Cool-Girl Colorwork Raglan Pullover

Top-down seamless sweater in Knitting for Olive Merino + Silk Mohair held double

Difficulty: Intermediate
Construction: Top-down raglan worked seamlessly in the round. Neckline method: Full-circumference cast-on with German short rows to raise the back (crew neck). Do not add extra front-neck stitches after short rows.

A slightly oversized cool-girl pullover with graphic stranded colorwork, a close ribbed crew neck, and long sleeves that ease into a gentle bell at the cuff.

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL)
To fit bust: 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" / 86–91 (97–102, 107–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm
Finished bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm
Ease: about 2–4" (5–10 cm) positive ease. Sample shown in Medium.

Choose size by finished bust, not “to fit.”

Finished measurements (after blocking)

Lengths are easily adjusted while knitting.

Yarn

Knitting for Olive Merino (sport; 100% merino; 273 yd / 250 m per 50 g) held together with Knitting for Olive Soft Silk Mohair (lace; 70% mohair, 30% silk; 246 yd / 225 m per 25 g).
Always hold one strand of each as one working yarn.

MC (background): 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) balls Merino + 5 (6, 6, 7, 8) balls Soft Silk Mohair. Suggested: Dusty Rose, Fennel Seed, or Cream.
CC1 (main motif): 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) balls each fiber. Suggested: Black, Midnight, or Bottle Green.
CC2 (accent pops): 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) balls each fiber. Suggested: Hot Pink, Chartreuse, or Cobalt.

Yardage is approximate; colorwork and bell sleeves use extra CC.

Needles

• US 4 / 3.5 mm — 16" (40 cm) circular for neckband; DPNs or magic loop for cuffs/hem ribbing
• US 6 / 4 mm — 16" then 24–32" (40 then 60–80 cm) circular for yoke/body; DPNs or magic loop for sleeves

Adjust needle size to obtain gauge. Colorwork often needs a slightly larger needle than plain stockinette.

Notions

Stitch markers (4 raglan + 1 BOR, distinct), waste yarn or holders, tapestry needle, blocking wires or pins.

Gauge

22 stitches and 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stranded stockinette with both yarns held double, US 6 / 4 mm, blocked.
Ribbing: about 24 sts = 4" on US 4 / 3.5 mm.

Swatch in the round in two colors. If your stranded fabric is dense, go up a needle.

Abbreviations (US)

BOR beginning of round · CC contrast color · CO cast on · dec decrease · DPN double-pointed needle · inc increase · k knit · k2tog knit 2 together · m marker · M1L make 1 left (lift bar from front to back, knit through back) · M1R make 1 right (lift bar from back to front, knit through front) · MC main color · p purl · pm place marker · rnd(s) round(s) · RS right side · slm slip marker · ssk slip, slip, knit · St st stockinette stitch · st(s) stitch(es) · WS wrong side · wyib with yarn in back

Raglan increase round: *K to 1 st before raglan m, M1R, k1, slm, k1, M1L; rep from * 3 more times, k to end. 8 sts increased.

Colorwork notes (no chart in this text)

Work stranded colorwork in the round. Carry unused color loosely on the WS; catch floats every 4–5 sts. Keep CC floats slightly looser than MC so the fabric does not pucker.

Intended look: modern, funky, cool-girl — not traditional Fair Isle bands. Think oversized irregular dots, broken dashes, offset two-row stripes, and a few scattered star or asterisk motifs. High contrast (dark on dusty rose, or cream on black) reads graphic; a third neon or acid accent used sparingly keeps it current.

Placement (read these as zones, not a grid):

1. Neckband: MC rib only.
2. Short-row section and first ~1" of yoke: MC only.
3. Upper yoke (after short rows until ~half of raglan depth): all-over small irregular spots in CC1 on MC, with occasional CC2 single-stitch “spark.” Spots should not sit on a strict grid.
4. Mid yoke: 4–8 rounds of broken / offset stripes (2 rnds CC1, 1 rnd MC, 2 rnds CC1, or similar) so stripes do not form perfect rings.
5. Lower yoke to underarm: larger blob or cloud shapes in CC1, 2–4 sts wide, scattered, with a few CC2 stars.
6. Body: mostly MC; optional repeat of small spots in a 4–6" band at mid-torso, or a single offset stripe trio above the hem.
7. Sleeves: continue lower-yoke blobs for 2–3" then MC; optional small spots near the bell.

If a separate chart panel is supplied later, use it for motif shapes while keeping the zone placement above. The written pattern is complete without a chart: work freehand spots 1–3 sts wide, never lining them up vertically for more than two rounds.

Pattern

Neckband (full circumference)

With US 4 / 3.5 mm, 16" circular, and MC (Merino + mohair held double), using a stretchy method (e.g. German twisted or long-tail), CO 92 (96, 100, 104, 108) sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Pm for BOR.

Rib rnd: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.
Work ribbing for 1¼" (3 cm).

Change to US 6 / 4 mm.

Next rnd (set raglan markers): K 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) (half back), pm (raglan), k 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) (sleeve), pm, k 32 (34, 36, 38, 40) (front), pm, k 14 (14, 14, 14, 14) (sleeve), pm, k 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) (half back) to BOR.
Check: 16+14+32+14+16 = 92 ✓; 17+14+34+14+17 = 96 ✓; 18+14+36+14+18 = 100 ✓; 19+14+38+14+19 = 104 ✓; 20+14+40+14+20 = 108 ✓.

German short rows (raise back only)

Do not cast on extra front stitches. Full neck is already on the needles.

Short-row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before first raglan m (left back raglan), wrap & turn (or German short-row: knit to that point, turn, sl 1 purlwise wyif, pull yarn up and over to create a double stitch).
Short-row 2 (WS): Purl to BOR, slm, purl to 2 sts before next raglan m (right back raglan), wrap & turn (or German DS).
Short-row 3: Knit to 4 sts before previous turning st, turn.
Short-row 4: Purl to 4 sts before previous turning st, turn.
Short-row 5: Knit to 6 sts before previous turning st, turn.
Short-row 6: Purl to 6 sts before previous turning st, turn.
Next (RS): Knit to BOR, resolving double stitches / wraps as you pass them (knit DS as one st).
Next rnd: Knit 1 full round, resolving remaining wraps/DS. Back is now higher; front neck unchanged.

Yoke

Begin colorwork when stated in Colorwork notes (after ~1" MC). Maintain raglan markers.

Inc rnd: Work raglan increase round (8 sts).
Even rnd: Knit (in pattern).

Repeat Inc rnd then Even rnd until you have worked 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) increase rounds.

Stitch counts after increases:

Each raglan line gains 1 st per side per inc rnd → +2 sts per section per inc rnd. Front/back: start + (2 × inc rnds). Sleeves: 14 + (2 × inc rnds). Totals: 236 (256, 276, 296, 316) ✓.

Work even in pattern (no raglan incs) if needed until yoke depth from CO edge (including neckband) measures 8 (8½, 9, 9½, 10)" / 20.5 (21.5, 23, 24, 25.5) cm, or until the underarm sits comfortably when tried on. End with an even (non-inc) round.

Divide body and sleeves

Next rnd: Knit across back to first raglan m, remove m, place next 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) sleeve sts on waste yarn, remove m, CO 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts for underarm using backward loop or cable CO, knit across front 68 (74, 80, 86, 92) sts, remove m, place next 50 (54, 58, 62, 66) sleeve sts on waste yarn, remove m, CO 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) sts, knit remaining back sts to BOR.

Body stitches: 68+6+68+6 = 148 (S); 74+8+74+8 = 164 (M); 80+10+80+10 = 180 (L); 86+12+86+12 = 196 (XL); 92+14+92+14 = 204 wait — 92+14+92+14 = 212 (2XL) ✓.
148 (164, 180, 196, 212) sts.
At 22 sts/4": 148 sts = 26.9" — that is too small vs 38" bust.

Correction of underarm / body math for finished bust (applied silently in final numbers): finished bust 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" × 5.5 sts/inch = 209, 231, 253, 275, 297 sts. Round to multiples that match even underarm CO.

Recalibrated counts used below (inc rnds increased so body hits gauge):

Use these yoke increase counts instead: 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) raglan increase rounds.

After 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) inc rnds:
Front/back each: 32+48=80; 34+52=86; 36+56=92; 38+60=98; 40+64=104.
Sleeves each: 14+48=62; 14+52=66; 14+56=70; 14+60=74; 14+64=78.
Total yoke: 92+192=284; 96+208=304; 100+224=324; 104+240=344; 108+256=364. ✓

Divide: place 62 (66, 70, 74, 78) sleeve sts on hold; CO 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) underarm sts each side.

Body: 80+12+80+12 = 184 (S); 86+14+86+14 = 200; 92+16+92+16 = 216; 98+18+98+18 = 232; 104+20+104+20 = 248.

184/5.5 = 33.5" — still short of 38". Need ~209 sts for 38".

Final calibrated plan (published numbers):
Cast-on and markers unchanged. Work 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) raglan increase rounds.

Front/back each: 32+56=88; 34+60=94; 36+64=100; 38+68=106; 40+72=112.
Sleeves: 14+56=70; 14+60=74; 14+64=78; 14+68=82; 14+72=86.
Yoke total: 92+224=316; 96+240=336; 100+256=356; 104+272=376; 108+288=396. ✓ (8×28=224, 92+224=316 ✓)

Underarm CO 16 (20, 24, 28, 32) sts each side.
Body: 88+16+88+16 = 208; 94+20+94+20 = 228; 100+24+100+24 = 248; 106+28+106+28 = 268; 112+32+112+32 = 288.

208 sts × 4 / 22 = 37.8" ≈ 38" ✓
228 × 4/22 = 41.5" ≈ 42" ✓
248 × 4/22 = 45.1" ≈ 46" ✓
268 × 4/22 = 48.7" ≈ 50" ✓
288 × 4/22 = 52.4" ≈ 54" ✓ (2XL is slightly less ease; acceptable, or CO 4 more underarm sts each side for 296 sts = 53.8". Published 2XL body: 288 sts / 52.5" with ~0–2" ease on 50–52" bust, or knit extra underarm if more ease is wanted.)

For 2XL closer to 54": CO 36 underarm each side → 112+36+112+36 = 296 sts = 53.8" ✓. Use 2XL underarm CO 36 sts, body 296 sts.

Published divide (final): Place 70 (74, 78, 82, 86) sleeve sts on waste yarn. CO 16 (20, 24, 28, 36) underarm sts each gap.
Body: 208 (228, 248, 268, 296) sts.

Pm at center of one underarm for new BOR if desired.

Body

Work even in St st (colorwork as in notes) until body from underarm measures 11½ (12, 12½, 13, 13½)" / 29 (30.5, 32, 33, 34.5) cm, or 1½" / 4 cm less than desired total length.

Change to US 4 / 3.5 mm.

Rib: *K1, p1; rep from * around for 1½" (4 cm).
Bind off in rib, moderately stretchy (e.g. tubular or sewn bind-off).

Sleeves (make 2) — slight bell

Return 70 (74, 78, 82, 86) held sts to US 6 / 4 mm DPNs or magic loop. With MC (and CC if continuing motifs), pick up and knit 8 (10, 12, 14, 18) sts along first half of underarm CO, pm BOR at underarm center, pick up and knit remaining 8 (10, 12, 14, 18) underarm sts.

Sleeve sts: 70+16=86; 74+20=94; 78+24=102; 82+28=110; 86+36=122.

Upper arm: 86/5.5 = 15.6" (S — generous); 94 = 17.1"; 102 = 18.5"; 110 = 20"; 122 = 22.2". Slightly roomy cool-girl upper arm; OK for the aesthetic. If too wide, pick up fewer underarm sts (pick up 8 total S: 70+8=78 = 14.2").

Published pickup (sleeker upper arm): pick up 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) total underarm sts (4 (5, 6, 7, 8) each side).
Sleeve: 78 (84, 90, 96, 102) sts.
78/5.5=14.2"; 84=15.3"; 90=16.4"; 96=17.5"; 102=18.5" — closer to chart 13–18". ✓

Join in the round. Knit 1 rnd, picking up any gaps at corners (k2tog with adjacent st if a hole).

Work even for 2" (5 cm) (continue lower-yoke blobs if desired, then MC).

Taper (gentle, not a skinny sleeve):
Dec rnd: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts dec)
Knit 7 (7, 6, 6, 5) rnds even.
Repeat Dec rnd every 8th (8th, 7th, 7th, 6th) rnd 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) more times — 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) dec rnds total.

Sts remaining: 78−18=60; 84−20=64; 90−22=68; 96−24=72; 102−26=76. ✓

Work even until sleeve from underarm measures 14 (14½, 14½, 15, 15)" / 35.5 (37, 37, 38, 38) cm, or 3½" (9 cm) less than desired length.

Bell flare:
Inc rnd: K1, M1L, k to last st, M1R, k1. (2 sts inc)
Knit 3 rnds even.
Repeat Inc rnd every 4th rnd 5 more times — 6 inc rnds.
Sts: 60+12=72; 64+12=76; 68+12=80; 72+12=84; 76+12=88.

Cuff width: 72/5.5=13.1" on larger needle; ribbing draws in slightly to ~11". ✓

Change to US 4 / 3.5 mm.
Rib: *K1, p1; rep from * for 1½" (4 cm) (slightly longer rib = softer flare).
Bind off in rib, loosely so the bell is not cinched.

Finishing

Weave in ends, closing underarm gaps with duplicate stitch if needed. Soak in lukewarm water with wool wash; squeeze, do not wring. Block to measurements, pinning yoke raglans straight and encouraging the sleeve bells to open. Do not stretch colorwork widthwise. Steam lightly if mohair halo is desired.

Technical editor notes

• Always hold Merino + Soft Silk Mohair as one yarn.
• Full-circumference neck: 92 (96, 100, 104, 108) sts; German short rows raise back only.
• 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) raglan increase rounds; 8 sts every other round.
• Body 208 (228, 248, 268, 296) sts.
• Sleeves start 78 (84, 90, 96, 102) sts after pickup; taper then 6 flare increases to 72 (76, 80, 84, 88) sts.
• Catch floats; keep stranded gauge matching the swatch.

Wear with straight-leg trousers or a mini — the bells and graphic spots do the cool-girl work.