Blossom Matinee Jacket

Crochet pattern · 3–6 months · Intermediate · UK terminology

A classic open-front baby matinee jacket worked seamlessly from the top down. A snug half-treble raglan yoke gives a neat, warm fit; the lower body falls in a light V-stitch skirt. Finished with double-crochet button bands, a five-button closure and a picot hem.

This pattern is written in UK crochet terms. UK dc = US sc · UK htr = US hdc · UK tr = US dc

Materials

Yarn: Worsted weight (approx. UK 10-ply / light Aran), soft and machine-washable (merino, cotton blend or baby acrylic).

• 200 g / 360–400 m
• 2 × 100 g balls is typical

Hooks:

• 5 mm (main fabric)
• 4 mm (bands, cuffs, edging)

Notions:

• 4 stitch markers
• 5 buttons, 12–15 mm diameter
• Yarn needle
• Scissors

Suggested colour: Cream, pale lemon, mint or baby grey.

Tension (gauge)

16 htr and 12 rows = 10 × 10 cm (4 × 4 in) using 5 mm hook, unblocked, measured over htr.

Work a swatch at least 12 × 12 cm and measure the centre 10 cm.

This fabric should feel firm, not drapey. Firm tension keeps the yoke in shape and the chest measurement accurate.

• Too few stitches to 10 cm (loose): try a 4.5 mm hook
• Too many stitches to 10 cm (tight): try a 5.5 mm hook

V-stitch rows do not need a separate tension square; they are slightly more open and give the skirt a gentle A-line.

Size

One size: 3–6 months

Ease is built in so the jacket layers over bodysuits.

Abbreviations (UK)

Special stitches

V-st (V-stitch): (1 tr, ch 1, 1 tr) in the same stitch or space.

Picot: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook.

htr2tog: yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through, yrh, insert hook in following st, yrh, pull through, yrh, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

dc2tog: insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through, insert hook in following st, yrh, pull through, yrh, pull through all 3 loops.

Pattern notes

• Work in both loops unless stated.
• Htr rows: ch 2 at the beg of every row or round. This turning chain does not count as a stitch. Work the first htr in the first stitch. At the end of the row, do not work into the tch from the previous row.
• Tr / V-st rows: ch 3 counts as the first tr. Ch 4 counts as 1 tr + ch 1 where stated.
• Four raglan lines are worked as (1 htr, ch 2, 1 htr) in each ch-2 space. Mark each ch-2 space and move the markers up every row.
• Stitch counts appear in parentheses at the end of each row/round.
• The jacket is worked flat in rows through the yoke and body (it is an open-front garment). Sleeves are worked in joined rounds.
• Right Front = the front on the baby’s right-hand side as worn. With RS facing you, that edge is on the left.
• Sew buttons on very securely. Check them often. This garment is not a toy.

Jacket

Yoke

With 5 mm hook, ch 44.

Row 1 (RS): 1 htr in 3rd ch from hook and in each of next 4 ch (5 htr), (1 htr, ch 2, 1 htr) in next ch, 1 htr in each of next 6 ch, (1 htr, ch 2, 1 htr) in next ch, 1 htr in each of next 16 ch, (1 htr, ch 2, 1 htr) in next ch, 1 htr in each of next 6 ch, (1 htr, ch 2, 1 htr) in next ch, 1 htr in each of last 5 ch. Place a marker in each of the 4 ch-2 sps. (46 htr, 4 ch-2 sps) Sections after Row 1: Right Front 6, Sleeve 8, Back 18, Sleeve 8, Left Front 6. (5 + 5 body/sleeve sts from the chain, plus 1 htr from each raglan side → 6 / 8 / 18 ✓)

Raglan increase row (used for Rows 2–12): Ch 2, turn, *1 htr in each htr to next marked ch-2 sp, (1 htr, ch 2, 1 htr) in ch-2 sp, SM; rep from * 3 times more, 1 htr in each htr to end.

Each of these rows adds 8 htr (2 htr at each of 4 raglan lines).

Work Rows 2–12. Yoke should measure 10 cm (4 in) from the foundation chain to the last row.

Divide body and sleeves

Row 13 (RS): Ch 2, turn, 1 htr in each of 17 Right Front htr, ch 4, skip next ch-2 sp, skip 30 Sleeve htr, skip next ch-2 sp, 1 htr in each of 40 Back htr, ch 4, skip next ch-2 sp, skip 30 Sleeve htr, skip next ch-2 sp, 1 htr in each of 17 Left Front htr. (74 htr, two ch-4 underarm chains) Leave the skipped sleeve stitches to rest on a spare length of yarn or a stitch holder.

Row 14 (WS): Ch 2, turn, 1 htr in each of 17 htr, 1 htr in each of 4 underarm ch, 1 htr in each of 40 htr, 1 htr in each of 4 underarm ch, 1 htr in each of 17 htr. (82 htr) (17 + 4 + 40 + 4 + 17 = 82 ✓)

Body (V-stitch skirt)

Row 15 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), skip next htr, *(1 tr, ch 1, 1 tr) in next htr, skip next htr; rep from * until 2 htr rem, (1 tr, ch 1, 1 tr) in next htr, 1 tr in last htr. (40 V-sts, 2 edge tr)

Tip: you should finish with a plain tr in the last stitch, matching the ch-3 at the start of the row. If you are 1 stitch out, check that each V-st is worked into a single htr with 1 htr skipped between.

Row 16: Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), turn, (1 tr, ch 1, 1 tr) in each ch-1 sp across, 1 tr in top of tch. (40 V-sts, 2 edge tr)

Rows 17–26: Rep Row 16 ten more times. (12 V-st rows in total)

The V-stitch section should measure about 15 cm (6 in). Whole piece from shoulder to last V-st row about 27 cm (10½ in) before edging.

Fasten off. Weave in the body yarn end.

Sleeves (both alike)

With RS facing and 5 mm hook, join yarn in the centre of one underarm ch-4.

Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), work 2 htr across the first half of the underarm chain, 1 htr in each of the 30 sleeve htr, work 2 htr across the rem underarm chain, sl st to first htr to join. (34 htr) (30 + 4 = 34 ✓)

If a small hole appears at either raglan corner, pull the first or last underarm htr slightly to the side to close it as you work, keeping the count at 34.

Rounds 2–15: Ch 2, 1 htr in each htr around, sl st to first htr. (34 htr) Do not turn between rounds.

Change to 4 mm hook.

Round 16 (decrease): Ch 1, *1 dc in each of next 4 sts, dc2tog; rep from * to last 4 sts, 1 dc in each of last 4 sts, sl st to first dc. (28 dc) (5 × dc2tog → 34 − 6 = 28 ✓) (Work the last 4 dc even: 5 repeats of 6 sts use 30, plus 4 = 34 ✓)

Rounds 17–18: Ch 1, 1 dc in each dc around, sl st to first dc. (28 dc)

Fasten off.

Work the second sleeve to match.

Finishing

Front bands

With 4 mm hook and RS facing, join yarn at the lower corner of the Right Front (as worn — this is the left-hand edge when the RS is facing you).

Pick up and work 40 dc evenly along the Right Front edge, from hem to neck.

Pickup guide: 1 dc in each htr row-end and 2 dc in each tr/V-st row-end, plus 1 extra at each end if needed to reach 40. (14 htr row-ends + 12 V-st row-ends × 2 = 14 + 24 = 38, plus 2 = 40 ✓)

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, turn, 1 dc in each dc. (40 dc)

Row 2 — buttonholes (RS): Ch 1, turn, 1 dc in each of first 3 dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, *1 dc in each of next 6 dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc; rep from * 3 times more, 1 dc in each of last 3 dc. (5 buttonholes, 40 sts including ch-2 sps) (3 + 2 + 4 × (6 + 2) + 3 = 3 + 2 + 32 + 3 = 40 ✓)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn, 1 dc in each dc and 2 dc in each ch-2 buttonhole sp. (40 dc)

Fasten off.

With RS facing, join yarn at the neck corner of the Left Front and pick up 40 dc evenly down to the hem (same rate as the other front).

Work 3 rows of dc, with no buttonholes. (40 dc each row)

Fasten off.

Neckband

With 4 mm hook and RS facing, join yarn at the top inner corner of the Right Front band.

Work 1 row of dc evenly around the neck edge, including the top edges of both button bands. Work 1 dc in each foundation ch and 1 dc in each band row-end. Do not pull this row tight — a baby needs the neck to sit comfortably.

Next row: Ch 1, turn, 1 dc in each dc.

Fasten off.

Picot hem

With 4 mm hook and RS facing, join yarn at the lower Left Front corner (so you work across the hem towards the Right Front).

Row 1: Ch 1, 1 dc in each st across the hem, working through the edge of each front band as well so the hem runs from band to band. Aim for a multiple of 4 sts; 2 dc in a st at each band if needed to flatten the corner.

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, *1 dc in each of next 3 sts, picot; rep from * to last 1–3 sts, 1 dc in each rem st.

Fasten off.

Buttons and ends

Weave in all remaining ends.

Sew the five buttons to the Left Front band, opposite the buttonholes. Take the yarn through each button at least four times and finish with a secure knot on the WS. If you can, sew a small backing button or a tiny disc of felt on the inside so the stitches cannot pull through.

Lightly steam-block or wet-block the jacket to the finished measurements. Pin the yoke and sleeves flat; allow the V-stitch skirt to open. Do not press the picots — they should stand up.

Schematic (finished measurements)

              neck opening
           ________________
          /   raglan yoke   \         yoke depth 10 cm
         /                   \
        /     chest 51 cm     \
       |                       |
       |     V-stitch body     |      length 28 cm
       |                       |
       |_______________________|      picot hem
              sleeve 14 cm
              upper arm 21 cm

Tips for success

• Count the four raglan sections at the end of every yoke row. Catching a missed increase on Row 4 is easy; catching it on Row 12 is not.
• The first V-st row is the only one worked into stitches rather than spaces. After that you always work into the ch-1 sps, which is much faster.
• If the underarm feels tight on Row 13, the ch-4 is correct — the next row of htr into those chains adds the missing width.
• For a boy, swap the buttonholes to the Left Front if you prefer traditional placement.

Pattern mathematically locked: foundation 44 ch · yoke 46 → 134 htr · body 82 htr · 40 V-sts + 2 edge tr · sleeves 34 htr → 28 dc cuffs · bands 40 dc with 5 buttonholes.