts, tr2tog, 1 tr in last st. (2 sts dec)
Rep the decrease row **every row** until **14 (14, 16, 16, 18) sts** remain.
Fasten off.

> ✅ **Maths check (S):** cap base after slip sts = 48 − 8 = 40 sts, decreasing to 14 sts for a smooth, easeable cap. ✓

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## FINISHING

1. **Block** all pieces gently to the measurements above. This evens out the trebles and makes seaming far easier.
2. **Shoulder seams:** With WS together, whip stitch or sl st the front shoulders to the back shoulders.
3. **Set in sleeves:** Find the centre top of each sleeve cap and pin to the shoulder seam. Pin the sleeve edges into the armhole, easing gently. Seam.
4. **Side & underarm seams:** Starting at the cuff ribbing, seam down the sleeve underarm and continue down the body side seam in one line. Repeat on the other side.

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## NECKBAND

With **5.0 mm hook** and RS facing, join yarn at the right shoulder seam.

**Round 1:** ch 1, work dc evenly around the neckline — approx. **66 (68, 70, 76, 80)** sts, keeping an even count and a multiple workable for ribbing. Join with sl st to first dc.
**Round 2:** ch 1, dc in BLO of each st around. Join with sl st.
Rep Round 2 **once more** (3 rounds total) for a neat crew neckline.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.

> **For a turtleneck variation:** continue Round 2 in BLO until the neckband measures 16–18 cm, then fold over.

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## Final Quality Notes

- The **front armhole is worked 6 cm shorter** than the back before neck shaping — this is correct and creates the lower front neckline of a crew neck.
- Always count stitches after each shaping row.
- Weave in ends along seams for invisibility.

Enjoy your cosy new **Belladonna Sweater**! 🌿