Tiny Beginnings Layette

Preemie / 5 lb Full Set — Cardigan, Jumpsuit, Hat, Booties & Mittens

Skill level: Beginner
Construction: Hand knit. Top-down raglan cardigan and jumpsuit; brim-up hat; flat-and-seamed booties and mittens.

A matching five-piece set sized for a baby of about 5 lb (2.3 kg) and 16" (40.5 cm) long. Everything uses the same simple stitches — garter, stockinette, and 1×1 rib — so a new knitter can complete the whole layette. The cardigan and jumpsuit are seamless at the shoulders (no itchy seams). The jumpsuit has a 3-button back-neck placket for dressing and snap inseams for diaper changes.

Safety and care: Use soft, machine-washable yarn. Sew every button on with extra passes and a tiny reinforcing stitch on the wrong side. Do not add ties, ribbons, or cords. Snaps must be the sew-on or plastic-cap type rated for baby garments.

Size

One size: Preemie / 5 lb (to fit chest about 13" / 33 cm; height about 16" / 40.5 cm)

Finished measurements

Positive ease is built in for a diapered, growing baby. The hat is slightly smaller than head size so it stays on.

Yarn

Worsted weight (Category 4), soft and machine washable — superwash wool, cotton, or acrylic blend.

700 yards (640 m) total for the set, in one color or with a contrast for ribbing/bands.

Approximate breakdown:

• Cardigan: 180 yd (165 m)
• Jumpsuit: 280 yd (255 m)
• Hat: 60 yd (55 m)
• Booties: 50 yd (46 m)
• Mittens: 40 yd (37 m)
• Plus a little extra for swatch and seaming

A typical 100 g worsted skein is about 180–220 yd (165–200 m). Buy 3–4 skeins.

Suggested yarns: Cascade 220 Superwash, Berroco Vintage, Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling, Knit Picks Brava Worsted, or any soft Category 4 baby-safe yarn that matches gauge.

Needles

• US 7 (4.5 mm) 24" (60 cm) circular needle for cardigan and jumpsuit bodies
• US 7 (4.5 mm) double-pointed needles (DPNs), or a long circular for magic loop, for sleeves and hat
• US 6 (4 mm) 24" circular and DPNs for ribbing and cuffs
• Spare US 7 needle or stitch holders

If you prefer not to knit small tubes in the round, sleeves, hat crown, booties, and mittens may all be worked flat and seamed; notes are included.

Notions

• 8 stitch markers (4 distinct for raglan lines)
• Tapestry needle
• 7 buttons, ½" (12 mm) diameter — 4 for the cardigan, 3 for the jumpsuit back
• 6 baby-safe sew-on snaps (size 14 / 8 mm) for the jumpsuit inseams — or 6 extra ½" buttons
• Sewing needle and matching thread for buttons and snaps
• Row counter (helpful, not required)

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 7 (4.5 mm), after blocking.

That is 5 stitches per inch and 7 rows per inch.

Please swatch. A 5 lb garment is small; 1 extra stitch per inch will make the chest about 3" too tight. Adjust needle size until you match this gauge.

Abbreviations (US)

• BO — bind off
• CO — cast on
• k — knit
• kfb — knit into front and back of the same stitch (1 stitch increased)
• k2tog — knit 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased)
• p — purl
• pm — place marker
• rep — repeat
• rnd(s) — round(s)
• RS — right side
• sm — slip marker
• st(s) — stitch(es)
• St st — stockinette stitch (knit RS, purl WS; knit every round in the round)
• WS — wrong side
• yo — yarn over

Stitch patterns

Garter stitch (flat): Knit every row.
Garter stitch (in the round): Knit 1 round, purl 1 round.
Stockinette stitch (flat): Knit RS rows, purl WS rows.
1×1 rib (flat or in the round): *K1, p1; rep from * to end. (Even stitch counts: end with p1.)

Beginner increase — kfb

Knit the next stitch but do not slide it off the left needle. Knit into the back loop of the same stitch, then slide it off. You have made 2 stitches from 1.

Beginner buttonhole

On a RS row, at the buttonhole position: yo, k2tog. On the next row, work the yo as a normal stitch. This makes a small, firm hole that suits ½" baby buttons.

Notes for a successful set

1. The cardigan is worked flat the whole time (except the sleeves, which are optional in the round).
2. The jumpsuit yoke is worked flat for the back placket, then joined and worked in the round to the crotch. Legs are worked flat with garter snap bands — no tiny tubes required.
3. Keep button bands 5 sts (cardigan) and plackets 4 sts (jumpsuit) in garter stitch every row so they lie flat.
4. Slip markers as you meet them unless the instruction says otherwise.
5. When a number is checked in the text, it looks like this: (44 + 80 = 124 sts ✓).
6. Weave in ends as you go on small pieces; it is easier than hunting them later.
7. Block each piece lightly with a steam iron held above the fabric, or wet-block and dry flat. Do not stretch ribbing.

1. Raglan Cardigan

Worked top down, flat, with a 5-stitch garter button band on each front. Sleeves are joined in the round (or worked flat and seamed).

Neck

With US 6 (4 mm) and using a long-tail cast-on, CO 44 sts.

Knit 4 rows (garter collar). The piece measures about ½" (1.5 cm).

Switch to US 7 (4.5 mm).

Set up the raglan

Row 1 (RS): K5 (button band), k4 (right front), pm, k6 (right sleeve), pm, k6 (you are in the back; continue), k8 (back is 14 sts total), pm, k6 (left sleeve), pm, k4 (left front), k5 (button band).

Check: 5 + 4 + 6 + 14 + 6 + 4 + 5 = 44 sts ✓.

Row 2 (WS): K5, purl to last 5 sts slipping markers, k5.

Yoke (raglan increases)

You will increase 8 stitches every RS row by working kfb on each side of each of the 4 markers.

Increase Row (RS): K5, *k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, kfb; rep from * 3 more times, k to last 5 sts, k5.
(8 sts increased)

WS Row: K5, purl to last 5 sts slipping markers, k5.

Work the last 2 rows 9 more times — 10 Increase Rows total.

Count after 10 Increase Rows: 10 × 8 = 80 sts increased.
44 + 80 = 124 sts ✓.

Stitch map at 124:

• Right front including band: 5 + 4 + 10 = 19 sts
• Right sleeve: 6 + 20 = 26 sts
• Back: 14 + 20 = 34 sts
• Left sleeve: 26 sts
• Left front including band: 19 sts
  19 + 26 + 34 + 26 + 19 = 124 ✓

Next 4 rows: Work even in pattern (k5 at each edge every row; St st in between; no increases).
Yoke now measures about 3½" (9 cm) from the cast-on — 24 rows ÷ 7 rows per inch = 3.4" ✓.

Buttonholes (right front band, RS rows): Work the first buttonhole on the first Increase Row, in the 5-st band: k2, yo, k2tog, k1, then continue the Increase Row. Work 3 more buttonholes about every 2¼" (16 rows) so the last one sits about ½" above the hem. You will have 4 buttonholes.

Divide body and sleeves

Next row (RS): K19 (right front), place next 26 sts on a holder (right sleeve), CO 4 sts for the underarm, k34 (back), place next 26 sts on a holder (left sleeve), CO 4 sts, k19 (left front).

Body on the needle: 19 + 4 + 34 + 4 + 19 = 80 sts ✓.
80 sts ÷ 5 sts per inch = 16" flat; about 15½" with bands overlapped ✓.

Body

Work even in pattern (5-st garter bands, St st between) until the cardigan measures 7½" (19 cm) from the cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

Switch to US 6 (4 mm). Knit 8 rows (garter hem, about 1").
Total length 7½" + 1" = 8½" (21.5 cm) ✓.

BO knitwise on the RS. Cut yarn.

Sleeves (make 2)

Place 26 held sleeve sts on US 7 DPNs (or a circular for magic loop). Starting at the center of the underarm, pick up and knit 2 sts, knit the 26 sleeve sts, pick up and knit 2 sts along the remaining underarm. 30 sts ✓.

Place a marker for the beginning of the round. Join to work in the round.

Knit 4 rnds even.

Decrease rnd: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Work decrease rnd every 6th round 4 more times (5 decrease rnds total).
30 − 10 = 20 sts ✓.

Knit even until the sleeve measures 4¼" (11 cm) from the underarm.

Switch to US 6. Work 1×1 rib for 1¼" (3 cm).
Total sleeve 4¼" + 1¼" = 5½" (14 cm) ✓.

BO loosely in rib.

Flat-sleeve option: Work the 30 sts back and forth in St st, with the 2 decreases at each end of RS decrease rows, then rib the cuff and seam the sleeve with mattress stitch.

2. Raglan Jumpsuit

Worked top down. The back neck is left open as a 4-st garter placket (3 buttons) so the jumpsuit slips on easily. After the yoke you join in the round, work the body, then split for legs. Each leg is knit flat with garter bands; snaps close the inseams for diaper changes.

Neck and back placket

With US 6 (4 mm), CO 52 sts.

Knit 4 rows (garter collar).

Switch to US 7 (4.5 mm).

Set up the raglan (worked flat)

Row 1 (RS): K4 (right back placket), k7 (right back), pm, k6 (right sleeve), pm, k18 (front), pm, k6 (left sleeve), pm, k7 (left back), k4 (left back placket).

Check: 4 + 7 + 6 + 18 + 6 + 7 + 4 = 52 sts ✓.

Row 2 (WS): K4, purl to last 4 sts slipping markers, k4.

Yoke

Increase Row (RS): K4, *k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, kfb; rep from * 3 more times, k to last 4 sts, k4.
(8 sts increased)

WS Row: K4, purl to last 4 sts, k4.

Work the last 2 rows 9 more times — 10 Increase Rows total.
10 × 8 = 80. 52 + 80 = 132 sts ✓.

Stitch map at 132:

• Right placket 4, right back 7 + 10 = 17, right sleeve 26, front 18 + 20 = 38, left sleeve 26, left back 17, left placket 4
  4 + 17 + 26 + 38 + 26 + 17 + 4 = 132 ✓

Next 4 rows: Work even in pattern (4-st garter plackets, St st between).

Placket buttonholes (left back placket as worn — the placket you will overlap on top): On RS rows, work k1, yo, k2tog, k1 in that 4-st band. Place 3 buttonholes: on yoke row 4, row 12, and row 20 (about 1" / 2.5 cm apart).

Yoke measures about 3½" (9 cm).

Join to work in the round

Next row (RS): Work across, then overlap the left placket (4 sts) over the right placket (4 sts) and knit each pair together. Place a marker for the beginning of the round at the overlap (center back).

132 − 4 = 128 sts ✓.

You now have: back 17 + 4 (overlapped placket) + 17 = 38, front 38, sleeves 26 + 26.

Divide body and sleeves

Next rnd: K21 (17 left-back sts + 4 overlapped placket sts), place next 26 sts on a holder (sleeve), CO 4 underarm, k38 (front), place next 26 sts on a holder (sleeve), CO 4 underarm, k17 (remaining back).

Body: 21 + 4 + 38 + 4 + 17 = 84 sts ✓.
84 ÷ 5 = 16.8" (16¾") chest — extra room for a diaper ✓.

Body

Work in St st in the round until the jumpsuit measures 8½" (21.5 cm) from the cast-on edge (shoulder to crotch).

Divide for legs

The 84 body sts split into two 42-st legs. Each leg is worked flat so the inseam can snap open.

Next rnd: K42, place remaining 42 sts on a holder for the right leg. Turn. You will work the left leg on these 42 sts.

Left leg

You are working flat. Keep the first 4 and last 4 sts in garter stitch (knit them every row) for snap bands. Work the center 34 sts in St st.

Row 1 (WS): K4, p34, k4.
Row 2 (RS): Knit.

Continue until the leg measures 2" (5 cm) from the divide, ending with a WS row.

Decrease row (RS): K4, k2tog, k to last 6 sts, k2tog, k4. (2 sts decreased)

Work a decrease row every 6th row 4 more times (5 decrease rows).
42 − 10 = 32 sts ✓.

Work even until the inseam measures 4" (10 cm) from the divide, ending with a WS row.

Switch to US 6. Knit 8 rows (garter cuff, about 1").
Total inseam 4" + 1" = 5" (12.5 cm) ✓.

BO knitwise. Cut yarn, leaving a 12" tail.

Right leg

Return 42 held sts to US 7. With RS facing, rejoin yarn at the inseam edge. Work exactly as for the left leg (4-st garter bands, same decreases, same cuff).

Snap (or button) placement: On each inseam, sew 3 snaps evenly between crotch and cuff, or work 3 yo-k2tog buttonholes on the front-facing band of each leg and sew buttons on the back-facing band. Overlap the bands 4 sts (about ¾") when closed. Closed thigh is about 38 sts = 7½" — enough for a diaper ✓.

Jumpsuit sleeves (make 2)

Work exactly as for the cardigan sleeves: 26 held sts + 2 + 2 picked-up underarm sts = 30 sts, decrease to 20 sts, 4¼" stockinette + 1¼" rib = 5½".

3. Hat

Worked in the round from the brim up. 16" circular or DPNs.

With US 6, CO 60 sts. Join, being careful not to twist; pm for beginning of rnd.
60 ÷ 5 = 12" circumference ✓.

Work 1×1 rib for 1½" (4 cm).

Switch to US 7. Knit every rnd in St st until the hat measures 4" (10 cm) from the cast-on.

Crown

Change to DPNs when the circle gets tight.

• Rnd 1: *K8, k2tog; rep from * around. (54 sts) 60 − 6 = 54 ✓
• Rnd 2: Knit.
• Rnd 3: *K7, k2tog; rep from * around. (48 sts)
• Rnd 4: Knit.
• Rnd 5: *K6, k2tog; rep from * around. (42 sts)
• Rnd 6: Knit.
• Rnd 7: *K5, k2tog; rep from * around. (36 sts)
• Rnd 8: *K4, k2tog; rep from * around. (30 sts)
• Rnd 9: *K3, k2tog; rep from * around. (24 sts)
• Rnd 10: *K2, k2tog; rep from * around. (18 sts)
• Rnd 11: *K1, k2tog; rep from * around. (12 sts)
• Rnd 12: *K2tog; rep from * around. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving an 8" tail. Thread through the remaining 6 sts, pull closed, and fasten on the inside.

Total height about 5" (12.5 cm) ✓.

Flat option: Work 60 sts back and forth in rib then St st, run the same crown decreases on RS rows (purl WS rows), and mattress-stitch the back seam.

4. Booties (make 2)

Worked flat from the cuff down, with a simple instep flap. One back seam.

With US 6, CO 24 sts.

Cuff: Work 1×1 rib for 12 rows (about 1¾" / 4.5 cm). This cuff folds down if you like.

Switch to US 7.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.

Instep flap

Row 3 (RS): K16, turn. (8 sts left unworked)
Row 4: P8, turn. (the other 8 sts are also waiting)

Working on the center 8 sts only, work 8 more rows in St st (10 instep rows total, about 1½"). End with a WS row.

Pick up for the foot

Next row (RS): K8 instep sts, pick up and knit 6 sts down the left side of the flap, k8 waiting sts, pick up and knit 6 sts up the right side of the flap, k8 remaining sts.

8 + 6 + 8 + 6 + 8 = 36 sts ✓.

Foot

Beginning with a WS row, work 8 rows St st even (about 1").

Toe

Row 1 (RS): *K4, k2tog; rep from * around. (30 sts) 36 − 6 = 30 ✓
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: *K3, k2tog; rep from * to end. (24 sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end. (18 sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: *K1, k2tog; rep from * to end. (12 sts)
Row 8: *K2tog; rep from * to end. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a 14" tail. Thread through the remaining 6 sts and pull closed. Use the rest of the tail to mattress-stitch the sole and the back of the cuff, with RS facing you (the seam sits inside when worn). Fasten off.

Sole length: instep 1½" + foot 1" + toe ¾" ≈ 3¼" (8.5 cm) ✓.

5. Mittens (make 2)

Thumbless — the most practical mitten for a 5 lb baby, and the easiest to knit. Worked flat and seamed.

With US 6, CO 22 sts.

Work 1×1 rib for 2" (5 cm) — a long cuff that stays on without ties.

Switch to US 7.

Work 10 rows St st, beginning with a knit row (about 1½").

Top shaping

Row 1 (RS): *K2, k2tog; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
22 sts → 6 decreases on the full repeats: K2, k2tog five times = 20 sts, then last k2 = 17 sts. For even, cleaner math, use this instead:

Use this decrease sequence (replace the line above):

• Row 1 (RS): K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. (20 sts) 22 − 2 = 20 ✓
• Row 2: Purl.
• Row 3: K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. (18 sts)
• Row 4: Purl.
• Row 5: K2, k2tog, k to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. (16 sts)
• Row 6: Purl.
• Row 7: *K2tog; rep from * to end. (8 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a 12" tail. Thread through the remaining 8 sts, pull closed, and use the tail to mattress-stitch the side seam from top to cuff. Weave in the cuff tail.

Length: 2" cuff + 1½" palm + ¾" shaping ≈ 4" (10 cm) ✓.
Palm: 22 sts ÷ 5 = 4.4" (about 4½") ✓.

Finishing (all pieces)

1. Weave in ends on the wrong side. Tug gently so stitches settle, then trim.
2. Block each piece to the measurements in the table. Pin the cardigan and jumpsuit flat; do not stretch the rib cuffs. Let dry fully.
3. Cardigan buttons: Sew 4 buttons on the left front band opposite the buttonholes. Use a double thread and wrap the shank twice so the band can sit without puckering. Reinforce on the WS with a tiny extra stitch.
4. Jumpsuit buttons: Sew 3 buttons on the under placket (right back) opposite the buttonholes. Overlap is 4 sts.
5. Jumpsuit snaps: Close each leg inseam with 3 snaps, starting about ½" below the crotch. Caps on the outside, sockets on the inside, so nothing presses into the baby’s skin. If you prefer buttons, sew them on the back-facing inseam band.
6. Seams: Booties and mittens — mattress stitch with a half-stitch seam so the join is almost invisible. Sleeves if worked flat — mattress stitch from cuff to underarm, then stitch the underarm cast-on closed.
7. Final check: Stretch every button and snap. If anything wiggles, sew it again. There should be no long tails inside where little fingers can catch them.

How the set should fit

• Cardigan sits at the hip, with room to layer over the jumpsuit. Sleeves reach the wrist with the cuff unfolded.
• Jumpsuit has a slightly roomy body for a diaper. Unsnap both inseams to change; the back-neck placket opens the head opening to about 10" so it slides on without fuss.
• Hat should be snug but not tight; the rib brim can be folded up.
• Booties hug the ankle; fold the cuff down for a shorter look.
• Mittens stay on by the long rib. If they still slip, a single tiny stitch that tacks the cuff to the sleeve (not to the baby) is safer than a tie.

Yarn care

Follow the ball band. Most superwash and acrylic blends: machine wash cold, gentle cycle, lay flat to dry. Cotton may grow slightly after washing — keep that in mind if your gauge was already loose.

Pattern math at a glance (gauge 5 sts / inch)
Cardigan CO 44 + 80 inc = 124 yoke; body 80 sts (16" flat).
Jumpsuit CO 52 + 80 inc = 132 yoke; join 128; body 84 sts (16¾").
Hat 60 sts (12"). Bootie foot 36 sts. Mitten 22 sts.
Yoke depth 24 rows ≈ 3½". All lengths use 7 rows = 1".