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purlJam

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Top-Down Seamless Raglan Sweater — Body in One Color (MC), Sleeves in Another (CC)

A versatile, top-down raglan worked seamlessly in the round. The body is worked in Main Color (MC) and both sleeves are worked in Contrast Color (CC). Instructions are written for five adult sizes and include clear formulas so you can adjust fit. Gauge, needles and yarn information are given in US, UK (old) and metric references.

Finished measurements (approx, includes 2" positive ease)

Yarn

Needles & Notions

Gauge

20 sts = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on US 7 (4.5 mm) after blocking. Always swatch and block to match gauge.

Abbreviations

Notes & Strategy

Starting numbers and sample math (gauge 5 sts/inch = 20 sts/4")

We give a recommended provisional cast-on and the sample number of raglan increase rounds (R) to reach each finished chest. Increase rounds are the count of increase rounds (each increases 8 sts). To work them you’ll knit an increase round then a plain round; that pair repeats R times.

Desired chest in stitches = finished chest (inches) × 5 sts/inch. Calculate R = (desired_chest_sts - (cast_on ÷ 2)) ÷ 4. That yields the number of increase rounds (each increase-round adds 8 sts total).

Example calculated R and sleeve counts at separation

Note: those sleeve stitch counts are what you will set aside at the underarm. After separation the body sts equal the desired chest stitches. The sleeves will be worked later and decreased to a comfortable wrist circumference.

Pattern — Top-Down Raglan

1) Neck

  1. Using MC and your preferred provisional or stretchy cast-on, CO: S 56, M 64, L 72, XL 80, 2X 88 sts. Place marker and join carefully to work in the round, making sure the CO isn't twisted.
  2. Knit 1x1 rib (k1, p1) or 2x2 rib (k2, p2) around for 1" / 2.5 cm for a light roll, or 1.25" / 3 cm for a firmer neck. If you used provisional CO, you will graft later to tidy the cast-on if you like; alternately fold and stitch down for a bound neck.
  3. Switch to stockinette in MC after ribbing and begin raglan set-up: place 4 markers to divide the yoke into Back, Sleeve 1, Front, Sleeve 2. Typical arrangement after ribbing: work first section, place marker, work next section, place marker, etc.

2) Yoke raglan increases (MC)

Pattern for raglan increase rounds (worked every other round):

  1. Increase round (worked RS): *Work to 1 st before raglan marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1* — repeat at each raglan marker (this will add 2 sts per section = 8 sts total).
  2. Next round: knit all sts (no increases) to give a plain round — this evens the increases.
  3. Repeat those two rounds (increase round + plain round) R times until the body stitch count equals your desired chest stitches (finished chest × gauge). See the earlier formula or the example R values for each size.

Tip: Count your stitches every few repeats to verify you are on track. If you prefer a less-sloped raglan, work increase rounds less frequently (every 3rd round) — recalculate R accordingly.

3) Separate sleeves

  1. When you have completed R increase rounds and your stitch total matches the desired chest stitch count, next round: work across Back section sts, place Sleeve 1 sts on waste yarn or holder, remove marker and cast on 4 underarm sts (or pick up 4 sts later) to bridge the sleeve gap, work across Front sts, place Sleeve 2 sts on waste yarn, cast on 4 underarm sts. Join and continue working body in MC in the round. (You can use 2-3 CO sts at each underarm for tidiness — some patterns use 0 and pick up later; either is fine.)

4) Body (MC)

  1. Work body in stockinette (knit every round) until body length measures your desired measurement from underarm to hem: typical lengths are 16" / 41 cm (S), 17" / 43 cm (M), 18" / 46 cm (L), 18.5" / 47 cm (XL/Large), 19" / 48 cm (2X). Customize as desired.
  2. When you reach desired length, work 1"–1.5" / 2.5–4 cm of ribbing in MC (same rib pattern as neck) and bind off loosely in rib.

5) Sleeves (CC)

  1. Transfer sleeve sts from holders to needles. You should have the sleeve stitch counts listed earlier for your size (or the count you blocked when you placed them on holders). If you cast on underarm stitches earlier, include them now.
  2. Join CC and work in the round. Place a marker for the beginning-of-round.
  3. Work stockinette in CC, knitting every round, while you decrease evenly for sleeve shaping until sleeve circumference at wrist is desired. Typical finished wrist circumference (after ribbing) is 7"–8.5" / 18–22 cm. Using gauge 5 sts/inch, target wrist sts = wrist_inches × 5.
  4. Decrease example schedule (even decreases, adjust spacing to suit): every 6th round, decrease 8 sts evenly around (k2tog or ssk as appropriate) until you reach approx 2× desired wrist sts (you will finish with ribbing which takes some sts). Alternate schedule: calculate the number of decreases required as (current_sleeve_sts - target_wrist_sts) and divide by 8 to get the number of decrease rounds needed if you remove 8 sts per decrease round; space evenly between rounds. Keep shaping symmetrical.
  5. When sleeve length from underarm to wrist measures your desired length (typical 17" / 43 cm for S, 18" / 46 cm M, 19" / 48 cm L/XL etc.), work 1"–1.5" / 2.5–4 cm ribbing in CC and bind off loosely in rib.

6) Finishing

Colorwork & jogless stripes tips

Customization

Care

Follow yarn label care. Generally hand-wash and dry-flat for natural fibers; machine wash on gentle and lay flat for machine-washable blends.

Support

Pattern and support: https://purljam.verde.uk — email: team@verde.uk — socials: #purljam

Notes: This pattern gives a complete top-down raglan workflow plus formulas so you can alter gauge, cast-on and fit. If you change gauge, recalc desired chest sts using desired chest inches × your own swatch sts-per-inch and follow the same process for R and separation.


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