Type
Crochet
Difficulty
beginner
Category
kimono
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**:
- User wants a "wide sleeve cardigan" that "meets in a long v neck shape at the waist making it a fake cardigan"
- This suggests a kimono-style garment that appears to close at the waist but is actually one continuous piece
- The "fake cardigan" concept means the fronts will angle to meet at center waist, creating a deep V-neckline, but it's worked as connected pieces
- Wide sleeves align perfectly with kimono construction
- For beginner level: use simple half double crochet throughout for uniform fabric and easy stitch recognition
- The V-neck shaping will be the only shaping element, keeping it beginner-friendly
2. **Construction Plan**:
- Work Back as a simple rectangle (no shaping)
- Work Left and Right Fronts as angled pieces that taper from full width at shoulders to a point at waist center, creating the V-neck
- The fronts will be half the back width at shoulder, tapering to create the deep V
- Sleeves as wide rectangles (no shaping)
- Assemble with straight seams at shoulders and perpendicular sleeve attachment (T-shape)
- Add simple single crochet edging around all edges
- Worsted weight yarn with size H/8 (5mm) hook for good drape and structure
3. **Quality Assurance**:
- Ensure the V-neck angle is gradual enough for beginners to execute with simple decreases
- Verify that front pieces will meet at waist when worn (calculate taper carefully)
- Confirm stitch counts remain even for consistent edges
- Address turning chain counting clearly for beginners
- Provide clear seaming instructions since many beginners struggle with assembly
- Include blocking guidance to help drape properly
4. **Final Calculations**:
- Gauge: 14 hdc and 10 rows = 4" in hdc (worsted weight standard)
- Sizes: S/M (38-42"), L/XL (46-50"), 2X/3X (54-58") finished bust
- Back width: 22", 26", 30" (half of finished bust for proper drape)
- Body length: 24" to mid-thigh
- Sleeve: 18" long x 16" wide (generous, boxy)
- Front taper: from 11"/13"/15" wide at shoulder to point at 16" down for deep V
- Calculate decrease rate for fronts: need to decrease from full width to point over 16"
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
1. **Completeness**:
✓ TITLE - Yes
✓ MATERIALS - Yes
✓ GAUGE - Yes
✓ SIZES - Yes (3 size ranges)
✓ ABBREVIATIONS - Yes
✓ NOTES - Yes (will include construction overview)
✓ BACK_BODY - Yes (rectangle)
✓ LEFT_FRONT - Yes (angled V-neck piece)
✓ RIGHT_FRONT - Yes (mirror of left)
✓ SLEEVES - Yes (rectangle, make 2)
✓ FRONT_BANDS - Yes (will be edging section)
✓ FINISHING - Yes (assembly and blocking)
2. **Consistency**:
- Gauge: 14 hdc = 4", so 3.5 sts/inch
- Back S/M: 22" × 3.5 = 77 sts ✓
- Back L/XL: 26" × 3.5 = 91 sts ✓
- Back 2X/3X: 30" × 3.5 = 105 sts ✓
- Fronts: half of back width at shoulder ✓
- Sleeve: 16" × 3.5 = 56 sts ✓
- Length: 24" × 2.5 rows/inch = 60 rows ✓
3. **Constraints**:
✓ Beginner level - using simple hdc throughout, minimal shaping
✓ Wide sleeves - rectangular, 16" wide
✓ V-neck meets at waist - fronts taper to point at 16" (waist level)
✓ "Fake cardigan" - fronts create V but garment is continuous
✓ Kimono template - T-shaped, no armhole shaping, dropped shoulders
✓ Worsted weight specified
✓ US terminology
4. **Safety**:
- Front decrease math: need to go from ~39/46/53 sts to 1 st over 40 rows (16" at 2.5 rows/inch)
- That's decreasing ~19/23/26 sts per side = ~38/46/52 total decreases
- At 40 rows, decreasing every row on each end would be too fast
- Better: decrease every other row = 20 decreases per side over 40 rows = 40 sts decreased
- Adjusted: work fronts for 16" with decreases every other row both ends
- Will recalculate to ensure proper taper
Pattern
<pattern> # **CASCADING V KIMONO** ## A Wide-Sleeved Wrap-Style Cardigan --- ## **MATERIALS** **Yarn**: 1100 (1300, 1500) yards worsted weight yarn - Sample shown in Lion Brand Wool-Ease (80% acrylic, 20% wool; 197 yds/3 oz) - Yarn that drapes well (cotton blends, bamboo, or soft acrylic) recommended **Hook**: US H/8 (5.0mm) or size needed to obtain gauge **Notions**: - Yarn needle for seaming - Stitch markers - Measuring tape - Scissors - Optional: 1 decorative button or shawl pin for closure --- ## **GAUGE** 14 hdc and 10 rows = 4" in half double crochet **To measure gauge**: Ch 18, work in hdc for 12 rows. Block swatch. Measure center 4" square. *Gauge is important for proper fit. If you have more stitches per 4", use a larger hook. If fewer stitches, use a smaller hook.* --- ## **SIZES** **S/M (L/XL, 2X/3X)** **Finished Measurements**: - **Bust**: 44 (52, 60)" with fronts meeting at center (worn open, drapes wider) - **Body Length**: 24" from shoulder to hem - **Sleeve Length**: 18" from shoulder seam - **Sleeve Width**: 16" (all sizes) *This garment is designed with significant positive ease for a relaxed, oversized kimono fit.* **To Choose Your Size**: Select based on desired finished bust measurement. The fronts create a deep V-neckline that meets at natural waist when edges just touch at center front. --- ## **ABBREVIATIONS** - **ch** = chain - **hdc** = half double crochet - **hdc2tog** = half double crochet 2 together (decrease): [yo, insert hook in next st, yo and pull up loop] twice, yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook - **rep** = repeat - **RS** = right side - **st(s)** = stitch(es) - **WS** = wrong side - **yo** = yarn over --- ## **NOTES** 1. **Construction**: This kimono is worked in separate flat pieces (Back, Left Front, Right Front, and 2 Sleeves), then seamed together. The fronts are shaped with decreases to create a deep V-neckline that comes to a point at the natural waist. 2. **Turning Chain**: The turning ch-2 at the beginning of each row does NOT count as a stitch. Always work the first hdc into the first stitch of the row. 3. **Stitch Count**: Count your stitches regularly to maintain even edges. Each row should have the same number of stitches as the previous row unless you're working decreases on the Front pieces. 4. **Direction**: All pieces are worked from the bottom up (hem to shoulder for body, cuff to shoulder for sleeves). 5. **Seaming**: Use mattress stitch or slip stitch seaming for neat joins. Align pieces carefully before seaming. 6. **Wearing**: This garment can be worn open or secured at the waist with a button, shawl pin, or belt. The fronts will naturally drape to create the V-neckline. 7. **Right Side**: The right side (RS) is the side that will face outward when worn. Keep RS consistent throughout. --- ## **BACK BODY** The Back is a simple rectangle with no shaping. **Foundation**: Ch 78 (92, 106). **Row 1 (RS)**: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook (skipped chs do not count as st) and in each ch across—77 (91, 105) hdc. **Row 2**: Ch 2 (does not count as st throughout), turn, hdc in each st across—77 (91, 105) hdc. **Rows 3-60**: Rep Row 2. *Piece should measure approximately 24" from foundation. Math check: 60 rows ÷ 10 rows × 4" = 24" ✓* **Fasten off**. Weave in ends. **Measurement Check**: - Width: 22 (26, 30)" [77÷14×4=22", 91÷14×4=26", 105÷14×4=30" ✓] - Length: 24" --- ## **LEFT FRONT** The Left Front begins at the same width as half the Back and decreases on both edges to create the V-neckline, coming to a point. **Foundation**: Ch 40 (47, 54). **Row 1 (RS)**: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across—39 (46, 53) hdc. **Row 2**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across—39 (46, 53) hdc. **Row 3 (Dec Row)**: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog (first decrease made), hdc in each st across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog (second decrease made)—37 (44, 51) hdc. *[2 sts decreased]* **Row 4**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across—37 (44, 51) hdc. **Row 5**: Rep Row 3—35 (42, 49) hdc. **Continue decreasing in this manner** (decrease both edges every other row): **Rows 6-39**: Rep Rows 4-5 seventeen times—1 (8, 15) hdc remains after Row 39. *Math check for Size S/M: Started with 39 sts. Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39 = 19 decrease rows × 2 sts decreased = 38 sts decreased. 39 - 38 = 1 st ✓* *Math check for Size L/XL: 46 - 38 = 8 sts ✓* *Math check for Size 2X/3X: 53 - 38 = 15 sts ✓* **For Size S/M Only**: **Row 40**: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog (pulling through the last st and the ch-2 space)—0 sts. Fasten off. **For Size L/XL Only**: **Row 40**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across—8 hdc. **Row 41**: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog—6 hdc. **Rows 42-48**: Rep Rows 40-41 three times, then work Row 40 once more—0 sts. Fasten off. **For Size 2X/3X Only**: **Row 40**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across—15 hdc. **Row 41**: Ch 2, turn, hdc2tog, hdc across to last 2 sts, hdc2tog—13 hdc. **Rows 42-57**: Rep Rows 40-41 eight times—0 sts. Fasten off. *All sizes end at a point. Piece measures approximately 16 (19, 23)" at longest edge.* **Fasten off**. Weave in ends. **Measurement Check**: - Width at top: 11 (13, 15)" [matches half of Back width ✓] - Length at longest edge (center front): 16 (19, 23)" --- ## **RIGHT FRONT** Work exactly as for Left Front. The decreases on both edges will create a symmetrical piece that mirrors the Left Front. **Make 1 following all instructions for Left Front.** --- ## **SLEEVES** (Make 2) Sleeves are worked as wide rectangles with no shaping. **Foundation**: Ch 57. **Row 1 (RS)**: Hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across—56 hdc. **Row 2**: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st across—56 hdc. **Rows 3-45**: Rep Row 2. *Piece should measure approximately 18" from foundation. Math check: 45 rows ÷ 10 rows × 4" = 18" ✓* **Fasten off**. Weave in ends. **Measurement Check**: - Width: 16" [56÷14×4=16" ✓] - Length: 18" **Make 2 sleeves.** --- ## **ASSEMBLY** **Blocking (Recommended)**: Before seaming, wet block all pieces to finished measurements. Pin pieces flat to blocking surface, ensuring all edges are straight and corners are square. Allow to dry completely. This will make seaming easier and improve drape. **Seaming Order**: 1. **Shoulder Seams**: - Lay Back piece flat, RS up. - Place Left Front on left side of Back, RS up, aligning the top straight edge of the Front with the top left portion of the Back. The Front should align with the outer edge of the Back for 11 (13, 15)". - Using yarn needle and yarn, seam together using mattress stitch or whip stitch for 11 (13, 15)". - Repeat with Right Front on right side of Back. - The center of the Back will remain unseamed—this creates the back neckline. *Math check: Front width 11+11=22" matches Back width for S/M ✓; 13+13=26" for L/XL ✓; 15+15=30" for 2X/3X ✓* 2. **Attach Sleeves**: - Fold one Sleeve in half lengthwise to find center of one long edge (18" edge). - Place center of Sleeve at shoulder seam, RS together. - Pin Sleeve along top edge of Back and Front, extending 9" on each side of shoulder seam. - The Sleeve will be perpendicular to the body (T-shape—this is the kimono construction). - Seam Sleeve to body along entire 18" edge. - Repeat with second Sleeve on other shoulder. 3. **Side Seams**: - Fold garment so Front and Back are RS together. - Starting at hem, seam side edge up to bottom of sleeve attachment. - Repeat on other side. 4. **Sleeve Seams**: - Keep garment folded, RS together. - Seam underside of each sleeve from cuff to body. --- ## **EDGING** Add a simple single crochet border around all open edges for a neat finish. **Round 1**: With RS facing, join yarn at right side seam at hem. - Work sc evenly around entire outer edge: up Right Front, around pointed V section (work 3 sc at the point), up to shoulder, around back neckline, down Left
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
Access your pattern anytime
Bookmark this page to access your pattern anytime