Fairy Dress Set for 19cm Silicone Doll (Chest 15cm)

Detailed flat-knit pattern with step-by-step, row-by-row instructions for: dress, elf shoes, upside-down-flower hat, and ballet cardigan. Designed to fit a 19cm (7.5") doll with chest circumference 15cm (5.9"). Includes finishing and simple ASCII illustrations to guide shaping. Gauge and final stitch counts are given so you can adjust for your yarn/needle tension.

Yarn + Notions

Yarn: Fingering / 4-ply (recommended: soft baby/sock yarn). Approximate required: Dress 25g (approx 100yd / 91m), Hat 5g (approx 20yd / 18m), Shoes 5g (20yd / 18m), Cardigan 10g (40yd / 36m). (Weights shown in Metric and Imperial.)
Needles: Straight needles, knit flat: US 2 (UK 12) = 2.75 mm; US 3 (UK 11) = 3.25 mm; US 4 (UK 8) = 3.5 mm. Recommended: 3.25 mm (US 3 / UK 11) for main fabric; use 2.75 mm (US 2 / UK 12) for finer ribbing or if your gauge is loose. (Metric sizes included.)
Other: Tapestry needle, small buttons (2) or snaps for cardigan, stitch marker, scrap yarn, small amount of stuffing or thread for shoe soles if desired.

Finished Measurements

Chest circumference: 15 cm (5.9")
Dress length (hem to shoulder): ~9.5–10 cm (3.7–3.9") — adjustable in pattern rows

Gauge

28 sts = 10 cm (4") in stockinette on 3.25 mm (US 3 / UK 11). 36 rows = 10 cm (4") (adjust needle size to achieve gauge). Every pattern stitch count below depends on this gauge. If your gauge differs, recalc stitches: stitches_needed = (circumference_cm * gauge_st_per_10cm) / 10.

Abbreviations

K = knit
P = purl
K2tog = knit 2 together
P2tog = purl 2 together
YO = yarn over
CO = cast on
BO = bind off
RS = right side
WS = wrong side

General notes

Work flat, unless noted. Dress is made as two pieces (back + front) and sewn at shoulders and sides.
Row counts are exact as written for the stated gauge; check gauge before beginning.
When pattern says "work even X rows," follow that exact number of rows.

Dress (sleeveless fairy tunic)

Pattern makes a lightweight sleeveless dress that fastens at the shoulders with a tiny snap or is sewn closed. Make back and front separately; both start the same at the hem.

Back (row-by-row)

Using 3.25 mm (US 3) needles and fingering yarn.

Cast on 21 sts.
Row 1 (RS): *K1, P1; rep to end. (rib)

Rib 6 rows total (Rows 1–6).

Row 7 (RS): K all sts (Start stockinette)
Rows 8–28: Repeat Row 7. (Work 22 rows stockinette = approx 6 cm from hem)
Row 29 (RS): BO 2 sts, K to end. (19 sts)
Row 30 (WS): P to last 2 sts, BO 2 sts. (17 sts remain)
Rows 31–40 (RS/WS cont): Work even in stockinette for 10 rows. (Keep 17 sts)
Row 41 (RS): BO all sts. Finish back piece.

Front (row-by-row)

Cast on 21 sts.
Rows 1–6: Work K1, P1 rib (same as back)
Rows 7–28: Work even in stockinette for 22 rows (same length as back to armhole)
Row 29 (RS): Shape neckline: K9, BO 3 sts (center neck), K to end. (18 sts on row end)
Row 30 (WS): P to end.
Now work each shoulder separately for neckline shaping:
Left shoulder (work on left 9 sts):
Row 31 (RS): K9.
Row 32 (WS): P9.
Row 33 (RS): K2tog, K remaining 7. (Totals 8)
Row 34 (WS): P8.
Row 35 (RS): BO 8 sts.
Right shoulder (rejoin at pick up remaining right 9 sts remaining as worked earlier; mirror rows):
Return to the 9 sts after the BO3; work same rows mirrored: Rows 31–35 mirrored on right shoulder.
Break yarn and finish front piece.

Notes: The center of the neck BO 3 creates a gentle shallow neckline—if you prefer a deeper neck, BO 5 instead, and reduce shoulder sts accordingly.

Finishing Dress

Block pieces lightly to dimensions. Place RS together and seam shoulders using mattress stitch. Front/back seam should yield chest circumference approx 15 cm.
Seam sides: from hem up to Row 28 (armhole), leaving the arm opening from Row 29–41 unseamed (approx 2 cm opening). For a sleeveless look, seam up to underarm and stop.
Neck and armhole finishing: pick up 40–44 sts evenly around neck on 2.75 mm needles and work K1,P1 rib for 6 rows; BO in pattern. For armholes, pick up 20–22 sts each and K1,P1 rib for 4 rows; BO to finish. Alternatively, single crochet edge with a crochet hook.
Optional: sew tiny snap at shoulders or tack shoulder seams closed.

Elf Shoes (pair)

Simple flat-turned shoes shaped and seamed, made as two identical pieces per shoe and seamed to form slipper.

Using 3.25 mm needles.
Cast on 12 sts.
Row 1 (RS): K all sts.
Row 2 (WS): P all sts.
Rows 3–6: Repeat Rows 1–2 (3 garter ridges — shoe sole thickness)
Row 7 (RS): K4, K2tog, K4, K2tog. (10 sts)
Row 8 (WS): P all.
Row 9 (RS): K3, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K3. (8 sts)
Row10 (WS): P all.
Row11 (RS): K2, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K2. (6 sts)
Row12 (WS): P all.
Row13 (RS): K all 6.
Row14 (WS): P all.
Row15 (RS): BO all 6.
Make 2 pieces per shoe. Fold each piece in half lengthwise (RS together) and seam with mattress stitch leaving top opening for foot. Lightly curve toe by sewing small tuck across toe and closing seam flat. Weave yarn tail to make a little pom-pom or point at toe if desired.

Assembly: Slip the shoe onto the doll’s foot and sew a few invisible stitches at heel to secure, or glue a thin strip of felt inside the sole for grip.

Upside-down Flower Hat (flower petals hanging down)

Concept: knit a small circular crown, then knit petal-shaped segments that flare out when hat is turned upside down giving a flower look.

Use 3.25 mm needles. Work flat and seam into a circle.
Cast on 48 sts.
Row1 (RS): K all sts.
Row2 (WS): P all sts.
Rows3–8: Repeat Rows1–2 (work 6 rows garter for headband - gives some stretch)
Row9 (RS): K across.
Row10 (WS): P across.
Now shape crown (decrease evenly over following rows):
Row11 (RS): *K6, K2tog; rep from * to end. (42 sts)
Row12: P all.
Row13: *K5, K2tog; rep. (36 sts)
Row14: P all.
Row15: *K4, K2tog; rep. (30 sts)
Row16: P all.
Row17: *K3, K2tog; rep. (24 sts)
Row18: P all.
Row19: *K2, K2tog; rep. (18 sts)
Row20: P all.
Row21: *K1, K2tog; rep. (12 sts)
Row22: P all.
Row23: *K2tog across. (6 sts)
Row24: BO remaining 6 sts.
Seam crown into a small cap. Break yarn.
Make petals: You will make 6 petals; each petal: pick up about 6–8 sts along the cast-on (headband) edge in each segment and knit a triangular petal flat.
Petal pattern (make 6):
CO 6 sts.
Row1 (RS): K across.
Row2 (WS): P across.
Row3 (RS): K, Kfb, K to last st, Kfb, K. (increase 2) (8 sts)
Row4 (WS): P across.
Row5 (RS): K, Kfb, K to last st, Kfb, K. (10 sts)
Rows6–10: work even in stockinette for 5 rows.
Row11 (RS): K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. (8 sts)
Row12 (WS): P across.
Row13 (RS): K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. (6 sts)
Row14 (WS): P across.
Row15 (RS): K2tog across (3 sts) - BO.
Sew each petal to the crown headband evenly spaced with the RS of petals facing out; when hat is placed onto the doll upside down the petals will drape down like a flower. Add small bead or pom-pom at center if desired.

Ballet Cardigan (short, open-front)

Simple cropped cardigan with tiny buttons; knitted flat as back + two fronts.

Back

Using 3.25 mm needles.
Cast on 30 sts.
Row1 (RS): K1, P1 rib across.
Rows1–6: Repeat rib (6 rows)
Row7 (RS): K allsts.
Rows8–20: Work stockinette for 13 rows (this gives cardigan length from hem to underarm ~3.6 cm)
Row21 (RS): BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows for armholes. (26 sts remain)
Rows22–28: Work even in stockinette for 7 rows.
Row29: BO all sts (or shape shoulders for a tiny finish: BO 6, BO 14, BO 6). Simple BO across is fine for this scale.

Left Front

Cast on 16 sts.
Rows1–6: K1,P1 rib.
Rows7–20: Work stockinette for same number of rows as back to armhole.
Row21 (RS): BO 2 sts at armhole edge (right edge when working) so the front mirrors the back shoulder depth; continue even 6 rows.
Neck edge: On RS, work a small button band: after finishing body, pick up the 1st 10 sts along front edge and work 4 rows of garter (K every row) to create a neat band; BO. Sew tiny button at the top to match buttonhole on right front if desired.

Right Front (mirror)

Cast on 16 sts and work mirror shaping; leave a small 2-st buttonhole on the band: when you reach the band row, K4, cast off 2, K remaining; on next row CO2 over cast-off stitches to reform band and continue.

Finishing Cardigan

Seam shoulders with mattress stitch. Seam side seams approx 2 cm from hem upward, leaving the bottom open so cardigan is cropped.
Sew button(s) and make small corresponding buttonholes on band if not worked in place.

Step-by-step finishing and assembly

Weave in all ends carefully with tapestry needle.
Block pieces very lightly on a towel to the doll measurements — silicone dolls do not need heavy blocking; you want edges tidy.
Seam pieces as described. Use small, even mattress stitch for invisible joins.
Try garments on the doll as you go; adjust if you need tighter fit by taking in side seams or adding a small dart.

Illustrations (ASCII help diagrams)

Dress shaping schematic (flat piece):

Hem edge: --------------------- (21 sts)
Rib 6 rows
|                          |
|      Stockinette         |   22 rows
|                          |
Bind off 2 sts at each arm edge -> narrower top
Neck BO center 3 sts on front -> shoulders worked separately

Hat crown decrease layout:

Cast-on headband (48 sts)
Reduce evenly: 48 -> 42 -> 36 -> 30 -> 24 -> 18 -> 12 -> 6 -> BO
Sew 6 petals evenly around band

Shoes assembly (flat to 3D):

Flat piece -> fold -> seam sides -> sew small toe tuck -> slip onto foot

Sizing adjustments

If your gauge is different, recalc cast-on as: TotalStitches = round( (Chest_cm * Gauge_st_per_10cm) / 10 ). Divide by 2 for each half (front/back). Use same row density (rows per cm) to compute lengths.

Troubleshooting

If dress is too tight: go up one needle size or add 2 sts per half piece.
If armholes gape: pick up extra sts for armhole rib or add small 1cm seam allowance when seaming sides.

Copyright + contact

Pattern by PurlJam. For support or questions: https://purljam.verde.uk or email team@verde.uk. Share finished makes with socials: #purljam

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