Cuff-Down Stranded Colorwork Socks

Skill level: Intermediate

A cuff-down sock with 1x1 rib cuff in CC1, stranded motif on the leg and foot, classic slipped-stitch heel flap and short-row heel turn in CC1, gusset decreases on the sole, and a wedge toe in CC1. Worked on a short circular needle, with magic loop for the toe.

Sizes

1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8)

Instructions are given as Size 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.

To fit foot circumference: 7¼ (7¾) 8¼ (8¾) 9½ (10) 10½ (11) in [18 (19.5) 21 (22.5) 24 (25.5) 26.5 (28) cm]

Finished leg/foot circumference: 6¾ (7½) 8 (8½) 9¼ (9¾) 10¼ (10¾) in [17 (19) 20.5 (21.5) 23.5 (25) 26 (27.5) cm], with about ⅜ in [1 cm] negative ease.

Leg length (cuff + leg): about 6½ in [16.5 cm], or to desired length.

Foot length: adjustable. Work until the foot measures 2 (2) 2¼ (2¼) 2½ (2¾) 2¾ (3) in [5 (5) 5.5 (5.5) 6.5 (7) 7 (7.5) cm] less than the desired finished foot length, measured from the back of the heel.

If you are between sizes, size up: stranded fabric has less stretch than plain stockinette.

Yarn

Light fingering / sock yarn (shown at 32 sts = 4 in [10 cm]).

MC (background): 175 (200) 225 (250) 275 (300) 325 (375) yd [160 (185) 205 (230) 250 (275) 295 (345) m]

CC1 (cuff, motif, heel, and toe): 200 (225) 250 (275) 300 (325) 350 (400) yd [185 (205) 230 (250) 275 (295) 320 (365) m]

Quantities are for a pair and assume a moderately dense motif; a very heavy motif will use more CC1 and less MC.

Needles

• US 2.5 / 3 mm short circular (8 or 9 in [20 or 23 cm]) for cuff, leg, heel, gusset, and foot
• US 2.5 / 3 mm 32 in [80 cm] circular for magic-loop toe decreases
• Optional: matching DPNs if you prefer them for the toe

Use the needle size needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

• Stitch markers (3, one distinct for BOR)
• Tapestry needle
• Optional: spare circular cable or stitch holder for instep stitches

Gauge

32 sts and 38 rnds = 4 x 4 in [10 x 10 cm] in stranded colorwork, worked in the round, on US 2.5 / 3 mm, after blocking.

Check gauge in stranded fabric, not in rib. Adjust needle size if needed.

Abbreviations

Notes

• The sock is worked cuff down. Join in the round and be careful not to twist.
• Cuff, heel flap, heel turn, and toe are worked solid in CC1. Leg, gusset, and foot are worked in stranded colorwork with MC and CC1.
• Work the stranded motif using MC as the background (hold MC below) and CC1 as the motif (hold CC1 above) unless you prefer the opposite dominance. Catch floats at least every 3–4 sts, especially on the sole.
• A motif chart may be used for the colorwork. If you are working without a chart, work a stranded pattern of your choice, repeating it around the sock and keeping floats short. Do not force a motif to a stitch count it will not divide; center a panel on the instep if needed.
• Heel flap is worked flat in CC1. Instep stitches may remain parked on the short circular.
• After the heel turn, BOR sits at the center of the heel. Gusset extra stitches live on the bottom of the foot; decreases are worked on the sole, just beside the instep.
• Change to the long circular and magic loop for the toe. You may work the entire sock in magic loop if you prefer.

Stitch patterns

1x1 Rib (in the round) *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

Slipped-stitch heel flap (worked flat, even st count) Row 1 (RS): *Sl 1 wyib, k1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, p to end. Rep Rows 1–2.

Pattern

Cuff

With CC1 and short circular, CO 54 (60) 64 (68) 74 (78) 82 (86) sts using a stretchy cast-on (long-tail or German twisted). Join in the round, pm for BOR.

Work 1x1 rib until cuff measures 1½ in [4 cm].

Leg

Join MC. Work in stranded colorwork with MC and CC1, repeating the motif around the leg.

Continue until the piece measures 6½ in [16.5 cm] from the cast-on edge, or to desired leg length, ending after a complete motif round if possible.

Break MC. Remainder of the heel is worked in CC1 only.

Heel flap

The heel is worked flat in CC1 over 28 (30) 32 (34) 36 (38) 40 (42) sts. The remaining 26 (30) 32 (34) 38 (40) 42 (44) instep sts sit unused on the needle (or on a holder).

Check: 28 + 26 = 54; 30 + 30 = 60; 32 + 32 = 64; 34 + 34 = 68; 36 + 38 = 74; 38 + 40 = 78; 40 + 42 = 82; 42 + 44 = 86 ✓

With RS facing and CC1, work the slipped-stitch heel flap back and forth over the 28 (30) 32 (34) 36 (38) 40 (42) heel sts only.

Work 28 (30) 32 (34) 36 (38) 40 (42) rows, ending with a WS row. There are 14 (15) 16 (17) 18 (19) 20 (21) slipped selvedge sts along each edge for pickup.

Heel turn

Continue in CC1. Short-row turn; gaps are closed with ssk / p2tog (no wraps).

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, k 15 (15) 17 (17) 19 (19) 21 (21), ssk, k1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, p 5 (3) 5 (3) 5 (3) 5 (3), p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1, k to 1 st before the gap, ssk (closing the gap), k1, turn.

Row 4: Sl 1, p to 1 st before the gap, p2tog (closing the gap), p1, turn.

Rep Rows 3–4 until all heel sts have been worked, ending with a WS row.

16 (16) 18 (18) 20 (20) 22 (22) sts remain.

Check: 28 − 12 = 16; 30 − 14 = 16; 32 − 14 = 18; 34 − 16 = 18; 36 − 16 = 20; 38 − 18 = 20; 40 − 18 = 22; 42 − 20 = 22 ✓

Gusset

Resume working in the round. BOR is the center of the heel turn. Pickup and the first arrangement round are in CC1; all following gusset and foot rounds are stranded colorwork with MC and CC1.

Setup rnd (CC1): K 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (10) 11 (11) heel sts (to the end of the remaining heel sts), pick up and k 14 (15) 16 (17) 18 (19) 20 (21) sts along the left flap edge (1 st in each slipped selvedge), pm for instep, work across 26 (30) 32 (34) 38 (40) 42 (44) instep sts, pm for end of instep, pick up and k 14 (15) 16 (17) 18 (19) 20 (21) sts along the right flap edge, k remaining 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (10) 11 (11) heel sts to BOR.

If a hole appears at either corner where flap meets instep, pick up 1 extra st in that gap and work one extra decrease later.

70 (76) 82 (86) 94 (98) 104 (108) sts.

Check: 16 + 14 + 14 + 26 = 70; 16 + 15 + 15 + 30 = 76; 18 + 16 + 16 + 32 = 82; 18 + 17 + 17 + 34 = 86; 20 + 18 + 18 + 38 = 94; 20 + 19 + 19 + 40 = 98; 22 + 20 + 20 + 42 = 104; 22 + 21 + 21 + 44 = 108 ✓

Join MC. Work the rest of the gusset and the foot in stranded colorwork. Decreases sit on the bottom of the foot, at each side of the instep.

Decrease rnd: Work in colorwork to 3 sts before instep marker, k2tog, k1, sm, work instep in colorwork, sm, k1, ssk, work in colorwork to BOR. (2 sts decreased)

Even rnd: Work even in colorwork.

Rep the last 2 rnds 7 (7) 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (10) more times — 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (10) 11 (11) decrease rnds in total.

54 (60) 64 (68) 74 (78) 82 (86) sts.

Check: 70 − 16 = 54; 76 − 16 = 60; 82 − 18 = 64; 86 − 18 = 68; 94 − 20 = 74; 98 − 20 = 78; 104 − 22 = 82; 108 − 22 = 86 ✓ (8 × 2 = 16; 8 × 2 = 16; 9 × 2 = 18; 9 × 2 = 18; 10 × 2 = 20; 10 × 2 = 20; 11 × 2 = 22; 11 × 2 = 22 ✓)

Remove the instep markers. Keep BOR at the center of the sole.

Foot

Continue even in stranded colorwork on 54 (60) 64 (68) 74 (78) 82 (86) sts until the foot measures 2 (2) 2¼ (2¼) 2½ (2¾) 2¾ (3) in [5 (5) 5.5 (5.5) 6.5 (7) 7 (7.5) cm] less than the desired finished foot length, measured from the back of the heel.

Break MC. Toe is worked in CC1 only.

Toe

Change to the long circular and magic loop. With CC1, rearrange so each half of the loop holds 27 (30) 32 (34) 37 (39) 41 (43) sts — sole on one half, instep on the other (move 1 st between halves if needed: Size 1 moves 1 sole st to instep; Sizes 5–8 move 1 instep st to sole; Sizes 2–4 are already even).

Place a marker at the second half if you find it helpful. BOR remains at the start of the sole half.

Decrease rnd: *K1, ssk, k to 3 sts before the end of the half, k2tog, k1; rep from * once more. (4 sts decreased)

Even rnd: K.

Work Decrease rnd every other rnd until 30 (32) 32 (36) 38 (38) 42 (42) sts remain.

Check: 54 − 24 = 30 (6 decrease rnds); 60 − 28 = 32 (7); 64 − 32 = 32 (8); 68 − 32 = 36 (8); 74 − 36 = 38 (9); 78 − 40 = 38 (10); 82 − 40 = 42 (10); 86 − 44 = 42 (11) ✓

Then work Decrease rnd every rnd until 10 (8) 8 (8) 10 (10) 10 (10) sts remain.

Check: 30 − 20 = 10 (5 rnds); 32 − 24 = 8 (6); 32 − 24 = 8 (6); 36 − 28 = 8 (7); 38 − 28 = 10 (7); 38 − 28 = 10 (7); 42 − 32 = 10 (8); 42 − 32 = 10 (8) ✓

Arrange 5 (4) 4 (4) 5 (5) 5 (5) sts on each half.

Finishing

Graft the remaining sts together with Kitchener stitch in CC1.

Weave in ends. Block gently to measurements, taking care not to stretch the colorwork beyond gauge.

Work the second sock the same way.