Classic Crochet Pullover

Beginner · Worsted Weight · Worked Flat in Pieces

A straight, classic crew-neck pullover in plain double crochet, finished with stretchy single-crochet ribbing at the hem, cuffs, and neck. The body and sleeves are worked flat from the bottom up and seamed. Designed with about 2–4" (5–10 cm) of positive ease.

Difficulty: Beginner

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust: 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" [86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm]

Instructions are written for Small, with the other sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Circle the numbers for your size before you begin.

Finished Measurements

Bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" [96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm] Length: 23 (24, 25, 26, 27)" [58.5 (61, 63.5, 66, 68.5) cm] Length to underarm: 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17)" [38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm] Armhole depth: 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)" [20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm] Shoulder width (each): 4¾ (5, 5¼, 5¾, 6)" [12 (12.5, 13.5, 14.5, 15) cm] Neck width: 7 (7¾, 8¼, 9, 9¾)" [18 (19.5, 21, 23, 25) cm] Sleeve length to underarm: 17½ (18, 18, 18½, 18½)" [44.5 (45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) cm] Upper arm: 12¾ (14, 15¼, 16¾, 18¾)" [32.5 (35.5, 38.5, 42.5, 47.5) cm] Cuff circumference: 8 (9, 9, 10, 10)" [20.5 (23, 23, 25.5, 25.5) cm]

Choose the size whose finished bust is 2–4" (5–10 cm) larger than your actual bust measurement.

Yarn

Worsted weight yarn (CYC Category 4), approximately 1200 (1400, 1650, 1900, 2200) yd [1100 (1280, 1510, 1740, 2010) m]

That is about 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) skeins of 100 g / 220 yd (200 m).

Any worsted wool, acrylic, or wool-blend that meets gauge will work. Smooth, light-colored yarn makes stitches easier to see.

Hook

US I/9 (5.5 mm), or size needed to obtain gauge.

Optional: US H/8 (5 mm) for ribbing and neckband if you prefer a firmer edge. The pattern is written for one hook so a beginner can work the whole sweater with the gauge hook.

Notions

• Yarn needle
• 4 stitch markers
• Scissors
• Measuring tape

Gauge

12 dc and 8 rows = 4" (10 cm) in double crochet, after blocking.

Ribbing: 16 sc BLO = 4" (10 cm) in height; 16 rows = 4" (10 cm) in width, slightly stretched.

Make a gauge swatch. Chain 18, dc in the 4th chain from the hook and in each chain across (16 dc). Work 10 rows of dc. Block, then measure the center 4" (10 cm).

• Too few stitches in 4" (10 cm) → go down a hook size.
• Too many stitches in 4" (10 cm) → go up a hook size.

Do not skip this step. Gauge controls the finished bust and length.

Abbreviations (US)

ch — chain st(s) — stitch(es) sc — single crochet dc — double crochet sl st — slip stitch BLO — back loop only dc2tog — double crochet 2 together (decrease 1) RS — right side WS — wrong side rep — repeat rem — remaining pm — place marker

dc2tog: Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook in following st, yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.

Notes

1. The pullover is worked flat in four pieces (back, front, two sleeves), then seamed.
2. Turning ch-3 counts as the first dc of every dc row. Do not work into the stitch at the base of the ch-3. Work the last dc of the row into the top of the previous row’s turning ch-3.
3. Turning ch-1 at the start of a sc row does not count as a stitch.
4. Ribbing is worked sideways (the chain is the ribbing height; rows become the width), then you rotate and work dc along the long edge. This gives a stretchy hem.
5. When a number of dc must be worked “evenly” along ribbing, use approximately 3 dc for every 4 ribbing row-ends, adjusting by 1 or 2 stitches so the stated total is exact.
6. “Work even” means continue in dc with no increases or decreases.
7. Right and left refer to the garment as worn.

Back

Hem ribbing

Ch 11, or enough to measure 2½" (6.5 cm).

Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. — 10 sc

Row 2: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st across, turn. — 10 sc

Rep Row 2 until you have 76 (84, 92, 100, 108) rows, or until the long edge measures 19 (21, 23, 25, 27)" [48.5 (53.5, 58.5, 63.5, 68.5) cm] slightly stretched. Do not fasten off.

Rotate the strip 90 degrees so the long edge is on top. You will now work into the row-ends.

Body

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 56 (62, 68, 74, 80) more dc evenly along the long edge of the ribbing (about 3 dc for every 4 row-ends), turn. — 57 (63, 69, 75, 81) dc (57 dc ÷ 3 dc per inch = 19" half-bust ✓; 19 × 2 = 38" finished bust in S ✓)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, turn. — 57 (63, 69, 75, 81) dc

Rep Row 2 until the piece measures 15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17)" [38 (39.5, 40.5, 42, 43) cm] from the bottom of the ribbing, ending with a WS row. You will have about 25 (26, 27, 28, 29) dc rows above the ribbing. (25 dc rows ÷ 2 rows per inch = 12.5" + 2.5" ribbing = 15" to underarm in S ✓)

Armholes

Next row (RS): Sl st in first 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across to last 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts, leave rem sts unworked, turn. — 49 (53, 57, 61, 65) dc (S: 57 − 4 − 4 = 49 ✓; M: 63 − 10 = 53 ✓; L: 69 − 12 = 57 ✓; XL: 75 − 14 = 61 ✓; 2XL: 81 − 16 = 65 ✓)

Work even in dc on these 49 (53, 57, 61, 65) sts until the armhole measures 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)" [20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm], about 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) rows from the skip-row. (16 rows ÷ 2 rows per inch = 8" armhole in S ✓; 15" + 8" = 23" total length ✓)

Fasten off, leaving a 24" (61 cm) tail for seaming.

Mark the center 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) sts for the back neck. The 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts on each side are the shoulders. (14 + 21 + 14 = 49 ✓; 15 + 23 + 15 = 53 ✓; 16 + 25 + 16 = 57 ✓; 17 + 27 + 17 = 61 ✓; 18 + 29 + 18 = 65 ✓)

Front

Work hem ribbing and body exactly as for the Back until the armholes are shaped and you have worked 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) rows even after the armhole skip-row. Piece should measure about 20 (21, 22, 23, 24)" [51 (53.5, 56, 58.5, 61) cm] from the bottom of the ribbing. (10 even armhole rows leave 6 rows / 3" for neck shaping ✓)

Stitch layout at the neck split: 19 (20, 21, 22, 23) right shoulder | 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) center | 19 (20, 21, 22, 23) left shoulder (19 + 11 + 19 = 49 ✓)

Shape right neck (as worn)

With RS facing, the right neck is the first group of stitches.

Divide row (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 18 (19, 20, 21, 22) sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked. — 19 (20, 21, 22, 23) dc

Neck decrease row: Ch 3, dc2tog (neck edge), dc in each st to end, turn. — 1 st decreased

Rep the Neck decrease row 4 more times (5 decrease rows total). — 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) dc (19 − 5 = 14 ✓; 20 − 5 = 15 ✓; 21 − 5 = 16 ✓; 22 − 5 = 17 ✓; 23 − 5 = 18 ✓)

Next row: Ch 3, dc in each st across, turn. — 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) dc

Armhole now matches the Back (6 neck rows = 3" ✓). Fasten off, leaving a 20" (51 cm) tail.

Shape left neck (as worn)

With RS facing, skip the center 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) sts. Join yarn with sl st in the next st.

Divide row (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each rem st across, turn. — 19 (20, 21, 22, 23) dc

Neck decrease row: Ch 3, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog (neck edge), turn. — 1 st decreased

Rep the Neck decrease row 4 more times (5 decrease rows total). — 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) dc

Next row: Ch 3, dc in each st across. — 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) dc

Fasten off, leaving a 20" (51 cm) tail.

Sleeves (make 2)

Cuff ribbing

Ch 11, or enough to measure 2½" (6.5 cm).

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. — 10 sc

Row 2: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st across, turn.

Rep Row 2 until you have 32 (36, 36, 40, 40) rows, or until the long edge measures 8 (9, 9, 10, 10)" [20.5 (23, 23, 25.5, 25.5) cm] slightly stretched. Do not fasten off.

Rotate so the long edge is on top.

Sleeve body

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 23 (25, 27, 29, 31) more dc evenly along the long edge, turn. — 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) dc

Row 2 (even): Ch 3, dc in each st across, turn.

Increase row: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in the same st (inc made), dc in each st to last st, 2 dc in last st (inc made), turn. — 2 sts increased

Work the Increase row on the rows given below; work all other rows even.

Small — 30 dc rows total before cap Increase every 4th row 7 times (rows 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28), then work rows 29–30 even. — 24 + 14 = 38 dc ✓

Medium — 31 dc rows total before cap Increase every 3rd row 8 times (rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24), then work rows 25–31 even. — 26 + 16 = 42 dc ✓

Large — 31 dc rows total before cap Increase every 3rd row 9 times (rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27), then work rows 28–31 even. — 28 + 18 = 46 dc ✓

XL — 32 dc rows total before cap Increase every 3rd row 10 times (rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30), then work rows 31–32 even. — 30 + 20 = 50 dc ✓

2XL — 32 dc rows total before cap Increase every other row 12 times (rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24), then work rows 25–32 even. — 32 + 24 = 56 dc ✓

Sleeve (including cuff) now measures about 17½ (18, 18, 18½, 18½)" [44.5 (45.5, 45.5, 47, 47) cm]. Upper arm is 38 (42, 46, 50, 56) dc = 12¾ (14, 15¼, 16¾, 18¾)" ✓

Sleeve cap

Cap row 1: Sl st in first 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts, ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across to last 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) sts, leave rem sts unworked, turn. — 30 (32, 34, 36, 40) dc (38 − 8 = 30 ✓; 42 − 10 = 32 ✓; 46 − 12 = 34 ✓; 50 − 14 = 36 ✓; 56 − 16 = 40 ✓)

Cap rows 2–5: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. After 4 decrease rows: — 22 (24, 26, 28, 32) dc (30 − 8 = 22 ✓; 32 − 8 = 24 ✓; 34 − 8 = 26 ✓; 36 − 8 = 28 ✓; 40 − 8 = 32 ✓)

Work even for 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) rows. — 22 (24, 26, 28, 32) dc

Next 4 rows: Ch 3, dc2tog, dc in each st to last 2 sts, dc2tog, turn. — 14 (16, 18, 20, 24) dc (22 − 8 = 14 ✓; 24 − 8 = 16 ✓; 26 − 8 = 18 ✓; 28 − 8 = 20 ✓; 32 − 8 = 24 ✓)

Fasten off, leaving a 30" (76 cm) tail.

Cap height is about 7½ (8, 8½, 8½, 9)" [19 (20.5, 21.5, 21.5, 23) cm], which eases into the armhole.

Finishing

Weave in short tails on the WS. Leave the long seaming tails attached.

Block

Block all four pieces to the schematic measurements. Pin to size, mist or wet-block according to the yarn label, and let dry completely. Blocking evens the dc fabric and makes seaming much easier.

Shoulder seams

With RS together (or WS together if you prefer a flatter mattress-stitch seam on the RS), sew each front shoulder to the matching back shoulder over 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts.

Use mattress stitch (yarn needle, working under the outer loops) or sl st crochet. The center 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) back sts remain open for the neck.

Neckband

With RS facing, join yarn at the left shoulder seam.

Round 1: Ch 1, work sc evenly around the neck opening:

• 1 sc in each st across the back neck
• 2 sc in each dc row-end down the left front neck
• 1 sc in each of the 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) center front sts
• 2 sc in each dc row-end up the right front neck

Aim for 60 (64, 68, 72, 76) sc. Join with sl st to the first sc. Do not turn.

If the neckband flares, you have too many stitches — remove 4 evenly. If it pulls, add 4 evenly.

Rounds 2–5: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st around, join with sl st to first sc.

Fasten off. Weave in the end.

For a tighter neck, use the optional 5 mm hook for the neckband only.

Set in sleeves

With RS together, pin the sleeve cap into the armhole:

• Match the underarm skipped stitches of the sleeve to the underarm skipped stitches of the body.
• Match the top center of the cap to the shoulder seam.
• Ease the rest of the cap around the armhole, pinning every 2" (5 cm).

Sew in place with mattress stitch or sl st. Repeat for the second sleeve.

Side and underarm seams

Starting at the hem, sew the front to the back along the side, then continue along the sleeve underarm to the cuff, in one continuous seam. Repeat on the other side.

Final

Weave in all remaining ends. Block the seamed pullover lightly, shaping the neckband and seams.

Schematic (inches)

BACK / FRONT
                    shoulder 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts
                    4¾ (5, 5¼, 5¾, 6)"
                 |------|   neck 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) sts
                 |      |   7 (7¾, 8¼, 9, 9¾)"
        _________|      |_________
       /     armhole 8 (8.5, 9, 9.5, 10)"     \
      |                                        |
      |     width 19 (21, 23, 25, 27)"         |
      |     bust  38 (42, 46, 50, 54)"         |
      |                                        |
      |     length to underarm                 |
      |     15 (15.5, 16, 16.5, 17)"           |
      |                                        |
      |_____ 2½" sc BLO ribbing _______________|
            total length 23 (24, 25, 26, 27)"

SLEEVE
           cap top 14 (16, 18, 20, 24) sts
              \        /
               \ cap  /
                \    /   upper arm 38 (42, 46, 50, 56) sts
                 |  |    12¾ (14, 15¼, 16¾, 18¾)"
                 |  |    length to underarm
                 |  |    17½ (18, 18, 18½, 18½)"
                 |  |
                 |__|    cuff 8 (9, 9, 10, 10)"
                   2½" sc BLO ribbing

Beginner Tips

• Count stitches at the end of every row for the first 4" (10 cm), then every few rows after that.
• Place a marker in the first and last dc of each row until the turning chain feels natural.
• If a row is one stitch short, work 2 dc in one stitch at the center; if one stitch over, dc2tog at the center. Never add extra stitches at the edges except on a written increase row.
• Try the pieces on (or hold them up) before seaming: front and back should be the same length; sleeves should reach from cuff on the hand to the underarm.
• Mattress stitch, worked under the two outer loops of matching stitches, gives the flattest seam on dc fabric.

Enjoy your pullover.