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Type

Knitting

Difficulty

intermediate

Category

pullover

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AI Thinking Process

Planning

1. **Design Strategy**: Crew-neck raglan jacket (buttoned cardigan), not a pulloverβ€”user asked for a ژاکΨͺ. Worsted stockinette, standard 2–4" ease, 1x1 rib bands/neck, 2x2 hem and cuffs. Intermediate: M1L/M1R raglans, German short rows, sleeve separation, picked-up bands. 2. **Construction Plan**: Method 2 shaped front neck, worked flat throughout the yoke and body; long sleeves in the round from the underarm down. 3. **Quality Assurance**: - Front stitch counts must include neck increases plus raglan increases (never join the fronts). - Underarm CO must match sleeve pickup so sleeve counts stay even for 2x2 cuffs. - Buttoned bust includes overlapping 1x1 bands; body fabric is 2" under the named finished bust. 4. **Final Calculations**: Gauge 20 sts Γ— 28 rows = 4" (US 8 / 5 mm). CO 60 (72, 80, 92, 100). Body at underarm 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) sts. Finished bust (buttoned) 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)". Yoke depth 8Β½ (9, 9Β½, 10, 10Β½)". 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) raglan increase rows.

Verification

[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS] 1. **Completeness**: Title, skill, sizes, measurements, yarn, needles, notions, gauge, notes, abbreviations, yoke (Method 2 + GSR), separation, body, sleeves, bands, neckband, finishing, schematic. Cardigan fronts never joined. 2. **Consistency**: 5 sts/inch. Body 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) = 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" fabric; bands overlap to 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)". Raglans 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) Γ— 8 sts. Fronts 40 (44, 48, 52, 56); sleeves on hold 54 (60, 66, 72, 78); back 80 (88, 96, 104, 112). Underarm 10 (12, 14, 16, 18). Sleeve circ 64 (72, 80, 88, 96). 3. **Constraints**: Round-neck jacket, worsted, intermediate, 5 sizes, US terms, imperial first. Template adapted to open-front cardigan. 4. **Safety**: Neck incs 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) are a subset of raglan rows, not extra rows. Sleeve/back starts: 6+2Γ—24=54; 32+48=80; 8+52=60; 36+52=88; 10+56=66; 40+56=96; 12+60=72; 44+60=104; 14+64=78; 48+64=112. Fronts: 8+8+16=40; 10+8+18=44; 10+10+18=48; 12+10+20=52; 12+12+20=56. 5. **Fix before writing**: 2XL sleeve on hold set to 78 (not 80) so 78+18=96 (multiple of 4 for 2x2). No other corrections.

Pattern

Crew Neck Raglan Jacket

Top-down seamless cardigan with shaped crew neck

Skill level: Intermediate

This is a top-down raglan jacket worked seamlessly. The body is knit flat so the fronts stay open; the sleeves are worked in the round from the underarm down. A shaped front neck (Method 2) forms a classic crew neckline, German short rows raise the back of the neck, and picked-up ribbed bands finish the front and neck. No seaming.

Sizes

Small (Medium, Large, XL, 2XL) To fit bust 34–36 (38–40, 42–44, 46–48, 50–52)" / 86.5–91.5 (96.5–101.5, 106.5–112, 117–122, 127–132) cm

Choose the size with 2–4" (5–10 cm) of positive ease at the bust.

Shown size notes: Instructions are written for Small with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

Finished measurements (after blocking, jacket buttoned)

  • Bust: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)" / 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137) cm
  • Back length (neck cast-on to hem): 23 (24, 25, 26, 27)" / 58.5 (61, 63.5, 66, 68.5) cm
  • Yoke depth (front neck edge to underarm): 8Β½ (9, 9Β½, 10, 10Β½)" / 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm
  • Body length (underarm to hem): 14Β½ (15, 15Β½, 16, 16Β½)" / 37 (38, 39.5, 40.5, 42) cm
  • Upper arm: 12ΒΎ (14Β½, 16, 17Β½, 19ΒΌ)" / 32.5 (37, 40.5, 44.5, 49) cm
  • Sleeve length (underarm to cuff edge): 18 (18, 18Β½, 18Β½, 19)" / 45.5 (45.5, 47, 47, 48.5) cm
  • Wrist (cuffed): 8 (8ΒΎ, 9Β½, 9Β½, 10Β½)" / 20.5 (22, 24, 24, 26.5) cm

Yarn

Worsted weight yarn (CYC 4) Yardage: 1050 (1200, 1380, 1560, 1750) yd / 960 (1100, 1260, 1430, 1600) m Example: 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) skeins of a wool or wool-blend worsted that knits to gauge (approx. 200–220 yd / 183–201 m per 100 g), such as Cascade 220 or Berroco Vintage.

Needles

  • US 8 / 5 mm, 32" (80 cm) circular, plus a second circular or DPNs in the same size for sleeves
  • US 6 / 4 mm, 32" (80 cm) circular, plus DPNs in the same size for ribbing
  • Or sizes needed to obtain gauge

Notions

  • 4 stitch markers (raglan); 1 locking marker (beginning of sleeve round)
  • Waste yarn or stitch holders
  • Tapestry needle
  • 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) buttons, ΒΎ" / 19 mm
  • Row counter (recommended)

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on US 8 / 5 mm, blocked. Ribbing on US 6 / 4 mm will measure slightly tighter.

Check gauge. A difference of 1 stitch in 4" changes bust circumference by about 2".

Notes

  • The jacket is a cardigan: the center front is never joined. Button bands are picked up later.
  • Neckline method: Shaped Front Neck (Method 2). You cast on the back neck, both sleeve tops, and short front-neck edges, then increase at each front edge to lower and round the crew neck. Do not cast on a full neck circumference.
  • Raglan increases: M1L before each marker, M1R after each marker (8 stitches every RS row).
  • Selvedge: knit the first and last stitch of every row for a firm pickup edge.
  • Women’s buttoning: buttonholes are worked on the Right Front (as worn). For a men’s jacket, reverse the bands.
  • Stitch counts appear in italics at checkpoints.

Abbreviations (US)

BO bind off
CO cast on
DS double stitch (German short row)
k knit
k2tog knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
M1L make 1 left: lift the bar between stitches from front to back, knit through the back loop
M1R make 1 right: lift the bar between stitches from back to front, knit through the front loop
p purl
pm place marker
RS right side
slm slip marker
ssk slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
st(s) stitch(es)
St st stockinette stitch (knit RS, purl WS; knit every round in the round)
WS wrong side
yo yarn over

German short-row DS: On the turn, slip the next stitch purlwise with yarn in front, pull the yarn over the needle to the back so the stitch looks doubled, then continue. On the following row, knit or purl both legs of the DS together as 1 stitch.

Pattern

Yoke

With US 8 / 5 mm circular needle, using a long-tail cast-on, CO 60 (72, 80, 92, 100) sts.

Setup Row (WS): K1, p 7 (9, 9, 11, 11), pm, p 6 (8, 10, 12, 14), pm, p 32 (36, 40, 44, 48), pm, p 6 (8, 10, 12, 14), pm, p 7 (9, 9, 11, 11), k1.

Markers divide the work as follows, reading RS from Right Front to Left Front: Right Front 8 (10, 10, 12, 12) | Right Sleeve 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) | Back 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) | Left Sleeve 6 (8, 10, 12, 14) | Left Front 8 (10, 10, 12, 12)
(8+6+32+6+8 = 60 βœ“; 10+8+36+8+10 = 72 βœ“; 10+10+40+10+10 = 80 βœ“; 12+12+44+12+12 = 92 βœ“; 12+14+48+14+12 = 100 βœ“)

Raise the back (German short rows)

Short rows add height at the back only; they do not add stitches and do not change the front yoke depth.

Short Row 1 (RS): Knit to 4 sts before the third marker (Back / Left Sleeve), turn, DS.
Short Row 2 (WS): Purl to 4 sts before the second marker (Right Sleeve / Back), turn, DS.
Short Row 3 (RS): Knit to 4 sts past the DS, working the DS as 1 st, turn, DS.
Short Row 4 (WS): Purl to 4 sts past the DS, working the DS as 1 st, turn, DS.
Short Row 5 (RS): Knit to 4 sts past the DS, turn, DS.
Short Row 6 (WS): Purl to 4 sts past the DS, turn, DS.
Next row (RS): Knit to end of row, working any remaining DS as 1 st.
Next row (WS): K1, purl to last st (working any remaining DS as 1 st), k1.

Shape the crew neck and raglan

Work the fronts, sleeves, and back in St st with garter selvedges (k1 at each end of every row). Neck increases and raglan increases are worked on RS rows.

Neck + Raglan Increase Row (RS): K1, M1R, knit to first marker, M1L, slm, M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slm, M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slm, M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slm, M1R, knit to last st, M1L, k1.
(+10 sts: +1 at each front neck, +8 raglan βœ“)

WS Row: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 7 (7, 9, 9, 11) more times β€” 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) Neck + Raglan Increase Rows total.

Stitch count after neck shaping:

  • Right Front / Left Front: 24 (26, 30, 32, 36) sts each (start + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) neck + 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) raglan βœ“)
  • Each sleeve: 22 (24, 30, 32, 38) sts (start + 2 Γ— 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) βœ“)
  • Back: 48 (52, 60, 64, 72) sts (start + 2 Γ— 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) βœ“)
  • Total: 140 (152, 180, 192, 220) sts (60+10Γ—8=140 βœ“; 72+10Γ—8=152 βœ“; 80+10Γ—10=180 βœ“; 92+10Γ—10=192 βœ“; 100+10Γ—12=220 βœ“)

The front neck is now established. Do not cast on extra center-front stitches.

Raglan increases only

Raglan Increase Row (RS): K1, knit to first marker, M1L, slm, M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slm, M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slm, M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slm, M1R, knit to last st, k1.
(+8 sts βœ“)

WS Row: K1, purl to last st, k1.

Repeat the last 2 rows 15 (17, 17, 19, 19) more times β€” 16 (18, 18, 20, 20) Raglan-only Increase Rows total.

You have now worked 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) raglan increase rows in all (8+16=24 βœ“; 8+18=26 βœ“; 10+18=28 βœ“; 10+20=30 βœ“; 12+20=32 βœ“).

Stitch count at end of raglan increases:

  • Right Front / Left Front: 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts each (24+16=40 βœ“; 26+18=44 βœ“; 30+18=48 βœ“; 32+20=52 βœ“; 36+20=56 βœ“)
  • Each sleeve: 54 (60, 66, 72, 78) sts (22+32=54 βœ“; 24+36=60 βœ“; 30+36=66 βœ“; 32+40=72 βœ“; 38+40=78 βœ“)
  • Back: 80 (88, 96, 104, 112) sts (48+32=80 βœ“; 52+36=88 βœ“; 60+36=96 βœ“; 64+40=104 βœ“; 72+40=112 βœ“)
  • Total: 268 (296, 324, 352, 380) sts (40+54+80+54+40=268 βœ“; 44+60+88+60+44=296 βœ“; 48+66+96+66+48=324 βœ“; 52+72+104+72+52=352 βœ“; 56+78+112+78+56=380 βœ“)

Even yoke

Work even in St st with garter selvedges for 12 (12, 12, 10, 10) rows, ending with a WS row.

Yoke should measure about 8Β½ (9, 9Β½, 10, 10Β½)" / 21.5 (23, 24, 25.5, 26.5) cm from the front neck edge to the needle. Adjust even rows if you need a deeper or shallower armhole; try the jacket on before separating.

Separate body and sleeves

Separation Row (RS): K 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) Right Front sts, place the next 54 (60, 66, 72, 78) Right Sleeve sts on waste yarn, using the backward-loop method CO 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) underarm sts, k 80 (88, 96, 104, 112) Back sts, place the next 54 (60, 66, 72, 78) Left Sleeve sts on waste yarn, CO 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) underarm sts, k 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) Left Front sts.

Body: 40+10+80+10+40 = 180 βœ“; 44+12+88+12+44 = 200 βœ“; 48+14+96+14+48 = 220 βœ“; 52+16+104+16+52 = 240 βœ“; 56+18+112+18+56 = 260 βœ“

Next row (WS): K1, purl to last st, k1.

Body

Continue in St st with garter selvedges on 180 (200, 220, 240, 260) sts until the body measures 12Β½ (13, 13Β½, 14, 14Β½)" / 32 (33, 34.5, 35.5, 37) cm from the underarm, ending with a WS row.

Hem

Change to US 6 / 4 mm.

Rib Row (RS): K1, *k2, p2; repeat from * to last 3 sts, k2, k1.
Rib Row (WS): K1, p2, *k2, p2; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Work in 2Γ—2 rib as established until hem measures 2" / 5 cm. BO loosely in rib.

Body from underarm to BO: 14Β½ (15, 15Β½, 16, 16Β½)" / 37 (38, 39.5, 40.5, 42) cm.

Sleeves

Place 54 (60, 66, 72, 78) held sleeve sts on US 8 / 5 mm DPNs or a short circular. Beginning at the center of the underarm, pick up and knit 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) sts along the underarm cast-on, knit the held sts, and join to work in the round. Pm for beginning of round at the center of the underarm.

64 (72, 80, 88, 96) sts (54+10=64 βœ“; 60+12=72 βœ“; 66+14=80 βœ“; 72+16=88 βœ“; 78+18=96 βœ“)

If a small hole appears at either raglan corner, pick up 1 extra st in the gap and k2tog on the next round so the count stays 64 (72, 80, 88, 96).

Knit 8 rounds even.

Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. (2 sts decreased βœ“)

Work Decrease Round every 8th (8th, 7th, 5th, 5th) round 11 (13, 15, 19, 21) more times β€” 12 (14, 16, 20, 22) decrease rounds total.

40 (44, 48, 48, 52) sts (64βˆ’24=40 βœ“; 72βˆ’28=44 βœ“; 80βˆ’32=48 βœ“; 88βˆ’40=48 βœ“; 96βˆ’44=52 βœ“)

Work even until sleeve measures 16 (16, 16Β½, 16Β½, 17)" / 40.5 (40.5, 42, 42, 43) cm from the underarm.

Cuff

Change to US 6 / 4 mm DPNs.

Work k2, p2 rib in the round for 2" / 5 cm. BO loosely in rib.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

Button bands

With US 6 / 4 mm circular needle and RS facing, beginning at the Right Front hem edge, pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along the Right Front selvedge to the neck edge. Adjust by 1 st if needed so the total is an odd number.

Row 1 (WS): *P1, k1; repeat from * to last st, p1.
Row 2 (RS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to last st, k1.

Work 2 more rows in 1Γ—1 rib as established.

Buttonhole Row (RS): Work 4 sts in rib, *yo, k2tog, rib until the next buttonhole position; repeat from * until 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) buttonholes have been made, rib to end.

Space buttonholes evenly: the first about Β½" / 1.5 cm from the neck edge of the band, the last about Β½" / 1.5 cm from the hem, and the rest equally between them.

Work 3 more rows in 1Γ—1 rib. Band measures about 1ΒΌ" / 3 cm. BO loosely in rib.

With RS facing, beginning at the Left Front neck edge, pick up the same number of sts along the Left Front to the hem. Work 1Γ—1 rib for 8 rows with no buttonholes. BO loosely in rib.

Neckband

With US 6 / 4 mm circular needle and RS facing, beginning at the Right Front band’s top corner, pick up and knit:

  • 7 sts across the top of the Right Front band
  • 3 sts for every 4 rows down the Right Front neck slope
  • 1 st in each remaining neck cast-on stitch (Right Front, Right Sleeve, Back, Left Sleeve, Left Front)
  • 3 sts for every 4 rows up the Left Front neck slope
  • 7 sts across the top of the Left Front band

Adjust by 1 st if needed so the total is even.

Work 1Γ—1 rib (k1, p1) back and forth for 8 rows (about 1" / 2.5 cm). If the neckband flares, work one RS decrease row: (k1, p1, k2tog) around as needed, keeping 1Γ—1 rib, then continue even. BO loosely in rib.

Finishing

  1. Weave in ends, closing any underarm gaps with the yarn tail.
  2. Wet-block the jacket to the finished measurements. Pin the fronts straight and the crew neck to a smooth oval; do not stretch the ribbing.
  3. Sew buttons to the Left Front band, opposite the buttonholes.
  4. Steam the bands lightly if they roll.

Schematic (blocked)

                    neck opening ~ 16–18" (40.5–45.5 cm)
                   /----------------------\
                  /    raglan (diagonal)    \
                 /                            \
        8Β½ (9, 9Β½, 10, 10Β½)"              sleeves
        yoke depth                         18 (18, 18Β½, 18Β½, 19)"
                 \                            /
                  \        underarm          /
                   +------------------------+
                   |                        |
                   |   bust 38 (42, 46,     |
                   |       50, 54)"         |  body 14Β½ (15, 15Β½, 16, 16Β½)"
                   |   (buttoned)           |
                   |                        |
                   +------------------------+
                            hem

Upper arm: 12ΒΎ (14Β½, 16, 17Β½, 19ΒΌ)" / 32.5 (37, 40.5, 44.5, 49) cm
Total back length: 23 (24, 25, 26, 27)" / 58.5 (61, 63.5, 66, 68.5) cm

Quick reference β€” stitch map

Location S M L XL 2XL
Cast-on 60 72 80 92 100
After neck + raglan (8/8/10/10/12 rows) 140 152 180 192 220
After all raglan incs 268 296 324 352 380
Each front at split 40 44 48 52 56
Each sleeve on hold 54 60 66 72 78
Back at split 80 88 96 104 112
Underarm CO (each) 10 12 14 16 18
Body 180 200 220 240 260
Sleeve in the round 64 72 80 88 96
Cuff 40 44 48 48 52

Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, charts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk

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