Men’s Top-Down Raglan Pullover with Bouffant Sleeves & Col Cheminée

A seamless men’s pullover worked from the top down with classic raglan lines, a tall standing cheminée collar and full bouffant (balloon) sleeves that gather into neat ribbed cuffs. Intermediate level.

Difficulty

Intermediate

Sizes

S (M, L, XL, 2XL) To fit chest: 91 (101, 112, 122, 132) cm (36 (40, 44, 48, 52)") Shown in size M.

Finished Measurements

Chest circumference: 100 (110, 120, 130, 140) cm (39½ (43¼, 47¼, 51¼, 55)") Yoke depth (neck to underarm): approx. 23 (24.5, 26, 28.5, 31.5) cm (9 (9¾, 10¼, 11¼, 12½)") Body length from underarm (excluding hem): 42 (43, 44, 45, 46) cm (16½ (17, 17¼, 17¾, 18)") Sleeve length from underarm (excluding cuff): 42 (43, 44, 45, 46) cm (16½ (17, 17¼, 17¾, 18)") Positive ease: approx. 5–10 cm (2–4")

Yarn

Worsted weight yarn (approx. 100 m / 50 g) Meterage: 1050 (1150, 1300, 1450, 1600) m (1150 (1260, 1420, 1590, 1750) yds) Example: 11 (12, 13, 15, 16) balls of a smooth wool or wool-blend worsted.

Needles

• 4 mm circular needle, 60–80 cm long (collar, hems, cuffs)
• 4.5 mm circular needle, 80–100 cm long (body & yoke)
• 4.5 mm DPNs or short circular / magic loop (sleeves) (Or sizes required to obtain tension)

Notions

• Stitch markers (4 distinct + 1 unique for beginning of round)
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Tapestry needle
• Optional: row counter

Tension

20 sts and 28 rounds = 10 cm (4") over stocking stitch on 4.5 mm needles, measured after blocking. (Check tension carefully — balloon sleeves magnify any discrepancy.)

Abbreviations (UK)

k = knit
p = purl
st(s) = stitch(es)
rnd(s) = round(s)
pm = place marker
sm = slip marker
slm = slip marker
m1L = make one left (lift strand between sts from front to back, k through back loop)
m1R = make one right (lift strand between sts from back to front, k through front loop)
k2tog = knit 2 together
ssk = slip, slip, knit (slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, k the 2 slipped sts tog through back loop)
st st = stocking stitch (k every rnd)
rib = ribbing
BOR = beginning of round
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
wyif = with yarn in front
w&t = wrap and turn

Notes

• Worked entirely in the round; no seaming.
• Raglan increases are worked every other round: m1R before each marker pair, m1L after (8 sts increased per increase round).
• Bouffant sleeves: no sleeve decreases until the final 8–10 cm so the fabric remains full and puffs above the cuff.
• Col cheminée: tall, firm 2×2 rib that stands up around the neck; work tightly.
• Short-row shaping raises the back neck for a better men’s fit.
• Try on as you go — top-down construction allows easy length adjustment.
• When instructed to work “to 1 st before marker”, the marker sits between the two raglan “seam” stitches.

Pattern

Col Cheminée (Chimney Collar)

With 4 mm circular needle and long-tail or cable cast-on, cast on 84 (88, 92, 96, 100) sts. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist; place unique BOR marker.

Work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) every round until collar measures 12 cm (4¾") from cast-on edge (or desired standing height; 10–14 cm is typical for a cheminée).

Change to 4.5 mm circular needle.

Set-up for Raglan & Short-Row Back Neck

Set-up round: k28 (30, 30, 32, 32) (Back), pm, k14 (14, 16, 16, 18) (Right Sleeve), pm, k28 (30, 30, 32, 32) (Front), pm, k14 (14, 16, 16, 18) (Left Sleeve). BOR marker is already in place at start of Back. (4 raglan markers + BOR)

Short-row shaping (worked flat on Back only for higher back neck): Short row 1 (RS): k to 1 st before first sleeve marker, w&t. Short row 2 (WS): p to 1 st before last sleeve marker (i.e., across Back), w&t. Short row 3: k to 4 sts before previous wrap, w&t. Short row 4: p to 4 sts before previous wrap, w&t. Short row 5: k to 4 sts before previous wrap, w&t. Short row 6: p to 4 sts before previous wrap, w&t. Next row (RS): k to BOR, picking up and knitting each wrap together with its st as you meet it. Next rnd: k all sts around, picking up remaining wraps.

Yoke

Raglan Increase Round: *k to 1 st before marker, m1R, k1, sm, k1, m1L; rep from * 3 more times, k to end. (8 sts increased)

Next Round: k all sts.

Repeat the last 2 rounds a further 31 (33, 35, 39, 43) times — total 32 (34, 36, 40, 44) increase rounds.

Stitch count after all increases:

• Back: 92 (98, 102, 112, 120) sts
• Right Sleeve: 78 (82, 88, 96, 106) sts
• Front: 92 (98, 102, 112, 120) sts
• Left Sleeve: 78 (82, 88, 96, 106) sts
• Total: 340 (360, 380, 416, 452) sts

Work even in st st (if needed) until yoke depth measures 23 (24.5, 26, 28.5, 31.5) cm (9 (9¾, 10¼, 11¼, 12½)") from base of collar at centre Back, or desired armhole depth. End after a plain knit round, ready for BOR.

Divide Body and Sleeves

Division round: k92 (98, 102, 112, 120) Back sts, place next 78 (82, 88, 96, 106) Right Sleeve sts on holder or waste yarn, cast on 8 (12, 18, 18, 20) underarm sts, k92 (98, 102, 112, 120) Front sts, place next 78 (82, 88, 96, 106) Left Sleeve sts on holder, cast on 8 (12, 18, 18, 20) underarm sts.
Place BOR marker at centre of underarm cast-on (or leave at start of Back — consistent placement is fine).

Body now has 200 (220, 240, 260, 280) sts.

Body

Work even in st st until body measures 42 (43, 44, 45, 46) cm (16½ (17, 17¼, 17¾, 18)") from underarm, or 6 cm (2½") less than total desired length.

Change to 4 mm needle. Hem: work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 6 cm (2½"). Cast off loosely in rib (use larger needle or tubular cast-off if preferred).

Bouffant Sleeves (both alike)

Return 78 (82, 88, 96, 106) held sleeve sts to 4.5 mm DPNs or short circular.
With RS facing, rejoin yarn at centre of underarm. Pick up and knit 4 (6, 9, 9, 10) sts along first half of underarm cast-on, k across sleeve sts, pick up and knit 4 (6, 9, 9, 10) sts along remaining underarm, pm for BOR.
Sleeve sts: 86 (94, 106, 114, 126) sts.
(Note: the extra picked-up sts create a smooth join; they will be decreased away in the first few centimetres if desired, or simply left for extra underarm ease. For cleanest balloon, decrease the 8 (12, 18, 18, 20) underarm sts evenly over the next 8–10 rounds back to 78 (82, 88, 96, 106) sts, then proceed.)

Work even in st st on 78 (82, 88, 96, 106) sts until sleeve measures 34 (35, 36, 37, 38) cm (13½ (13¾, 14¼, 14½, 15)") from underarm (i.e., leave approx. 8 cm / 3¼" for the decrease zone + cuff).

Shape balloon into cuff Decrease for gather (work these rounds while still on 4.5 mm needles): Dec rnd 1: *k2, k2tog; rep from * to last 2 (2, 0, 2, 2) sts, k2 (2, 0, 2, 2).
78 sts → 59 (62, 66, 73, 80) approx. (adjust final 1–2 sts by k2tog or k as needed to land on a multiple of 4 for rib).
Target after all decs: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts.

Work 2–3 plain rnds. Dec rnd 2: *k1, k2tog; rep from * around, adjusting with k or k2tog at end so that you finish with exactly 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts.
(Example math for M: from 82 → after first phased decs reach ~58–60, then k1, k2tog yields 40–44; tweak last sts to hit 44 exactly.)

If preferred, distribute the total decreases (38 (38, 40, 44, 50) sts to remove) evenly over 6–8 decrease rounds spaced every other round for a smoother taper while still retaining the puffed look.

Change to 4 mm needles. Cuff: work 2×2 rib (k2, p2) for 8 cm (3¼"). Cast off loosely in rib.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Finishing

Weave in all ends neatly on WS. Block gently to measurements, taking care not to flatten the balloon sleeves — pin the upper sleeve full and allow the fabric to dry with natural volume. The cheminée collar may be blocked standing or lightly steamed to encourage it to hold its height. Optional: fold cheminée collar in half to the inside and loosely whip-stitch for a double-layer mock-turtleneck look, or leave unfolded for full chimney height.

Stitch Count Validation Summary

• CO + 8 × 32 (34, 36, 40, 44) inc rnds = 340 (360, 380, 416, 452) yoke sts ✓
• Back + Front 184 (196, 204, 224, 240) + underarm 16 (24, 36, 36, 40) = 200 (220, 240, 260, 280) body sts = 100 (110, 120, 130, 140) cm at 20 sts/10 cm ✓
• Sleeve at divide 78 (82, 88, 96, 106) sts maintained for balloon, then reduced to 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) cuff sts ✓

Enjoy your seamless men’s raglan with dramatic bouffant sleeves and cosy col cheminée!