PurlJam Beanie—Knit and Crochet Pattern
Versatile, unisex beanie you can knit or crochet. Includes fitted and slouch options, folded or single-layer brim, and simple finishing. Skill: Easy—intermediate. Finished for wearable gifting or quick makes.
Yarn and Yardage
- Suggested yarn: Worsted weight / Aran (Category 4, 8 ply). Typical sample ball: 100 g = 200 yd / 183 m. (Use any worsted/aran with similar gauge.)
- Approximate yardage required (adjust for slouch or pompom): newborn 40–60 yd (37–55 m); baby 60–80 yd (55–70 m); child 80‐0 yd (73‐92 m); teen 100–120 yd (92–110 m); adult S/M 120–150 yd (110–137 m); adult L/XL 150–200 yd (137–183 m).
Needles and Hooks
Knitting needles (use circulars or DPNs / magic loop): Recommended: US 8 (5.0 mm) for body; go down one size for rib and finishing (US 7 / 4.5 mm). Conversions (approximate):
- US 7 = 4.5 mm = UK (old) 6
- US 8 = 5.0 mm = UK (old) 5
- US 9 = 5.5 mm = UK (old) 4
Alternative sizes to adjust gauge: US 6 (4.0 mm) / UK (old) 7; US 10 (6.0 mm) / UK (old) 3. Use the metric (mm) to choose the best fit for your yarn and tension.
Crochet hook: US I-9 / 5.5 mm (works well for worsted). Equivalent UK hook size: 5.5 mm (no quoted UK old label used). If you prefer a firmer fabric, go down one hook size.
Gauge (blocked)
Knitting: 18 sts x 24 rows = 4 in / 10 cm in Stockinette on US 8 / 5.0 mm. Adjust needles if necessary.
Crochet: 14 dc x 8 rows = 4 in / 10 cm using US I-9 / 5.5 mm (dc = US double crochet). Adjust hook for gauge.
Sizes and Finished Measurements
Choose the size based on head circumference. The hat will fit close to measurements below; add 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm ease for relaxed fit.
- Newborn: 13 in / 33 cm circumference
- Baby: 15 in / 38 cm
- Child: 18 in / 46 cm
- Teen: 20 in / 51 cm
- Adult S/M: 21 in / 53 cm
- Adult L/XL: 23 in / 58 cm
Cast-on / Starting Stitches (knit)
Recommended cast-on counts using our gauge (rounded to nearest multiple of 4 for ribbing):
- Newborn: 60 sts
- Baby: 68 sts
- Child: 80 sts
- Teen: 92 sts
- Adult S/M: 96 sts
- Adult L/XL: 104 sts
Abbreviations (knitting)
- CO = cast on
- K = knit
- P = purl
- K2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
- SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- PM = place marker
- SM = slip marker
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
Abbreviations (crochet)
- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet (US)
- hdc = half double crochet (US)
- dc = double crochet (US)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- sl st = slip stitch
Knitting Instructions
Notes: Work in the round. Use circular needles (16–24 in / 40–60 cm cable) or magic loop for larger sizes. For small circumferences, use DPNs.
Brim
Option A: Folded brim (recommended for warmth)
- CO specified number of stitches using a stretchy cast-on (long-tail or German twisted).
- Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. PM to mark beginning of round.
- Work K2, P2 rib for 2 in / 5 cm (or 1.25 in / 3 cm for smaller brim) or until desired brim depth.
- Fold brim to inside and hold while continuing to body (or graft if you prefer a seamless join).
Option B: Single-layer rib brim
- CO and work K2, P2 rib for 1–2 in / 2.5–5 cm depending on desired look.
Body
- Change to needle one size larger (if you used a smaller needle for brim), then work in Stockinette (knit every round) until hat measures from cast-on edge to top as follows: newborn 4.5 in / 11.5 cm; baby 5.5 in / 14 cm; child 6.5 in / 16.5 cm; teen 7.5 in / 19 cm; adult S/M 8 in / 20.5 cm; adult L/XL 8.5 in / 21.5 cm. Adjust shorter for a deep brim or longer for slouch.
Crown shaping (simple, works for all cast-on counts)
This method halves the stitch count each decrease round and is forgiving across stitch counts. It gives a slightly gathered top and is fast.
- Switch to needles one size smaller again (optional) for a firmer crown.
- Decrease round 1: *K2tog* across. (If there is an odd stitch left, K1 at the end.)
- Knit one round plain.
- Decrease round 2: *K2tog* across. (You should now have roughly 8–32 sts depending on starting count.)
- Knit one round plain if you want a few rows before final gather; otherwise proceed to finish.
- Cut yarn leaving a 10–20 in / 25–50 cm tail. Thread tail through tapestry needle, run through remaining live stitches, pull tight to close top, weave in tail securely into inside of hat.
Optional: For a neater top, when 8–12 sts remain, work k2tog across until 4 sts remain, then use Kitchener stitch or gather and secure.
Finishing
- If you made a folded brim, fold and sew brim to inside by mattress stitch, or leave unfolded for a cuffed look.
- Weave in ends, block gently to shape.
- Add pompom as desired.
Crochet Instructions (US terms)
Worked in continuous rounds. This example uses dc (US) and a magic ring start. Increase rounds are given; stop increasing when your stitch count roughly matches the knitted cast-on circumference in stitches (see notes below).
Magic ring start (recommended)
- Make a magic ring, ch 2 (counts as first dc unless you prefer otherwise), work 10 dc into ring. Join with sl st to top of first dc or leave joined invisible and work continuous rounds with a stitch marker.
Increase rounds (example set for worsted; follow until you reach target circumference)
- Round 2: 2 dc in each st around (20 dc total).
- Round 3: *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st* repeat around (30 dc).
- Round 4: *1 dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat (40 dc).
- Round 5: *1 dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st* repeat (50 dc).
- Continue increasing in this manner, adding 1 more single dc between increases on each round until your round count gives a circumference equal to your target measurement. As a quick guide, for adult S/M you will typically stop increasing around 9–10 rounds (st count roughly 80–100 dc depending on tension).
Body
- After increases finish, work even rounds of dc until hat measures same lengths as knit pattern (see Body measurements above) from the cast-on edge.
Top shaping (gather method)
- Once length is met, decrease by working *dc2tog* across a round (dc2tog = yarn over, insert in next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through all loops) to reduce stitches. Work one even round if desired, and repeat decrease round until 8–12 sts remain.
- Cut yarn leaving long tail, thread to needle, run through remaining stitches and pull tight. Secure and weave in end.
Note: UK crochet terms differ: US dc = UK tr; US hdc = UK htr; US sc = UK dc.
Modifications
- Slouchy: Add 1–5 extra inches / 2.5–12.5 cm to body length before starting crown shaping.
- Tight-fitting beanie: Use one needle size smaller for the body or reduce cast-on by 2–4 sts depending on tension.
- Textured brim: Use twisted rib (k1tbl, p1) or seed stitch for the brim for visual interest.
- Earflaps: Work to desired depth then pick up stitches and shape flaps by decreasing every other row.
Notes and Tips
- If your gauge differs from the pattern gauge, calculate cast-on sts by multiplying desired finished circumference (in inches) by your stitches-per-inch and round to a multiple of 4 for the rib pattern.
- When joining in the round, place a removable marker and check the first round to avoid a twist before continuing.
- To make a pompom that looks proportional: newborn 2–3 in / 5–7.5 cm, baby 3–4 in / 7.5–10 cm, adult 4–5 in / 10–13 cm.
Troubleshooting
- If brim is too large: try a firmer cast-on or go down one needle size for the rib.
- If hat hangs too loose at crown: shorten body by 0.5–1 in / 1.25–2.5 cm or use a smaller needle for crown decreases.
Gauge Swatch
Always knit or crochet a 4 in / 10 cm square in the stitch you plan to use, block it if you will block the hat, then measure to confirm gauge.
Copyright and Support
This pattern is provided by PurlJam. For support email team@verde.uk. Visit https://purljam.verde.uk for more patterns and tutorials. Share your makes with #purljam on social media.
Happy stitching!