Type
Knitting
Difficulty
intermediate
Category
custom
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**:
- Victorian frock coat style: single-breasted, full-length sleeves, flared from waist to accommodate voluminous skirts
- Single color worsted weight yarn for classic, elegant appearance
- Dense, sturdy fabric: Double Seed Stitch (also called Moss Stitch) provides excellent structure, warmth, and body without curling
- Advanced difficulty allows for: set-in sleeves, tailored shaping, button bands, collar
- Length: approximately 32-36" to sit at mid-thigh/upper knee for proper Victorian silhouette
2. **Construction Plan**:
- Bottom-up construction for better flare shaping control
- Knit flat in pieces: Back, Two Fronts, Two Sleeves
- Set-in sleeves for structured, tailored fit
- Integrated button bands on fronts
- Notched lapel collar worked separately and sewn on
- Waist shaping: increases from hem to bust, then decreases to create flared silhouette
- Side vents at hem for ease of movement
3. **Quality Assurance**:
- Precise armhole/sleeve cap shaping critical for fit
- Button band must not pull or gap - worked in garter stitch for stability
- Collar attachment point clearly marked
- Detailed sizing chart with multiple measurements
- Stitch pattern maintains consistent gauge in shaping sections
- Blocking essential for professional finish
4. **Final Calculations**:
- Gauge: 18 sts × 26 rows = 4" in Double Seed Stitch (blocked)
- Five sizes: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)" finished bust with 2-4" positive ease
- Hip measurement (flared): 42 (46, 50, 54, 58)"
- Length from shoulder: 34 (34, 35, 35, 36)"
- Sleeve length: 18" to underarm
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
1. **Completeness**: ✓ Title, materials, gauge, sizes, abbreviations, pattern notes, full instructions, finishing
2. **Consistency**: ✓ Will verify all stitch counts through increases/decreases; gauge produces stated measurements
3. **Constraints**: ✓ Single color worsted, dense stitch pattern (Double Seed Stitch), Victorian frock coat silhouette, advanced difficulty, full sleeves, flared waist
4. **Safety**: ✓ Will include inline calculations for all shaping; double-check armhole depths and sleeve cap math
NOTE: User requested colorwork/fair isle in system requirements, but the actual REQUEST specifies "only 1 color" - following the actual user request for single-color coat. No colorwork charts needed.
Pattern
<pattern> # Victorian Frock Coat A sophisticated single-breasted coat inspired by Victorian tailoring, featuring a flared silhouette designed to flow gracefully over voluminous skirts. The dense Double Seed Stitch creates a structured, warm fabric perfect for outerwear, while set-in sleeves and a notched collar provide classic tailored elegance. ## SIZES 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)" finished bust measurement **Designed to be worn with 2-4" positive ease.** ### Finished Measurements - **Bust circumference**: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50)" - **Hip circumference** (at hem): 42 (46, 50, 54, 58)" - **Total length** (from shoulder): 34 (34, 35, 35, 36)" - **Sleeve length** (to underarm): 18" - **Cross-back width**: 15.5 (17, 18.5, 20, 21.5)" ## MATERIALS ### Yarn **Worsted weight yarn** (approx. 1800-2400 yards total) - Size 34": 1800 yards - Size 38": 2000 yards - Size 42": 2200 yards - Size 46": 2400 yards - Size 50": 2600 yards *Suggested yarn: Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool; 220 yards/100g) or similar worsted weight wool with good stitch definition* ### Needles - **US 7 (4.5 mm)** straight or circular needles (24" or longer) for main fabric - **US 6 (4 mm)** straight or circular needles for ribbing - Or sizes needed to obtain gauge ### Notions - 6-7 buttons, ¾-1" diameter - Stitch holders or waste yarn - Tapestry needle for seaming - Blocking wires (optional but helpful) - Sewing needle and thread for button attachment ## GAUGE **18 stitches × 26 rows = 4" in Double Seed Stitch on larger needles (blocked)** *Gauge is critical for proper fit. Take time to swatch and block your gauge swatch before beginning.* ## ABBREVIATIONS - **k**: knit - **p**: purl - **RS**: right side - **WS**: wrong side - **st(s)**: stitch(es) - **inc**: increase by knitting into front and back of stitch (kfb) - **dec**: decrease (for pattern, work k2tog on RS, p2tog on WS) - **k2tog**: knit 2 stitches together - **p2tog**: purl 2 stitches together - **ssk**: slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together - **BO**: bind off - **CO**: cast on - **pm**: place marker - **sm**: slip marker - **rem**: remaining ## PATTERN NOTES ### Double Seed Stitch (over even number of sts) **Row 1 (RS)**: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end. **Row 2 (WS)**: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end. **Row 3**: *P1, k1; repeat from * to end. **Row 4**: *P1, k1; repeat from * to end. **Repeat Rows 1-4 for pattern.** ### Construction This coat is worked flat in pieces from the bottom up. The back and two fronts are worked separately with waist shaping, then joined at the shoulders. Set-in sleeves are worked flat and seamed. The button band is integrated into the right front, while the buttonhole band is worked separately on the left front. A notched collar is worked separately and sewn on. ### Shaping Notes - The coat flares from waist to hem to accommodate full skirts underneath. - Increases and decreases are worked while maintaining the Double Seed Stitch pattern. Work increases as kfb (counts as k1), and work new stitches into pattern on following rows. - When stitch counts change, adjust to maintain Double Seed Stitch pattern integrity. ### Fit Guidance This coat is designed to be worn over dresses with 2-4" positive ease at the bust. The flared hem should measure 8" larger than the bust for proper silhouette. ## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS ### BACK #### Hem and Lower Body Using smaller needles, CO 94 (104, 112, 122, 130) sts. **Ribbing Setup Row (WS)**: *K2, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. **Next Row (RS)**: *P2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2. Repeat these 2 rows for 1.5", ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles. **Next Row (RS)**: Begin Double Seed Stitch. Work even in Double Seed Stitch for 3". *Measurement check: 4.5" from CO edge.* #### Waist Shaping - Decreases **Dec Row (RS)**: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [2 sts decreased] Repeat Dec Row every 12th row 4 more times. **84 (94, 102, 112, 120) sts remain** after all decreases. [Math check: 94 - (5 × 2) = 84 sts for size 34"; 104 - 10 = 94 sts for size 38"; 112 - 10 = 102 sts for size 42"; 122 - 10 = 112 sts for size 46"; 130 - 10 = 120 sts for size 50" ✓] Work even until piece measures 12 (12, 12.5, 12.5, 13)" from CO edge, ending with a WS row. *This is the natural waist.* #### Waist to Bust - Increases **Inc Row (RS)**: K1, inc, work in pattern to last 2 sts, inc, k1. [2 sts increased] Repeat Inc Row every 10th row 3 more times. **92 (102, 110, 120, 128) sts** after all increases. [Math check: 84 + (4 × 2) = 92 sts for size 34" ✓; continuing pattern for other sizes ✓] Work even until piece measures 21 (21, 21.5, 21.5, 22)" from CO edge, ending with a WS row. #### Armhole Shaping **BO 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts at beginning of next 2 rows.** 84 (92, 98, 106, 112) sts. **Dec Row (RS)**: K1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat Dec Row every RS row 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) more times. **72 (78, 82, 88, 92) sts remain.** [Math check Size 34": 92 - 8 (BO) - 12 (6 dec rows × 2) = 72 sts ✓] Work even until armhole measures 7.5 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)", ending with a WS row. *Total length: 28.5 (29, 30, 30.5, 31.5)" from CO edge.* #### Shoulder and Neck Shaping **Next Row (RS)**: BO 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, work in pattern until there are 20 (21, 23, 24, 26) sts on right needle, place center 20 (22, 22, 24, 24) sts on holder for back neck, join second ball of yarn and work to end. Working both sides at once: **BO 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts at beginning of next 3 armhole edges** (at beginning of WS row, then both sides of next RS row, then beginning of next WS row). **AT THE SAME TIME**, at each neck edge, **BO 4 sts once**, then **BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) sts once**. [Math check Size 34": Each shoulder starts with 26 sts after first BO. 26 - 6 (2nd BO) - 4 (neck) = 16. 16 - 6 (3rd BO) - 3 (neck) = 7. Final BO: 7 sts ✓] **BO remaining 7 (8, 9, 9, 10) sts on each shoulder.** ### LEFT FRONT (with integrated button band) #### Hem and Lower Body Using smaller needles, CO 54 (58, 64, 68, 72) sts. **Ribbing Setup Row (WS)**: K2, *p2, k2; repeat from * to end. **Next Row (RS)**: *P2, k2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, p2. Repeat these 2 rows for 1.5", ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles. **Pattern Setup Row (RS)**: Work 47 (51, 57, 61, 65) sts in Double Seed Stitch, pm, k7 (garter stitch button band). **Pattern Row (WS)**: K7, sm, work in Double Seed Stitch to end. Continue in pattern as established (maintaining 7-st garter band at front edge) throughout shaping. Work even for 3". *Measurement check: 4.5" from CO edge.* #### Waist Shaping - Decreases **Dec Row (RS)**: K1, ssk, work in pattern to end. [1 st decreased at side edge] Repeat Dec Row every 12th row 4 more times. **49 (53, 59, 63, 67) sts remain.** [Math check: 54 - 5 = 49 sts for size 34" ✓] Work even until piece measures 12 (12, 12.5, 12.5, 13)" from CO edge. #### Waist to Bust - Increases **Inc Row (RS)**: K1, inc, work in pattern to end. [1 st increased at side edge] Repeat Inc Row every 10th row 3 more times. **53 (57, 63, 67, 71) sts.** Work even until piece measures 21 (21, 21.5, 21.5, 22)" from CO edge, ending with a WS row. #### Armhole Shaping **Next Row (RS)**: BO 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts (side edge), work to end. **49 (52, 57, 60, 63) sts.** **Next Row (WS)**: Work even. **Dec Row (RS)**: K1, ssk, work in pattern to end. Repeat Dec Row every RS row 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) more times. **43 (45, 49, 51, 53) sts remain.** Work even until armhole measures 5.5 (6, 6.5, 7, 7.5)", ending with a RS row. #### Neck Shaping **Next Row (WS)**: BO 7 (8, 8, 9, 9) sts (front edge - removes button band), work to end. **36 (37, 41, 42, 44) sts.** **Dec Row (RS)**: Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat Dec Row every RS row 9 (9, 10, 10, 11) more times. **26 (27, 30, 31, 32) sts remain.** [Math check Size 34": 43 - 7 (BO band) - 10 (neck decs) = 26 sts ✓] Work even until armhole measures same as Back to shoulder, ending with a WS row. #### Shoulder Shaping **Next Row (RS)**: BO 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, work to end. **Next Row (WS)**: Work even. **Next Row (RS)**: BO 6 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts, work to end. **Next Row (WS)**: Work even. **Next Row (RS)**: BO 7 (6, 9, 7, 8) sts, work to end. **Next Row (WS)**: Work even. **BO remaining 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) sts.** [Math check Size 34": 26 - 6 - 6 - 7 - 7 = 0 sts ✓] ### RIGHT FRONT (with buttonhole band) #### Hem and Lower Body Using smaller needles, CO 54 (58, 64, 68, 72) sts. **Ribbing Setup Row (WS)**: *K2, p2; repeat from * to last 2 sts, k2. **Next Row (RS)**: P2, *k2, p2; repeat from * to end. Repeat these 2 rows for 1.5", ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles. **Pattern Setup Row (RS)**: K7 (garter stitch buttonhole band), pm,
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
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