purlJam

# Wheel-Spoke Coaster

A quick, beginner-friendly circular coaster worked in the round. Twelve crisp "spokes" radiate from the centre like the wheel of a bicycle, framed by a neat solid border. Worked in sturdy worsted yarn so it lies flat and protects your favourite surfaces.

---

## Skill Level
Beginner

## Finished Size
Approximately **11 cm (4¼ in)** in diameter.
(Coasters are forgiving — a slight difference in your tension simply gives a slightly larger or smaller coaster, which is perfectly fine.)

---

## Materials
- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Aran/medium, category 4) cotton or cotton-blend recommended for absorbency and a firm fabric. Approximately **15 m (16 yds)** per coaster — a single 50 g ball makes several.
- **Hook:** **4.5 mm** crochet hook.
- **Notions:** Tapestry/yarn needle for weaving in ends; one stitch marker (optional, to mark spokes); scissors.

**Tip:** Cotton makes the best coasters — it's absorbent, washable and presses flat. A 4.5 mm hook (slightly larger than the yarn's usual recommendation) keeps the fabric supple without holes.

---

## Tension (Gauge)
16 tr and 8 rounds to 10 cm (4 in) measured over treble fabric.
Tension is **not critical** for a coaster, but a tighter, denser fabric performs best.

---

## Abbreviations (UK Terminology)
- **ch** = chain
- **dc** = double crochet (US single crochet)
- **tr** = treble (US double crochet)
- **ss** = slip stitch
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **sp** = space
- **rnd** = round
- **rep** = repeat

> **Note:** This pattern uses **UK crochet terms**. UK tr = US dc.

---

## Special Stitches
- **Beginning chain-3 (beg ch-3):** Counts as the first **tr** of the round throughout.

---

## Pattern Notes
- The coaster is worked **in the round**, **joined** at the end of each round with a slip stitch into the top of the beginning chain.
- Work into **both loops** of each stitch unless told otherwise.
- The **beg ch-3 counts as a tr** in every round. When a round ends, you slip stitch into the **top of that beg ch-3**.
- The "spoke" effect is created by **12 ch-1 spaces** in Round 4 that visually separate twelve tr segments radiating outward.
- Stitch counts are given in brackets at the end of each round.
- Start with a **magic ring** for a tight centre, or see the alternative below if you're new to it.

**Magic ring alternative (beginner-friendly):** Chain 4 and join with a ss into the first chain to form a ring. Work Round 1 stitches into the ring (the centre hole will be a little larger, which is perfectly acceptable).

---

## Instructions

**Foundation:** Make a magic ring (or ch-4 ring — see notes).

**Round 1:**
Work **ch 3** (counts as first tr), then **11 tr** into the ring.
Pull the magic ring tight.
Join with **ss** into the top of the beg ch-3.
**(12 tr)**

> ✔ *Check: 1 beg ch-3 + 11 tr = 12 sts.*

**Round 2:**
**Ch 3** (counts as first tr), **1 tr** into the same st as the join.
**2 tr** into each st around (i.e. 2 tr in each of the remaining 11 sts).
Join with **ss** into the top of the beg ch-3.
**(24 tr)**

> ✔ *Check: 12 sts × 2 tr each = 24 sts.*

**Round 3:**
**Ch 3** (counts as first tr), **1 tr** into the same st as the join.
*\*1 tr in next st, 2 tr in next st\* ; rep from \* to \* around* — ending with 1 tr in the last st.
Join with **ss** into the top of the beg ch-3.
**(36 tr)**

> ✔ *Check: Increase of 12 over the round (24 + 12 = 36). The "2 tr, 1 tr" pattern repeats 12 times.*

**Round 4 (Spoke Round):**
**Ch 3** (counts as first tr), **2 tr** into the next 2 sts (3 tr total so far for this segment), then **ch 1, skip 0 sts**… *work as follows for the cleanest spokes:*

*\*Work 3 tr, then ch 1\* ; rep from \* to \* around — twelve segments of 3 tr separated by twelve ch-1 spaces.*

To work it stitch-by-stitch: ch 3 (= 1st tr), 1 tr in each of next 2 sts, **ch 1**, then *3 tr in next 3 sts, ch 1*; repeat from * around (11 more times).
Join with **ss** into the top of the beg ch-3.
**(36 tr + 12 ch-1 sps)**

> ✔ *Check: 36 tr ÷ 3 = 12 spoke segments; 12 ch-1 spaces sit between them, creating the radiating "spokes" of the wheel.*

**Round 5 (Border):**
**Ch 1** (does NOT count as a stitch), then **1 dc into each tr and 1 dc into each ch-1 sp** around.
Join with **ss** into the first dc.
**(36 dc + 12 dc = 48 dc)**

> ✔ *Check: 36 dc into the trebles + 12 dc into the ch-1 spaces = 48 dc border. This frames the spokes neatly and keeps the edge firm and flat.*

**Fasten off**, leaving a 15 cm (6 in) tail.

---

## Finishing
1. **Weave in all ends:** Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle and weave through the back of several stitches, then trim. Do the same with the starting tail at the centre.
2. **Block (recommended for cotton):** Lightly dampen the coaster, pat it into a flat circle with the spokes evenly spaced, and leave to dry on a towel. This sharpens the spoke definition and ensures it lies completely flat.
3. **Optional:** Make a set of 4–6 in matching or contrasting colours.

---

## Quick Reference — Stitch Counts
| Round | Stitches |
|-------|----------|
| 1 | 12 tr |
| 2 | 24 tr |
| 3 | 36 tr |
| 4 | 36 tr + 12 ch-1 sps |
| 5 | 48 dc |

**Spokes:** 12 radiating segments, established in Round 4 and framed by the Round 5 border.

Enjoy your wheel-spoke coaster! ☕