purlJam

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# Waffle & Warmth Cardigan
## Ladies Hip-Length Shawl Collar Cardigan in Waffle Stitch
### Size: 4X (58" finished bust)

---

## DESCRIPTION

This stunning hip-length cardigan features a richly textured waffle stitch body and sleeves, cozy 2x2 ribbed cuffs and hem, a sweeping shawl collar, and a wide button band with five statement buttons. Constructed in separate pieces and seamed for excellent structure and drape, this advanced project is a true wardrobe staple for the adventurous knitter.

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | Dimension |
|---|---|
| Finished Bust (buttoned) | 58" (147.5 cm) |
| Back Width | 29" (73.5 cm) |
| Body Length (hem to underarm) | 17" (43 cm) |
| Armhole Depth | 10" (25.5 cm) |
| Total Length (hem to shoulder) | 27" (68.5 cm) |
| Sleeve Length (cuff to underarm) | 19" (48 cm) |
| Upper Arm Circumference | ~17.5" (44.5 cm) |
| Button Band Width | ~2.5" (6.5 cm) |
| Shawl Collar Width (at widest) | ~4.5" (11.5 cm) |

> **Sizing Note:** This pattern is written for a Ladies 4X, designed to fit a 52–54" (132–137 cm) bust with approximately 4–6" (10–15 cm) of positive ease for a comfortable, relaxed fit.

---

## MATERIALS

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight, approximately **2,200–2,400 yards (2,012–2,195 m)** total
  - *Suggested fiber:* 100% wool or wool-blend for best stitch definition in waffle stitch
  - *Sample shown in:* A rich heathered charcoal
- **Needles:**
  - US 8 / 5 mm straight or 32" (80 cm) circular needles (for body pieces)
  - US 6 / 4 mm straight or circular needles (for ribbing)
- **Notions:**
  - 5 buttons, 1–1.25" (25–32 mm) diameter
  - Stitch markers
  - Tapestry needle for seaming
  - Locking stitch markers or scrap yarn
  - Measuring tape
  - Row counter (recommended)

---

## GAUGE

**18 sts × 24 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in Waffle Stitch on US 8 / 5 mm needles, blocked.
**22 sts × 28 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in 2x2 Rib on US 6 / 4 mm needles, slightly stretched.

> ⚠️ **Gauge is critical.** This is a large garment; even a small gauge difference will significantly affect fit. Knit a 6" swatch, wash and block it, then measure. Adjust needle size as needed.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BO | bind off |
| CO | cast on |
| k | knit |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | knit into front and back of stitch (increase) |
| m1L | make 1 left-leaning increase |
| m1R | make 1 right-leaning increase |
| p | purl |
| pm | place marker |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side |
| sl | slip |
| ssk | slip, slip, knit slipped stitches together (left-leaning decrease) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| tbl | through back loop |
| WS | wrong side |
| wyib | with yarn in back |
| wyif | with yarn in front |
| W&T | wrap and turn (for short rows) |

---

## STITCH GUIDE

### Waffle Stitch (Flat, worked over a multiple of 3 sts + 1)

**Row 1 (RS):** K1, *k1, p1, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p1, k1.
**Row 2 (WS):** P1, *p1, k1, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1.
**Row 3 (RS):** Knit all sts.
**Row 4 (WS):** Purl all sts.

Rep Rows 1–4 for pattern.

> **Pattern Note on Waffle Stitch:** Rows 1 and 2 create the "dimple" texture; Rows 3 and 4 are the smooth "bridge" rows. The pattern is forgiving and the 4-row repeat is easy to memorize.

### 2x2 Rib (Flat, worked over a multiple of 4 sts + 2)

**Row 1 (RS):** K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS):** P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Rep Rows 1–2 for pattern.

### 2x2 Rib (Flat, worked over a multiple of 4 sts)
*(Used for button band)*

**Row 1 (RS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
**Row 2 (WS):** *K2, p2; rep from * to end. *(This is a "mistake rib" variant that looks the same on both sides — ideal for a band that will be seen from both sides.)*

> **Alternative:** You may work a standard 2x2 rib for the button band if preferred: RS: *k2, p2; rep from * to end. WS: *p2, k2; rep from * to end.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Construction:** The cardigan is worked flat in five pieces — Back, Left Front, Right Front, Left Sleeve, Right Sleeve — then seamed together. The button bands and shawl collar are picked up and worked last.

2. **Selvedge Stitches:** All pieces include a 1-stitch selvedge on each edge for seaming. These selvedge stitches are NOT included in the stated stitch pattern multiples but ARE included in all stitch counts given in the pattern. Slip the first stitch of every row purlwise with yarn in front (wyif), then bring yarn to working position; knit the last stitch of every row. This creates a neat chain selvedge for easy seaming.

   > *Correction to selvedge note:* For this pattern, work the selvedge simply as: Slip 1 st purlwise wyif at the beginning of every row, knit the last stitch of every row. This is factored into all stitch counts.

3. **Waffle Stitch Multiple:** The waffle stitch pattern requires a multiple of 3 sts + 1. The selvedge stitches (2 total, 1 each side) are worked in stockinette and sit outside the pattern repeat. So your inner stitch count (excluding selvedges) must be a multiple of 3 + 1. This is managed in the instructions below.

4. **Shaping and Pattern:** When working increases or decreases, maintain the waffle stitch pattern as best as possible. If you don't have enough stitches for a complete repeat at the edges, work those stitches in stockinette until the repeat is complete.

5. **Blocking:** Block all pieces before seaming. Waffle stitch blooms beautifully with washing and pinning, and seaming is significantly easier on blocked pieces.

6. **Yarn Yardage:** The estimated yardage is 2,200–2,400 yards. Purchase accordingly, ideally from the same dye lot. Consider purchasing an extra skein as insurance for a project of this size.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

---

### BACK

**Using US 6 / 4 mm needles, CO 134 sts.**

> *Stitch count check:* 134 sts ÷ 4 = 33.5 — For 2x2 rib on the hem, we need a multiple of 4 + 2. 134 = 4×33 + 2 ✅

**Ribbed Hem:**
Work in 2x2 Rib (multiple of 4 sts + 2) for 3" (7.5 cm), ending with a WS row.

*Setup for Waffle Stitch Transition:*
On the next RS row, work across in rib and decrease 4 sts evenly spaced as follows: Rib 17, k2tog, *rib 24, k2tog; rep from * 2 more times, rib to end. — **130 sts.**

> *Stitch count check:* 130 sts. Inner sts (excluding 2 selvedge sts) = 128 = (3×42)+2. Hmm — let's recheck: 128 ÷ 3 = 42.66. We need mult of 3 + 1 for the inner sts. 127 = 3×42+1 ✅. So total with selvedges = 129.

> **Revised:** Decrease 5 sts evenly on transition row to reach **129 sts** total. Inner sts = 127 = (3×42)+1 ✅.

*Corrected Transition Row:*
Rib 13, k2tog, *rib 23, k2tog; rep from * 3 more times (4 total decreases), rib 12, k2tog (1 more), rib to end — **129 sts.**

> *Simplified:* Decrease 5 sts evenly spaced across the transition row: approximately every 26–27 sts. 134 − 5 = **129 sts** ✅.

**Change to US 8 / 5 mm needles.**

**Body:**
Work in Waffle Stitch with 1-st selvedge on each edge (slip 1 purlwise wyif at beginning of each row, k1 at end of each row) until piece measures **17" (43 cm)** from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row.

*Waffle Stitch setup with selvedges:*
- **Row 1 (RS):** Sl 1 wyif, k1, *k1, p1, k1; rep from * to last 1 st, k1.

  > Rewriting cleanly with selvedges:
  > **Row 1 (RS):** Sl 1 wyif, work Waffle St Row 1 across center 127 sts, k1.
  > **Row 2 (WS):** Sl 1 wyif, work Waffle St Row 2 across center 127 sts, k1.
  > **Row 3 (RS):** Sl 1 wyif, knit to last st, k1.
  > **Row 4 (WS):** Sl 1 wyif, purl to last st, k1.

**Armhole Shaping:**
BO 6 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. — **117 sts.**
BO 3 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. — **111 sts.**
BO 2 sts at the beginning of the next 2 rows. — **107 sts.**
*Decrease row (RS):* Sl 1, ssk, work in pattern to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. — **105 sts.**
Rep decrease row every RS row **4 more times.** — **97 sts.**

> *Total bound off/decreased each side:* 6+3+2 = 11 BO + 5 single decreases = 16 sts each side. 129 − 32 = **97 sts** ✅.
> *Armhole depth:* 10" (25.5 cm). At 6 rows/inch = 60 rows. Shaping takes approx 14 rows (7 RS rows). Remaining even rows = 46 rows ≈ 7.7". Total ≈ 10" ✅.

Continue even in pattern until armhole measures **10" (25.5 cm)**, ending with a WS row.

**Shoulder Shaping:**

*Stitch allocation:*
- Total back neck: 31 sts
- Each shoulder: (97 − 31) ÷ 2 = 33 sts per shoulder ✅

BO 11 sts at beginning of next 6 rows (3 rows each shoulder, alternating sides), while working shoulder sts in stockinette for clean BO edges.
After 6 BO rows: 97 − 66 = **31 sts remain** for back neck.

Place 31 sts on holder for back neck.

> *Shoulder shaping detail:*
> Row 1 (RS): BO 11 sts, work to end.
> Row 2 (WS): BO 11 sts, work to end.
> Row 3 (RS): BO 11 sts, work to end.
> Row 4 (WS): BO 11 sts, work to end.
> Row 5 (RS): BO 11 sts, work to end.
> Row 6 (WS): BO 11 sts, work to end.
> 6 × 11 = 66 sts bound off. 97 − 66 = 31 sts on holder ✅.

---

### RIGHT FRONT

> **Note on Fronts:** Each front, when seamed, will measure approximately 14.25" wide. The wide button band (2.5") is added separately. The inner edge of each front (where it meets the button band) will be the straight selvedge edge.

**Using US 6 / 4 mm needles, CO 66 sts.**

> *Stitch count check for ribbing:* 66 = 4×16 + 2 ✅ (works for 2x2 rib, mult 4+2).

**Ribbed Hem:**
Work in 2x2 Rib for 3" (7.5 cm), ending with a WS row.

*Transition Row (RS):* Work in rib, decreasing 2 sts evenly spaced. — **64 sts.**

> *Stitch count check:* 64 sts total. Inner sts = 64 − 2 selvedges = 62. 62 = (3×20)+2. Need mult 3+1 = 61 inner. Adjust to 63 total.

> **Revised:** Decrease **3 sts** evenly on transition row: 66 − 3 = **63 sts.**
> Inner sts = 63 − 2 = 61 = (3×20)+1 ✅.

**Change to US 8 / 5 mm needles.**

**Body:**
Work in Waffle Stitch with selvedge sts on each edge until piece measures **17" (43 cm)** from cast-on, ending with a **WS row** (to begin armhole shaping on RS).

> *Note:* The inner (front opening) edge and the outer (side seam) edge both have selvedge stitches. The button band will be picked up from the inner edge selvedge.

**Armhole Shaping (worked at side seam edge / outer edge):**
Row 1 (RS) — Armhole edge: BO 6 sts, work to end. — **57 sts.**
Row 2 (WS): Work even.
Row 3 (RS): BO 3 sts, work to end. — **54 sts.**
Row 4 (WS): Work even.
Row 5 (RS): BO 2 sts, work to end. — **52 sts.**
Row 6 (WS): Work even.
*Decrease row (RS):* Sl 1, ssk, work to end. — **51 sts.**
Rep decrease row every RS row **4 more times.** — **47 sts.**

> *Total removed from armhole side:* 6+3+2+5 = 16 sts. 63 − 16 = **47 sts** ✅.

Continue even until armhole measures **6.5" (16.5 cm)**, ending with a **RS row** (to begin neck shaping on WS).

**Neck/Shawl Collar Shaping:**

> *The front neck is shaped gradually for the shawl collar. We'll decrease at the inner/front edge.*

*Neck edge = inner front edge (right-hand side when looking at RS of Right Front).*

Row 1 (WS) — Neck edge: BO 5 sts, work to end. — **42 sts.**
Row 2 (RS): Work even.
Row 3 (WS): BO 3 sts, work to end. — **39 sts.**
Row 4 (RS): Work even.
Row 5 (WS): BO 2 sts, work to end. — **37 sts.**
Row 6 (RS): Work even.
*Decrease row (WS):* Sl 1, p2tog, work to end. — **36 sts.**
Rep decrease row every WS row **3 more times.** — **33 sts.**

> *Total removed from neck:* 5+3+2+4 = 14 sts. 47 − 14 = **33 sts** ✅.

Continue even until armhole measures **10" (25.5 cm)**, ending with a WS row.

**Shoulder Shaping:**
Row 1 (RS): BO 11 sts, work to end. — **22 sts.**
Row 2 (WS): Work even.
Row 3 (RS): BO 11 sts, work to end. — **11 sts.**
Row 4 (WS): Work even.
Row 5 (RS): BO remaining 11 sts. — **0 sts.**

> *Shoulder check:* 3 × 11 = 33 sts bound off ✅.

---

### LEFT FRONT

Work as for Right Front, reversing all shaping:
- Armhole shaping begins on **WS rows** (BO at beginning of WS rows for armhole).
- Neck shaping begins on **RS rows** (BO at beginning of RS rows for neck).
- Decrease rows at armhole: End of RS rows (work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1).
- Decrease rows at neck: End of WS rows (work to last 3 sts, ssp, p1).

**Detailed Left Front Instructions:**

**Using US 6 / 4 mm needles, CO 66 sts.**
Work Ribbed Hem and Transition row as for Right Front. — **63 sts.**

**Change to US 8 / 5 mm needles.**
Work in Waffle Stitch with selvedges until piece measures 17" (43 cm), ending with a **RS row**.

**Armhole Shaping (outer/side seam edge, beginning on WS):**
Row 1 (WS) — Armhole edge: BO 6 sts, work to end. — **57 sts.**
Row 2 (RS): Work even.
Row 3 (WS): BO 3 sts, work to end. — **54 sts.**
Row 4 (RS): Work even.
Row 5 (WS): BO 2 sts, work to end. — **52 sts.**
Row 6 (RS): Work even.
*Decrease row (RS):* Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. — **51 sts.**
Rep decrease row every RS row **4 more times.** — **47 sts.**

Continue even until armhole measures 6.5", ending with a **WS row**.

**Neck/Shawl Collar Shaping (inner/front edge, beginning on RS):**
Row 1 (RS) — Neck edge: BO 5 sts, work to end. — **42 sts.**
Row 2 (WS): Work even.
Row 3 (RS): BO 3 sts, work to end. — **39 sts.**
Row 4 (WS): Work even.
Row 5 (RS): BO 2 sts, work to end. — **37 sts.**
Row 6 (WS): Work even.
*Decrease row (RS):* Sl 1, ssk, work to end. — **36 sts.**
Rep decrease row every RS row **3 more times.** — **33 sts.**

Continue even until armhole measures 10", ending with a RS row.

**Shoulder Shaping:**
Row 1 (WS): BO 11 sts, work to end. — **22 sts.**
Row 2 (RS): Work even.
Row 3 (WS): BO 11 sts, work to end. — **11 sts.**
Row 4 (RS): Work even.
Row 5 (WS): BO remaining 11 sts.

---

### SLEEVES (Make 2)

**Using US 6 / 4 mm needles, CO 56 sts.**

> *Stitch count check for 2x2 rib:* 56 = 4×14 ✅.
> *Cuff circumference:* 56 ÷ 4.5 sts/in (approximate for ribbing, slightly stretched) ≈ 12.4". Unstretched ≈ 10.2" (56 ÷ 5.5 sts/in for rib gauge). This fits a 4X wrist/forearm comfortably ✅.

**Ribbed Cuff:**
Work in 2x2 Rib (mult of 4 sts) for **3.5" (9 cm)**, ending with a WS row.

> *Use 2x2 rib version for sleeves:*
> Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to end.
> Row 2 (WS): *P2, k2; rep from * to end.

*Transition Row (RS):* Work across, increasing 23 sts evenly spaced (approximately every 2–3 sts): 56 + 23 = **79 sts.**

> *Stitch count check:* 79 sts total. Inner sts = 79 − 2 selvedges = 77 = (3×25)+2. Need (3×n)+1. 76 = (3×25)+1 ✅. So we want 78 total sts. Adjust increase to 22 sts: 56 + 22 = **78 sts.** Inner sts = 78 − 2 = 76 = (3×25)+1 ✅.

*Revised Transition Row:* Increase **22 sts** evenly spaced across row: approximately every 2–3 sts. — **78 sts.**

> *Practical increase instruction:* kfb approximately every 2.5 sts. A good distribution: (k1, kfb) 3 times, (k2, kfb) 10 times, (k1, kfb) 9 times — approximately. Alternatively: work (k1, m1L) evenly across; space markers every ~2–3 sts to mark increase positions before working the row.

**Change to US 8 / 5 mm needles.**

**Sleeve Body:**
Work in Waffle Stitch with 1-st selvedge on each edge for 1" (2.5 cm).

> *Beginning stitch count:* 78 sts. Target upper arm = 17.5" × 4.5 sts/in = 78.75 sts ≈ 79 sts. We already have 78 sts, so we need to increase to 79 — actually, the sleeve is already close to the target. However, the underarm will be shaped with bind-offs and decreases, so we want the widest point (before cap shaping) to be appropriate. For a 4X, a fuller sleeve is better; let's target 82 sts at upper arm.

**Sleeve Increases:**
*Increase row (RS):* Sl 1, m1L, work in pattern to last st, m1R, k1. — 2 sts increased.

Rep increase row every **10th row** (every RS 5th pass of the 4-row repeat, approximately) a total of **2 times.** — **82 sts.**

Then rep increase row every **8th row 0 times** (no more increases needed).

> *Sleeve length check:* Cuff ribbing = 3.5". Transition row adds no length. Sleeve body to underarm = 19" − 3.5" = 15.5" = 93 rows at 6 rows/inch. Increases at rows 10 and 20 (2 increases) bring sts from 78 to **82 sts**. ✅
> *Upper arm check:* 82 ÷ 4.5 sts/in = 18.2" circumference. For a 4X this is generous and appropriate ✅.

*Inner stitch count after increases:* 82 − 2 selvedge = 80 = (3×26)+2. Need (3×n)+1. This is off by 1. After the increases, add 1 more stitch on the last increase row: work m1L, work to last st, m1L, m1R, k1 — making the last increase row a +3 row instead of +2. So: 78 + 2 + 3 = **83 sts.**

> Inner sts = 83 − 2 = 81 = (3×27) ✅ (mult of 3, and 3×27+1 would be 82... let's try: 81 = 3×27 exactly, not 3n+1). Need 3n+1: 82 = 3×27+1 ✅. So 82 + 2 selvedges = **84 sts total.**

**Revised Sleeve Increases (simplified and corrected):**
- Start with 78 sts.
- Work increase row every **10th row**, **3 times** total: 78 + 6 = **84 sts.**
- Inner sts = 84 − 2 = 82 = (3×27)+1 ✅

> *Sleeve length with 3 increases at rows 10, 20, 30:* Remaining rows after row 30 = 93 − 30 = 63 rows = 10.5". This is fine as sleeve cap shaping doesn't count toward body length ✅.

Continue even until sleeve measures **19" (48 cm)** from cast-on edge (including ribbing), ending with a WS row.

**Sleeve Cap Shaping:**

> *Sleeve cap height target:* Should match armhole depth minus a small amount for ease. Armhole shaping removed 16 sts each side from back, and similarly from fronts. Sleeve cap should be approximately 7–8" (18–20 cm) tall for a set-in sleeve on a 10" armhole.

BO 6 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. — **72 sts.**
BO 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. — **66 sts.**
BO 2 sts at beginning of next 2 rows. — **62 sts.**

*Decrease row (RS):* Sl 1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. — **60 sts.**
Rep decrease row every RS row **14 more times.** — **32 sts.**
Rep decrease row every other RS row (i.e., every 4th row) **3 times.** — **26 sts.**

BO 3 sts at beginning of next 4 rows. — **14 sts.**
BO remaining **14 sts.**

> *Sleeve cap height check:*
> - Initial BOs: 6 rows
> - RS decreases every row ×15 = 30 rows
> - RS decreases every 4th row ×3 = 12 rows (but only 3 dec rows in 12 rows)
> - Final BOs: 4 rows
> - Total rows ≈ 52 rows ÷ 6 rows/in ≈ 8.7". This is slightly tall; adjust.

**Revised Sleeve Cap (simplified):**

BO 6 sts at beg of next 2 rows. — **72 sts.**
BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 rows. — **66 sts.**
BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows. — **62 sts.**
*Decrease row (RS):* Sl 1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
Rep decrease row every RS row **18 times total.** — **62 − 36 = 26 sts.**
BO 4 sts at beg of next 4 rows. — **26 − 16 = 10 sts.**
BO remaining **10 sts.**

> *Total rows:* 6 (BO rows) + 36 (decrease every RS row = 36 RS rows + 36 WS rows = 72 rows? No — 18 RS decrease rows and 18 WS plain rows = 36 rows) + 4 (final BO rows) = 46 rows total ÷ 6 = 7.7". Close to 8" ✅.
> *Sts removed:* (6+6)+(3+3)+(2+2)+36+(4×4) = 12+6+4+36+16 = **74 sts** removed. 84 − 74 = **10 sts** remaining ✅.

---

### FINISHING

**Blocking:**
Before seaming, wet block all pieces. Pin to measurements on a blocking mat and allow to dry completely. This step is essential for a professional result.

**Seaming:**

1. **Shoulder Seams:** With RS together, use mattress stitch or three-needle bind-off to join left and right shoulder seams. (Three-needle bind-off is recommended for a neat, sturdy shoulder.)

   > *For three-needle BO:* Place 33 sts from each front shoulder on separate needles. Hold together with RS facing each other. Use a third needle to k2tog (1 from each needle) and BO as you go.

2. **Sleeve Seams:** Fold each sleeve in half lengthwise. Sew the underarm seam using mattress stitch, aligning the waffle stitch rows.

3. **Set-in Sleeves:** Pin the sleeve cap into the armhole, matching the center top of the sleeve cap to the shoulder seam, and the sleeve cap bind-offs to the body armhole bind-offs. Ease any fullness evenly around the cap. Sew using mattress stitch.

4. **Side Seams:** Sew back and front side seams from the bottom hem to the underarm, using mattress stitch. Match ribbing rows carefully at the hem.

---

### BUTTON BANDS

**Right Front Band (Buttonhole Band):**

With RS facing and US 6 / 4 mm needles, pick up and knit sts along the right front opening edge.

*Pick-up rate:* Approximately 3 sts for every 4 rows along the waffle stitch section; 1 st for every row along the ribbed hem. Pick up approximately **136 sts** total (adjusting to nearest multiple of 4+2 if needed for rib).

> *Pick-up check:* Body = 17" × 6 rows/in = 102 rows → ~77 sts picked up (3:4 ratio). Armhole/neck = 10" × 6 rows/in = 60 rows → ~45 sts picked up. Total ≈ 122 sts. Adjust to **122 sts** (122 = 4×30+2 ✅).
> *Or pick up approximately 3 sts for every 4 rows for entire length; total length ≈ 27" = 162 rows → 122 sts. ✅*

**Work 2x2 Rib (mult of 4+2) for 5 rows** (ending on a WS row), placing buttonholes on Row 3.

*Row 1 (WS):* P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
*Row 2 (RS):* K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
*Row 3 (RS — Buttonhole Row):* Work in rib, placing 5 buttonholes evenly spaced.

**Buttonhole Placement:**
Total length = approximately 27" (hem to top of neck shaping, before collar).
The buttons should be placed avoiding the very top and very bottom.
- Bottom button: approximately 1.5" from cast-on hem edge.
- Top button: approximately 1.5" below the start of the neck shaping (approximately 18" from hem).
- 3 remaining buttons spaced evenly between: spacing = (18 − 1.5 − 1.5) ÷ 4 = **3.75" (about every 4")**

*In terms of stitches:* Place a marker at each buttonhole position before knitting the buttonhole row. Each buttonhole = BO 2 sts, then CO 2 sts on the following row.

*Row 3 (Buttonhole Row, RS):* Work in rib to first buttonhole marker, BO 2 sts, *rib to next marker, BO 2 sts; rep from * 3 more times, rib to end. — 5 buttonholes made ✅.
*Row 4 (WS):* Work in rib, casting on 2 sts over each set of bound-off sts using backward loop CO.
*Row 5 (RS):* Work in rib.

BO all sts loosely in rib pattern.

**Band width check:** 5 rows of 2x2 rib at approximately 6 sts/in ≈ 0.8". Hmm — this is not wide enough for a 2.5" band.

> **Revised:** Work **15 rows** for the button band to achieve approximately **2.5"** width (15 rows ÷ 6 rows/in = 2.5" ✅). Place buttonholes on **Row 7** and work Row 8 to close them. Work Rows 9–15 even. BO on Row 15.

**Revised Button Band Instructions:**

*Rows 1–6:* Work in 2x2 Rib.
*Row 7 (Buttonhole Row):* Work buttonholes as described above.
*Row 8:* Close buttonholes by CO over bound-off sts.
*Rows 9–15:* Work in 2x2 Rib.
BO all sts loosely in rib on Row 15.

**Left Front Band (Button Band):**

With RS facing and US 6 / 4 mm needles, pick up and knit **122 sts** along left front opening edge.

Work **15 rows** in 2x2 Rib (no buttonholes). BO all sts loosely in rib.

---

### SHAWL COLLAR

The shawl collar is picked up around the neckline and worked with short rows to create a graceful fold-over lapel.

> *Neckline consists of:* Back neck (31 sts on holder) + right front neck shaping + left front neck shaping. The front neck shaping removed 14 sts per side across approximately 3.5" (21 rows) of shaping.

**Setup:**

With RS facing and US 6 / 4 mm needles, beginning at the top of the Right Front button band:

1. Pick up and knit **28 sts** along the right front neck shaping edge (along the diagonal bound-off and decrease edge).
2. Knit **31 sts** from back neck holder.
3. Pick up and knit **28 sts** along the left front neck shaping edge.

**Total collar sts: 87 sts.**

> *87 sts ÷ 4 = 21.75 — for 2x2 rib on collar, need mult of 4+3 or similar. Adjust to **88 sts** (88 = 4×22 ✅) by picking up 1 extra st at beginning or end.*

Pick up **88 sts** total.

**Collar Body:**

The collar is worked in 2x2 Rib. To create the characteristic shawl collar shape (wider at the center back to stand up and fold over), work short rows.

*Short Row Section 1:*
Row 1 (RS): Work in 2x2 rib to last 8 sts, W&T.
Row 2 (WS): Work in 2x2 rib to last 8 sts, W&T.

*Short Row Section 2:*
Row 3 (RS): Work in 2x2 rib to last 14 sts (picking up wrap and working with wrapped st), W&T.
Row 4 (WS): Work in 2x2 rib to last 14 sts (picking up wrap), W&T.

*Short Row Section 3:*
Row 5 (RS): Work in 2x2 rib to last 20 sts (picking up wrap), W&T.
Row 6 (WS): Work in 2x2 rib to last 20 sts (picking up wrap), W&T.

*Full Rows:*
Row 7 (RS): Work across all 88 sts in 2x2 rib, picking up any remaining wraps.
Row 8 (WS): Work across all 88 sts.

Rep Rows 1–8 **3 more times** (4 short-row sets total), for a total of **32 rows** of collar.

> *Collar height:* 32 rows ÷ 7 rows/in (rib gauge) ≈ 4.5" wide when folded. The short rows add extra depth at center back, giving the collar approximately **4.5" at center back and 3" at the front edges** after folding. ✅

Continue working even in 2x2 rib for **8 more rows** (for the front-facing side of the collar that will be visible when the collar folds over).

BO all sts loosely in rib pattern.

**Collar Finishing:**
The lower edge of the collar (the pick-up row) is sewn to the body along the neck shaping. The collar naturally folds back on itself at approximately the 4th row of rib; the fold line is where the collar sits on the shoulder.

Lightly steam block the collar into shape. The collar should fold back gracefully to reveal the RS on both sides; since 2x2 rib looks the same on both sides, this is seamless.

---

### BUTTON ATTACHMENT

Mark button positions on the Left Front button band corresponding to the buttonholes in the Right Front band.

Sew buttons securely using a double strand of yarn or strong thread in a coordinating color. Use a small backing button on the wrong side if the fabric is particularly stretchy, to prevent buttons from pulling through.

> **Button spacing reminder:** 5 buttons, spaced approximately 4" apart, with the first and last buttons 1.5" from the top and bottom of the button band section.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
BACK
     _______________
    |               |
    |   29" wide    |
    |               |
    |  ___________  |
    | |  Back     | |
    | |  Neck     | |
    | |  31 sts   | |
    | |___________| |
    |   7.33"       |
    |_______________|
         27"
    (17" body + 10" armhole)

FRONT (each, before band)
     _________
    |         |
    | 14" wide|
    |         |
    |    /    |
    |   / neck|
    |  / shaping
    |_________|
       27"

SLEEVE
      /‾‾‾‾‾‾‾‾\
     /  cap     \
    |  shaping   |
    |            |
    |  18.7" circ|
    |            |
    |____________|
     12.4" at cuff
       19" long
```

---

## YARN USAGE ESTIMATE

| Piece | Approximate Yardage |
|---|---|
| Back | ~650 yards |
| Right Front | ~380 yards |
| Left Front | ~380 yards |
| Sleeves (×2) | ~550 yards total |
| Button Bands | ~80 yards |
| Shawl Collar | ~100 yards |
| **Total** | **~2,140 yards** |

*Purchase 2,400 yards to allow for gauge adjustments, swatch, and finishing.*

---

## TIPS FOR SUCCESS

1. **Swatch generously.** Cast on at least 30 sts and work 30 rows in Waffle Stitch for your swatch. Wash and block it exactly as you will the finished garment.

2. **Keep a row counter.** The 4-row waffle stitch repeat is easy to track, but on a large piece like this, a row counter prevents errors at the armhole and neck shaping transitions.

3. **Mark your pattern position.** Place a safety pin at the RS of each piece immediately after casting on. This eliminates confusion about which row is RS and which is WS after setting pieces down.

4. **Seam with a matching yarn.** If your yarn is textured or plied, split it for seaming or use a finer matching yarn so seams remain invisible.

5. **Shawl collar folding:** Before sewing down the collar permanently, pin it in place and try on the cardigan to assess the natural fold line. Adjust pick-up position slightly if needed.

6. **Wide button band:** The wide band (15 rows, ~2.5") is substantial. When picking up stitches, use a crochet hook to ensure even spacing. A pick-up rate of 3 sts per 4 rows works beautifully for waffle stitch edges.

---

## CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Follow the care instructions for your specific yarn. Generally for wool worsted:
- Hand wash in cool water with wool wash.
- Press out excess water gently; do not wring.
- Block flat to measurements and allow to air dry.
- Store folded, not hung, to preserve shape.

---

*Pattern designed for Ladies 4X. All shaping has been calculated specifically for this size. For other sizes, gauge calculations and stitch counts would need to be recalculated proportionally.*

---

**© 2025 — For personal use only. Please do not reproduce or sell this pattern.**