The Everyday Crochet Tee

A beginner-friendly short-sleeve T-shirt in worsted weight

A relaxed, everyday T-shirt worked in half double crochet. The body is a simple tube; front and back are split at the underarms and shaped with an easy crew neck. Shoulders are seamed, then short sleeves are picked up and worked down. If you can chain, hdc, and decrease, you can make this.

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust: 28–30 (32–34, 36–38, 40–42, 44–46, 48–50)" / 71–76 (81–86, 91–97, 102–107, 112–117, 122–127) cm

Finished bust: 34¼ (37¾, 42¼, 45¾, 50¼, 53¾)" / 87 (96, 107, 116, 128, 136.5) cm

Finished length (shoulder to hem): 23 (24, 25, 26, 27¼, 28)" / 58.5 (61, 63.5, 66, 69, 71) cm

Armhole depth: 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9, 9½)" / 18 (19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24) cm

Short-sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 5 (5, 5½, 5½, 6, 6)" / 12.5 (12.5, 14, 14, 15, 15) cm

Shoulder width: 4 (4½, 5½, 6, 6¾, 7½)" / 10 (11.5, 14, 15, 17, 19) cm

Shown as a relaxed T-shirt with about 4–6" (10–15 cm) of positive ease. Choose the size whose finished bust is 4–6" (10–15 cm) larger than your actual bust.

Instructions are written for XS with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4), preferably cotton or a cotton blend for breathability and drape.

• 700 (850, 1000, 1150, 1350, 1550) yd / 640 (775, 915, 1050, 1235, 1415) m

Hook: US I-9 / 5.5 mm, or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions:

• 4 stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Gauge

14 hdc and 11 rows = 4" (10 cm) in half double crochet, after light blocking.

Work a swatch at least 6" (15 cm) square. Measure the center 4" (10 cm). If you have too few stitches, go down a hook size; if you have too many, go up a hook size. Gauge controls both fit and yardage — swatch.

Abbreviations (US crochet)

• ch — chain
• hdc — half double crochet
• hdc2tog — half double crochet 2 stitches together (see Special Stitch)
• pm — place marker
• rep — repeat
• rnd(s) — round(s)
• RS — right side
• sc — single crochet
• sk — skip
• sl st — slip stitch
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• WS — wrong side

Special Stitch

hdc2tog: Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 5 loops. Counts as 1 hdc.

Pattern Notes

• US crochet terminology throughout.
• The body is worked in joined, turned rounds so the fabric matches the flat yoke. After each round: sl st to the first hdc to join, ch 1, turn.
• Ch 1 at the start of a row or round does not count as a stitch. Work the first hdc in the first stitch.
• Work into the back bump of the foundation chain for a neater hem.
• When joining the foundation chain, make sure it is not twisted.
• Cotton fabric can grow with wear. Block your swatch the same way you will block the garment (wet block, lay flat).
• Length is easy to customize: add or subtract even rounds before the underarm split. Add sleeve rounds for a longer sleeve.

Pattern

Body

Ch 120 (132, 148, 160, 176, 188). Taking care not to twist, sl st in the first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in the back bump of each ch around, sl st to first hdc to join, ch 1, turn. — 120 (132, 148, 160, 176, 188) hdc

Rnd 2: Hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc, ch 1, turn.

Rep Rnd 2 until the piece measures 16 (16½, 17, 17½, 18¼, 18½)" / 40.5 (42, 43, 44.5, 46.5, 47) cm from the foundation chain, ending ready to work a RS round.

You will have approximately 44 (45, 47, 49, 50, 51) rounds. Exact round count can vary slightly with your row gauge; measure, do not only count.

Place underarm markers (RS facing): Starting at the join, pm as follows:

• Marker A after 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84) sts (Front)
• Marker B after the next 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts (Right underarm)
• Marker C after the next 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84) sts (Back)
• Remaining 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts are the Left underarm (back to the join)

Check: 54 + 6 + 54 + 6 = 120 ✓
(60+6+60+6=132 ✓; 66+8+66+8=148 ✓; 72+8+72+8=160 ✓; 78+10+78+10=176 ✓; 84+10+84+10=188 ✓)

Front

With RS facing, join yarn in the first Front st (the st immediately after the Left underarm, at Marker A’s section start / the join). You will now work flat on the Front stitches only.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each of the 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84) Front sts, turn. Leave the underarm and Back sts unworked.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have worked 11 (13, 13, 14, 15, 16) rows from the split, ending with a WS row.

Shape front neck

The Front is now divided. Each side of the neck is worked separately.

Right front (beginning-of-row side)

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in first 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts, hdc2tog, turn — leaving the remaining Front sts unworked. — 15 (17, 20, 22, 25, 27) sts
(XS check: 14 hdc + hdc2tog uses 16 sts, 54 − 16 = 38 left unworked ✓)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end, turn. — 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts

Rows 3–8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10): Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn. — 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts

(2 decrease rows + 6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8) even rows = 8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10) neck rows ✓
11+8=19, 13+8=21, 13+9=22, 14+9=23, 15+10=25, 16+10=26 armhole rows ✓)

Fasten off.

Left front (other side)

With RS facing, sk the next 22 (24, 24, 26, 26, 28) sts of the Front (center neck). Join yarn in the next st.

(XS check: 38 unworked − 22 skipped = 16 sts for this shoulder ✓
16 + 22 + 16 = 54 ✓)

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to end, turn. — 15 (17, 20, 22, 25, 27) sts

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, hdc in each st to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, turn. — 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts

Rows 3–8 (8, 9, 9, 10, 10): Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn. — 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts

Fasten off.

Back

With RS facing, join yarn in the first Back st (the st immediately after the Right underarm / Marker B).

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each of the 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84) Back sts, turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in each st across, turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have worked 16 (18, 19, 19, 21, 22) rows from the split, ending with a WS row.

Shape back neck

Right back

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in first 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts, turn — leaving the remaining Back sts unworked. — 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts

Work 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) more rows even in hdc on these sts. — 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) total back-neck rows
(16+3=19, 18+3=21, 19+3=22, 19+4=23, 21+4=25, 22+4=26 armhole rows ✓)

Fasten off.

Left back

With RS facing, sk the next 26 (28, 28, 30, 30, 32) sts of the Back (center neck). Join yarn in the next st.

(XS check: 14 + 26 + 14 = 54 ✓
S: 16+28+16=60 ✓; M: 19+28+19=66 ✓; L: 21+30+21=72 ✓; XL: 24+30+24=78 ✓; 2XL: 26+32+26=84 ✓)

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, hdc in each of the remaining 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts, turn.

Work 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) more rows even in hdc. Fasten off.

Front and back shoulders are both 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts and are ready to seam ✓

Shoulder seams

Turn the piece inside out (WS facing out). Align Front and Back at one shoulder, matching the 14 (16, 19, 21, 24, 26) sts.

With a tapestry needle, mattress-stitch (or whip-stitch) the shoulder seam.

Rep for the second shoulder.

Turn RS out.

Neck edging

With RS facing, join yarn at a shoulder seam.

Ch 1, work sc evenly around the entire neck opening: 1 sc in each st across the front and back neck, and 1 sc in each row-end along the vertical neck edges.

Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

Do not decrease on this round — the hdc fabric already has enough stretch to go over the head, and a single sc round just neatens the edge.

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same.

With RS facing, join yarn at the center of the underarm skipped sts.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, hdc in each of the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) underarm sts, then work 19 (21, 22, 23, 25, 26) hdc evenly along the Front armhole row-ends, then 19 (21, 22, 23, 25, 26) hdc evenly along the Back armhole row-ends. Join with sl st to first hdc, ch 1, turn.

— 44 (48, 52, 54, 60, 62) hdc
(6+19+19=44 ✓; 6+21+21=48 ✓; 8+22+22=52 ✓; 8+23+23=54 ✓; 10+25+25=60 ✓; 10+26+26=62 ✓)

Tip for even pickup: There is one row-end per armhole row. Work 1 hdc in each row-end. If a round number of extra stitches is needed to hit the total, place them near the underarm, not at the shoulder.

Rnd 2: Hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc, ch 1, turn.

Rep Rnd 2 until you have 12 (12, 13, 13, 14, 14) hdc rounds from the pickup.

Next 2 rnds: Sc in each st around, joining with sl st at the end of each rnd (do not turn for these two rounds). Fasten off.

Sleeve length from pickup is about 5 (5, 5½, 5½, 6, 6)" / 12.5 (12.5, 14, 14, 15, 15) cm ✓

Rep for the second sleeve.

Hem edging (optional)

With RS facing, join yarn at the side of the foundation chain. Ch 1, sc in each foundation ch around, join with sl st. Fasten off.

This firms the hem slightly so it sits like a T-shirt edge.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends on the WS.
2. Wet block: Soak in lukewarm water, press out water in a towel (do not wring), and lay flat to the finished measurements. Smooth the neck, shoulders, and sleeve openings so they lie flat. Let dry completely.
3. Try on. If the body is short, you cannot add length after the fact — that is why measuring before the underarm split matters. Sleeves can be lengthened by adding hdc rounds before the sc cuff.

Schematic (finished measurements)

Customizing

• Longer body: Work extra even rounds before placing the underarm markers.
• Cropped: Stop the body 2–4" / 5–10 cm shorter before the split.
• Longer sleeves: Work extra hdc rounds before the 2 sc cuff rounds.
• Stripes: Change color at the start of any RS round; weave ends as you go.

Beginner tips

• Count stitches at the end of every round for the first 5 rounds, then every few rounds after that. A missed stitch will throw off the underarm split.
• Use a stitch marker in the first hdc of every round so the join is obvious after you turn.
• hdc2tog is just “two stitches become one.” Practice it on your swatch before the neck.
• When picking up sleeve stitches along row-ends, insert the hook under two strands of the row-end so the opening does not stretch into holes.