Knit-flat Fairy Dress Set for 19cm Silicone Doll (Chest 15cm)

Fits a 19cm/7.5in silicone doll with chest circumference 15cm/5.9in. Set includes: fairy dress (bodice + flared skirt) worked flat, elf shoes (seam), an upside-down-flower hat and a short ballet-style cardigan. Designed to be knitted flat and seamed; minimal sewing. Finished to fit snugly but with small seam allowances for silicone bodies.

Materials

• Yarn: Fingering / 4-ply (soft non-stretch yarn recommended for silicone skin). Quantities (approx): total 35–40g recommended. Breakdown: Dress body 10g (0.35oz) — ca 10m/11yd, Skirt & frill 5–8g, Hat 6g, Shoes 3–5g, Cardigan 8g. Imperial & Metric: use one 25g mini skein (110yd/100m) plus scraps or a 50g (1.8oz) skein with 200–240m (220‒260yd) for multiple colours.
• Needles (knit flat): recommended US 2 (2.75mm) / UK old 12 / 2.75mm. Alternatives: US 1–3 (2.25–3.25mm) / UK 13–11. Use size that gives gauge below.
• Notions: small tapestry needle, 2–4 tiny buttons (3–5mm) or snaps, scrap of narrow elastic or very short ribbon for shoes/hat ties (silicone-safe), stitch marker or scrap yarn, pins, small amount of stuffing for tiny shoe toes if you like.

Gauge

28 sts x 36 rows = 10cm (4in) in stockinette on 2.75mm needles. (If your gauge is tighter, use larger needles; if looser, smaller needles.)

Finished measurements

• Chest circumference at bust: 15cm / 5.9in (fits given doll)
• Dress length (shoulder to hem, as written): approx 11cm / 4.3in (bodice 4cm/1.6in + skirt 7cm/2.7in). Adjust lengths in notes.
• Shoes: sole length 2.5cm / 1in; Hat height 5cm/2in; Cardigan length 6cm/2.4in.

Abbreviations

• K = knit
• P = purl
• K2tog = knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
• SSK = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• YO = yarn over
• CO = cast on
• BO = bind off
• St(s) = stitch(es)
• RS = right side; WS = wrong side
• pm = place marker; sm = slip marker

Notes

• Pattern is written flat (back and front panels worked separately). When instructions say "work to X rows" you can substitute measurements: measure against the doll.
• Seaming: mattress stitch for side seams; use invisible seam to minimize bulk on silicone dolls.
• For closures on silicone dolls we recommend small snaps, tiny buttons glued to button loops, or very short elastic loops rather than long ribbons which can catch. Avoid glue on silicone; use threads and snaps.
• If using a slightly thicker yarn/needle combination, reduce sts proportionally to match chest circumference (Target = 42 sts round at bust; worked as 21 sts per front/back when knitting flat).

Core stitch math

Target chest circumference 15cm. With gauge 28 sts = 10cm => 2.8 sts/cm. 15cm x 2.8 = 42 sts total. Worked flat as back 21 sts + front 21 sts.

Fairy Dress - Bodice (worked flat, back then front)

Back

1. CO 21 sts. (Long-tail CO recommended for neat edge.)
2. Work 6 rows 1x1 rib (K1,P1) starting RS: (Row 1 RS) *K1,P1 to end; Row 2 WS purl back. Repeat for 6 rows. This creates a stretchy hem/bodice edge.
3. Change to stockinette (RS: K, WS: P). Work straight until piece measures 4cm / 1.6in from cast-on edge (this is the bodice height to underarm). Keep count of rows (approx 14–16 rows depending on gauge).
4. Armhole shaping: On RS row next, work 1st armhole edge: BO 2 sts at beginning of next RS row, K to end. (You may optionally BO 1 then 1 next RS if you prefer slightly less abrupt shaping.) On WS row, Purl across, then on next RS BO 2 sts at beginning again if you used 1+1 guideline. After BO you will have 17 sts. Continue in stockinette for 3 rows to stabilize (approx 1cm); these shape the top of the back.
5. Shoulder/neck: Continue straight until armhole depth measures ~1.5cm from where you BO’d (this keeps back as a shallow curve). Place a marker at center back if you want to match with front later.
6. BO remaining sts loosely when back piece reaches same vertical measurement as front will later (we will match lengths). Leave for seaming.

Front

1. CO 21 sts. Work 6 rows 1x1 rib as for back.
2. Work in stockinette for 2.5cm / 1in (this gives a modest neckline depth) OR until same length as back to underarm (4cm from CO). Stop on RS row.
3. Neck shaping: Work to center 7 sts, turn, and work back and forth over center 7 sts to create a small neckline step OR if you prefer a rounder neckline, do: K10, turn; work short rows 2 times across center area decreasing the worked stitches by 1 each short row to form a shallow curve. (For a simple option: place marker at center and leave center 3 sts unworked and shape shoulders by decreasing 1 st at each shoulder edge on RS rows twice.)
4. Armhole shaping: Match the back and BO 2 sts at each armhole edge on RS rows as you did for back. Continue until front and back same length at shoulder; BO remaining sts.

Skirt (worked as one rectangle, gathered or flared)

1. Pick up stitches around the lower edge of bodice: pick up 42 sts evenly (21 front + 21 back edge), or CO 42 sts on needle and seam to bodice later. If you prefer a fuller skirt, CO/pick-up 56 sts (1.33x fullness).
2. Skirt pattern: Work in stockinette for 2 rows then start flared motif: *Row 1 (RS): K across; Row 2 (WS): P across. Row 3 (RS): K, YO, K2tog repeat to last st, K (this creates periodic increases and eyelets). Row 4: Purl.* Repeat these 4 rows until skirt measures 7cm / 2.7in from pick-up edge (approx 24 rows). For a ruffled hem, alternate a row of increases (K, YO, K) every 4th row giving more fullness.
3. Finish with 6 rows 1x1 rib for lightweight edging OR knit 4 rows garter stitch for a neat edge. BO loosely in rib pattern (K1,P1) if you used rib.

Assembly - Dress

1. Block very lightly if yarn allows (silicone-safe materials: do not soak doll; block gently on towel). Seams: With RS sides facing, seam shoulders using mattress stitch or whipstitch very lightly. Seam side seams leaving arm openings clear.
2. Weave in ends. If you CO’d skirt separately, sew skirt to bodice lower edge with small running stitch, distributing fullness evenly. Alternatively pick-up/knit method avoids sewing.
3. Finishing: For a secure closure at back, add 2 tiny buttons or snaps. Alternatively leave dress pull-on if elastic enough over head. If silicone is very slick, consider adding a tiny bit of double-sided tape or a very small elastic waist tether to keep dress seated.

Elf Shoes (pair) - knitted flat and seamed

These are tiny, shaped, and seamed. Work each shoe flat; seam sole and back.

1. CO 18 sts.
2. Row 1 (RS): K across. Row 2: P across. Repeat 4 rows garter-like for cuff (or 1x1 rib for elasticity) for 6 rows to make ankle cuff.
3. Shape toe: Row 1 (RS): K6, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K? (work evenly to end) leaving decreases at toe center. Row 2: Purl. Repeat these 2 rows until 10 sts remain (approx 4–6 decrease rounds). Cut yarn leaving 15cm tail and thread through remaining sts; pull tight to close toe. Fasten off.
4. Sole: Fold shoe so toe is closed and seam sole with mattress stitch lengthwise, leaving top open enough for foot. If desired, add a single crochet (or small whipstitch) edging around top to make a smoother entry.
5. Optional strap: CO 8 sts, work I-cord for 12 rows (or 2mm crochet chain), sew across instep and attach a tiny button or sew strap into place. For safety with silicone dolls, use a stitch or a very small bit of elastic rather than long straps.

Upside-down Flower Hat (hat made as narrow cone + petal flounce)

This hat is worked from crown down. The finished hat sits like an inverted flower over the doll’s head so petals flare downwards.

1. CO 30 sts. Work 6 rows 1x1 rib (K1,P1) for the brim (this will be the top rim once turned).
2. Switch to stockinette and decrease crown: Work in pairs of decrease rounds: RS rows K across; next RS row K6, K2tog repeat across (5 decreases) leaving about 25 sts. Continue decreasing every 4th RS row until approx 8–10 sts remain. Break yarn, thread tail through remaining sts and pull to close top. This forms a narrow cone that will be inverted over the head.
3. Petal flounce: Reattach yarn at brim edge and pick up 30–36 sts evenly along the wide (brim) edge. Work 1 row K, next row *K, YO, K* repeat to end (increasing by approx 30% giving petals). Work 2 more rows stockinette. BO loosely. To make distinct petals, on BO row alternate BO 3, leave 3, BO 3, leave 3, etc., and then fold the unbound 3-st sections back and stitch lightly to form petal points; steam-shape carefully if yarn allows (avoid adhesives or heat on silicone).
4. Turn cone inside out so brim edge becomes inner headband and petals sit upside-down over the doll’s head. Adjust petal shape by hand sewing small tucks if needed.

Ballet Cardigan (short, open-front)

Worked flat as 3 pieces: Back and 2 fronts. Very small cardigan with narrow rib band and optional tiny buttons.

Back

1. CO 26 sts. Work 8 rows 1x1 rib.
2. Switch to stockinette and work until piece measures 3.2cm / 1.25in from cast-on (this will be the back length to underarm). Then begin armhole: BO 2 sts at each side on the next RS row (24 then 22 sts depending on technique). Continue straight for 1.2cm / 0.5in and then BO remaining shoulders evenly to match front width.

Fronts (make 2)

1. CO 14 sts. Work 8 rows 1x1 rib. Work stockinette until piece length equals back to underarm. Shape armhole by BO 2 sts at outer edge once. For neckline, when front pieces reach desired length (around 4.5–5cm from CO), BO 2 sts at inner edge on RS rows to create a shallow front curve; shape until shoulder widths match back.

Sleeves (optional short cap)

1. CO 18 sts. Work 6 rows 1x1 rib. Increase 1 st each end every 4 rows twice to form a tiny cap (22 sts). Work 4 rows stockinette and BO. Seam sleeve sides and sew into armholes with minimal bulk.

Finishing Cardigan

1. Seam shoulders and sides with mattress stitch. Attach sleeves if used. Create front bands by picking up stitches along front edges (pick up about 20–24 sts per front depending on distribution) and work 6 rows 1x1 rib, BO loosely. Sew on 1–2 tiny buttons and make matching small loops or use snaps.

Finishing & Tips

• Weave in all ends and press gently if yarn allows. Avoid strong heat on yarn that will contact silicone. Use steam shaping minimally and from a distance.
• Sizing adjustments: For a tighter fit, reduce initial cast-on by 2–4 sts (1–2 per panel). For fuller skirts, increase picked up stitches for skirt to 56 or CO extra sts.
• Colorwork: keep colour joins neat; use duplicate stitch for small motifs to avoid extra bulk.
• Safety: Use tiny snaps or sewn-on buttons instead of long ties. Avoid glue on silicone surfaces; use thread or snaps for attachment.

Troubleshooting

• If neck sits too loose: pick up one less stitch at shoulder seam or seam shoulders slightly narrower.
• If skirt is too tight: add a panel of YO increases or pick up more stitches when attaching skirt.
• Shoes slipping: add a short sewn elastic across the instep behind a decorative button for hold.

Customization Ideas

• Add embroidered vines, seed-bead "dew" (sewn on), tiny pom-pom centers for petals.
• Make hat petals in contrasting colors, or stitch bead centres to mimic a flower stamen.
• Make tulle underskirt by sewing a small gathered strip of netting to inside of skirt hem for extra fairy volume.

Contact & Credits

Pattern by PurlJam for personal use. For support or questions: team@verde.uk. More patterns and updates: https://purljam.verde.uk. Share finished projects with tag #purljam.

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