Classic 4ply Baby Matinee Jacket

A timeless top-down raglan matinee jacket in 4ply, worked in one piece to the underarm. Ribbed hem and cuffs keep the edges neat; a picot band frames the fronts and neck. Intermediate.

Skill level: Intermediate

Sizes

0–3 months (3–6 months)

Figures in brackets refer to 3–6 months. Where only one figure is given, it applies to both sizes.

Finished measurements

Ease is about 4–5 cm (1½–2 in) at the chest — a classic baby jacket fit, not oversized.

Materials

Yarn: 4ply (fingering) baby yarn, approx. 200–226 m per 50 g.

• 0–3 months: 150 g / 400 m (3 × 50 g balls)
• 3–6 months: 200 g / 600 m (4 × 50 g balls)

Allow a spare ball for tension swatch and slight differences between brands. Traditional colours: white, cream, lemon, pale pink, pale blue, or mint.

Hooks:

• 3.50 mm (UK 9) for the main fabric
• 3.00 mm (UK 11) for ribbing and edging

Notions:

• 4 stitch markers
• 4 (5) buttons, 12 mm diameter
• Tapestry needle
• Sewing needle and matching thread for buttons

Tension (gauge)

22 treble crochet and 12 rows = 10 cm × 10 cm using 3.50 mm hook, measured over treble fabric, unblocked then gently smoothed.

Work a swatch of at least 26 tr × 16 rows. Measure the centre 22 sts and 12 rows. If you have too few stitches in 10 cm, try a smaller hook; if too many, try a larger hook.

This tension is critical. A difference of 1 stitch in 10 cm changes the chest by about 2 cm.

Abbreviations (UK)

tr2tog: (Yoh, insert hook in next st, yoh, pull through, yoh, pull through 2 loops) twice, yoh, pull through all 3 loops on hook. (1 st decreased)

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in first of these 3 ch.

Notes

1. The jacket is a cardigan, not a pullover: it is worked back and forth in rows through the yoke and body, with a front opening.
2. Ch 3 at the start of a row or round counts as 1 tr throughout.
3. Raglan increases are 3 tr worked into the marked centre stitch. Move the marker up into the centre stitch of the new 3-tr group every row.
4. Work the foundation chain loosely (or use a 4.00 mm hook for the chain only) so the neck sits comfortably.
5. Sleeves are worked in joined rounds without turning.
6. Safety: Buttons on infant garments must be sewn on extremely firmly with several passes of thread, and checked often. Do not use buttons on garments for babies who mouth clothing if a securely fastened alternative (no ties around the neck) is required by the recipient.

Jacket

Yoke

With 3.50 mm hook, ch 50 (58) loosely.

Row 1 (RS): 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of next 6 (8) ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 (5) ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 20 (22) ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of next 4 (5) ch, 3 tr in next ch, 1 tr in each of last 8 (10) ch. Turn. 56 (64) tr. (Foundation 48 (56) working stitches + 8 increase stitches = 56 (64) ✓)

Pm in the centre stitch of each 3-tr group. (4 raglan markers)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), *1 tr in each st to next marked st, 3 tr in marked st, move marker to centre st of these 3 tr; rep from * 3 more times, 1 tr in each st to end. Turn. 64 (72) tr. (56 (64) + 8 = 64 (72) ✓)

Rows 3–11 (3–12): As Row 2.

Stitch counts at the end of each increase row:

0–3 months stops after Row 11: 136 tr (56 + 10 × 8 = 136 ✓). 3–6 months stops after Row 12: 152 tr (64 + 11 × 8 = 152 ✓).

Yoke should measure approx. 9 (10) cm from the foundation chain, with one divide row still to work.

Section check before dividing (sts either side of the 4 marked centre sts):

• 0–3: 19, marker, 26 (sleeve), marker, 42 (back), marker, 26 (sleeve), marker, 19. Total 19 + 26 + 42 + 26 + 19 + 4 markers = 136 ✓
• 3–6: 22, marker, 29 (sleeve), marker, 46 (back), marker, 29 (sleeve), marker, 22. Total 22 + 29 + 46 + 29 + 22 + 4 markers = 152 ✓

Divide for body and sleeves

Next row (divide): Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in each st to first marked st, 1 tr in marked st, ch 8, skip all stitches to the next marked st (left sleeve), 1 tr in marked st, 1 tr in each st to next marked st, 1 tr in marked st, ch 8, skip all stitches to the next marked st (right sleeve), 1 tr in marked st, 1 tr in each st to end. Turn.

100 (110) sts, counting each chain as 1 stitch.

• 0–3: 20 + 8 + 44 + 8 + 20 = 100 ✓
• 3–6: 23 + 8 + 48 + 8 + 23 = 110 ✓

Remove raglan markers. Leave the skipped sleeve stitches to be worked later.

Body

Next row: Ch 3, 1 tr in each tr and in each ch to end. Turn. 100 (110) tr.

Work even in treble crochet until the body measures 13 (16) cm from the divide row, ending with a WS row. (Approx. 16 (19) rows from the divide, including the divide row itself: 16 rows × 10/12 cm = 13.3 cm ✓; 19 rows × 10/12 cm = 15.8 cm ✓.)

Do not fasten off. Change to 3.00 mm hook.

Hem ribbing

Rib row 1 (RS): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), 1 dc in each st to end. Turn. 100 (110) dc.

Rib rows 2–8: Ch 1, 1 dc BLO in each st to end. Turn.

Fasten off.

Hem ribbing is 8 rows ≈ 3 cm. Total length from back neck: 10 (11) cm yoke + 13 (16) cm body + 3 cm ribbing = 26 (30) cm ✓.

Sleeves

With RS facing and 3.50 mm hook, join yarn in the centre of one underarm chain.

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as 1 tr), work 1 tr in each remaining underarm ch, 1 tr in each skipped sleeve st, 1 tr in each remaining underarm ch; if a small gap appears at either underarm corner, work tr2tog over the gap rather than adding extra stitches. Join with sl st in top of ch-3. Do not turn. 34 (37) tr. (0–3: 26 sleeve + 8 underarm = 34 ✓; 3–6: 29 sleeve + 8 underarm = 37 ✓)

Work in continuous joined rounds as follows.

0–3 months only

Round 2: Ch 3, 1 tr in each st to end, sl st in top of ch-3. 34 tr.

Round 3 (dec): Ch 3, tr2tog, 1 tr in each st to last 2 sts, tr2tog, sl st in top of ch-3. 32 tr. (34 − 2 = 32 ✓)

Rounds 4–5: As Round 2. 32 tr.

Round 6: As Round 3. 30 tr.

Rounds 7–8: As Round 2. 30 tr.

Round 9: As Round 3. 28 tr.

Rounds 10–11: As Round 2. 28 tr.

Round 12: As Round 3. 26 tr. (4 decrease rounds × 2 sts = 8; 34 − 8 = 26 ✓)

Sleeve treble section measures approx. 10 cm (12 rounds × 10/12 cm = 10 cm ✓).

3–6 months only

Round 2: Ch 3, 1 tr in each st to end, sl st in top of ch-3. 37 tr.

Round 3 (dec): Ch 3, tr2tog, 1 tr in each st to last 2 sts, tr2tog, sl st in top of ch-3. 35 tr. (37 − 2 = 35 ✓)

Rounds 4–5: As Round 2.

Round 6: As Round 3. 33 tr.

Rounds 7–8: As Round 2.

Round 9: As Round 3. 31 tr.

Rounds 10–11: As Round 2.

Round 12: As Round 3. 29 tr.

Rounds 13–14: As Round 2.

Round 15: As Round 3. 27 tr.

Round 16: As Round 2. 27 tr. (5 decrease rounds × 2 sts = 10; 37 − 10 = 27 ✓)

Sleeve treble section measures approx. 13 cm (16 rounds × 10/12 cm = 13.3 cm ✓).

Both sizes: Fasten off the 3.50 mm yarn. Join 3.00 mm hook.

Cuffs

Cuff round 1: Ch 1, 1 dc in each st around, sl st in first dc. 26 (27) dc.

Cuff rounds 2–8: Ch 1, 1 dc BLO in each st around, sl st in first dc.

Fasten off.

Cuff ≈ 3 cm. Total sleeve length: 10 (13) cm + 3 cm = 13 (16) cm ✓.

Work the second sleeve to match.

Front and neck edging

With RS facing, 3.00 mm hook, and starting at the lower right front corner as the garment will be worn (buttonholes sit on the right front), join yarn in the first hem stitch.

Pickup row: Ch 1, work dc evenly up the right front, around the neck, and down the left front, as follows:

• 1 dc in each dc row-end of the hem ribbing
• 2 dc in each tr row-end along the fronts
• 1 dc in each remaining loop of the foundation chain around the neck
• 3 dc in each of the 2 corners where the front edge meets the neck

Guide counts (adjust by 1 or 2 sts if needed so the edge lies flat):

• Each front: approx. 64 (72) dc
• Neck: 48 (56) dc
• Plus 2 extra sts at each neck corner

Do not turn if you prefer to work in one direction; or turn, as you wish — keep RS facing for the picot row if you turned.

Buttonhole row: Ch 1, 1 dc in each dc up the right front to the start of the yoke (the uppermost 10 (11) cm of the front edge). Along that yoke section only, work 4 (5) buttonholes evenly spaced, each buttonhole worked as ch 2, skip 2 dc, with 2 dc before the first hole and 2 dc after the last hole. Continue in dc around the neck (working 3 dc in each corner st) and down the left front. Turn.

Picot row (RS): Ch 1, *3 dc, 1 picot; rep from * along both fronts and around the neck, working 3 dc in each neck corner and ending with 1–2 dc if the count does not divide exactly by 3. Fasten off.

Finishing

1. Weave in all ends on the WS.
2. Close any small underarm gaps with a few stitches on the WS.
3. Sew 4 (5) buttons to the left front (as worn), opposite the buttonholes. Use sewing thread, take several firm passes through each button, and finish with a secure knot on the WS. Check they cannot be pulled off.
4. Block gently to the measurements above. For acrylic 4ply, use steam (do not let the iron rest on the fabric). For wool or wool-blend 4ply, wet-block and dry flat.

Schematic (measurements)

                    neck
              ┌──────────────┐
             /   yoke raglan  \
            /  10 (11) cm deep \
           /                    \
    ______/                      \______
   |  sleeve                      sleeve |
   | 13 (16) cm                  13 (16) |
   | upper arm 15.5 (17) cm              |
   |                                     |
   |         BODY, buttoned              |
   |         chest 46 (50) cm            |
   |                                     |
   |         total length                |
   |         26 (30) cm                  |
   |_____________________________________|
              hem ribbing 3 cm

Fronts overlap only by the width of the button band (about 1 cm) when fastened. Buttons sit on the yoke; the lower body hangs as a classic matinee.

Make it your own

• Contrast edging: Work the picot band and/or ribbing in a second pastel.
• Boyish finish: Omit picots and work 3 rows of plain dc for the front band instead.
• Extra length: Add treble rows to the body before the hem — each 2 rows add about 1.5 cm.
• Yarn: Any true 4ply that meets tension. If your yarn is a heavy 4ply (closer to sport), go down a hook and re-check tension before starting.