Bulky Raglan Sweater - Body in One Color, Sleeves in Another
Top-down seamless raglan worked in the round. Body (main color, MC) is one color; sleeves are worked later in a contrasting color (contrast color, CC). Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL). Finished bust: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58) inches / 86 (97, 107, 117, 127, 137, 147) cm. Gauge: 12 sts x 16 rnds = 4 in / 10 cm in stockinette on larger needles (worked in the round). St/inch = 12/4 = 3 sts/in. Materials:
- Yarn: Bulky / Chunky (Category 5). Example weight: ~120 yds / 110 m per 100 g skein. MC (body): approx 500 (650, 800, 950, 1100, 1250, 1400) yds / 457 (594, 732, 868, 1006, 1143, 1280) m. CC (sleeves): approx 150 (175, 200, 225, 250, 300, 350) yds / 137 (160, 183, 206, 229, 274, 320) m.
- Needles: US 10.5 / UK (old) 00 / 6.5 mm circular needle 32 in / 80 cm (for body yoke and body); US 10.5 / UK 00 / 6.5 mm double-pointed needles or long circular needle for magic loop for sleeves; smaller needles for ribbing: US 10 / UK (old) 0 / 6.0 mm circular and dpns for 2x2 rib at hem and cuffs.
- Notions: 4 stitch markers (contrasting), waste yarn or removable stitch holders for sleeves, tapestry needle, stitch holder or scrap yarn for provisional cast-on if you prefer, measuring tape.
Abbreviations
- K: knit
- P: purl
- RS: right side
- st(s): stitch(es)
- M1L, M1R: make 1 left / right (leaning increases) — or use your preferred increase that produces neat increases beside markers
- yo: yarn over
- pm: place marker
- sm: slip marker
- rnd: round
Sizing & stitch targets
Gauge = 3 sts per inch. Target finished bust (in) and body stitch counts at gauge (sts):
- XS 34" = 102 sts
- S 38" = 114 sts
- M 42" = 126 sts
- L 46" = 138 sts
- XL 50" = 150 sts
- 2XL 54" = 162 sts
- 3XL 58" = 174 sts
Recommended finished sleeve circumferences (in) and sleeve stitch targets (sts):
- XS 12" = 36 sts
- S 13" = 39 sts
- M 14" = 42 sts
- L 15" = 45 sts
- XL 16" = 48 sts
- 2XL 17" = 51 sts
- 3XL 18" = 54 sts
When working the raglan yoke, continue increases until total stitch count equals: body_st + 2 x sleeve_st. (Example for M: 126 + 2 x 42 = 210 total stitches.) Each full raglan increase round adds 8 sts (2 sts at each of 4 raglan seams).
Neckline / Yoke Setup
Cast on and join:
- Using larger circular (US 10.5 / 6.5 mm) cast on 56 (60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80) sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker for the beginning of round.
- Work 1x1 rib or 2x2 rib for 1/2" / 1.2 cm if you want a neat neckline, or work several rounds of stockinette for a more open neckline. (Optional: work a few rounds of 2x2 rib on the smaller needles first.)
Now set up raglan increases. Place 4 evenly spaced markers to divide the round into 4 sections: front, sleeve, back, sleeve. Suggested arrangement after cast-on: pm at these approximate intervals or simply place markers after casting on counted numbers so you have 4 sections roughly equal in size. If you want a defined front center, place a contrasting marker at front center.
Raglan increase round (worked in MC)
Repeat this increase round every RS round until total stitches = body_st + 2 x sleeve_st (see sizing table above). Increase round (one round):
Work to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1, sm, k1, M1L, continue to next marker and repeat at each of the 4 markers. (This creates 2 increases at each raglan seam; 8 sts added total per increase round.)
Between increase rounds, work rounds of plain stockinette (knit every rnd) for 1 rnd (i.e., increase round every second round), or work increase round every round if you prefer a more open, faster yoke. Typical sequence: alternate increase round and plain knit round.
Divide for sleeves
When total stitch count equals the target total for your chosen size, you are ready to separate sleeves from the body:
- Your round will be arranged as: Front section, marker, Sleeve section 1, marker, Back section, marker, Sleeve section 2, marker. Slip the sleeve section 1 sts onto waste yarn or stitch holder. Slip sleeve section 2 sts onto waste yarn or holder. The remaining sts are the body stitches (front + back).
- Place a marker at each underarm join or secure with stitch markers so you know where you separated.
- Join the remaining body sts in the round (MC). You now have the body alone on needles; work body in MC in the round.
Body
- With MC, continue knitting in stockinette (knit every round) until body measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18) inches / 38 (39, 41, 42, 43, 44, 46) cm from underarm or to your preferred length. Try on if possible.
- Switch to smaller needles (US 10 / 6.0 mm) and work 2x2 rib for 2.5 in / 6 cm. Bind off loosely in rib. Weave in ends.
Sleeves (worked in CC)
You will work sleeves after finishing the body. Transfer sleeve sts from holders to needles. Pick up and knit extra underarm stitches if you want a smooth underarm join: pick up and knit 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10) sts evenly between sleeve and body underarm gap, per sleeve. These numbers are suggestions; pick up more or fewer for comfort.
- With CC, work in the round: knit every round until sleeve measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 16.5, 17, 17.5) in / 38 (39, 41, 42, 42, 43, 44) cm from underarm or desired sleeve length, ending where you like cuff placement. You may taper sleeves by decreasing 4 sts evenly spaced (k2tog) every 2 in / 5 cm if you prefer a tapered sleeve—optional.
- Switch to smaller needles (US 10 / 6.0 mm) and work 2x2 rib for 2.5 in / 6 cm. Bind off loosely in rib. Repeat for second sleeve.
Finishing
- Weave in all loose ends. Because body and sleeves are worked in different colors, be sure to weave color joins neatly on the wrong side.
- Block gently to measurements: soak in lukewarm water with mild detergent, squeeze out excess water, lay flat and shape to measurements. Bulky yarn benefits from gentle blocking to even stitches.
Customizing notes
- Neck finish: if you prefer a smaller neck opening, start with fewer cast-on sts or work a short row partial collar before beginning raglan increases.
- Yoke depth: work more or fewer increase rounds before dividing for a deeper or shorter yoke/underarm depth.
- Sleeve color options: you can carry CC up into the yoke for a color-block shoulder look or add stripes at the cuff — the pattern is flexible.
Troubleshooting & tips
- Keep even tension at raglan increases; using M1L and M1R helps maintain a neat vertical line along raglan seams.
- To check sizing before dividing, try on the yoke by placing sleeve stitches on waste yarn and slipping body onto a longer cable to try on.
- If your gauge is off, change needle size and recalc target stitch counts: target body sts = desired bust in inches x gauge sts per inch.
Support
Pattern and support: https://purljam.verde.uk. For help email team@verde.uk or reach out on socials #purljam.
Notes: This pattern gives a clear workflow and targets rather than rigid per-round stitch tables so you can adapt the yoke depth and ease. If you want a written-out per-round increase schedule for a particular size, reply with which size and preferred neckline and I can provide the exact rounds and counts.