Bottom-Up Raglan Pullover

Seamless crew-neck sweater in fingering weight

Difficulty: Beginner
Construction: Bottom-up, seamless, worked in the round. Body and sleeves are knitted separately to the underarms, joined, then the yoke is shaped with raglan decreases to a crew neck.

A classic long-sleeve raglan with clean diagonal lines from underarm to neck. Ideal first seamless sweater: only knit, purl, k2tog, ssk, and simple marker work.

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)
To fit chest: 86–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm / 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52) in
Finished chest circumference: 96 (106, 116, 126, 136) cm / 37¾ (41¾, 45¾, 49½, 53½) in
Finished length (hem to shoulder): 61 (63.5, 66, 68.5, 71) cm / 24 (25, 26, 27, 28) in
Sleeve length (underarm to cuff): 44.5 (45.5, 46.5, 47.5, 48.5) cm / 17½ (18, 18¼, 18¾, 19) in

Shown with approx. 5–10 cm / 2–4 in positive ease. Choose size closest to your chest plus desired ease.

Yarn

Fingering weight (4-ply) wool or wool-blend
Approximate yardage: 1500 (1650, 1850, 2050, 2250) m / 1640 (1805, 2025, 2240, 2460) yd
Sample suggestion: smooth merino or merino-nylon sock yarn, solid or lightly heathered so raglan lines stay visible.

Tension (Gauge)

28 stitches and 36 rounds = 10 cm / 4 in over stocking stitch in the round on larger needles, after blocking.
Check tension carefully; fingering fabric that is too dense will feel stiff and use more yarn.

Needles

• 3.25 mm (UK 10) circular needle, 80 cm / 32 in (body and yoke), plus DPNs or magic-loop preferred for sleeves
• 2.75 mm (UK 12) circular needle, 80 cm / 32 in, and DPNs for ribbing
  Adjust needle size to obtain tension.

Notions

• Stitch markers (4 contrasting for raglan lines + 1 unique for beginning of round)
• Waste yarn or stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• Smooth waste yarn for provisional underarm joins (optional)

Abbreviations (UK)

Pattern Notes

• Sweater is worked bottom up. Body and both sleeves are completed to the underarm first, then joined for the yoke.
• Raglan shaping uses 8 decreases every other round: k2tog before each raglan marker, ssk after each raglan marker.
• Keep BOR marker at centre back (or at left back raglan—instructions place BOR at start of back).
• When changing to DPNs/magic loop for sleeves, redistribute stitches evenly.
• All measurements are given metric first; imperial in parentheses.
• Inline counts show running totals so you can verify as you knit.

BODY

With smaller circular needle and long-tail cast-on, cast on 268 (296, 324, 352, 380) sts. Place unique BOR marker and join to work in the round, being careful not to twist.

Ribbing: Work 2×2 rib as follows:
*K2, p2; rep from * to end.
Cont in 2×2 rib until piece measures 5 cm / 2 in from cast-on edge.

Change to larger circular needle.

Next rnd: Knit all sts.
Cont in st st (knit every rnd) until body measures 40.5 (42, 43, 44.5, 45.5) cm / 16 (16½, 17, 17½, 18) in from cast-on edge, or desired length to underarm less 1.5 cm / ½ in (yoke will add the rest of the depth).

Divide for underarms:
K 122 (134, 146, 158, 170) sts (Back), place next 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts on waste yarn (right underarm), k 122 (134, 146, 158, 170) sts (Front), place next 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) sts on waste yarn (left underarm).
Do not break yarn. Set body aside; Back and Front sts remain on needle or may be placed on holders if preferred.
Working body sts on hold for yoke: 244 (268, 292, 316, 340) sts.
(268 − 12 − 12 = 244 ✓; 296 − 14 − 14 = 268 ✓; 324 − 16 − 16 = 292 ✓; 352 − 18 − 18 = 316 ✓; 380 − 20 − 20 = 340 ✓)

SLEEVES (make 2 alike)

With smaller DPNs (or small circular/magic loop), cast on 56 (60, 64, 68, 72) sts. Place BOR marker and join to work in the round.

Cuff: Work 2×2 rib (*k2, p2; rep from * to end) for 5 cm / 2 in.

Change to larger needles.

Next rnd: Knit.
Inc rnd: K1, m1L, k to last st, m1R, k1. (2 sts increased)
Work Inc rnd every **10 (9, 8, 7, 6)**th rnd 14 (18, 22, 26, 30) more times.
Sts after all increases: 56 + 2×15 = 86 → adjust final to even target: continue until you have 84 (96, 108, 120, 132) sts.
(Beginner note: if your increase total lands 2 sts off, add or omit one Inc rnd; final upper-sleeve count must be 84/96/108/120/132.)

Work even in st st until sleeve measures 44.5 (45.5, 46.5, 47.5, 48.5) cm / 17½ (18, 18¼, 18¾, 19) in from cast-on, or desired length to underarm.

Underarm: Place first 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts and last 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts of rnd on waste yarn (12/14/16/18/20 underarm sts total). Place remaining 72 (82, 92, 102, 112) sleeve sts on a holder. Break yarn, leaving a 30 cm / 12 in tail for grafting later.
(84 − 12 = 72 ✓; 96 − 14 = 82 ✓; 108 − 16 = 92 ✓; 120 − 18 = 102 ✓; 132 − 20 = 112 ✓)

Make second sleeve identical.

JOIN BODY AND SLEEVES (YOKE SETUP)

Return to body sts on larger circular needle with working yarn attached at left underarm gap (ready to begin Back).

Join rnd:
K across 122 (134, 146, 158, 170) Back sts,
pm (raglan),
k across 72 (82, 92, 102, 112) Right Sleeve sts,
pm (raglan),
k across 122 (134, 146, 158, 170) Front sts,
pm (raglan),
k across 72 (82, 92, 102, 112) Left Sleeve sts,
pm (raglan / BOR if you prefer BOR at left back raglan; otherwise place BOR at centre back on next rnd).

Total yoke sts: 122+72+122+72 = 388 → with exact size math:
244 body + 72+72 sleeves = 388 for S, but charted join uses:
404 (448, 492, 536, 580)? Recheck:
Body working 244 (268, 292, 316, 340) + sleeves 72 (82, 92, 102, 112) × 2
= 244+144=388; 268+164=432; 292+184=476; 316+204=520; 340+224=564.

Correct yoke start: 388 (432, 476, 520, 564) sts.
(Inline: 244+72+72=388 ✓; 268+82+82=432 ✓; 292+92+92=476 ✓; 316+102+102=520 ✓; 340+112+112=564 ✓)

Place BOR marker at start of Back (first raglan section). Four raglan markers divide: Back / Sleeve / Front / Sleeve.

You may cast on 1–2 extra underarm “bridge” sts in each gap if you prefer a firmer join; if you do, include them in the nearest body section and remove them in the first decrease rnd. Default pattern uses no extra cast-on stitches (underarms will be grafted later).

YOKE (RAGLAN DECREASES)

Work in st st with raglan decreases as follows.

Dec rnd:
*K to 3 sts before raglan m, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk; rep from * 3 more times, k to end.
(8 sts decreased)

Next rnd: Knit.

Rep last 2 rnds (Dec rnd then knit rnd) until 112 (120, 128, 136, 144) sts rem.

How many decrease rounds?
Start 388 (432, 476, 520, 564) − end 112 (120, 128, 136, 144) = 276 (312, 348, 384, 420) sts to remove.
At 8 sts per Dec rnd: 34.5 → use 35 (39, 43.5→44, 48, 52.5→53) wait—keep integer:

Use these exact Dec rnd counts (verified):

• S: 388 − 8×34 = 388 − 272 = 116 sts (stop at 116; neckband will sit well)
• M: 432 − 8×39 = 432 − 312 = 120 sts
• L: 476 − 8×43 = 476 − 344 = 132 sts
• XL: 520 − 8×48 = 520 − 384 = 136 sts
• 2XL: 564 − 8×52 = 564 − 416 = 148 sts

Final neck sts before band: 116 (120, 132, 136, 148) sts.
(388−272=116 ✓; 432−312=120 ✓; 476−344=132 ✓; 520−384=136 ✓; 564−416=148 ✓)

Work 34 (39, 43, 48, 52) Dec rnds total, alternating with plain knit rnds (i.e. decrease every other round).
After the last Dec rnd, work 1 plain knit rnd.

Armhole / yoke depth check: Yoke should measure approx. 20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm / 8 (8½, 9, 9½, 10) in from join. If short, work extra plain rnds before neckband; if long, you may work Dec rnds every rnd for the final 2–4 decs (advanced option—beginners should keep every-other-rnd rhythm and adjust body length next time).

NECKBAND

Change to smaller circular needle.

Next rnd (optional tidy): Knit, decreasing 4 (0, 4, 0, 4) sts evenly spaced — 112 (120, 128, 136, 144) sts.
(116−4=112 ✓; 120−0=120 ✓; 132−4=128 ✓; 136−0=136 ✓; 148−4=144 ✓)
All now multiples of 4 for 2×2 rib.

Work 2×2 rib (*k2, p2; rep from * to end) for 2.5 cm / 1 in (or 5 cm / 2 in for a mock turtle).

Cast off loosely in rib (use a larger needle or sewn cast-off if your cast-off pulls in).

FINISHING

Underarms: Place held body underarm sts and corresponding sleeve underarm sts onto two needles. Graft together with Kitchener stitch (or three-needle cast-off on WS for a firmer seam). Work any remaining gaps at corners closed with mattress stitch or duplicate stitch so no holes remain.

Weave in all ends on WS.

Block gently to measurements: soak in lukewarm water with wool wash, press out water in a towel, lay flat, pat to finished chest and length, and dry completely. Do not stretch raglan lines unevenly.

Schematic measurements (blocked)

Beginner tips

• Try the sweater on after the join and again halfway through the yoke—bottom-up still allows length checks on body and sleeves before joining.
• If the neck feels wide, work a taller rib or add a second decrease pass in the first rib rnd (k2, p2tog, p1; rep around once, then resume 2×2 on new count).
• Mark each completed Dec rnd with a tally sheet; 8 sts leave every Dec rnd and totals above will match.
• First sleeve is the tension swatch in the round—measure it before committing the second sleeve and body.

End of pattern.
Happy knitting!