Beginner’s Top-Down Raglan Pullover

Toddler sizes 2T (3T, 4T) — designed for a 3-year-old, with room to size up or down

A seamless, top-down raglan pullover worked entirely in half double crochet. There are no side or shoulder seams to irritate little ones, and the raglan yoke makes length and sleeve length easy to customize. The crew neck is sized to pull on over the head — no buttons required. Soft, machine-washable worsted yarn keeps it comfy and parent-friendly.

Skill level: Beginner (you should be comfortable with chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, and working in joined rounds).

Sizes

2T (3T, 4T)

Instructions are written for 2T with 3T and 4T in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

To fit chest: 23 (24, 25)" / 58.5 (61, 63.5) cm
Shown size / target size: 3T (to fit a typical 3-year-old)

Choose the size closest to the child’s actual chest measurement. The pattern includes about 3" (7.5 cm) of positive ease for layering and growing room. If the child is between sizes, size up.

Finished Measurements

• Chest circumference: 26¼ (27½, 28½)" / 66.5 (70, 72.5) cm
• Length, shoulder to hem: 14½ (15½, 16½)" / 37 (39.5, 42) cm
• Yoke / armhole depth: 5½" / 14 cm
• Body length, underarm to hem: 9 (10, 11)" / 23 (25.5, 28) cm
• Upper sleeve circumference: 9¾ (10¼, 10¾)" / 25 (26, 27.5) cm
• Sleeve length, underarm to cuff edge: 9 (10, 11)" / 23 (25.5, 28) cm
• Neck opening: about 18¼" / 46.5 cm (pull-on crew)
• Cuff circumference: 6¼ (6¾, 7½)" / 16 (17, 19) cm

Yarn

Worsted weight (CYC 4 / Medium), 400 (475, 550) yards / 365 (435, 500) meters

Use a soft, machine-washable yarn — superwash wool, cotton, acrylic, or a washable blend. Scratchy wool is not suitable for a toddler garment. Parents need easy care: choose a fiber that can go in the washer (and preferably the dryer) on a gentle cycle.

Approximate amount: 200 (240, 280) g; most 100 g / 180–220 yd skeins will need 3 skeins for any size (2 skeins may be enough for 2T if the put-up is 220 yd / 200 m or more — buy 3 to be safe).

Any solid or gently variegated color works. Stripes are an easy upgrade: change color at the slip-stitch join of any round.

Hook

• US H/8 (5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge

One hook is used for the entire garment so the pattern stays beginner-friendly. If your gauge is too loose (too few stitches per 4"), go down to US G/6 (4 mm). If it is too tight, go up to US I/9 (5.5 mm).

Notions

• 4 stitch markers (locking markers are easiest)
• Yarn needle
• Scissors
• 2 spare lengths of scrap yarn (or 2 extra stitch markers / holders) for the sleeve stitches

Gauge

14 hdc and 11 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in half double crochet, worked in the round, after a light steam or wash.

Swatch in the round (or work a 6 × 6" / 15 × 15 cm square and measure the center 4"). Gauge is essential — it controls chest size and armhole depth. If your swatch does not match, change hook size and swatch again before you start.

Stitch gauge: 14 hdc ÷ 4" = 3.5 stitches per inch ✓
Round gauge: 11 rounds ÷ 4" = 2.75 rounds per inch ✓

Abbreviations (US terms)

• BLO — back loop only
• ch — chain
• hdc — half double crochet
• hdc2tog — half double crochet 2 stitches together (decrease)
• pm — place marker
• rep — repeat
• rnd(s) — round(s)
• RS — right side
• sc — single crochet
• sl st — slip stitch
• st(s) — stitch(es)

hdc2tog: Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 5 loops. 1 stitch decreased.

Pattern Notes

• The pullover is worked top down, in joined rounds, with the right side always facing you. Do not turn at the end of a round.
• Join every round with a slip stitch in the first stitch of the round. The beginning-of-round chain does not count as a stitch.
• For hdc rounds: ch 1 at the start of the round, then hdc in the same stitch as the join (this is the first hdc).
• Four marked stitches are the raglan lines. On increase rounds you work 3 hdc in each marked stitch and move the marker to the center hdc of those 3. That adds 2 stitches at each raglan × 4 raglans = 8 stitches per increase round.
• Keep the starting chain loose (or use a hook one size larger just for the chain) so the neck will stretch over the head. Crochet fabric stretches less than knitting.
• Stitch counts are given at the end of each key round in bold.
• The pullover has no seams. A small gap can appear at each underarm — close it with the yarn tail when you weave in ends.
• Body and sleeves are written to measured length so you can fit the child as you go. Try it on (gently) before the ribbed hem and cuffs.

Pattern

Yoke

Neck foundation With US H/8 (5 mm) hook, ch 64. Join with sl st in the first ch to form a ring, being careful not to twist.

Rnd 1 (neck, no increases): Ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), hdc in the same ch as the join and in each ch around, join with sl st in first hdc. 64 hdc ✓

Rnd 2 (setup / increase rnd): Ch 1, hdc in same st as join and in each of next 19 hdc (20 hdc for the back), 3 hdc in next hdc and place a marker in the center hdc of those 3 (raglan), hdc in each of next 10 hdc (sleeve), 3 hdc in next hdc and mark the center hdc (raglan), hdc in each of next 20 hdc (front), 3 hdc in next hdc and mark the center hdc (raglan), hdc in each of next 10 hdc (sleeve), 3 hdc in last hdc and mark the center hdc (raglan), join with sl st in first hdc.

Stitch check: 20 + 3 + 10 + 3 + 20 + 3 + 10 + 3 = 72 hdc ✓
(4 raglan stitches each replaced by 3 hdc → 8 increases → 64 + 8 = 72 ✓)

You now have 4 marked raglan stitches dividing the round into back (20), sleeve (10), front (20), sleeve (10), plus the extra stitches from the increases.

Increase rounds Rnd 3: Ch 1, *hdc in each hdc to the next marked st, 3 hdc in the marked st and move the marker to the center hdc of those 3; rep from * 3 more times, hdc in any remaining sts to the end of the rnd, join with sl st in first hdc. 80 hdc (72 + 8 = 80 ✓)

Rnds 4–10 (4–11, 4–12): Repeat Rnd 3 — work 3 hdc in each of the 4 marked raglan stitches every round.

After each increase round the count grows by 8:

2T: 9 increase rounds total (Rnds 2–10) → 64 + (8 × 9) = 136 hdc ✓
3T: 10 increase rounds (Rnds 2–11) → 64 + (8 × 10) = 144 hdc ✓
4T: 11 increase rounds (Rnds 2–12) → 64 + (8 × 11) = 152 hdc ✓

Section counts at the end of increases (between the 4 marked raglan stitches):

• 2T (136 sts): back 38, raglan 1, sleeve 28, raglan 1, front 38, raglan 1, sleeve 28, raglan 1 (38 + 1 + 28 + 1 + 38 + 1 + 28 + 1 = 136 ✓)
• 3T (144 sts): back 40, raglan 1, sleeve 30, raglan 1, front 40, raglan 1, sleeve 30, raglan 1 (40 + 1 + 30 + 1 + 40 + 1 + 30 + 1 = 144 ✓)
• 4T (152 sts): back 42, raglan 1, sleeve 32, raglan 1, front 42, raglan 1, sleeve 32, raglan 1 (42 + 1 + 32 + 1 + 42 + 1 + 32 + 1 = 152 ✓)

Even yoke rounds (no increases) Next 5 (4, 3) rnds: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc around, slipping markers up as you go so you can still see the raglan lines. Join with sl st in first hdc.

Stitch count remains 136 (144, 152) hdc ✓

Yoke totals 15 hdc rounds (1 neck + 9 (10, 11) increase + 5 (4, 3) even).
15 rounds × 4" / 11 rounds = 5½" / 14 cm yoke depth ✓ (target for ages 2–4 is 5–5½").

The yoke should measure about 5½" (14 cm) from the neck edge to the last round. If you are short of that depth, work extra even rounds. If you have already reached 5½" and still have even rounds left, skip ahead — fit matters more than the round count.

Separate the Sleeves

You will now put each sleeve on hold, chain across the underarm, and continue on the body only. The 4 raglan stitches stay with the body (2 on the back, 2 on the front).

Separation round: Ch 1, hdc in same st as join and in each of next 38 (40, 42) hdc (this is the back section + 1 raglan = 39 (41, 43) hdc so far), ch 6 for the underarm, skip the next 28 (30, 32) sleeve sts, hdc in next 40 (42, 44) hdc (raglan + front + raglan), ch 6 for the other underarm, skip the next 28 (30, 32) sleeve sts, hdc in last raglan st, join with sl st in first hdc.

Place the skipped sleeve stitches on scrap yarn or stitch holders as you skip them (one holder per sleeve).

Body stitch count:

• 2T: 39 + 6 + 40 + 6 + 1 = 92 hdc ✓ (92 ÷ 3.5 = 26¼" chest ✓)
• 3T: 41 + 6 + 42 + 6 + 1 = 96 hdc ✓ (96 ÷ 3.5 = 27½" chest ✓)
• 4T: 43 + 6 + 44 + 6 + 1 = 100 hdc ✓ (100 ÷ 3.5 = 28½" chest ✓)

Remove the 4 raglan markers; they are no longer needed.

Body

Next rnd: Ch 1, hdc in each hdc and in each of the 6 underarm chains around, join with sl st in first hdc. 92 (96, 100) hdc ✓

Continue working even hdc rounds until the body measures 7½ (8½, 9½)" / 19 (21.5, 24) cm from the underarm, or until it is 1½" (4 cm) shorter than the length you want.

Hem (sc BLO ribbing) The BLO ribbing pulls in slightly and looks like a simple knit rib. It is still just single crochet — beginner friendly.

Hem rnds 1–6: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join with sl st in first sc. 92 (96, 100) sc ✓

Six rounds of sc BLO measure about 1½" (4 cm). Work 1 more or 1 fewer round if you want a deeper or shallower hem.

Fasten off. Total body length from underarm = 9 (10, 11)" / 23 (25.5, 28) cm ✓
Total garment length from shoulder ≈ 14½ (15½, 16½)" / 37 (39.5, 42) cm ✓

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same way. Use the yarn tail at the underarm later to close any gap.

Join yarn with sl st in the center of the underarm chain (the 3rd or 4th of the 6 underarm chains), so the sleeve “seam” sits under the arm.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, hdc in the same underarm ch and in each remaining underarm ch, then hdc in each of the 28 (30, 32) held sleeve stitches, join with sl st in first hdc. Underarm 6 + sleeve 28 (30, 32) = 34 (36, 38) hdc ✓

If a small hole appears at either corner where the underarm meets the yoke, you may pick up 1 extra stitch in that corner and hdc2tog it with the next stitch on the following round so the count stays 34 (36, 38).

Work 2 (3, 3) even hdc rounds.

Decrease rnd: Ch 1, hdc2tog, hdc in each st to last 2 sts, hdc2tog, join with sl st in first hdc. 32 (34, 36) hdc (2 stitches decreased ✓)

Work 2 (3, 3) even hdc rounds, then work another Decrease rnd.

Repeat this pair (even rounds + Decrease rnd) until you have worked the Decrease rnd 6 times total.

34 (36, 38) − (2 × 6) = 22 (24, 26) hdc ✓

Then work even hdc rounds (no more decreases) until the sleeve measures 7½ (8½, 9½)" / 19 (21.5, 24) cm from the underarm, or 1½" (4 cm) short of the desired sleeve length.

Cuff (sc BLO ribbing) Cuff rnds 1–6: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join with sl st in first sc. 22 (24, 26) sc ✓

Fasten off. Sleeve length from underarm = 9 (10, 11)" / 23 (25.5, 28) cm ✓

Repeat for the second sleeve.

Short-sleeve option (a true “top”)

After Sleeve Rnd 1, work even hdc until the sleeve measures 1½ (2, 2)" / 4 (5, 5) cm from the underarm. Skip all decreases. Work 4 rnds of sc BLO for a short cuff, fasten off. Repeat on the other sleeve. Yarn used will be closer to 320 (370, 420) yards / 295 (340, 385) meters.

Finishing

Neck edging With RS facing, join yarn at the center back of the neck. Ch 1, sc in each st around the original neck edge, join with sl st in first sc. 64 sc. Fasten off.

Work this round at a firm (not tight) tension so the neck sits neatly but still stretches over the head. If the neck feels too wide on the child, redo the edging with US G/6 (4 mm). If it feels snug, redo it more loosely or add a second sc round.

Weave in ends Weave in all tails on the wrong side. Use the underarm tails to sew shut any small holes at the armhole corners with a few tidy stitches.

Block Soak in cool water with a little wool wash (or follow the ball-band). Roll in a towel to press out water. Lay flat, pat into shape to the finished measurements, and let dry. Do not stretch the ribbed hem or cuffs.

Schematic (finished measurements)

                    neck ~18¼"
                 ________________
                /   yoke 5½"     \
               /                  \
     sleeve   |  chest             |  sleeve
   9 (10, 11)"|  26¼ (27½, 28½)"  | 9 (10, 11)"
              |                    |
              |  body              |
              |  9 (10, 11)"       |
              |____________________|
                 hem 1½"

Upper sleeve: 9¾ (10¼, 10¾)"
Cuff: 6¼ (6¾, 7½)"
Total length: 14½ (15½, 16½)"

Fit and customization

• Length: For a tunic, add 1–2" of hdc before the hem. For a cropped top, subtract 1".
• Sleeves: Try on before the cuff. Toddler sleeve length varies; stop when the cuff will sit where you want it.
• Growing room: 3" of chest ease is already built in. If you want more, go up a size.
• Stripes: Change color at any join. Cut the old color, join the new one, and weave in as you go. Two-round stripes in the yoke look especially neat on a raglan.

Care

This garment is designed for real toddler life. Follow the yarn label; most machine-washable worsted yarns can be washed on a gentle/cold cycle and laid flat to dry (or tumbled low if the label allows). Wash before the first wear if the yarn recommends it. Avoid fabric softener on wool blends.

Make it, wash it, let them play.