purlJam

<pattern>

# TOP-DOWN RAGLAN PULLOVER
**Pattern Number**: RG-PULL-001  
**Difficulty Level**: Intermediate  
**Sizing**: Medium (38-40" chest)

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
- **Chest circumference**: 40" (with 2" positive ease for 38" body)
- **Body length**: 23" from shoulder to hem
- **Sleeve length**: 18" from underarm to cuff
- **Yoke depth**: 8" from neck to underarm

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Worsted to bulky weight yarn  
- **Yardage needed**: Approximately 850-950 yards total  
- **Note on yarn specification**: The provided "150g/90yd" suggests approximately **10 skeins** of this yarn will be needed (900 yards total). Please verify your yarn yardage and purchase sufficient quantity.
- **Yarn weight category**: 4 (worsted) to 5 (bulky)
- **Sample shown in**: [Your yarn name here]

**Needles**:
- US 9 (5.5 mm) 16" circular needle (for neckband and sleeves)
- US 9 (5.5 mm) 24" or 32" circular needle (for yoke and body)
- US 7 (4.5 mm) 16" circular needle (for ribbing)
- Or sizes needed to obtain gauge

**Notions**:
- 4 stitch markers (1 unique for beginning of round)
- 2 stitch holders or waste yarn
- Tapestry needle

**Gauge**: 14 sts & 20 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch on larger needles
- **Critical**: Gauge must be exact for proper fit. Take time to swatch!

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## GAUGE SWATCH
Cast on 24 sts with larger needles. Work in stockinette stitch (knit all rows if working flat, or knit all rounds if working circular) for 5". Bind off. Block swatch. Measure 4" square in center of swatch - should contain exactly 14 sts and 20 rows.

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## PATTERN NOTES
- This sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down in the round.
- Raglan increases are worked every other round to create diagonal shaping lines from neck to underarm.
- The yoke is worked in one piece, then sleeves are separated from body.
- Body and sleeves are worked separately in the round to desired length.

**Abbreviations**:
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- m = marker
- PM = place marker
- SM = slip marker
- M1L = make 1 left (lift strand between sts from front to back, knit through back loop)
- M1R = make 1 right (lift strand between sts from back to front, knit through front loop)
- k2tog = knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### NECKBAND
With smaller 16" circular needle, cast on 64 sts using long-tail method.  
**[Math check: 64 sts ÷ 14 sts per 4" × 4 = 18.3" neck circumference - appropriate for crew neck]**

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. PM for beginning of round (use unique marker).

**Ribbing**: *K2, p2; repeat from * around for 1.5" (8 rounds).

### YOKE SETUP
Switch to larger 16" circular needle.

**Setup Round** (establish raglan lines):
- K10 (right front), PM, k12 (right sleeve), PM, k20 (back), PM, k12 (left sleeve), PM, k10 (left front)
- **[Stitch check: 10 + 12 + 20 + 12 + 10 = 64 sts ✓]**
- Beginning of round marker is at left front raglan line

### RAGLAN INCREASES
**Increase Round**: *K to 1 st before m, M1R, k1, SM, k1, M1L; repeat from * 3 more times, k to end.  
**[Increases: 8 sts per increase round]**

**Plain Round**: Knit all sts, slipping markers.

Repeat these 2 rounds (Increase Round, then Plain Round) **17 times total**.

**[Math verification:
- Starting sts: 64
- Increases: 17 rounds × 8 sts = 136 sts added
- Total after increases: 64 + 136 = 200 sts ✓
- Distribution: 
  - Right front: 10 + 34 = 44 sts
  - Right sleeve: 12 + 34 = 46 sts
  - Back: 20 + 34 = 54 sts
  - Left sleeve: 12 + 34 = 46 sts
  - Left front: 10 + 34 = 44 sts
  - Total: 44 + 46 + 54 + 46 + 44 = 234 sts... RECALCULATING]**

**[CORRECTION - Better distribution:
Let me recalculate with proper raglan increase placement:
- After 17 increase rounds: Each section gains 17 sts on each side of markers
- Front total: 10 + 17 = 27, then 27 + 17 = 44 sts total front
- Each sleeve: 12 + 17 + 17 = 46 sts each
- Back: 20 + 17 + 17 = 54 sts
- Wait, this adds 17 to each SIDE of each marker...

PROPER CALCULATION:
- 4 markers = 4 raglan lines
- Each line gets M1R before and M1L after = 2 sts per marker
- 4 markers × 2 sts = 8 sts per increase round ✓
- 17 increase rounds = 136 sts added
- Start: 64 sts
- End: 200 sts total

Distribution after 17 increase rounds:
- Right front: 10 + 17 = 27 sts
- Right sleeve: 12 + 34 = 46 sts (gets increases from both front and back raglan lines)
- Back: 20 + 17 = 37 sts  
- Left sleeve: 12 + 34 = 46 sts
- Left front: 10 + 17 = 27 sts
- CHECK: 27 + 46 + 37 + 46 + 27 = 183... 

Let me recalculate properly:
Each SECTION gains sts from the raglan lines on either side:
- Right front: gains 17 on right side: 10 + 17 = 27
- Right sleeve: gains 17 from front raglan + 17 from back raglan = 12 + 34 = 46
- Back: gains 17 on right + 17 on left = 20 + 34 = 54
- Left sleeve: gains 17 from back + 17 from front = 12 + 34 = 46
- Left front: gains 17 on left side = 10 + 17 = 27
- TOTAL: 27 + 46 + 54 + 46 + 27 = 200 sts ✓]**

After completing 17 increase rounds, you should have 200 sts total:
- Front: 54 sts (27 right front + 27 left front)
- Back: 54 sts
- Each sleeve: 46 sts

Yoke measures approximately 8" from cast-on edge.

Switch to longer circular needle when stitches no longer fit comfortably on 16" needle.

### SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES
**Next Round** (separation round):
- K27 (right front), remove marker
- Place next 46 sts on holder (right sleeve), remove marker
- Using backward loop method, cast on 6 sts (right underarm)
- K54 (back), remove marker
- Place next 46 sts on holder (left sleeve), remove marker
- Cast on 6 sts (left underarm)
- K27 (left front), SM for new beginning of round at left side "seam"

**[Body stitch check: 27 + 6 + 54 + 6 + 27 = 120 sts for body
- Circumference: 120 sts ÷ 3.5 sts/inch = 34.3"... This is too small!

RECALCULATION needed:
Target: 40" × 3.5 sts/inch = 140 sts for body
Current front + back: 54 + 54 = 108 sts
Need underarm sts: 140 - 108 = 32 sts total, or 16 sts each underarm

Let me recalculate the yoke increases:
Need more increase rounds.

NEW CALCULATION:
- Target body sts: 140 sts (40" × 3.5 sts/inch)
- Need front + back: ~110 sts, plus underarm: 30 sts = 140 sts
- Starting front + back: 10 + 10 + 20 = 40 sts
- Need to add to front + back: 70 sts
- Each increase round adds 4 sts to body (2 to front, 2 to back)
- Need: 70 ÷ 4 = 17.5, round to 18 increase rounds

After 18 increase rounds:
- Front: 10 + 10 + 36 = 56 sts
- Back: 20 + 36 = 56 sts
- Each sleeve: 12 + 36 = 48 sts
- Total: 56 + 48 + 56 + 48 = 208 sts]**

**CORRECTED INSTRUCTION:**

Repeat Increase Round and Plain Round **18 times total** (not 17).

After 18 increase rounds, you will have 208 sts:
- Front sections combined: 56 sts
- Back: 56 sts  
- Each sleeve: 48 sts

### SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES (CORRECTED)
**Next Round** (separation round):
- K28 (right front)
- Place next 48 sts on holder or waste yarn (right sleeve)
- Cast on 14 sts for underarm using backward loop method
- K56 (back)
- Place next 48 sts on holder or waste yarn (left sleeve)
- Cast on 14 sts for underarm
- K28 (left front)
- PM for new beginning of round at left underarm

**[Body stitch check: 28 + 14 + 56 + 14 + 28 = 140 sts ✓
- Circumference: 140 sts ÷ 3.5 sts/inch = 40" ✓]**

### BODY
Continue working in the round in stockinette stitch (knit every round) until body measures 13.5" from underarm, or 1.5" less than desired finished length.

**[140 sts × 13.5" body length at 5 rows/inch = 67.5 rounds, approximately 68 rounds]**

### BODY RIBBING
Switch to smaller circular needle.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 1.5" (8 rounds).

Bind off loosely in pattern.

### SLEEVES (make 2)
Transfer 48 held sleeve sts to larger 16" circular needle (or DPNs if preferred).

**Setup**: 
- Beginning at center of underarm, pick up and knit 7 sts from underarm cast-on
- K48 sleeve sts
- Pick up and knit 7 sts from remaining underarm cast-on
- PM for beginning of round at center underarm

**[Sleeve stitch check: 7 + 48 + 7 = 62 sts]**

Work 6 rounds in stockinette stitch (knit every round).

**Decrease Round**: K1, ssk, k to last 3 sts