purlJam

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# TOP-DOWN RAGLAN PULLOVER — MEN'S MEDIUM
### Adapted for Worsted Weight Yarn

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> **Designer's Note:** This pattern has been fully recalculated for worsted weight yarn to achieve a men's medium fit (38–40" chest) with approximately 2" of positive ease, giving a chest circumference of approximately 42". All stitch counts are new — do not use stitch counts from the original DK pattern.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Size |
|---|---|
| Chest Circumference | 42" (106.5 cm) |
| Body Length (underarm to hem) | 16" (40.5 cm) |
| Yoke Depth | ~9.5" (24 cm) |
| Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff) | 19" (48 cm) |
| Sleeve Circumference (at underarm) | ~16.5" (42 cm) |
| Neck Opening Circumference | ~16" (40.5 cm) |

> **Sizing Note:** This pattern is written for Men's Medium only (38–40" chest, ~2" positive ease). If you need a different size, gauge and construction notes are included to guide adjustments.

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYCA #4), approximately 1,400–1,600 yards (1,280–1,465 m)
  - *Sample shown in a smooth, plied wool or wool-blend for best stitch definition*
- **Needles:**
  - US 9 / 5.5 mm — 32" or longer circular needle (for yoke and body)
  - US 9 / 5.5 mm — set of double-pointed needles or second circular/magic loop (for sleeves)
  - US 7 / 4.5 mm — 16" or 32" circular needle (for neckband ribbing)
  - US 7 / 4.5 mm — DPNs or magic loop (for cuff ribbing)
- **Notions:**
  - 4 stitch markers (use locking markers or distinct colors if possible)
  - 2 stitch holders or waste yarn (for sleeve stitches)
  - Tapestry needle
  - Measuring tape

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## GAUGE

**18 sts × 24 rounds = 4" (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch in the round, on US 9 / 5.5 mm needles, after blocking.

> ⚠️ **Gauge is critical.** This pattern is mathematically designed around 4.5 sts per inch and 6 rounds per inch. Please swatch in the round, not flat. Wash and block your swatch before measuring. Even half a stitch per inch difference will change your finished chest measurement by several inches.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| k2tog | knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| M1L | make 1 left: lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop |
| M1R | make 1 right: lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| RS | right side |
| WS | wrong side |
| RM | raglan marker |
| BOR | beginning of round marker |
| CO | cast on |
| BO | bind off |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |

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## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

This sweater is worked **seamlessly from the top down**:
1. Cast on neckline stitches
2. Work a short ribbed neckband
3. Place raglan markers and work increases every other round to shape the yoke
4. Separate sleeve stitches onto holders, cast on underarm stitches
5. Work body in the round to desired length, finishing with ribbed hem
6. Return to sleeve stitches, work sleeves in the round with regular decreases, finishing with ribbed cuffs

**Raglan Line Placement:**
The 4 raglan markers divide stitches into 4 sections:
- **Back**
- **Left Sleeve**
- **Front**
- **Right Sleeve**

Increases are worked as: `M1L, sm, M1R` at each of the 4 raglan markers on every RS (increase) round, adding 8 stitches per increase round.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### SECTION 1: NECKBAND

Using US 7 / 4.5 mm circular needle (16"), **CO 72 sts** using long-tail cast-on or your preferred stretchy cast-on.

> 📐 **Stitch check:** 72 sts ÷ 4.5 sts/inch = 16" neck circumference ✅

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR marker.

**Neckband Ribbing:**
Work k2, p2 rib for 1" (approximately 6 rounds).

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### SECTION 2: ESTABLISH RAGLAN SECTIONS

Switch to US 9 / 5.5 mm circular needle.

**Set-up Round — Place Raglan Markers:**

Work as follows, placing markers as indicated:

| Section | Stitches |
|---|---|
| Back | 28 sts |
| pm (RM 1) | — |
| Left Sleeve | 8 sts |
| pm (RM 2) | — |
| Front | 28 sts |
| pm (RM 3) | — |
| Right Sleeve | 8 sts |
| pm (RM 4) | — |

> 📐 **Stitch check:** 28 + 8 + 28 + 8 = 72 sts ✅

Knit 1 round plain (no increases).

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### SECTION 3: YOKE — RAGLAN INCREASES

You will now work the raglan increase pattern. The yoke is worked in 2-round sequences:

- **Increase Round (RS):** *k to 1 st before RM, M1L, sm, M1R* — repeat at all 4 raglan markers, knit to end of round.
- **Plain Round:** Knit all stitches.

**Work these 2 rounds for a total of 29 increase rounds** (58 rounds total, approximately 9.5–10" of yoke depth).

> 📐 **Stitch count after 29 increase rounds:**
> - Each round adds 8 sts
> - 29 × 8 = 232 sts added
> - 72 + 232 = **304 sts total** ✅
>
> **Section breakdown:**
> - Back: 28 + (29 × 2) = **86 sts** ✅
> - Front: 28 + (29 × 2) = **86 sts** ✅
> - Left Sleeve: 8 + (29 × 2) = **66 sts** ✅
> - Right Sleeve: 8 + (29 × 2) = **66 sts** ✅
> - Total: 86 + 86 + 66 + 66 = **304 sts** ✅

**Trying on as you go:** Because this is top-down and seamless, you can slip all stitches onto a long piece of waste yarn at any point and try the sweater on. The yoke should reach approximately to the bottom of your armhole — about 9–10" below the shoulder seam point — before you separate the sleeves.

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### SECTION 4: SEPARATE SLEEVES FROM BODY

**Separation Round:**

Work around as follows:

1. Knit **86 Back sts**
2. Remove RM 1. Place next **66 Left Sleeve sts** on a stitch holder or waste yarn. Remove RM 2.
3. Using backward loop (e-wrap) cast-on, **CO 8 sts** for left underarm. Place a new marker here (this will become your new BOR marker).
4. Knit **86 Front sts**
5. Remove RM 3. Place next **66 Right Sleeve sts** on a stitch holder or waste yarn. Remove RM 4.
6. CO 8 sts for right underarm.
7. Continue knitting to BOR marker.

> 📐 **Body stitch check:**
> 86 (back) + 8 (left underarm) + 86 (front) + 8 (right underarm) = **188 sts** ✅
> 188 sts ÷ 4.5 sts/inch = **41.8" ≈ 42" chest circumference** ✅

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### SECTION 5: BODY

Knit all stitches in the round (stockinette) for approximately **15"** (or until body measures 1" less than desired length from underarm to hem, to allow for ribbing).

> **Fit tip:** Men's medium typically has a body length of 16–17" from underarm to hem. Try the sweater on regularly and adjust length as needed — this is one of the great advantages of top-down construction!

**Hem Ribbing:**

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm needles.

Work k2, p2 rib for 1" (approximately 6 rounds).

Bind off loosely in pattern using a stretchy bind-off (e.g., Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off, or simply bind off using a needle one or two sizes larger).

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### SECTION 6: SLEEVES

Return **66 held sleeve sts** to US 9 / 5.5 mm DPNs or needle for magic loop. Attach yarn at center of underarm.

**Pick-up Round:**

- Pick up and knit **4 sts** from left half of underarm cast-on edge
- Knit **66 held sleeve sts**
- Pick up and knit **4 sts** from right half of underarm cast-on edge
- Place BOR marker

> 📐 **Sleeve stitch check:** 4 + 66 + 4 = **74 sts** ✅
> 74 sts ÷ 4.5 sts/inch = **~16.4" sleeve circumference at underarm** ✅ (appropriate for men's medium)

Knit 1 round plain.

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**Sleeve Decreases:**

Work sleeve decreases as follows to taper the sleeve from 74 sts at the underarm to approximately **40 sts** at the cuff (a standard men's medium cuff width of ~9").

You will need to decrease **34 sts** total (17 decrease rounds, each removing 2 sts).

**Decrease Round:** k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (2 sts decreased)

Space decrease rounds evenly over the sleeve length of approximately **18"** (leaving 1" for cuff ribbing):

- 18" × 6 rounds/inch = 108 rounds
- 108 rounds ÷ 17 decrease rounds = **work a decrease round every 6th round** (approximately every 1 inch)

> **Work as follows:**
> - [Knit 5 rounds plain, work 1 Decrease Round] × 17 times
> - Then knit plain until sleeve measures approximately 18" from underarm (or 1" less than your desired total sleeve length)

> 📐 **Sleeve stitch check after all decreases:**
> 74 − (17 × 2) = 74 − 34 = **40 sts** ✅
> 40 sts ÷ 4.5 sts/inch = **~8.9" ≈ 9" cuff circumference** ✅

> **Fit tip:** Sleeve length is very personal. A standard men's medium sleeve runs approximately 32–33" from center back neck. From the underarm, target 18–19" to the start of the cuff ribbing. Try the sleeve on before starting the ribbing and adjust as needed.

**Cuff Ribbing:**

Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm DPNs or magic loop.

> **Note:** If 40 sts does not divide evenly into k2, p2 ribbing (40 ÷ 4 = 10 — it does ✅), proceed as written.

Work k2, p2 rib for 1.5–2" (approximately 9–12 rounds).

Bind off loosely in pattern.

Work the second sleeve identically.

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### SECTION 7: FINISHING

1. **Weave in all ends** using a tapestry needle, taking care to close any small gaps at the underarm join.
2. **Wet block** the finished sweater: soak in cool water for 15–20 minutes, gently squeeze out excess water (do not wring), lay flat and pin to measurements. Allow to dry completely.
3. The raglan lines should be visible as neat diagonal lines running from the neckline down to the underarm on each side.

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## SCHEMATIC (TEXT FORMAT)

```
        ←—— 16" neck ——→
       ___________________
      |    YOKE ~9.5"    |
      |  (raglan lines)  |
  ←sleeve→          ←sleeve→
  16.4" circ         16.4" circ
      |                   |
      |←——— 42" chest ————→|
      |                   |
      |   BODY ~16"       |
      |___________________|
           ↑ hem ribbing 1"

  SLEEVE (each):
  Top: 16.4" → tapers to 9" at cuff
  Length: ~19" total (18" + 1" cuff)
```

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## QUICK REFERENCE — KEY NUMBERS

| Checkpoint | Stitch Count |
|---|---|
| Cast-on (neckline) | 72 sts |
| After 29 increase rounds (yoke complete) | 304 sts |
| — Back sts | 86 sts |
| — Front sts | 86 sts |
| — Each Sleeve sts (on holder) | 66 sts |
| Body after underarm CO | 188 sts |
| Each Sleeve after underarm pick-up | 74 sts |
| Each Sleeve at cuff (after decreases) | 40 sts |

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## TROUBLESHOOTING & TIPS

**"My yoke feels too tight/shallow before I've done 29 increase rounds."**
Try the sweater on regularly. The yoke is ready to separate when it reaches approximately 9–10" in depth and the underarm hits comfortably — add or subtract a few increase rounds as needed. Each extra increase round adds approximately 0.33" of depth and 0.89" of width to the body.

**"There are holes at my underarm join."**
When picking up underarm stitches on the sleeve, pick up one extra stitch at each corner of the underarm gap and work a k2tog at the start of the next round to close the hole without leaving it visible.

**"My raglan lines are twisting."**
Make sure you are working M1L (lifted from front) before the marker and M1R (lifted from back) after the marker. This creates neat, diagonal, mirrored increases on each side of the raglan line.

**"I want to add a simple design to the yoke."**
This is an ideal template for a stripe sequence or a simple Fair Isle colorwork band in the yoke. Work colorwork during the increase rounds, keeping the raglan increase pattern consistent.

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*Pattern designed for intermediate knitters. All stitch counts mathematically verified for worsted weight gauge at 18 sts / 24 rounds = 4" in stockinette in the round.*