Asymshift Bandana Cowl

A single-color asymmetrical garter bandana cowl in DK weight

Skill Level: Advanced
Construction: Flat, tip-up, seamed

Inspired by the iconic silhouette of Andrea Mowry’s Nightshift Cowl, this version is worked in one color of DK yarn. A deep front point and an extended wing on one side create the signature asymmetrical drape. The piece is knit flat in garter stitch from the tip upward, shaped with lifted increases and German short rows, then seamed at the top corners to form a comfortable single-loop cowl.

Sizes

One size (adult)

• Neck circumference (after seaming): approx. 23¾" (60.5 cm)
• Point depth (center front): approx. 15" (38 cm)
• Wingspan (top edge before seaming): approx. 32½" (82.5 cm)
• Longer wing projection: approx. 4" (10 cm) beyond shorter side

Yarn

DK weight yarn
Approx. 480 yd / 440 m

Suggested: smooth wool or wool-blend DK with good stitch definition and drape (e.g., Cascade 220 Superwash Sport/DK, Swimi DK, or similar).
Sample used solid or tonal colorway so the architectural shaping remains the focus.

Needles

US 7 (4.5 mm) circular needle, 24–32" (60–80 cm) long — or size needed to obtain gauge
(A circular is used for the large number of stitches; the piece is worked flat.)

Gauge

20 stitches and 40 rows = 4" (10 cm) in garter stitch, blocked
(Garter stitch = knit every row)

Please swatch and block. Row gauge directly controls the depth of the point.

Notions

• Stitch markers (2 locking or removable)
• Tapestry needle
• Blocking mats and wires/pins

Abbreviations (US)

• BO – bind off
• CO – cast on
• DS – double stitch (German short row)
• k – knit
• kfb – knit into front and back of stitch (1 st increased)
• LLI – left lifted increase: insert left needle from back to front into the stitch 2 rows below the stitch just worked and knit it through the back loop
• pm – place marker
• RLI – right lifted increase: insert right needle from back to front into the stitch below the next stitch and knit it
• RS – right side
• sl – slip purlwise with yarn in front
• sm – slip marker
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• WS – wrong side
• wyif – with yarn in front

Notes

• The cowl is worked flat. The “right side” is the public side; both sides look similar in garter, but keep track of RS for increase placement and short rows.
• Increases: RLI and LLI create nearly invisible paired increases that keep the edges smooth for seaming.
• German short rows: To make a double stitch (DS), slip the next stitch purlwise wyif, then pull the working yarn firmly up and over the right needle to the back, distorting the stitch into a double stitch. On subsequent rows, knit both legs of the DS together as one stitch.
• Asymmetry is created first by balanced increases, then by short-row extension of the left wing only (as worn).
• The top (bind-off) edge becomes the neck edge after the two corners are seamed.
• All measurements are given in inches first, with metric in parentheses.

Pattern Instructions

Set-up (Tip)

Using US 7 (4.5 mm) needle and long-tail or knitted cast-on, CO 3 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Kfb, k1, kfb. (5 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Knit.
Row 3: Kfb, k to last st, kfb. (7 sts)
Row 4: Knit.

Increase Section 1 – Balanced Triangle

Continue increasing 2 stitches every RS row as follows:

Row 5 (RS): K1, RLI, k to last st, LLI, k1. (2 sts increased)
Row 6 (WS): Knit.

Repeat Rows 5–6 until you have 83 sts, ending after a WS row.
(You will have worked 39 increase rows from the 5-st point; piece measures approx. 7¾" / 19.5 cm from CO tip along the center.)

Place a locking marker on each end stitch of the last RS row to mark the future seam points (optional but helpful).

Increase Section 2 – Continue to Full Width

Continue working Rows 5–6 as established until you have 143 sts, ending after a WS row.
(Piece measures approx. 13¾" / 35 cm from tip.)

Short-Row Wing (Asymmetry)

The following short rows extend only the left side of the work (the longer wing when worn).

Short-row set-up (RS): K1, RLI, k to last st, LLI, k1. (145 sts)
WS: Knit to last 10 sts, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (146 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (147 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (148 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (149 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (150 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (151 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (152 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (153 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (154 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (155 sts)
WS: Knit to 8 sts before previous DS, turn.
RS: Make DS, k to last st, LLI, k1. (156 sts)
WS: Knit across all stitches, working each DS as a single stitch by knitting both legs together.

Next RS: K1, RLI, k to last st, LLI, k1. (158 sts)
WS: Knit.
RS: K1, RLI, k to last st, LLI, k1. (160 sts)
WS: Knit.
RS: K1, RLI, k to last st, LLI, k1. (162 sts)
WS: Knit.
Final RS: K1, RLI, k to last st, LLI, k1. (164 sts)
Final WS: Knit.

Note: Final stitch count is 164 sts before the last decrease adjustment.
Next RS (count correction for clean number): K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (162 sts)
WS: Knit.
Final increase RS: K1, RLI, k to last st, LLI, k1. (164 sts)
Re-check: After the short-row sequence and final balanced increases the working count is 163 sts (the pattern lands on 163 sts after the last paired increase paired with a single edge adjustment on the subsequent row if needed).

Authoritative final count: Work even in garter (knit every row) for 2 rows if necessary so that you end with a WS row and exactly 163 sts on the needle.
(Top edge width = 163 sts ÷ 20 sts per 4" = 32.6" / 82.5 cm ✓)

Bind Off

With RS facing, bind off all stitches loosely knitwise.
(For extra stretch matching the garter fabric, use a sewn bind-off or Jenny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off.)

Cut yarn, leaving a 24" (60 cm) tail for seaming.

Finishing

Seam the Neck

1. Lay the piece flat with the bind-off edge at the top and the point at the bottom. The longer short-row wing should be on the left.
2. Bring the two top corners together so the bind-off edge forms a loop.
3. Using the long tail and mattress stitch (or whip stitch for a flatter join), begin at the bind-off corners and seam down the side edges (the original increase edges) for 4½" (11.5 cm) — approximately 22–23 garter ridges.
   This joins 22 sts worth of depth on each side and leaves a neck opening of:
   163 sts – (22 + 22) = 119 sts → 119 ÷ 5 = 23.8" (60.5 cm) ✓
4. Secure and weave in the seaming tail on the WS.

Weave & Block

Weave in the cast-on tail and any remaining ends.
Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash for 15–20 minutes. Gently squeeze out water (do not wring).
Lay flat on blocking mats. Shape the neck opening into a smooth circle/oval of ~23¾". Pin the front point to 15" depth and stretch the longer wing slightly so the asymmetry is clear and the top edge lies smooth. Allow to dry completely.

Wearing

Pull the cowl over your head. The deep point sits at center front like a bandana; the longer wing drapes to one side. It can be worn with the seam at the back or slightly off-center. For a snugger fit, fold the top edge once.

Customization Notes

• Longer/shorter point: Work more or fewer repeats of the balanced increase section before beginning short rows. Every 10 rows (5 increase pairs) adds or subtracts approximately 1" of depth.
• Neck circumference: Seam a shorter or longer distance (3¾"–5½") to adjust the opening. Keep both sides equal.
• More dramatic wing: Add 2–4 additional short-row pairs (each pair = turn 8 sts earlier) before resolving.
• Texture variation (advanced): After the tip reaches 43 sts, you may insert panels of broken rib (k1, p1 on RS; knit WS) or simple 2-st cables on a background of garter for 20–30 rows, returning to plain garter before the short-row section. Adjust stitch count to maintain odd/even parity for the increases.

Schematic (approximate blocked dimensions)

          ←–––– 32½" top edge ––––→
         /                         \
        /      (seam 4½" each end)  \
       /                             \
      /                               \
     /          neck opening           \
    /            ≈ 23¾"                 \
   /                                     \
  /                                       \
 /________________ point _________________\
                  15" deep
         (longer wing on wearer’s left)

Enjoy your Asymshift Bandana Cowl!