purlJam

# Cozy Button-Down Long Cardigan
### A Soft Winter Kimono-Style Cardigan (Beginner)

A warm, oversized longline cardigan worked in simple half double crochet. Built kimono-style from five rectangles (no fussy shaping), then finished with a button band, buttonholes, and a soft turned collar. The dropped-shoulder T-shape and worsted-weight fabric make it cozy, drapey, and beginner-friendly.

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## SKILL LEVEL
**Beginner** — straight rectangles, single stitch (hdc), simple seaming, basic buttonholes.

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## SIZES
Written for **S/M**, with **L/XL** and **2XL/3XL** in parentheses.
Designed with **8–12" of positive ease** (oversized fit).

| Size | To Fit Bust | Finished Bust |
|------|-------------|---------------|
| S/M | 32–38" | 48" |
| (L/XL) | 40–46" | 56" |
| (2XL/3XL) | 48–54" | 64" |

### Finished Measurements
| Measurement | S/M | L/XL | 2XL/3XL |
|-------------|-----|------|---------|
| Bust circumference | 48" | 56" | 64" |
| Body length (hem to shoulder) | 32" | 33" | 34" |
| Sleeve length | 18" | 18.5" | 19" |
| Sleeve width (flat) | 18" | 19" | 20" |

*The pattern body below is written in full for **S/M**. Stitch counts for the larger sizes are given in parentheses where they differ.*

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## MATERIALS
- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (Medium / #4), soft & warm. A wool or wool-acrylic blend gives cozy winter structure; a soft acrylic also works beautifully.
  - Approx. yardage: **1500 (1750, 2000) yds**
  - Suggested main color: **soft heather oatmeal, dove gray, or blush** (any soft neutral)
- **Hook:** US I-9 / 5.5 mm (main fabric) + US H-8 / 5.0 mm (button band, optional, for a firmer band)
- **Buttons:** 6 buttons, 1–1.25" (25–30 mm) diameter
- **Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors, sewing needle & thread for buttons

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## GAUGE
**14 sts × 11 rows = 4" (10 cm)** in half double crochet (hdc) with US I-9 / 5.5 mm hook, blocked.

> *Gauge check:* 14 sts ÷ 4" = **3.5 sts per inch**; 11 rows ÷ 4" = **2.75 rows per inch**.
> A forgiving gauge is fine here due to the oversized fit — but check before starting.

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## ABBREVIATIONS (US Terms)
- **ch** = chain
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **hdc** = half double crochet
- **sc** = single crochet
- **sl st** = slip stitch
- **fhdc** = foundation half double crochet (stretchy starting row; or ch + hdc)
- **RS / WS** = right side / wrong side
- **rep** = repeat

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## CONSTRUCTION NOTES
This cardigan is a **T-shaped kimono**: all pieces are simple rectangles.
- **No** armhole shaping, **no** sleeve tapering, **no** waist shaping.
- Sleeves attach at right angles (dropped shoulder).
- The **turning ch-1 at the start of each hdc row does NOT count as a stitch.**
- Work each piece flat, turning at the end of every row.

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## PIECE 1 — BACK (make 1)

**Foundation:** Using I-9 / 5.5 mm hook, make **84 (98, 112) fhdc.**
*(Or: ch 85 (99, 113), hdc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across = 84 (98, 112) sts.)*

> *Math:* 84 sts ÷ 3.5 sts/in = **24"** wide → ×2 = 48" bust. ✓

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1 (does not count), hdc in each st across. Turn. — **84 (98, 112) sts**

**Rows 2–88 (rows 2–91, rows 2–94):** Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn.

> *Math:* 88 rows ÷ 2.75 rows/in = **32"** long. ✓ (33" / 34" for larger sizes)

Fasten off after the final row. Set aside.

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## PIECE 2 & 3 — FRONTS (make 2)

Each front is half the back width.

**Foundation:** Make **42 (49, 56) fhdc.**
*(Or ch 43 (50, 57), hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across = 42 (49, 56) sts.)*

> *Math:* 42 + 42 = 84 sts = back width. ✓ Each front = 12" wide.

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. — **42 (49, 56) sts**

**Rows 2–88 (2–91, 2–94):** Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Fasten off. Make a **second front identical** to the first (they are interchangeable; the button band determines left/right later).

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## PIECE 4 & 5 — SLEEVES (make 2)

Wide, **un-tapered** rectangles — no increases or decreases.

**Foundation:** Make **62 (66, 70) fhdc.**
*(Or ch 63 (67, 71), hdc in 2nd ch from hook and across = 62 (66, 70) sts.)*

> *Math:* 62 sts ÷ 3.5 = **~18"** sleeve width (flat). ✓

**Row 1 (RS):** Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn. — **62 (66, 70) sts**

**Rows 2–50 (2–51, 2–52):** Ch 1, hdc in each st across. Turn.

> *Math:* 50 rows ÷ 2.75 = **~18"** sleeve length. ✓

Fasten off. Make the **second sleeve identical.**

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## ASSEMBLY

Block all pieces flat to measurements before seaming for the cleanest result.

### Step 1 — Shoulder Seams (straight)
Lay the back RS up. Lay each front on top, RS down, aligning top edges.
- Each shoulder seam spans **27 (31, 36) sts** in from the armhole edge, leaving the **center back neck open** (the remaining ~30 (36, 40) sts across the top of the back form the back neck).
- Seam the **27 (31, 36)** shoulder sts on each side with mattress stitch or sl st seam.

> *Math:* Front width 42 sts. Allow ~15 sts of each front top edge for the front neck slope; seam the remaining **27 sts** to the back shoulder. Back neck open = 84 − (27 + 27) = **30 sts.** ✓

### Step 2 — Attach Sleeves (perpendicular / dropped shoulder)
With the cardigan opened flat at the shoulder seams, find the center of each sleeve's top edge and align it to the shoulder seam.
- Pin the sleeve top edge evenly along the body. The sleeve width (18") drops **9" down the front and 9" down the back** from the shoulder seam.
- Seam the sleeve top edge to the body. **Do not add any shaping** — it attaches at a right angle.

### Step 3 — Side & Sleeve Seams
- Seam each **side** from hem up to the underarm.
- Continue seaming the **sleeve underside** from underarm to cuff in one continuous line.
- Leave the bottom hems, front edges, and neck open for edging.

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## EDGING & CLOSURES

### Step 4 — Bottom Hem Edge (optional, tidy finish)
With RS facing, join yarn at a side seam and work **1 round of sc** evenly across the bottom hem. Sl st to join, fasten off.

### Step 5 — Cuffs (optional)
With RS facing, work **2 rounds of sc** around each cuff. Fasten off. (Skip for a raw kimono edge.)

### Step 6 — Button Band & Front/Neck Edging
*(Use the smaller H-8 / 5.0 mm hook for a firmer band, if desired.)*

Choose which front is the **button band side** and which is the **buttonhole side** (traditionally buttonholes on the wearer's right for a woman's garment, but choose your preference).

**Band Round 1 (RS):** Join yarn at bottom front corner. Work sc evenly up the **right front edge**, around the **back neck**, and down the **left front edge.**
- Work approx. **2 sc per 3 rows** along the vertical front edges and **1 sc in each st** along the back neck so the band lies flat. Turn.

**Band Rows 2–3:** Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Turn.

**Buttonhole Row (Band Row 4 — on the buttonhole side only):**
Mark **6 buttonhole positions** evenly along the buttonhole front edge.
- The first ~½" from the neck edge, the last ~1" from the bottom hem, the remaining 4 spaced evenly between.
- At each marked spot: **ch 2, skip 2 sc**, then continue sc to the next marker. Work plain sc on the opposite (button) side and across the back neck.

> *Buttonhole spacing math:* Front length ≈ 32". Place 6 buttonholes ~5.5" apart for even spacing. ✓

**Band Rows 5–6:** Ch 1, sc in each sc and 2 sc in each ch-2 space across. Turn.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

### Step 7 — Collar (soft turned neckband)
For a cozier winter neckline, after the button band is complete:
- With RS facing, join yarn at the right front neck.
- Work **sc evenly across the back neck and a few inches down each front neck.** Turn.
- Work **6–8 rows of hdc** to create a soft, foldable collar that turns down for warmth. Fasten off.

### Step 8 — Attach Buttons
Sew **6 buttons** to the button-band side, aligning each opposite a buttonhole. Use sewing thread for security.

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## FINISHING

### Step 9 — Block
Gently wet-block or steam-block the finished cardigan to open up the drape, even out the hdc stitches, and relax the seams. Lay flat to dry, shaping to the finished measurements above.

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## QUICK STITCH-COUNT REFERENCE (S/M)
| Piece | Foundation sts | Rows |
|-------|----------------|------|
| Back | 84 | 88 |
| Front (×2) | 42 each | 88 |
| Sleeve (×2) | 62 each | 50 |

**Final check:** Back 84 + Front 42 + Front 42 = **168 sts = 48" bust.** ✓
Each rectangle worked plain in hdc — **no shaping anywhere**, true to kimono construction, with the requested **button-down closure, long length, and soft winter feel** added on top. ✓

Enjoy your cozy new cardigan! 🧶