Top-Down Seamless Raglan Sweater — Body in One Color (MC), Sleeves in Another (CC)
A versatile, top-down raglan worked seamlessly in the round. The body is worked in Main Color (MC) and both sleeves are worked in Contrast Color (CC). Instructions are written for five adult sizes and include clear formulas so you can adjust fit. Gauge, needles and yarn information are given in US, UK (old) and metric references.
Finished measurements (approx, includes 2" positive ease)
- Small (S): 36" / 91.5 cm chest
- Medium (M): 40" / 102 cm chest
- Large (L): 44" / 112 cm chest
- XL: 48" / 122 cm chest
- 2X: 52" / 132 cm chest
Yarn
- Weight: Worsted / Aran (Category 4)
- Suggested yarn: smooth worsted with good stitch definition
- Yarn per 100 g: approx 220 yds / 201 m (Imperial/Metric)
- Amounts (approx):
- S — MC: 700 yds / 640 m; CC (sleeves): 300 yds / 275 m
- M — MC: 800 yds / 732 m; CC: 350 yds / 320 m
- L — MC: 900 yds / 823 m; CC: 400 yds / 366 m
- XL — MC: 1000 yds / 914 m; CC: 450 yds / 411 m
- 2X — MC: 1150 yds / 1052 m; CC: 500 yds / 457 m
Needles & Notions
- Circular needle: 32" (80 cm) or 36" (90 cm) length for yoke and body in the round; use a 16" (40 cm) if you prefer smaller circumference holding — adjust as needed. Size: US 7 / UK (Old) 7 / 4.5 mm.
- Second circular (optional) for magic-loop or 16" for small circumferences; dpns or 9" (23 cm) circ for sleeves: US 7 / UK (Old) 7 / 4.5 mm.
- Tight ribbing needle (optional): one size down US 6 / 4.0 mm for a firmer neck/band if desired.
- Stitch markers (4 small + 1 removable marker), waste yarn or scrap yarn to hold sleeve stitches, tapestry needle, stitch holder or waste yarn, measuring tape.
Gauge
20 sts = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette on US 7 (4.5 mm) after blocking. Always swatch and block to match gauge.
Abbreviations
- MC = Main Color (body)
- CC = Contrast Color (sleeves)
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
- m1 = make one (pick up strand and knit through back loop unless otherwise specified)
- RS = right side; WS = wrong side
- rep = repeat
Notes & Strategy
- This is a top-down raglan: you cast on the neck, work raglan increases at four raglan lines until the yoke reaches the desired underarm depth, place sleeve stitches on holders, then work the body in MC in the round. Later pick up sleeve stitches and work sleeves in CC down to the wrist.
- Raglan increases: we will increase 8 sts per increase round (2 sts added to each of the 4 raglan sections). Work increases every other round (i.e., increase round, plain round; repeat) for a smoother yoke and fewer holes. Each increase-round increases each section by +2 sts.
- Because this is top-down, you stop increasing when the body stitch count equals your desired chest measurement × gauge (st/inch). Example stitch counts for each size are provided below; alternate by measuring on yourself as you go for a custom fit.
- All ribbing (neck & bottom hem) is worked in MC to match the body; sleeves are fully CC (including cuffs) unless you prefer MC cuffs.
Starting numbers and sample math (gauge 5 sts/inch = 20 sts/4")
We give a recommended provisional cast-on and the sample number of raglan increase rounds (R) to reach each finished chest. Increase rounds are the count of increase rounds (each increases 8 sts). To work them you’ll knit an increase round then a plain round; that pair repeats R times.
- Cast on (provisional or stretchy CO) and join: S 56 sts, M 64 sts, L 72 sts, XL 80 sts, 2X 88 sts.
- Initial section sizes (each of 4 sections) = cast-on ÷ 4: S 14, M 16, L 18, XL 20, 2X 22.
Desired chest in stitches = finished chest (inches) × 5 sts/inch. Calculate R = (desired_chest_sts - (cast_on ÷ 2)) ÷ 4. That yields the number of increase rounds (each increase-round adds 8 sts total).
Example calculated R and sleeve counts at separation
- S (36") desired = 180 sts total. R = 38 increase rounds. Sleeve sts at separation = initial_section + 2R = 14 + 76 = 90 sts each.
- M (40") desired = 200 sts total. R = 42 increase rounds. Sleeve sts = 16 + 84 = 100 sts each.
- L (44") desired = 220 sts total. R = 46 increase rounds. Sleeve sts = 18 + 92 = 110 sts each.
- XL (48") desired = 240 sts total. R = 50 increase rounds. Sleeve sts = 20 + 100 = 120 sts each.
- 2X (52") desired = 260 sts total. R = 54 increase rounds. Sleeve sts = 22 + 108 = 130 sts each.
Note: those sleeve stitch counts are what you will set aside at the underarm. After separation the body sts equal the desired chest stitches. The sleeves will be worked later and decreased to a comfortable wrist circumference.
Pattern — Top-Down Raglan
1) Neck
- Using MC and your preferred provisional or stretchy cast-on, CO: S 56, M 64, L 72, XL 80, 2X 88 sts. Place marker and join carefully to work in the round, making sure the CO isn't twisted.
- Knit 1x1 rib (k1, p1) or 2x2 rib (k2, p2) around for 1" / 2.5 cm for a light roll, or 1.25" / 3 cm for a firmer neck. If you used provisional CO, you will graft later to tidy the cast-on if you like; alternately fold and stitch down for a bound neck.
- Switch to stockinette in MC after ribbing and begin raglan set-up: place 4 markers to divide the yoke into Back, Sleeve 1, Front, Sleeve 2. Typical arrangement after ribbing: work first section, place marker, work next section, place marker, etc.
2) Yoke raglan increases (MC)
Pattern for raglan increase rounds (worked every other round):
- Increase round (worked RS): *Work to 1 st before raglan marker, m1, k1, slip marker, k1, m1* — repeat at each raglan marker (this will add 2 sts per section = 8 sts total).
- Next round: knit all sts (no increases) to give a plain round — this evens the increases.
- Repeat those two rounds (increase round + plain round) R times until the body stitch count equals your desired chest stitches (finished chest × gauge). See the earlier formula or the example R values for each size.
Tip: Count your stitches every few repeats to verify you are on track. If you prefer a less-sloped raglan, work increase rounds less frequently (every 3rd round) — recalculate R accordingly.
3) Separate sleeves
- When you have completed R increase rounds and your stitch total matches the desired chest stitch count, next round: work across Back section sts, place Sleeve 1 sts on waste yarn or holder, remove marker and cast on 4 underarm sts (or pick up 4 sts later) to bridge the sleeve gap, work across Front sts, place Sleeve 2 sts on waste yarn, cast on 4 underarm sts. Join and continue working body in MC in the round. (You can use 2-3 CO sts at each underarm for tidiness — some patterns use 0 and pick up later; either is fine.)
4) Body (MC)
- Work body in stockinette (knit every round) until body length measures your desired measurement from underarm to hem: typical lengths are 16" / 41 cm (S), 17" / 43 cm (M), 18" / 46 cm (L), 18.5" / 47 cm (XL/Large), 19" / 48 cm (2X). Customize as desired.
- When you reach desired length, work 1"–1.5" / 2.5–4 cm of ribbing in MC (same rib pattern as neck) and bind off loosely in rib.
5) Sleeves (CC)
- Transfer sleeve sts from holders to needles. You should have the sleeve stitch counts listed earlier for your size (or the count you blocked when you placed them on holders). If you cast on underarm stitches earlier, include them now.
- Join CC and work in the round. Place a marker for the beginning-of-round.
- Work stockinette in CC, knitting every round, while you decrease evenly for sleeve shaping until sleeve circumference at wrist is desired. Typical finished wrist circumference (after ribbing) is 7"–8.5" / 18–22 cm. Using gauge 5 sts/inch, target wrist sts = wrist_inches × 5.
- Decrease example schedule (even decreases, adjust spacing to suit): every 6th round, decrease 8 sts evenly around (k2tog or ssk as appropriate) until you reach approx 2× desired wrist sts (you will finish with ribbing which takes some sts). Alternate schedule: calculate the number of decreases required as (current_sleeve_sts - target_wrist_sts) and divide by 8 to get the number of decrease rounds needed if you remove 8 sts per decrease round; space evenly between rounds. Keep shaping symmetrical.
- When sleeve length from underarm to wrist measures your desired length (typical 17" / 43 cm for S, 18" / 46 cm M, 19" / 48 cm L/XL etc.), work 1"–1.5" / 2.5–4 cm ribbing in CC and bind off loosely in rib.
6) Finishing
- Weave in ends, paying special attention to color change joins where MC meets CC; tidy the joins by weaving in and burying yarn tails toward the seam lines (raglan lines hide joins nicely).
- If you used provisional CO at the neck, remove waste yarn and graft live stitches to the ribbed neck cast-on if you want a perfectly joined neck opening; alternately fold and sew to finish.
- Block gently to measurements: wet block or steam block per yarn instructions. Blocking evens stitches and opens up the relaxed fabric.
Colorwork & jogless stripes tips
- Because you are changing color only for sleeves, you will join CC when you pick up the sleeve sts; there is no jog around the body. For neat underarms, twist yarns when joining to prevent holes, and use small-gauge mattress stitch if you added bridge sts across the underarm.
- If you want color continuity (carried CC across yoke) this is a different construction; our pattern keeps sleeves solid CC for a clean contrast.
Customization
- To make the body longer: work more stockinette rounds before starting hem rib.
- To make sleeves shorter/longer: work fewer/more rounds before ribbing and adjust decrease schedule accordingly.
- To change yarn weight: recalculate gauge and quantities and adjust needle size. Always swatch.
Care
Follow yarn label care. Generally hand-wash and dry-flat for natural fibers; machine wash on gentle and lay flat for machine-washable blends.
Support
Pattern and support: https://purljam.verde.uk — email: team@verde.uk — socials: #purljam
Notes: This pattern gives a complete top-down raglan workflow plus formulas so you can alter gauge, cast-on and fit. If you change gauge, recalc desired chest sts using desired chest inches × your own swatch sts-per-inch and follow the same process for R and separation.
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