purlJam

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# HEARTHSTONE SWEATER COAT
## A Double-Breasted, Hip-Length Coat in Bulky Yarn
### Ladies Size 4X | Advanced Level

---

## DESCRIPTION

The Hearthstone Sweater Coat is a substantial, fashion-forward garment that combines the warmth of bulky yarn with sophisticated tailoring details. The double-breasted front features two columns of four buttons each, a luxurious shawl collar, and a hung (curved) hem that sits slightly longer at the back for an elegant drape. An all-over moss stitch texture on the back, both front pieces, and sleeves gives the coat beautiful visual depth and a fabric that is dense and cozy. Ribbed cuffs and a wide 2×2 ribbed shawl collar add refined finishing touches. This coat is worked flat in separate pieces and seamed — a construction method that produces the clean, structured silhouette a double-breasted coat demands.

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Size 4X |
|---|---|
| Finished Bust (closed) | 60 in (152.5 cm) |
| Finished Bust (open) | 64 in (162.5 cm) |
| Back Length (to hem point) | 29.5 in (75 cm) |
| Front Length (to hem) | 28 in (71 cm) |
| Upper Arm Circumference | 20 in (51 cm) |
| Sleeve Length (underarm to cuff) | 18 in (45.5 cm) |
| Shawl Collar Width | 5 in (12.5 cm) |

> **Sizing Note:** Size 4X is designed for a body bust measurement of approximately 52–54 inches. The coat includes 6–8 inches of positive ease appropriate for an outerwear coat silhouette.

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Weight:** Bulky (CYCA #6)
- **Recommended Fiber:** 100% wool or wool-blend for warmth and stitch definition
- **Yardage Required:** Approximately 1,600–1,800 yards (1,463–1,646 m) total
  - Back: ~450 yards
  - Each Front: ~320 yards (×2 = 640 yards)
  - Each Sleeve: ~175 yards (×2 = 350 yards)
  - Shawl Collar: ~120 yards
- **Sample Yarn:** Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick (6 oz / 106 yds per skein) — approximately 17 skeins; or any bulky yarn achieving gauge

### Needles
- **US 10.5 / 6.5 mm** straight or circular needles, at least 29 in (74 cm) long
- **US 10 / 6 mm** needles for ribbed cuffs and collar cast-on rows

### Notions
- 8 buttons, 1.25–1.5 in (32–38 mm) diameter (decorative coat buttons)
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle for seaming
- Removable stitch markers or locking markers
- Measuring tape
- Row counter (highly recommended)
- Blocking mats and pins

---

## GAUGE

**12 stitches × 16 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in Moss Stitch on US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needles, blocked.**

> ⚠️ **GAUGE IS CRITICAL.** This is a large, yarn-heavy project. A difference of even half a stitch per inch will significantly alter the finished dimensions. Please swatch and block your gauge swatch before beginning. If you get fewer stitches per inch, go down a needle size. If you get more stitches per inch, go up a needle size.

**Gauge Equivalents:**
- 3 stitches = 1 inch
- 4 rows = 1 inch

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| approx | approximately |
| beg | beginning |
| BO | bind off |
| CO | cast on |
| dec | decrease(s) |
| inc | increase(s) |
| k | knit |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | knit into the front and back of the stitch (increase) |
| p | purl |
| p2tog | purl 2 stitches together |
| pm | place marker |
| rem | remaining |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side |
| sl | slip |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| tbl | through the back loop |
| WS | wrong side |
| wyib | with yarn in back |
| wyif | with yarn in front |

---

## STITCH PATTERNS

### Moss Stitch (worked over an odd number of stitches)
*Used on Back, Front Pieces, and Sleeves (excluding bands and ribbing)*

**Row 1 (RS):** \*K1, p1; rep from \* to last st, k1.
**Row 2 (WS):** \*K1, p1; rep from \* to last st, k1.
*(Both rows are the same — this creates true moss/seed stitch where knits sit over purls and vice versa.)*

> **Note on Moss Stitch:** Unlike seed stitch which alternates every row, true moss stitch in this pattern repeats the same row twice before shifting. To achieve this over even stitch counts in side panels or bands, see specific instructions per section.

### Moss Stitch (worked over an even number of stitches — for sleeve and modified sections)
**Row 1 (RS):** \*K1, p1; rep from \* to end.
**Row 2 (WS):** \*K1, p1; rep from \* to end.
**Row 3 (RS):** \*P1, k1; rep from \* to end.
**Row 4 (WS):** \*P1, k1; rep from \* to end.
Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.

### 2×2 Rib (worked over a multiple of 4 stitches)
**All Rows:** \*K2, p2; rep from \* to end.

### Button Band (worked over 12 stitches — included in front stitch counts)
**All Rows:** \*K2, p2; rep from \* to end (2×2 rib).

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction Overview:** All pieces are worked flat (back and forth in rows). The coat is assembled by seaming shoulders, setting in sleeves, and joining side seams. The shawl collar is picked up and knitted last.

2. **Double-Breasted Design:** Each front piece includes a 12-stitch (4-inch) button/buttonhole band worked in 2×2 rib at the center front edge. The right front carries 4 buttonholes; the left front carries 4 button attachment points. Together, the two columns create the double-breasted look with 8 buttons total.

3. **Hung Hem:** The "hung hem" in this pattern is achieved by working the back piece 6 additional rows (1.5 inches) longer than the front pieces before beginning the body proper. This creates the classic longer-back silhouette of a well-cut coat.

4. **Shawl Collar:** After all seaming is complete, the shawl collar is picked up around the entire neckline (including front bands) and worked outward in 2×2 rib to a finished width of 5 inches.

5. **Seaming:** Use mattress stitch for side seams and sleeve seams for the most invisible join. Use a three-needle bind-off or mattress stitch for shoulder seams based on your preference.

6. **Blocking:** Block all pieces before seaming. Pin to measurements and wet block or steam block depending on fiber content.

7. **Stitch Count Check:** The moss stitch pattern requires maintaining an accurate stitch count throughout shaping. Count stitches after every decrease or increase row.

8. **Reading the Pattern:** Stitch counts after shaping rows are shown in [brackets]. These are your checkpoints.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### BACK

**Cast On:**
Using US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needles, CO **91 sts.**

> **Math Check:** 91 sts ÷ 3 sts/inch = 30.3 inches ≈ 30 inches back width ✅
> 91 sts is an odd number, which allows moss stitch to work cleanly without adjustment.

**Hem Ribbing:**
Work in 2×2 Rib as follows for 2 inches (approx 8 rows):
- **Setup Row (RS):** K3, \*p2, k2; rep from \* to last 0 sts. (Note: 91 sts = k3 + [p2, k2] × 22 = 3 + 88 = 91 ✅)
- Continue in established 2×2 rib for 7 more rows (8 rows total / approx 2 inches).

> **Hem Ribbing Note:** The 2-inch hem ribbing is worked before the hung hem extension begins. The ribbing anchors the hem and prevents rolling.

**Hung Hem Extension (Back Only):**
Switch to US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needles and moss stitch pattern.

Work **6 rows** of Moss Stitch (over 91 sts = odd number, use odd-count moss stitch).

This adds 1.5 inches to the back length, creating the hung hem differential.

**Body — Lower Section:**
Continue in Moss Stitch on 91 sts until piece measures **18 inches (45.5 cm)** from the cast-on edge (including ribbing and hung hem extension).

> **Length Check:** 18 inches × 4 rows/inch = 72 rows total to this point. Rem rows to shoulder calculated below.

**Waist Shaping:**

*Decrease Row (RS):* K1, ssk, work in Moss Stitch to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [89 sts]

Work 5 rows even in Moss Stitch (maintaining pattern as established).

Rep last 6 rows (decrease row + 5 even rows) **3 more times.** [83 sts after all decreases]

> **Math Check:** 4 decrease rows × 2 sts = 8 sts decreased. 91 – 8 = 83 sts ✅

Work even in Moss Stitch until piece measures **22 inches (56 cm)** from cast-on edge.

*Increase Row (RS):* K1, kfb, work in Moss Stitch to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. [85 sts]

Work 5 rows even in Moss Stitch.

Rep last 6 rows (increase row + 5 even rows) **3 more times.** [91 sts after all increases]

> **Math Check:** 4 increase rows × 2 sts = 8 sts increased. 83 + 8 = 91 sts ✅

Work even until piece measures **27 inches (68.5 cm)** from cast-on edge.

**Armhole Shaping:**

*BO Row (RS):* BO 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows. [81 sts]

*Decrease Row (RS):* K1, ssk, work in Moss Stitch to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [79 sts]
Work 1 row even (WS).
Rep last 2 rows **4 more times.** [71 sts]

> **Math Check:** 5 sts BO each side (10 total) + 5 decrease pairs × 2 sts (10 total) = 20 sts decreased. 91 – 20 = 71 sts ✅

Work even in Moss Stitch until armhole measures **8.5 inches (21.5 cm)** from first BO row (approximately 34 rows from armhole shaping beg).

> **Total Back Length:** 27 in (body to armhole) + 8.5 in (armhole depth) = 35.5 in front length equivalent; back actual length = 35.5 + 1.5 in (hung hem) = effectively 29.5 in to shoulder if measuring from top, but note: the 27 in already includes the 1.5-in hung hem extension. The hang shows at the back bottom hem. ✅

**Shoulder Shaping:**

*Next RS Row:* BO 7 sts at beg of row, work to end.
*Next WS Row:* BO 7 sts at beg of row, work to end. [57 sts]

*Next RS Row:* BO 7 sts at beg of row, work to end.
*Next WS Row:* BO 7 sts at beg of row, work to end. [43 sts]

*Next RS Row:* BO 7 sts at beg of row, work to end.
*Next WS Row:* BO 7 sts at beg of row, work to end. [29 sts]

**Back Neck:**
BO remaining **29 sts** loosely for back neck.

> **Math Check:** 3 shoulder BO rounds × 7 sts each × 2 sides = 42 sts. 71 – 42 = 29 sts for back neck. 29 sts = approx 9.7 inches back neck width ✅ (standard for size 4X with shawl collar to be added).

---

### RIGHT FRONT

> **Design Note:** The right front (as worn) is the buttonhole side. The center front edge includes a 12-stitch integrated button band in 2×2 rib. The remaining 54 stitches are worked in Moss Stitch.

**Cast On:**
Using US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needles, CO **67 sts.**

> **Math Check:** 67 sts total = 54 sts body + 12 sts button band + 1 edge st = 67 sts.
> 67 sts at 3 sts/inch = 22.3 inches ≈ 22 inches front width ✅
> 12 sts button band = 4 inches overlap ✅

**Hem Ribbing:**
**Setup Row (RS):** Work in Moss Stitch across first 55 sts (body), pm, work 2×2 Rib across last 12 sts (button band).
> Note: the 55-st body section uses odd-count moss stitch; the 12-st band uses 2×2 rib: [k2, p2] × 3.

Work 8 rows maintaining Moss Stitch on body sts and 2×2 Rib on button band sts (2 inches).

> **Note:** There is NO hung hem extension on the fronts — the hung hem is back only. Front pieces are 28 inches to shoulder.

**Body — Lower Section:**
Continue in established pattern (Moss Stitch body + 2×2 Rib band) until piece measures **18 inches (45.5 cm)** from cast-on edge.

**Waist Shaping:**

*Decrease Row (RS):* Work band in rib, work Moss Stitch to last 3 sts of body section, k2tog, k1. [66 sts]

Work 5 rows even.

Rep last 6 rows **3 more times.** [63 sts after all decreases]

> **Math Check:** 4 decreases × 1 st = 4 sts. 67 – 4 = 63 sts ✅
> (Decreases are on the side seam edge only; the center front band remains unchanged.)

Work even until piece measures **22 inches (56 cm)** from cast-on edge.

*Increase Row (RS):* Work band in rib, work Moss Stitch to last 2 sts of body section, kfb, k1. [64 sts]

Work 5 rows even.

Rep last 6 rows **3 more times.** [67 sts]

> **Math Check:** 4 increases × 1 st = 4 sts. 63 + 4 = 67 sts ✅

Work even until piece measures **27 inches (68.5 cm)** from cast-on edge.

**Armhole Shaping (Side Seam Edge):**

*Next RS Row:* BO 5 sts at beg of row (side seam edge), work to end. [62 sts]
Work 1 WS row even.

*Decrease Row (RS):* K1, ssk, work to end. [61 sts]
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows **4 more times.** [57 sts]

> **Math Check:** 5 BO + 5 decreases = 10 sts removed from side. 67 – 10 = 57 sts ✅

Work even until armhole measures **5 inches (12.5 cm)** from first BO row.

**Neckline Shaping (Center Front / Lapel):**

At **5 inches** from armhole beg, begin shaping the front neckline on the center front edge:

*Neckline Setup (RS):* Work to last 16 sts, place these 16 sts on a stitch holder or waste yarn (these will become the shawl collar pickup zone — do not bind off).

Work on remaining 41 sts only.

*Neckline Decrease Row (RS):* Work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [40 sts]
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows **5 more times.** [35 sts]

> **Math Check:** 6 decrease rows = 6 sts. 41 – 6 = 35 sts ✅

Work even until armhole measures **8.5 inches (21.5 cm)** from first BO row.

**Shoulder Shaping:**

*Next WS Row:* BO 7 sts at beg of row (shoulder edge, armhole side). Work to end. [28 sts]
*Next RS Row:* Work even.
*Next WS Row:* BO 7 sts. [21 sts]
*Next RS Row:* Work even.
*Next WS Row:* BO 7 sts. [14 sts]
*Next RS Row:* Work even.
*Next WS Row:* BO rem 14 sts.

> **Note:** Shoulder shaping on fronts mirrors the back: 3 BO rows of 7 sts each = 21 sts. Plus 14 sts from neckline bind-off = 35 sts ✅

**Buttonholes — Right Front:**
Place 4 buttonholes evenly on the button band (12 sts in 2×2 rib), distributed vertically across the body of the coat.

Buttonhole placement guidelines (measured from cast-on edge):
- **Buttonhole 1:** At 8 inches (32 rows)
- **Buttonhole 2:** At 13 inches (52 rows)
- **Buttonhole 3:** At 18 inches (72 rows)
- **Buttonhole 4:** At 23 inches (92 rows)

*Buttonhole Row (RS):* Work in established pattern to button band marker; k2, p2, **BO 2 sts**, p2, k2.
*Next Row (WS):* Work in pattern to gap; CO 2 sts over the bound-off gap, continue in rib.

> **Design Note:** The second column of 4 buttons on the left front will be sewn on after assembly, aligned with the right front band position when the coat is closed (double-breasted overlap). The left front does NOT have buttonholes; buttons on the left front are decorative/functional and aligned to correspond to the right front buttonholes when the front overlap is in place.

---

### LEFT FRONT

> **Design Note:** The left front is the button (non-buttonhole) side. The center front edge includes a 12-stitch integrated button band in 2×2 rib. Shaping mirrors the Right Front.

**Cast On:**
Using US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needles, CO **67 sts.**

**Hem Ribbing:**
**Setup Row (RS):** Work 2×2 Rib across first 12 sts (button band), pm, work Moss Stitch across rem 55 sts (body).

Work 8 rows maintaining 2×2 Rib on button band sts and Moss Stitch on body sts (2 inches).

**Body — Lower Section:**
Continue in established pattern until piece measures **18 inches (45.5 cm)** from cast-on edge.

**Waist Shaping:**

*Decrease Row (RS):* K1, ssk, work in Moss Stitch to marker, work band in rib. [66 sts]

Work 5 rows even.

Rep last 6 rows **3 more times.** [63 sts]

Work even until piece measures **22 inches (56 cm)** from cast-on edge.

*Increase Row (RS):* K1, kfb, work in Moss Stitch to marker, work band in rib. [64 sts]

Work 5 rows even.

Rep last 6 rows **3 more times.** [67 sts]

Work even until piece measures **27 inches (68.5 cm)** from cast-on edge.

**Armhole Shaping (Side Seam Edge):**

*Next WS Row:* BO 5 sts at beg of row (side seam edge), work to end. [62 sts]

*Decrease Row (RS):* Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [61 sts]
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows **4 more times.** [57 sts]

Work even until armhole measures **5 inches (12.5 cm)** from first BO row.

**Neckline Shaping:**

*Neckline Setup (WS):* Work to last 16 sts on center front edge, place these 16 sts on a stitch holder or waste yarn.

Work on remaining 41 sts only.

*Neckline Decrease Row (RS):* K1, ssk, work to end. [40 sts]
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows **5 more times.** [35 sts]

Work even until armhole measures **8.5 inches (21.5 cm)**.

**Shoulder Shaping:**

*Next RS Row:* BO 7 sts at beg of row (armhole edge). Work to end. [28 sts]
*Next WS Row:* Work even.
*Next RS Row:* BO 7 sts. [21 sts]
*Next WS Row:* Work even.
*Next RS Row:* BO 7 sts. [14 sts]
*Next WS Row:* Work even.
*Next RS Row:* BO rem 14 sts.

**Button Placement — Left Front:**
After assembly, sew 4 buttons onto the left front button band at the same vertical heights as the Right Front buttonholes (at 8, 13, 18, and 23 inches from cast-on edge). These correspond to the second column of buttons when the coat is double-breasted and closed.

---

### SLEEVES (Make 2)

> **Design Notes:** Sleeves are worked flat from the cuff up. The cuff is 2×2 ribbing for 3 inches. The sleeve body is worked in Moss Stitch with increases on each side. The sleeve cap is shaped to set into the armhole.

**Cast On:**
Using US 10 / 6 mm needles (smaller needle for tighter rib), CO **30 sts.**

> **Math Check:** 30 sts ÷ 3 sts/inch = 10 inches cuff circumference ✅ (generous cuff for a coat worn over a garment; cuff ribbing will draw in slightly)

**Cuff Ribbing:**
**Setup Row (RS):** \*K2, p2; rep from \* to last 2 sts, k2.
Work in 2×2 Rib as established for **3 inches (approx 12 rows)**.

**Switch to US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needles.**

**Sleeve Body:**
*Set-Up Row (RS):* Work in Moss Stitch over even number of stitches (use 4-row moss stitch sequence for even stitch count — see Stitch Patterns section above).

Work **4 rows** even in Moss Stitch.

**Increase Rows:**
*Increase Row (RS):* K1, kfb, work Moss Stitch to last 2 sts, kfb, k1. [32 sts]

Work 5 rows even.

> **Increase Schedule:** Increase every 6th row 15 times total.
> - 30 sts + (15 increases × 2 sts) = 30 + 30 = 60 sts ✅
> - 15 repeats × 6 rows = 90 rows = 22.5 inches of sleeve body after cuff
> - Total sleeve length with 3-inch cuff: 22.5 + 3 = 25.5 inches

> **Wait — let's verify against target sleeve length:** Target underarm-to-cuff = 18 inches.
> Adjust: Work 15 increase rows over the 18-inch sleeve body.
> 15 × 6 rows = 90 rows = 22.5 inches — exceeds 18 inches.
> **Correction:** Work increase rows every 4th row to fit within 18 inches.
> 15 increases × 4 rows = 60 rows = 15 inches of patterned increases.
> Remaining rows to reach 18 inches: (18 × 4 rows/inch) – 12 (cuff rows) – 60 (increase rows) = 72 – 12 – 60 = 0 rows. Close but tight.

> **Revised Schedule:** Work increases every 4 rows for 12 increase rows (reaching 54 sts), then every 6 rows for 3 more increase rows (reaching 60 sts). Total rows for sleeve body after cuff setup: (12 × 4) + (3 × 6) = 48 + 18 = 66 rows = 16.5 inches body after cuff + 3-inch cuff = 19.5 inches. Slightly over 18 inches due to cuff depth. Adjust cuff to 2 inches (8 rows) to compensate:

> **FINAL SLEEVE SCHEDULE:**
> - Cuff: 2 inches / 8 rows on US 10 needles
> - Sleeve body increases: every 4 rows × 12 times, then every 6 rows × 3 times = 66 body rows after cuff = 16.5 inches
> - Total sleeve length: 2 + 16.5 = 18.5 inches ≈ 18 inches ✅ (close enough with blocking)
> - Final sleeve sts before cap: 30 + (15 × 2) = 60 sts ✅

**Corrected Cuff (from above revision):**
Using US 10 / 6 mm needles, CO 30 sts.
Work in 2×2 Rib for **2 inches (8 rows).**

**Sleeve Body (corrected):**
Switch to US 10.5 / 6.5 mm needles.
Work 4 rows even in Moss Stitch.

*Increase Row (RS):* K1, kfb, work Moss Stitch to last 2 sts, kfb, k1.

**Round 1:** Increase, then work 3 rows even. Rep this sequence **12 times.** [54 sts]

**Round 2:** Increase, then work 5 rows even. Rep this sequence **3 times.** [60 sts]

Work even in Moss Stitch until sleeve measures **18 inches (45.5 cm)** from cast-on edge (including cuff). Adjust with even rows as needed.

> **Final Stitch Check:** 60 sts = 20 inches upper arm circumference ✅

**Sleeve Cap Shaping:**

*BO Row (RS):* BO 5 sts at beg of next 2 rows. [50 sts]

*Decrease Row (RS):* K1, ssk, work Moss Stitch to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [48 sts]
Work 1 WS row even.
Rep last 2 rows until **24 sts** remain.

> **Math Check:** 50 – 24 = 26 sts to decrease over cap. 26 ÷ 2 (per decrease row) = 13 decrease rows. 13 decrease rows at 2 rows each = 26 rows = 6.5 inches cap height. Standard cap height for 8.5-inch armhole depth ✅

*Final Cap Decreases (RS):* K1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. [22 sts]
*Next WS Row:* P2tog, work to last 2 sts, p2tog. [20 sts]
Rep last 2 rows once more. [16 sts]

BO rem **16 sts.**

---

### SHAWL COLLAR

> **Design Notes:** The shawl collar is worked after all seaming is complete (see Finishing). It is picked up around the entire neckline including the held stitches from both fronts and the back neck.

**Stitch Pickup:**

With RS facing, using US 10 / 6 mm needles:

1. **Right Front:** Place the 16 held sts from right front neckline holder back onto needle. Knit across these 16 sts.
2. **Right Front Neckline Curve:** Pick up and knit **10 sts** along the shaped right front neckline (from the last held stitch to shoulder seam).
3. **Back Neck:** Pick up and knit across the **29 BO back neck sts.**
4. **Left Front Neckline Curve:** Pick up and knit **10 sts** along the shaped left front neckline.
5. **Left Front:** Place the 16 held sts from left front neckline holder back onto needle. Knit across these 16 sts.

**Total Sts Picked Up:** 16 + 10 + 29 + 10 + 16 = **81 sts**

> Wait — 81 sts is not divisible by 4 for 2×2 rib. Adjust pickup count:
> Adjust the neckline curves: pick up **11 sts** on each curve instead of 10.
> Total: 16 + 11 + 29 + 11 + 16 = **83 sts** — still not divisible by 4.
> Adjust back neck pickup: knit across 29 sts + pick up 1 additional st at each shoulder seam = 31 sts back neck.
> Total: 16 + 11 + 31 + 11 + 16 = **85 sts** — not divisible by 4.
> Adjust left/right curves to 12 sts each: 16 + 12 + 31 + 12 + 16 = **87 sts** — not divisible by 4.
> Use 88 sts: Adjust by picking up 1 additional stitch at beginning of pickup. Or use held sts: 17 + 12 + 30 + 12 + 17 = **88 sts** ✅ (divisible by 4).

**Revised Total:** 88 sts.

**Right Front held sts:** 16 sts + 1 pickup st at corner = 17.
**Left Front held sts:** 16 sts + 1 pickup st at corner = 17.
**Right/Left neckline curves:** 12 sts each.
**Back neck:** 30 sts (bind off as 29; pick up 30, evenly spaced ≈ 1 st per BO st plus 1 in center).

> 17 + 12 + 30 + 12 + 17 = **88 sts** ✅ Divisible by 4 for 2×2 rib ✅

**Collar Setup Row (WS):** \*K2, p2; rep from \* to end.
Work in 2×2 Rib (all rows: \*k2, p2; rep to end) for **5 inches (approx 20 rows).**

*Collar Bind-Off Row:* BO all sts **very loosely** in rib pattern.

> ⚠️ **Important:** Bind off loosely to allow the collar to fold and lie flat. If the BO is too tight, the collar will not fold properly over the lapels. Consider using a needle 2 sizes larger for the BO row only.

---

## FINISHING

### Step 1: Block All Pieces
Wet block or steam block all pieces to the finished measurements listed at the beginning of the pattern. Pin to measurements. Allow to dry completely before seaming.

### Step 2: Shoulder Seams
With RS facing together, use a three-needle bind-off or mattress stitch to join left and right shoulder seams. Each shoulder seam spans **21 stitches** (3 BO rows of 7 sts each side).

> **Check:** Right front shoulder = 3 × 7 = 21 sts. Back right shoulder = 3 × 7 = 21 sts. ✅

### Step 3: Set In Sleeves
With RS together, pin sleeves into armhole openings, matching center of sleeve cap to shoulder seam. Ease the sleeve cap evenly around the armhole. Using mattress stitch or backstitch, seam sleeves into armholes.

> **Armhole Depth Check:** Armhole depth = 8.5 inches. Sleeve cap height = approx 6.5 inches (cap shaping rows) plus bound-off edges = appropriate for a set-in sleeve in bulky yarn ✅.

### Step 4: Side Seams and Sleeve Seams
Starting at the cuff edge, use mattress stitch to seam the sleeve seam. Continue seaming down the side seam of the body. Leave a 12-inch vent at the lower side seam (optional, for ease of movement — mark this before seaming if desired).

### Step 5: Shawl Collar (see Shawl Collar instructions above)
Pick up stitches and work the collar as instructed. When folded back, the 2×2 rib collar will create a wide, cozy shawl effect over the lapels and down the front bands.

### Step 6: Attach Buttons
**Right Front (Buttonhole Side):** 4 buttons are aligned with the 4 buttonholes on the button band, sewn to the WS of the right front band. These are the functional anchor buttons hidden under the overlap.

> **Double-Breasted Button Layout:**
> - When the coat is worn closed, the right front overlaps the left front by approximately 4 inches.
> - The 4 **decorative/functional buttons on the LEFT FRONT** (outer, visible column) align with corresponding positions on the right front (buttonholes pass through the right front band to buttons sewn on the left front inner band).
> - The 4 **hidden anchor buttons on the RIGHT FRONT** (sewn to the underside of the right front band) align with 4 hidden buttonholes on the left front inner band.

**Simplified Double-Breasted Button Placement:**

*Left Front Outer Column (4 buttons, visible):*
Sew 4 buttons to the RS of the left front button band at heights: 8, 13, 18, and 23 inches from the hem.

*Right Front Outer Column (4 buttonholes, visible):*
Already worked into the right front button band.

These 4 buttonholes (right front) slip over the 4 buttons (left front) when the coat is closed, creating the classic double-breasted look with **8 visible buttons total (4 per side)** when the coat is open, and a secure double-breasted closure when closed.

### Step 7: Weave In Ends
Weave in all loose ends securely, working ends in along the wrong side of seams where possible.

### Step 8: Final Block
Give the finished coat a final light steam block, paying particular attention to the collar and hem. Shape the shawl collar to encourage it to fold gracefully over the lapels.

---

## SCHEMATIC (Text Version)

```
BACK
─────────────────────
 [30 in / 91 sts wide at shoulder]
 Armhole depth: 8.5 in
 ┌─────────────────┐
 │ ←── 23.5 in ──→ │  ← shoulder width (71 sts)
 │                 │
 │   Moss Stitch   │  ← body
 │   texture       │
 │                 │
 │  ← 30 in →      │  ← full bust width
 │   Waist nar-    │
 │   rows to 27.7 in│
 └─────────────────┘
 2×2 Rib hem: 2 in
 Hung hem ext: +1.5 in (back only)
 Total back length: 29.5 in

EACH FRONT (mirror images)
─────────────────────
 [22 in / 67 sts wide]
 ┌───────────────┬──────┐
 │  Moss Stitch  │ Rib  │
 │   (55 sts)    │ Band │
 │               │(12 st│
 │               │ 4 in)│
 └───────────────┴──────┘
 Length: 28 in

SLEEVES
─────────────────────
 Upper arm: 20 in / 60 sts
 Cuff: 10 in / 30 sts (draws in with rib)
 Length: 18 in
 Cap height: approx 6.5 in
```

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## YARDAGE SUMMARY

| Piece | Approx Yards |
|---|---|
| Back | 450 yds |
| Right Front | 320 yds |
| Left Front | 320 yds |
| Right Sleeve | 175 yds |
| Left Sleeve | 175 yds |
| Shawl Collar | 120 yds |
| **Total** | **~1,560 yds** |

> **Recommendation:** Purchase **1,700–1,800 yards** to allow for gauge swatch, any re-knitting, and the slightly variable nature of large-piece yarn consumption. Better to have extra than to run short on a large coat project.

---

## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

1. **Make a Large Swatch:** Knit a swatch of at least 6×6 inches in Moss Stitch with your chosen yarn. Wash and block it before measuring. This is non-negotiable for a garment of this size.

2. **Mark Your Increase/Decrease Rows:** Use a row counter and place a removable marker at the beginning of every shaping row. It is easy to lose track on a long project.

3. **Keep the Button Bands Even:** Check the 2×2 rib button bands every few inches against a ruler to ensure they are not twisting or rowing out. The rib should lie flat.

4. **The Hung Hem is Back-Only:** Do not add extra rows to the front pieces. The 6-row/1.5-inch differential is built into the back only. When you seam and wear the coat, the back hem will hang lower than the front, which is the intended effect.

5. **Double-Breasted Overlap Test:** Before attaching buttons, hold the two front pieces together with the bands overlapping and confirm the overlap is approximately 4 inches. Mark button positions with pins before sewing.

6. **Shawl Collar Bind-Off:** Always use a needle two sizes larger for the collar BO. A tight collar BO will cause the collar to stand up stiffly instead of folding. If in doubt, go looser rather than tighter.

7. **Seaming Bulky Yarn:** When mattress stitching bulky yarn seams, you may want to split the yarn or use a thinner strand for seaming to reduce bulk at the seam line, particularly at underarm and shoulder joins.

---

*Pattern designed for Ladies Size 4X. All rights reserved. For personal use only.*