The Contiguous Cotton Cardigan

A relaxed, hip-length V-neck cardigan in DK cotton, worked top-down in one piece. Shoulders and sleeves are formed with the contiguous method: two small saddle sections sit at the neck, the body is increased first, then the increase line turns the corner to grow the sleeves. The 1×1 rib neckband and button bands are cast on with the garment and worked simultaneously to the hem — there is no picking up of bands at the end.

Designed for advanced knitters who are comfortable managing several shaping instructions at once.

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X)

To fit bust: 76 (81, 86, 91, 97, 107, 117) cm [30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 42, 46) in]

Finished bust, buttoned (1 band overlapped): 85.5 (91, 96.5, 102, 112, 122, 132) cm [33¾ (35¾, 38, 40¼, 44, 48, 52) in]

Intended ease: approximately 8–10 cm [3¼–4 in] of positive ease. Cotton does not stretch like wool — choose the size whose finished bust matches the chest measurement you want to wear, not a size you would “grow into”.

Where only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Work the numbers for your size throughout.

Finished measurements

Larger sizes have a slightly dropped contiguous shoulder; this is intentional and keeps the sleeve cap shallow enough to sit well.

Materials

Yarn: DK-weight cotton (or cotton blend), approximately 210 m / 100 g.

Metres: 1050 (1150, 1250, 1400, 1600, 1800, 2000) m
Grams: 500 (550, 600, 670, 770, 860, 960) g

Allow extra if lengthening the body. Suggested yarns: Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK, Rico Creative Cotton DK, Debbie Bliss Cotton DK, or any firmly plied cotton DK that meets tension.

Needles

• 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) circular needle, 80–100 cm, for the body
• 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) circular needle, 40 cm, and/or double-pointed needles, for the sleeves (or use magic loop)
• 3.5 mm (UK 9 / US 4) circular needle, 80–100 cm, for the neckband, hem and cuffs

Notions

• 6 stitch markers (2 distinctive for the band edges, 4 for the saddles/sleeves)
• Waste yarn or stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• Row counter (strongly recommended)
• 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8) buttons, 15 mm diameter
• Removable markers for planning buttonhole placement

Tension (gauge)

22 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles, after wet blocking.

Work a tension square at least 15 cm, wet-block it, and measure in the centre. Cotton relaxes: do not skip blocking the swatch. If you have too many stitches to 10 cm, go up a needle size; too few, go down.

Row tension matters for yoke depth and V-neck length. If your row tension differs, work the yoke to the stated centimetre depths rather than only to the row counts.

Abbreviations (UK)

BO — cast off (bind off)
cm — centimetre(s)
cont — continue
dec — decrease(s)/decreasing
inc — increase(s)/increasing
k — knit
k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning dec)
LH — left-hand
m — metre(s)
M1L — make 1 left: lift the strand between sts from front to back, k through the back loop
M1R — make 1 right: lift the strand between sts from back to front, k through the front loop
M1P — make 1 purlwise: lift the strand between sts from back to front, p through the front loop
mm — millimetre(s)
p — purl
pm — place marker
rem — remain(ing)
rep — repeat
RH — right-hand
rnd(s) — round(s)
RS — right side
sm — slip marker
ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning dec)
st(s) — stitch(es)
st st — stocking stitch (RS k, WS p)
w&t — wrap and turn
WS — wrong side
yo — yarn over

Pattern notes

Construction. The cardigan is worked flat from the top down. Sleeves are joined in the round after dividing.

Contiguous method, three phases.

• Phase 1 — saddles/shoulders: increases are made only on the body side of each 4-st saddle. The back and fronts widen; the sleeve sections stay at 4 sts.
• Phase 2 — turn the corner: increases are made on both sides of each saddle. Body and sleeves grow together.
• Phase 3 — sleeves only: body width is complete at the saddles. Sleeves are increased every row until the upper-arm stitch count is reached.

Integrated bands. The first and last 8 sts of every row are 1×1 rib. They begin as the neckband and become the button bands. They are never increased. V-neck increases are worked immediately inside the bands.

AT THE SAME TIME. V-neck shaping runs through all three yoke phases (and onto the body if any increases remain). Read the whole Yoke section before casting on and use a row counter.

Buttonholes are worked on the Right Front band (beginning of RS rows) as you go — women’s placement.

Cotton. No elasticity and little memory. Wet-block to the schematic, do not over-stretch the width, and expect a little length-growth with wear. Seamlessly integrated bands stop the stocking-stitch fronts from curling.

Markers. After the neckband you will have:
Right Band (8) · MB · Right Front · M1 · Right Sleeve · M2 · Back · M3 · Left Sleeve · M4 · Left Front · MB · Left Band (8).

Instructions

Neckband

With 3.5 mm circular needle and using a long-tail (or tubular) cast-on, cast on 60 (62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72) sts.

Rib row (RS): [k1, p1] to end.
Rib row (WS): [k1, p1] to end.

These two rows set 1×1 rib. Rep them once more. 4 rows of rib completed; approximately 1 cm. Stitch count unchanged: 60 (62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72) ✓

Change to 4 mm circular needle.

Set-up row (RS): Rib 8, pm (MB), k1 (Right Front), pm (M1), k4 (Right Sleeve/saddle), pm (M2), k34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) (Back), pm (M3), k4 (Left Sleeve/saddle), pm (M4), k1 (Left Front), pm (MB), rib 8.
8 + 1 + 4 + 34 (36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46) + 4 + 1 + 8 = 60 (62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72) ✓

Set-up row (WS): Rib 8, sm, p to last 8 sts slipping markers, rib 8.

Back-neck short rows

Worked over the Back only, to lift the back neck. Stitch count does not change.

Short row 1 (RS): Rib 8, sm, k1, sm, k4, sm, k to 2 sts before M3, w&t.
Short row 2 (WS): P to 2 sts before M2, w&t.
Short row 3 (RS): K to 2 sts past the previous wrap, hiding the wrap by knitting it together with the wrapped st, w&t.
Short row 4 (WS): P to 2 sts past the previous wrap, hiding the wrap, w&t.

Rep Short rows 3–4 twice more. 4 wrap pairs each side. Centre back has 8 extra rows (approximately 2.5 cm of extra height) ✓

Next row (RS): Work in pattern to end, hiding any remaining wraps.
Next row (WS): Rib 8, p to last 8 sts, rib 8.

Yoke

The 8 band sts at each end are always worked in established 1×1 rib. All other sts are stocking stitch unless stated.

V-neck (AT THE SAME TIME as Phases 1–3)

Beginning with the first RS row of Phase 1, shape the V-neck:

Increase 1 st at each neck edge (immediately inside the 8-st bands) every RS row 10 (11, 8, 9, 7, 5, 5) times, then every other RS row 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 18) times.

Total V-neck increases each front: 20 (21, 20, 21, 21, 21, 23). ✓

V-neck increase row (RS): Rib 8, sm, M1L, work in pattern as given for the current Phase to last 8 sts, M1R, sm, rib 8.

When a row is both a V-neck row and a contiguous-increase row, work both sets of increases.

If any V-neck increases remain after dividing for the body, continue them on the body in the same way until they are complete. After they finish, the front edges run parallel to the hem (standard V-neck cardigan).

Phase 1 — shoulders (body increases only)

Sleeve sections stay at 4 sts. 4 increases every RS row: +1 Right Front, +2 Back, +1 Left Front.

Row 1 (RS): Rib 8, sm, (M1L if this is a V-neck row), k to M1, M1R, sm, k4, sm, M1L, k to M3, M1R, sm, k4, sm, M1L, k to MB, (M1R if this is a V-neck row), sm, rib 8.
+4 contiguous sts this row ✓

Row 2 (WS): Rib 8, sm, p to last 8 sts slipping markers, sm, rib 8.

Rep Rows 1–2 a further 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15) times.

Phase 1 = 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) RS increase rows.
Contiguous sts added: 10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16) × 4 = 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64). ✓
Sts excluding V-neck incs: 60 (62, 64, 66, 68, 70, 72) + 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64) = 100 (106, 112, 118, 124, 130, 136). ✓

Section counts excluding V-neck incs:
Bands 8 / 8; Fronts 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17) each; Sleeves 4 / 4; Back 54 (58, 62, 66, 70, 74, 78).
8+11+4+54+4+11+8 = 100, and equivalently for other sizes ✓

Phase 2 — turn the corner (body and sleeves)

8 increases every RS row: +1 each Front, +2 each Sleeve, +2 Back.

Row 1 (RS): Rib 8, sm, (M1L if V-neck row), k to M1, M1R, sm, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before M2, M1R, k1, sm, M1L, k to M3, M1R, sm, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before M4, M1R, k1, sm, M1L, k to MB, (M1R if V-neck row), sm, rib 8.
+8 contiguous sts this row ✓

Row 2 (WS): Rib 8, sm, p to last 8 sts slipping markers, sm, rib 8.

Rep Rows 1–2 a further 12 (13, 14, 15, 18, 21, 24) times.

Phase 2 = 13 (14, 15, 16, 19, 22, 25) RS increase rows.
Contiguous sts added: 13 (14, 15, 16, 19, 22, 25) × 8 = 104 (112, 120, 128, 152, 176, 200). ✓
Sts excluding V-neck incs: 100 (106, 112, 118, 124, 130, 136) + 104 (112, 120, 128, 152, 176, 200) = 204 (218, 232, 246, 276, 306, 336). ✓

Section counts excluding V-neck incs:
Bands 8 / 8; Fronts 24 (26, 28, 30, 34, 38, 42) each; Sleeves 30 (32, 34, 36, 42, 48, 54) each; Back 80 (86, 92, 98, 108, 118, 128).
8+24+30+80+30+24+8 = 204, and equivalently for other sizes ✓
Back is now at underarm width. Body increases at the saddles stop. ✓

Phase 3 — sleeves only (every row)

Body sections are worked even at the saddles (V-neck incs continue if any remain). Each sleeve increases 2 sts every row.

Row 1 (RS): Rib 8, sm, (M1L if V-neck row), k to M1, sm, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before M2, M1R, k1, sm, k to M3, sm, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before M4, M1R, k1, sm, k to MB, (M1R if V-neck row), sm, rib 8.
+4 sleeve sts this row ✓

Row 2 (WS): Rib 8, sm, p to M1, sm, p1, M1P, p to 1 st before M2, M1P, p1, sm, p to M3, sm, p1, M1P, p to 1 st before M4, M1P, p1, sm, p to MB, sm, rib 8.
+4 sleeve sts this row ✓

Rep Rows 1–2 until 13 (14, 14, 15, 16, 16, 18) Phase 3 rows have been worked, ending after a RS row for sizes XS and L, or after a WS row for all other sizes.

Sleeve sts added: 13 (14, 14, 15, 16, 16, 18) × 4 = 52 (56, 56, 60, 64, 64, 72). ✓
Each sleeve: 30 (32, 34, 36, 42, 48, 54) + 26 (28, 28, 30, 32, 32, 36) = 56 (60, 62, 66, 74, 80, 90). ✓
Sts excluding V-neck incs: 204 (218, 232, 246, 276, 306, 336) + 52 (56, 56, 60, 64, 64, 72) = 256 (274, 288, 306, 340, 370, 408). ✓

Next row (WS), sizes XS and L only: Rib 8, p to last 8 sts, rib 8.
All sizes now end with a WS row completed. ✓

Divide body and sleeves

Dividing row (RS): Rib 8, sm, work Right Front (including M1L if a V-neck row) to M1, remove M1, place the next 56 (60, 62, 66, 74, 80, 90) sleeve sts on waste yarn, remove M2, cast on 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12) underarm sts, pm (this is the new Right side marker if you wish), k across Back to M3, remove M3, place the next 56 (60, 62, 66, 74, 80, 90) sleeve sts on waste yarn, remove M4, cast on 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12) underarm sts, work Left Front to MB (including M1R if a V-neck row), sm, rib 8.

Body sts after divide, once all V-neck incs are complete:
8 + 44 (47, 48, 51, 55, 59, 65) + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12) + 80 (86, 92, 98, 108, 118, 128) + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12) + 44 (47, 48, 51, 55, 59, 65) + 8
= 196 (208, 220, 232, 254, 276, 298). ✓

(If some V-neck increases are still outstanding, your count will be 2 sts lower for each remaining pair; they will be added on the body.)

Check, size XS with all V-incs done: 8 + 44 + 6 + 80 + 6 + 44 + 8 = 196 ✓
Worn circumference in sts (one band overlapped): 196 − 8 = 188; 188 sts ÷ 2.2 = 85.5 cm ✓

Next row (WS): Rib 8, p to last 8 sts (including underarm cast-on sts), rib 8.

Body

Keep the 8-st rib bands as set. Work the remaining sts in stocking stitch.

Continue any remaining V-neck increases. Once they are complete, work both fronts even at the neck edge.

Buttonholes (AT THE SAME TIME). On the Right Front band (the first 8 sts of every RS row), work 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8) buttonholes.

Placement: Using removable markers, plan the buttonholes before you work the body. Place the first buttonhole approximately 2 cm below the last V-neck increase (at the base of the V) and the last 1.5 cm before the final cast-off. Space the remainder evenly between them.

Buttonhole (RS), over the 8 band sts: k1, p1, k1, yo, k2tog, p1, k1, p1.
Work the rest of the row as set. On the following WS row, work the yo in rib (purl it, to keep 1×1).

Cont until the body measures 33 (33, 33, 34, 34, 35, 35) cm from the underarm cast-on, ending with a WS row. Include any length added by remaining V-neck rows in this measurement.

Hem

Change to 3.5 mm circular needle.

Rib row: [k1, p1] to end.

This row continues the band rib across the whole width. 196 (208, 220, 232, 254, 276, 298) is even, so 1×1 rib closes evenly ✓

Cont in 1×1 rib until the hem measures 5 cm, ending with a WS row. Total length from underarm: 38 (38, 38, 39, 39, 40, 40) cm ✓

Cast off in rib.

Sleeves

Work both alike.

Return the 56 (60, 62, 66, 74, 80, 90) held sleeve sts to 4 mm needle(s). With RS facing, rejoin yarn at the centre of the underarm. Pick up and knit 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12) sts along the underarm cast-on, knit the sleeve sts, pick up and knit 1 extra st in each corner if a gap appears (these extra sts will be decreased on the next rnd). Pm for beginning of rnd and join to work in the round.

Next rnd: Knit, decreasing any extra corner sts with k2tog so the rnd total is 62 (66, 70, 74, 84, 92, 102) sts.
56 (60, 62, 66, 74, 80, 90) + 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 12, 12) = 62 (66, 70, 74, 84, 92, 102) ✓
Upper arm: 62 (66, 70, 74, 84, 92, 102) sts ÷ 2.2 = 28 (30, 32, 33.5, 38, 42, 46.5) cm ✓

Knit 8 rnds even.

Dec rnd: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased ✓

Work Dec rnd every 12th (10th, 9th, 8th, 6th, 6th, 5th) rnd a further 8 (10, 11, 13, 17, 19, 23) times. 9 (11, 12, 14, 18, 20, 24) dec rnds in total; 18 (22, 24, 28, 36, 40, 48) sts decreased ✓

62 (66, 70, 74, 84, 92, 102) − 18 (22, 24, 28, 36, 40, 48) = 44 (44, 46, 46, 48, 52, 54) sts ✓

Cont even until the sleeve measures 39 (40, 40, 41, 41, 42, 42) cm from the underarm.

Cuff

Change to 3.5 mm needles.

Work 1×1 rib ([k1, p1] around) for 5 cm. 44 (44, 46, 46, 48, 52, 54) is even ✓

Cast off in rib.

Sleeve length from underarm: 44 (45, 45, 46, 46, 47, 47) cm ✓

Finishing

1. Weave in ends, closing any small underarm gaps with the tail.
2. Wet-block the cardigan to the finished measurements. Pin the bands straight (they should not flare), pin the V so both fronts are mirror images, and do not stretch the bust wider than the schematic — cotton will not spring back.
3. Allow to dry completely.
4. Sew buttons to the Left Front band, opposite the buttonholes, centred on the band.
5. Optional: steam the button bands lightly so they lie flat.

Schematic notes (for blocking)

• Bust (buttoned): 85.5 (91, 96.5, 102, 112, 122, 132) cm
• Yoke depth: 20 (21.5, 22.5, 24.5, 27.5, 30, 33.5) cm from back-neck cast-on to underarm (plus approximately 2.5 cm extra height at centre back from short rows)
• V-neck depth: 20 (21, 21.5, 22, 23.5, 25, 27.5) cm along the angled front edge
• Body from underarm to cast-off: 38 (38, 38, 39, 39, 40, 40) cm
• Total back length: 58 (59.5, 60.5, 63.5, 66.5, 70, 73.5) cm
• Band width: 3.5 cm
• Upper arm / sleeve / cuff: as in the measurements table

Designer tips

• Mark every V-neck increase with a tally; it is the instruction most often missed.
• If your row tension is tighter than 30 rows/10 cm, the yoke will be short — add even rows at the end of Phase 3 (sleeves only, no extra increases) until the centimetre yoke depth is reached, then divide.
• If you prefer a deeper V, work the “every other RS row” neck increases less often (every 3rd RS row) and accept a slightly narrower overlap at the top of the parallel section, or add extra V-increases and a little extra width to each front.
• For a cleaner band edge, keep the first and last stitch firm; do not work them loosely.
• Cotton shows stitch irregularities: keep M1L / M1R consistent so the contiguous lines stay sharp.