purlJam

# Alex's Raglan Stripe Pullover

## MACHINE_SETUP
**Machine:** Passap Duomatic 80 Double Bed Knitting Machine
**Yarn Type:** Worsted weight (as per gauge provided)

1.  **Swatch Instructions:** Before beginning, knit a tension swatch to confirm your gauge.
    *   Cast on 50-60 stitches (25-30 on each bed) using a waste yarn and the main bed only at a loose tension (e.g., Tension 6).
    *   Change to MC (Grey) yarn.
    *   For Ribbing: Set P-selector to 2x2 (or equivalent for your Passap model) for both beds. Work 30 rows at Tension 2.
    *   For Stockinette: Transfer all stitches to the back bed for single bed knitting, or set P-selector to stockinette stitch for both beds for double bed stockinette. Change to Tension 7.5. Knit 50 rows.
    *   Bind off and remove from machine.
    *   Steam press the swatch thoroughly, ensuring it is flat and relaxed.
    *   Allow to dry.
    *   Measure the central 10 cm (4 inches) both horizontally (stitches) and vertically (rows) for accuracy.
2.  **Machine Bed Gauge:** The pattern is based on a tension producing:
    *   Stockinette Stitch: 2.6 stitches per cm (6.6 stitches per inch) and 3.5 rows per cm (8.9 rows per inch).
3.  **Ribber Usage:** This pattern uses the ribber for 2x2 machine rib for hems, cuffs, and neckband. Ensure your ribber is attached and set up correctly.
4.  **Cast-On Combs & Weights:** Use appropriate cast-on combs and claw weights to ensure even tension across your knitting, especially for the double bed ribbing and when starting new panels. Adjust weight placement as needed.
5.  **Tension Dial Suggestions:**
    *   **Stockinette Stitch (S.S. 7.5):** Use Tension Dial 7.5 on both beds for the main body and sleeves.
    *   **2x2 Rib:** Use Tension Dial 2 on both beds for the hems, cuffs, and neckband.

## MATERIALS
*   **Yarn:** Brancal 100% Merino (Worsted weight)
    *   Main Color (MC): Grey (approx. 750 yards / 685 meters)
    *   Contrast Color 1 (CC1): Green (approx. 350 yards / 320 meters)
    *   Contrast Color 2 (CC2): Black (approx. 150 yards / 137 meters)
*   **Machine:** Passap Duomatic 80 Double Bed Knitting Machine
*   **Accessories:**
    *   Waste yarn
    *   Cast-on comb and claw weights
    *   Transfer tools (e.g., 1x1, 2x1, 3x1 for shaping)
    *   Latch tool
    *   Row Counter (RC)
    *   Measuring tape
    *   Yarn bobbins or clips for managing multiple colors
    *   Tapestry needle for seaming
    *   Blocking board and pins

## GAUGE_AND_TENSION
**Stockinette Stitch (Passap S.S. 7.5):**
*   26 stitches per 10 cm (10 stitches per 4 inches) = **2.6 stitches per cm (6.6 stitches per inch)**
*   35 rows per 10 cm (13.8 rows per 4 inches) = **3.5 rows per cm (8.9 rows per inch)**

**Rib Gauge (2x2 Rib, Passap T. 2):**
*   Gauge for 2x2 rib is denser. While precise gauge is not given, the specified tension setting (T. 2) is suitable for a firm rib.

**How to measure gauge:**
After knitting your swatch, steam press it thoroughly to relax the fibers. Lay it flat and allow it to cool and dry completely. Measure a 10 cm (4 inch) square in the center of your swatch, counting stitches horizontally and rows vertically. Your measured gauge should match the pattern gauge. Adjust your tension dial up or down by half-steps if needed.

## SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES
This pattern is designed for Alex, with the following approximate finished dimensions:

| Measurement           | Imperial (inches) | Metric (cm) | Stitches / Rows (approx.) |
| :-------------------- | :---------------- | :---------- | :------------------------ |
| **Body (Chest Circ.)**| 41.73 in          | 106 cm      | 138 sts (per panel)       |
| **Overall Length**    | 25.59 in          | 65 cm       | 228 rows                  |
| Hem Length            | 3.15 in           | 8 cm        | 28 rows                   |
| Hem to Underarm       | 13.39 in          | 34 cm       | 119 rows                  |
| Armhole Depth         | 9.06 in           | 23 cm       | 80 rows                   |
| **Sleeve (Cuff Circ.)**| 7.87 in           | 20 cm       | 52 sts                    |
| Cuff Height           | 3.15 in           | 8 cm        | 28 rows                   |
| Underarm Length       | 16.54 in          | 42 cm       | 147 rows                  |
| Armpit Circ.          | 13.39 in          | 34 cm       | 88 sts                    |
| **Neckline Circ.**    | 21.65 in          | 55 cm       | 140 sts (for neckband)    |

*Note: All measurements are approximate. Actual finished size may vary slightly based on yarn, gauge, and blocking.*

## BACK_PANEL
**Starting Stitches:** 138 sts (69R/69L)

1.  **Hem (Solid MC - Grey):**
    *   Using MC (Grey), cast on 138 stitches (69 needles on each bed, left and right of center 0). Set P-selector to 2x2 rib.
    *   Hang cast-on comb and weights.
    *   Set Tension Dials to T. 2 on both beds.
    *   RC000: Begin knitting.
    *   RC001-028: Knit 28 rows in 2x2 rib. (8 cm / 3.15 inches)
    *   Remove cast-on comb.
    *   RC028: Transfer all stitches from the ribber bed to the main bed to create a single bed of 138 stitches. Remove ribber.
    *   Hang claw weights evenly along the knitting.
    *   Change tension to T. 7.5 on the main bed.
2.  **Body (Stripe Pattern - Chart A):**
    *   RC029: Begin knitting in Stockinette stitch.
    *   Working in Stockinette stitch and following **Chart A** for stripe sequence (RC 1-40, then repeat), knit for 119 rows (34 cm / 13.39 inches) from the top of the hem.
    *   RC029-147: Continue knitting following Chart A. (Current stitch count: 138 sts).
    *   When changing colors, ensure the non-working yarn is carried neatly up the side of the knitting. Avoid tight floats.
    *   Mark the underarm position on each side with a safety pin or contrasting yarn marker at RC147.
3.  **Raglan Shaping (Stripe Pattern - Chart A):**
    *   RC148: Continue knitting following Chart A.
    *   Over the next 80 rows (23 cm / 9.06 inches), you will decrease for the raglan seams.
    *   **Decrease 1 st at each end every 2nd row, 38 times.**
        *   (RC148, 150, 152, ... 222): Decrease 1 stitch at COL (carriage on left) and COR (carriage on right) using a 3-in-1 transfer tool (e.g., move the 2nd stitch in from edge onto the 1st stitch, then knit the remaining stitch). Repeat this 38 times.
        *   Total rows used: `38 * 2 = 76 rows`. Total decreases: `38 * 2 = 76 sts`.
        *   Stitches remaining after 38 decreases: `138 - 76 = 62 sts`.
    *   **Decrease 1 st at each end on the next 4th row, 1 time.**
        *   (RC226): After working 3 rows straight, decrease 1 stitch at COL and COR.
        *   Total rows used: `76 + 4 = 80 rows`. Total decreases: `76 + 2 = 78 sts`.
    *   RC228: After completing the 80 rows of raglan shaping, you will have 60 stitches remaining on the machine. This is the back neck width. (`138 sts - 78 sts = 60 sts`).
    *   Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for seaming. Thread stitches onto waste yarn or bind off using the latch tool.
    *   Set aside.

## FRONT_PANEL
**Starting Stitches:** 138 sts (69R/69L)

1.  **Hem (Solid MC - Grey):**
    *   Using MC (Grey), cast on 138 stitches (69 needles on each bed). Set P-selector to 2x2 rib.
    *   Hang cast-on comb and weights.
    *   Set Tension Dials to T. 2 on both beds.
    *   RC000: Begin knitting.
    *   RC001-028: Knit 28 rows in 2x2 rib. (8 cm / 3.15 inches)
    *   Remove cast-on comb.
    *   RC028: Transfer all stitches from the ribber bed to the main bed. Remove ribber.
    *   Hang claw weights evenly along the knitting.
    *   Change tension to T. 7.5 on the main bed.
2.  **Body (Stripe Pattern - Chart A):**
    *   RC029: Begin knitting in Stockinette stitch.
    *   Working in Stockinette stitch and following **Chart A** for stripe sequence (RC 1-40, then repeat), knit for 119 rows (34 cm / 13.39 inches) from the top of the hem.
    *   RC029-147: Continue knitting following Chart A. (Current stitch count: 138 sts).
    *   Mark the underarm position on each side with a safety pin or contrasting yarn marker at RC147.
3.  **Raglan and Neck Shaping (Stripe Pattern - Chart A):**
    *   RC148: Continue knitting following Chart A.
    *   Raglan shaping begins as for the back panel.
    *   **Decrease 1 st at each end every 2nd row.**
        *   (RC148, 150, ..., 178): Decrease 1 stitch at COL and COR using a 3-in-1 transfer tool, 15 times.
        *   Total rows used: `15 * 2 = 30 rows`. Total decreases: `15 * 2 = 30 sts`.
        *   Stitches remaining: `138 - 30 = 108 sts`.
    *   RC179: (31st row of raglan shaping, 14 cm / 5.5 inches from top of shoulder for neck opening depth)
        *   **Shape Front Neck:**
            *   Bring 48 central stitches to hold position (24 needles to the left and 24 needles to the right of center 0).
            *   Bind off these 48 stitches using a latch tool. This creates the initial neck opening.
            *   You now have `(108 - 48) / 2 = 30 stitches` remaining on each shoulder.
            *   Divide knitting, working each side of the neck opening independently.
            *   For the next 49 rows (RC179-228), continue raglan decreases at the armhole edge AND begin neck decreases at the neck edge.
            *   **Raglan Decreases (remaining 24 times):** Decrease 1 stitch at the armhole edge (outer edge of shoulder) every 2nd row, 24 times.
            *   **Neck Decreases (24 times):** Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge (inner edge of shoulder) every 2nd row, 24 times.
                *   Work 1 row. When carriage is at the neck edge, decrease 1 st by transferring the 2nd needle in onto the 1st needle and knit. Do this on every 2nd row.
            *   After 49 rows (total RC228), you will have `30 - 24 = 6 stitches` remaining on each shoulder.
            *   These 6 stitches form the top of the front raglan.
    *   RC228: Total 12 stitches remaining (6 per shoulder).
    *   Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for seaming. Thread stitches onto waste yarn or bind off using the latch tool.
    *   Set aside.

## SLEEVES (Make 2)
**Starting Stitches:** 52 sts (26R/26L)

1.  **Cuff (Solid MC - Grey):**
    *   Using MC (Grey), cast on 52 stitches (26 needles on each bed). Set P-selector to 2x2 rib.
    *   Hang cast-on comb and weights.
    *   Set Tension Dials to T. 2 on both beds.
    *   RC000: Begin knitting.
    *   RC001-028: Knit 28 rows in 2x2 rib. (8 cm / 3.15 inches)
    *   Remove cast-on comb.
    *   RC028: Transfer all stitches from the ribber bed to the main bed. Remove ribber.
    *   Hang claw weights evenly along the knitting.
    *   Change tension to T. 7.5 on the main bed.
2.  **Sleeve Increases (Stripe Pattern - Chart A):**
    *   RC029: Begin knitting in Stockinette stitch.
    *   Following **Chart A** for stripe sequence (RC 1-40, then repeat), knit for 147 rows (42 cm / 16.54 inches) from the top of the cuff, increasing to widen the sleeve.
    *   You need to increase from 52 stitches to 88 stitches (34 cm / 13.39 inches armpit circumference). Total increases needed: `88 - 52 = 36 sts`. This means 18 increases on each side.
    *   **Increase 1 st at each end every 8th row, 18 times.**
        *   (RC036, 044, 052, ... 172): After knitting 7 rows, on the 8th row, increase 1 stitch at COL and COR. This can be done by picking up the loop from the row below the edge stitch and placing it on the outermost needle, then knitting across. Or use edge loops.
        *   Total rows used: `18 * 8 = 144 rows`.
        *   Stitches after 18 increases: `52 + 36 = 88 sts`.
    *   RC175: After the last increase, knit the remaining 3 rows straight. (RC173-175).
    *   RC175: You should have 88 stitches on the machine. Mark the underarm position on each side with a safety pin or contrasting yarn marker.
3.  **Raglan Shaping (Stripe Pattern - Chart A):**
    *   RC176: Continue knitting following Chart A.
    *   Over the next 80 rows (23 cm / 9.06 inches), you will decrease for the raglan seams.
    *   **Decrease 1 st at each end every 2nd row, 38 times.**
        *   (RC176, 178, 180, ... 250): Decrease 1 stitch at COL and COR using a 3-in-1 transfer tool. Repeat 38 times.
        *   Total rows used: `38 * 2 = 76 rows`. Total decreases: `38 * 2 = 76 sts`.
        *   Stitches remaining after 38 decreases: `88 - 76 = 12 sts`.
    *   **Decrease 1 st at each end on the next 4th row, 1 time.**
        *   (RC254): After working 3 rows straight, decrease 1 stitch at COL and COR.
        *   Total rows used: `76 + 4 = 80 rows`. Total decreases: `76 + 2 = 78 sts`.
    *   RC255: After completing the 80 rows of raglan shaping, you will have 10 stitches remaining on the machine. (`88 sts - 78 sts = 10 sts`).
    *   Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for seaming. Thread stitches onto waste yarn or bind off using the latch tool.
    *   Set aside and make the second sleeve identical.

## NECKBAND
**Total Stitches to Rehang:** 140 stitches

1.  **Prepare Stitches:**
    *   Carefully rehang all live stitches from the back neck (60 sts), front neck (6 + 6 = 12 sts from shoulders + 48 sts from bind-off edge to create a smooth curve for rehanging, will pick up fewer stitches here for the desired neck width) and the top of the two sleeves (10 + 10 = 20 sts) onto the main bed (total 140 needles: 70R/70L).
    *   For the front neck's 48 bound-off stitches, you will pick up approximately 38 stitches to ensure a snug fit, distributing them evenly. The goal is to pick up 60 stitches for the front neckline portion.
    *   When rehanging, ensure the right side of the fabric is facing you.
    *   Rehang with MC (Grey) for the neckband.
2.  **Knit Ribbing:**
    *   Attach the ribber. Transfer stitches for 2x2 rib (e.g., move every 2nd stitch from the main bed to the ribber bed). Ensure an even distribution for 2x2 rib pattern.
    *   Set P-selector to 2x2 rib. Set Tension Dials to T. 2 on both beds.
    *   RC000: Begin knitting.
    *   RC001-020: Knit 20 rows in 2x2 rib. (approx. 5.7 cm / 2.24 inches).
3.  **Bind Off:**
    *   Bind off all stitches loosely using a latch tool bind-off, or for a stretchier finish, a sewn bind-off.
    *   Cut yarn and secure the end.

## FINISHING
1.  **Steaming & Blocking:**
    *   Gently steam press all knitted panels (back, front, sleeves, and neckband) to relax the stitches and ensure they lie flat. Avoid stretching them out of shape.
    *   Lay out the panels on a flat surface or a sweater board, pinning them to the finished dimensions outlined in the "SCHEMATIC_AND_SIZES" section. Allow to dry completely. This is especially important for colorwork to ensure the fabric relaxes evenly and floats are not too tight or loose.
2.  **Seaming:**
    *   **Raglan Seams:** Using MC yarn and a tapestry needle, carefully seam the four raglan edges together using mattress stitch (or an invisible seam method suitable for machine knitting). Match the stripes perfectly at these joins. There will be 4 raglan seams: Front-Sleeve (left and right) and Back-Sleeve (left and right).
    *   **Side Seams:** Seam the side edges of the front and back panels from the hem to the underarm using mattress stitch.
    *   **Sleeve Seams:** Seam the underside of each sleeve from the cuff to the underarm using mattress stitch.
3.  **Weave in Ends:** Neatly weave in all remaining yarn ends on the wrong side of your work.
4.  **Final Block (Optional):** Once assembled, you can give the entire sweater a final gentle steam or wet block to ensure all seams lie flat and the overall garment is relaxed and even.

## CHARTS

### CHART A: Stripe Pattern (40 rows per repeat)
This chart illustrates one full repeat of the stripe pattern, consisting of 2 rows of Black (CC2), 18 rows of Grey (MC), 2 rows of Black (CC2), and 18 rows of Green (CC1).

**Stripe Sequence for Body and Sleeves (above hem/cuff):**
*   RC029-030 (Chart Row 1-2): CC2 (Black) - 2 rows
*   RC031-048 (Chart Row 3-20): MC (Grey) - 18 rows
*   RC049-050 (Chart Row 21-22): CC2 (Black) - 2 rows
*   RC051-068 (Chart Row 23-40): CC1 (Green) - 18 rows

Repeat this 40-row sequence 5 times for a total of 200 rows in the main body and sleeve sections.

```
40: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●● (CC1 - Green)
39: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
38: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
37: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
36: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
35: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
34: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
33: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
32: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
31: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
30: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
29: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
28: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
27: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
26: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
25: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
24: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
23: ●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●●
22: ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ (CC2 - Black)
21: ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
20: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□ (MC - Grey)
19: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
18: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
17: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
16: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
15: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
14: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
13: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
12: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
11: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
10: □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
9:  □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
8:  □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
7:  □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
6:  □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
5:  □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
4:  □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
3:  □□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□□
2:  ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■ (CC2 - Black)
1:  ■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■■
```
**Key:**
*   □ = MC (Grey)
*   ● = CC1 (Green)
*   ■ = CC2 (Black)

**Chart Instructions:**
*   **How to Read:** This chart is read from the bottom up, representing the rows as they are knit on the machine. Each row represents 2 passes of the carriage (one row knit). For stripe patterns, simply change color at the indicated row for the full width of the fabric.
*   **Where it Appears:** This stripe pattern is used for the main body sections of the Front and Back panels, and for the main body of both Sleeves, starting after the solid MC hem/cuff.
*   **Color Management:** No complex stranding or floats are required for these simple horizontal stripes. Carry the non-working yarns loosely up the side of the fabric when not in use. Trim and weave in ends securely at color changes if you prefer to cut the yarn after each use.
*   **Blocking Notes:** Ensure gentle blocking to avoid distorting the stripes.

## ABBREVIATIONS
*   **CC1:** Contrast Color 1 (Green)
*   **CC2:** Contrast Color 2 (Black)
*   **cm:** Centimeters
*   **COL:** Carriage On Left
*   **COR:** Carriage On Right
*   **dec:** Decrease
*   **in:** Inches
*   **inc:** Increase
*   **k:** Knit
*   **L:** Left
*   **MC:** Main Color (Grey)
*   **p:** Purl
*   **RC:** Row Counter
*   **R:** Right
*   **st(s):** Stitch(es)
*   **T.:** Tension (as in T. 2 for Tension Dial 2)
*   **S.S.:** Stockinette Stitch