purlJam

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# Tuscan Gingham Crochet Blanket

### A Beginner-Friendly Throw in Three Colors

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## Description

This cozy throw blanket uses the **Tuscan Stitch** — a deceptively simple technique of alternating back-loop-only and front-loop-only single crochets across color-blocked row pairs — to create a classic **gingham check** pattern without any complicated colorwork. Three rotating colors build a timeless, cottage-style grid that looks far more intricate than it is. Perfect for a confident beginner ready to practice consistent tension and clean color changes.

**Finished Measurements:** Approximately **41" wide × 49.5" long** (104 cm × 126 cm), before border. With border: approximately **42" × 51"** (107 cm × 130 cm).

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## Materials

| Item | Details |
|---|---|
| **Yarn** | Worsted weight (#4), ~200 yds/skein |
| **Color A** | Main Check Color (e.g., warm cream / off-white) — **1,100 yds (5–6 skeins)** |
| **Color B** | Second Check Color (e.g., dusty sage green) — **1,100 yds (5–6 skeins)** |
| **Color C** | Third Check Color (e.g., terracotta) — **1,100 yds (5–6 skeins)** |
| **Total Yardage** | ~3,300 yds (3,020 m) |
| **Crochet Hook** | US J-10 / 6.0 mm |
| **Notions** | Yarn needle, scissors, stitch markers (optional), 3 bobby pins or locking stitch markers for carrying yarn |

> **Yarn Suggestions:** Lion Brand Pound of Love, Paintbox Simply DK (held double), Red Heart Soft, Caron Simply Soft, or any smooth worsted-weight yarn. Smooth yarns with good stitch definition will show the gingham effect most clearly. Avoid fuzzy or textured yarns.

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## Gauge

**14 sc × 16 rows = 4" × 4" (10 cm × 10 cm)** in Tuscan Stitch pattern with US J-10 / 6.0 mm hook.

> **Gauge Tip:** Work a swatch of at least 20 sts × 20 rows using all three colors in the color rotation. The Tuscan Stitch can pull tighter than standard sc — go up a hook size if your swatch is too small. Gauge affects finished size but not the pattern's visual design.

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## Sizes

One size as written. See **Adjusting Size** in Pattern Notes for instructions on making the blanket larger or smaller.

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## Abbreviations

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **ch** | chain |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **sc** | single crochet |
| **BLO** | back loop only |
| **FLO** | front loop only |
| **sl st** | slip stitch |
| **sk** | skip |
| **sp** | space |
| **RS** | right side |
| **WS** | wrong side |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **beg** | beginning |

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## Special Stitch Definitions

### Tuscan Stitch (worked over 2 rows)

The Tuscan Stitch is a two-row sequence of single crochets worked in alternating loops. The combination of BLO and FLO rows creates a woven, ridged texture. When combined with a two-row color rotation, this produces the gingham check effect.

- **Row Type 1 (BLO Row):** Ch 1, turn. Sc in the **back loop only** of every stitch across.
- **Row Type 2 (FLO Row):** Ch 1, turn. Sc in the **front loop only** of every stitch across.

One complete "Tuscan Stripe" = 1 BLO row + 1 FLO row (2 rows total) in the same color.

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## Pattern Notes

1. **Turning Chain:** Ch 1 at the beginning of each row. This ch-1 does **NOT** count as a stitch. Always work the first sc into the first stitch at the base of the turning chain.

2. **Color Changes:** Change to the new color on the **last pull-through of the last stitch** of the row (the final "pull up a loop and draw through both loops" of the last sc). This places the new color at the turning chain position, giving clean color stripes.

3. **Carrying Yarn:** Because each color is used every 6 rows, you have two options:
   - **Option A (Recommended for beginners):** Cut yarn at each color change and weave in ends as you go. This creates many ends but is the simplest method.
   - **Option B:** Carry unused colors up the side edge by loosely draping them behind the working yarn at each turn. Use a locking stitch marker on each carried yarn to keep them tidy. Do not pull the carried yarn tight.

4. **Color Rotation:** The gingham pattern is created by rotating through three colors in a strict sequence, two rows per color:
   - Rows 1–2: Color A
   - Rows 3–4: Color B
   - Rows 5–6: Color C
   - Rows 7–8: Color A
   - *(Repeat this 6-row sequence throughout)*

5. **Right Side vs. Wrong Side:** Row 1 is the RS. The Tuscan Stitch looks nearly identical on both sides, so the blanket is reversible.

6. **Stitch Count:** Stitch count remains **144 stitches** throughout every row of the body. Check your count every 10 rows.

7. **Adjusting Size:**
   - Add or subtract stitches in multiples of **6** to maintain the color-repeat alignment.
   - Add or subtract rows in multiples of **6** to maintain full gingham squares.
   - *Each 6 stitches adds approximately 1.7" (4.3 cm) to the width.*
   - *Each 6 rows adds approximately 1.5" (3.8 cm) to the length.*

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## Pattern Instructions

### Foundation Chain

Using **Color A** and US J-10 / 6.0 mm hook:

**Ch 145.**

> *The foundation chain is 145 chains: 144 working stitches + 1 for the turning chain.*

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### Row 1 (RS) — Color A, BLO Row

Ch 1 (does NOT count as st), turn.

Sc in the **back loop only** of the 2nd ch from hook, sc in the BLO of each ch across. **(144 sts)**

> *For the foundation chain row only, the "back loop" of a chain is the single ridge bump running along the bottom of the chain. Work into that bump for a neat foundation edge. If you find this difficult, working into the standard two loops of the chain is acceptable.*

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### Row 2 — Color A, FLO Row

Ch 1, turn.

Sc in the **front loop only** of each st across. **(144 sts)**

*At the end of Row 2, change to **Color B** on the last pull-through.*

> ✅ **Checkpoint:** You have completed 1 full Tuscan Stripe in Color A (1 BLO row + 1 FLO row). Count your stitches — you should have 144.

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### Row 3 — Color B, BLO Row

Ch 1, turn.

Sc in the **back loop only** of each st across. **(144 sts)**

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### Row 4 — Color B, FLO Row

Ch 1, turn.

Sc in the **front loop only** of each st across. **(144 sts)**

*At the end of Row 4, change to **Color C** on the last pull-through.*

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### Row 5 — Color C, BLO Row

Ch 1, turn.

Sc in the **back loop only** of each st across. **(144 sts)**

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### Row 6 — Color C, FLO Row

Ch 1, turn.

Sc in the **front loop only** of each st across. **(144 sts)**

*At the end of Row 6, change to **Color A** on the last pull-through.*

> ✅ **Checkpoint:** You have completed Rows 1–6, which is **1 full gingham repeat** (1 complete color cycle of A, B, C). The gingham check squares will become visible after 2–3 full repeats. Count your stitches — you should have 144.

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### Rows 7–198 — Repeat the 6-Row Color Sequence

Continue repeating the 6-row color sequence (2 rows Color A, 2 rows Color B, 2 rows Color C) as established in Rows 1–6.

**Color Rotation Reference:**

| Rows | Color | Row Type |
|---|---|---|
| 1–2 | A | BLO, then FLO |
| 3–4 | B | BLO, then FLO |
| 5–6 | C | BLO, then FLO |
| 7–8 | A | BLO, then FLO |
| 9–10 | B | BLO, then FLO |
| 11–12 | C | BLO, then FLO |
| *(Continue through Row 198)* | | |

**Total body rows: 198**
*(33 full 6-row gingham repeats)*

After Row 198, fasten off Color A (or whichever color ends Row 198 — it will be Color C, as 198 ÷ 6 = 33 exact repeats, ending with Color C's FLO row). Fasten off.

> ✅ **Final Checkpoint:** You should have **198 rows** of **144 stitches** each. The body should measure approximately **41" wide × 49.5" long** (104 cm × 126 cm).

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## Border

The border is worked in **Color A** in joined rounds. It adds a clean frame and approximately **½" (1.3 cm)** on each side.

> **Before beginning the border:** Weave in all yarn ends from the body so they are not in the way.

### Border Setup

Join Color A with a sl st to any corner stitch of the blanket body. You will work around all four sides of the blanket.

**Corner instruction:** Work **(sc, ch 2, sc)** into each corner space to turn the corners neatly. The ch-2 space is the corner point.

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### Border Round 1

Join Color A with a sl st to the top-right corner of the blanket.

**(Sc, ch 2, sc)** in the corner sp.

**Across the top edge (Row 198):** Sc in each of the 144 sts across. *(144 sc)*

**(Sc, ch 2, sc)** in the next corner.

**Down the left side edge:** Work **1 sc per row end** evenly along the side edge. *(198 sc — 1 sc per row end)*

**(Sc, ch 2, sc)** in the next corner.

**Across the bottom edge (foundation chain):** Sc in each of the 144 foundation sts across. *(144 sc)*

**(Sc, ch 2, sc)** in the last corner.

**Up the right side edge:** Work **1 sc per row end** evenly along the side edge. *(198 sc)*

Join with sl st to first sc of the round.

> **Total Border Round 1 stitch count:**
> - 4 corner ch-2 spaces
> - Top: 144 sc + 2 corner sc = 146 sc
> - Bottom: 144 sc + 2 corner sc = 146 sc
> - Each side: 198 sc + 2 corner sc = 200 sc per side
> - Total sc: 146 + 146 + 200 + 200 = **692 sc + 4 ch-2 corner spaces**

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### Border Round 2

Ch 1 (does NOT count as st). Working into the sts of Round 1:

Sc in each sc around, working **(sc, ch 2, sc)** into each ch-2 corner space.

Join with sl st to first sc.

> **Total Border Round 2 stitch count:** 692 sc + 4 ch-2 corner spaces *(same as Round 1, as no increases/decreases occur on straight sides; corners maintain with ch-2)*

*Fasten off Color A.*

> **Optional:** Work 1–2 additional border rounds in Color B or Color C for a wider, more decorative border. Each round adds approximately ¼" (0.6 cm) per side.

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## Finishing

1. **Weave in all ends** securely using a yarn needle. Weave each tail through at least 1–1.5" (2.5–4 cm) of stitches, doubling back in a different direction for security. Clip ends close to the fabric.

2. **Wet blocking (recommended):** Fill a basin or bathtub with lukewarm water. Submerge the blanket and gently press out air bubbles. Do not wring or twist. Lift the blanket out, supporting its full weight, and press between two towels to remove excess water. Lay flat on a clean, dry surface or blocking mats. Pin to finished measurements if desired. Allow to dry completely (12–24 hours). Blocking will even out tension variations and make the gingham pattern pop.

3. **Final Measurements After Blocking:** Approximately **42" × 51"** (107 cm × 130 cm) including border.

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## Schematic

```
┌────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│  ← approximately 42" (107 cm) →           │
│  ┌──────────────────────────────────────┐  │ ↑
│  │                                      │  │
│  │    Gingham Body — 144 sts wide       │  │
│  │           × 198 rows tall            │  │ ~51"
│  │                                      │  │ (130cm)
│  │  [A][A][B][B][C][C] repeating cols   │  │
│  │  [A][A][B][B][C][C] repeating rows   │  │
│  │                                      │  │
│  └──────────────────────────────────────┘  │ ↓
│         2-round Color A Border             │
└────────────────────────────────────────────┘
```

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## Yardage Breakdown

| Color | Rows Used | Estimated Yardage |
|---|---|---|
| Color A | 66 body rows + border | ~1,150 yds |
| Color B | 66 body rows | ~1,000 yds |
| Color C | 66 body rows | ~1,000 yds |
| **Total** | | **~3,150 yds** |

> *Yardage estimates include a 10% buffer. Actual yardage depends on your gauge and tension.*

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## Tips for Success

- **Consistent tension is key.** The Tuscan Stitch relies on uniform sc height. If your tension varies between BLO and FLO rows, your gingham squares may look uneven. Practice on a swatch first.
- **Use a row counter.** With 198 rows and a 6-row color repeat, it's easy to lose your place. A simple tally chart (mark off each color stripe) will help enormously.
- **Check which loop to work into before you begin each row.** A quick visual check — "Is this a BLO row or FLO row?" — prevents having to frog entire rows.
- **The gingham effect is subtle at first.** After 12–18 rows, the grid pattern will become clearly visible. Trust the process!
- **Carrying yarn up the side** (Option B in Pattern Notes) saves weaving in many ends but requires keeping the carried yarn loose enough not to pucker the edge. Test this on your swatch.

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*Pattern written in US crochet terminology. All measurements are in inches with centimeters in parentheses.*

*Skill Level: Beginner / Easy*

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