purlJam

---

# DELICATE BLACK TURTLENECK PULLOVER
### A Seamless Top-Down Raglan Pullover for Ladies

---

## AT A GLANCE

**Design:** Classic ribbed turtleneck pullover with long tapered sleeves, seamless top-down raglan construction  
**Difficulty:** Advanced  
**Construction:** Top-down, worked in the round  
**Sizes:** XS, S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X  
**Recommended For:** Ladies

---

## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

| Measurement | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Finished Bust (in) | 34 | 38 | 42 | 46 | 50 | 54 | 58 | 62 | 66 |
| Finished Bust (cm) | 86.5 | 96.5 | 106.5 | 117 | 127 | 137 | 147.5 | 157.5 | 167.5 |
| Body Length (in)* | 24 | 24.5 | 25 | 25.5 | 26 | 26.5 | 27 | 27.5 | 28 |
| Sleeve Length (in)** | 18 | 18.5 | 19 | 19 | 19.5 | 19.5 | 20 | 20 | 20.5 |
| Turtleneck Height (in) | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 7 |
| Yoke Depth (in) | 8 | 8.5 | 9 | 9.5 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12 |

*Body length measured from underarm to hem, not including yoke.  
**Sleeve length measured from underarm to end of cuff ribbing.

**Ease:** Approximately 2 inches (5 cm) positive ease at bust. For a closer fit, size down; for a roomier fit, size up.

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Weight:** Worsted (4)
- **Recommended Fiber:** 100% fine merino wool or merino blend (for drape, softness, and that delicate quality against the skin)
- **Color:** Black (1 skein dye lot — purchase all skeins from same dye lot)
- **Yardage Required:**

| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1,050 yds | 1,200 yds | 1,380 yds | 1,560 yds | 1,750 yds | 1,950 yds | 2,150 yds | 2,370 yds | 2,600 yds |
| (960 m) | (1,097 m) | (1,262 m) | (1,427 m) | (1,600 m) | (1,784 m) | (1,966 m) | (2,168 m) | (2,378 m) |

> **Designer Note on Black Yarn:** Working with black yarn is beautiful but challenging for stitch visibility. Choose a yarn with a slight sheen (merino, silk-merino blend) or a subtle texture that helps you feel stitches as well as see them. Work in strong natural light or use a daylight lamp. A lightly textured yarn in a very deep charcoal (rather than pure matte black) can make counting stitches significantly easier while still reading as black.

**Sample Yarn Suggestions:** Cascade 220 Superwash (100% superwash merino, 220 yds/200 m per 100 g skein); Malabrigo Rios (100% merino, 210 yds/192 m per 100 g skein); Berroco Vintage (52% acrylic, 40% wool, 8% nylon, 218 yds/200 m per 100 g skein).

### Needles
- **US 8 / 5 mm** — 32 inch (80 cm) circular needle (body and yoke)
- **US 7 / 4.5 mm** — 16 inch (40 cm) circular needle (turtleneck collar)
- **US 8 / 5 mm** — 16 inch (40 cm) circular needle OR 32–40 inch circular for magic loop (sleeves)
- **US 7 / 4.5 mm** — 16 inch (40 cm) circular needle OR DPNs (cuffs and lower hem ribbing)

*Always check your gauge. Adjust needle size as needed to achieve correct gauge.*

### Notions
- 8 locking stitch markers (4 different colors recommended: 2 for raglan lines, 2 for sleeve markers — see notes in pattern)
- 2 removable stitch markers or safety pins
- Stitch holder or waste yarn (for sleeve stitches)
- Tapestry needle (for finishing)
- Measuring tape
- Row counter (strongly recommended for this project)

---

## GAUGE

**20 stitches × 28 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** in stockinette stitch, worked in the round, on US 8 / 5 mm needles, blocked.

**18 stitches × 24 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** in 2×2 rib, worked in the round, on US 7 / 4.5 mm needles, slightly stretched.

> **Gauge is critical for sizing.** Knit a swatch at least 6 inches (15 cm) square, wash and block it the same way you plan to treat the finished garment, and measure when dry. Even a half-stitch difference per inch will result in a finished sweater that is multiple inches too large or too small.

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| BO | bind off |
| BOR | beginning of round |
| CO | cast on |
| dec | decrease |
| inc | increase |
| k | knit |
| k2tog | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| kfb | knit into front and back of stitch (increase) |
| LI (left lifted increase) | insert left needle tip into left leg of stitch 1 row below stitch on right needle; knit through back loop |
| m | marker |
| m1l | make 1 left (left-leaning lifted increase): insert left needle tip from front to back under bar between sts; knit through back loop |
| m1r | make 1 right (right-leaning lifted increase): insert left needle tip from back to front under bar between sts; knit through front loop |
| p | purl |
| pm | place marker |
| rem | remaining |
| rep | repeat |
| rnd(s) | round(s) |
| RS | right side |
| sl m | slip marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| ssk | slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time; knit together through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| WS | wrong side |
| w&t | wrap and turn (short row technique) |

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Raglan Increase Round
**Rnd:** \*Knit to 1 st before raglan marker, m1r, k1, sl m, k1, m1l; rep from \* 4 times, knit to end of round. *(8 sts increased)*

### Short Rows for Front Neck Shaping (German Short Rows)
After placing the final short row, work a "double stitch": slip the first stitch purlwise with yarn in front, then bring yarn over needle to back — this creates a doubled stitch that closes the gap neatly. When you encounter the double stitch later, knit (or purl) both legs together as one stitch.

### Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off
*Used for turtleneck collar top edge:*
- For a knit stitch: yo (backwards), k1, pass yo over; \*yo (backwards), k1, pass 2 sts over; rep from \*.
- For a purl stitch: yo (forward), p1, pass yo over; \*yo (forward), p1, pass 2 sts over; rep from \*.

### Magic Loop
Using a 32–40 inch circular needle, fold the cable at the midpoint of the sleeve stitches, pulling a loop of cable out between stitches. Work the stitches from one needle tip at a time.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. The sweater is worked from the top down: turtleneck collar first, then yoke, then body and sleeves are worked simultaneously (yoke), then separated and finished independently.
2. The turtleneck collar is worked on needles one size smaller than the body for a snug, flattering fit. It can be worn folded over (the classic look) or straight up.
3. **Stitch marker placement:** You will use 4 raglan markers (placed between each raglan section: left back/left sleeve, left sleeve/front, front/right sleeve, right sleeve/back). Use distinctive markers — they are your navigation system.
4. Short rows at the front neck add depth so the turtleneck sits naturally and doesn't pull forward. Do not skip this step.
5. The body and sleeves are worked in stockinette stitch (knit every round when working in the round).
6. Hem and cuffs are worked in 2×2 rib on needles one size smaller for a neat, fitted edge.
7. Join yarn with a long tail — do not cut yarn between turtleneck and yoke; you simply change needles.

---

## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

---

### SECTION 1: TURTLENECK COLLAR

**Needles:** US 7 / 4.5 mm, 16 inch circular

Using the long-tail cast on method, CO the following number of stitches:

| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 88 sts | 92 sts | 96 sts | 100 sts | 108 sts | 112 sts | 116 sts | 120 sts | 124 sts |

All stitch counts are divisible by 4 for 2×2 rib.

Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place BOR marker.

**Setup Rnd:** \*K2, p2; rep from \* to end of round.

Work in established 2×2 rib (k2, p2 every round) until collar measures **7 inches (18 cm)** from cast-on edge.

> **Tip:** For a deeply foldable collar, work to 9 inches (23 cm) total. The fold will sit at approximately the 4.5-inch mark, with a luxuriously full double roll. The standard 7 inches creates a tall collar that can fold once or stand upright.

**Do NOT bind off.** Transfer stitches to your US 8 / 5 mm, 32 inch circular needle, or simply continue on a longer needle. The collar is complete; you will now begin the yoke.

---

### SECTION 2: YOKE SETUP — FRONT NECK SHORT ROWS

Before placing raglan markers and beginning raglan increases, work short rows to add depth to the front neck. This is what makes a turtleneck sit beautifully without pulling forward.

You should have your collar stitches on the needle with the BOR at the back of the neck (center back).

**Step 1 — Identify sections:**
Count out your stitches as follows (approximate; adjust by 1–2 sts if needed to keep sections even):

| Size | Back Sts | Each Sleeve Sts | Front Sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 28 | 12 | 36 |
| S | 28 | 12 | 40 |
| M | 28 | 14 | 40 |
| L | 28 | 16 | 40 |
| XL | 32 | 16 | 44 |
| 2X | 32 | 16 | 48 |
| 3X | 32 | 18 | 48 |
| 4X | 32 | 20 | 48 |
| 5X | 32 | 20 | 52 |

> **Verify:** Back + (2 × Sleeve) + Front = Total Collar CO. Example XS: 28 + 24 + 36 = 88 ✅

**Step 2 — Place raglan markers:**
Starting from BOR (center back), knit across back stitches to the last back stitch. Place raglan marker (m1). K across left sleeve sts. Place marker (m2). K across front sts. Place marker (m3). K across right sleeve sts. Place marker (m4). You are back at BOR.

**Step 3 — Work German Short Rows for front neck:**

*Short Row 1 (RS, begin here):* Knit to 3 sts past marker m3 (center front right side). Turn work. Make a double stitch (DS): bring yarn to front, slip first st purlwise, bring yarn over needle to back. Purl back to 3 sts past marker m2 (center front left side). Turn. Make DS.

*Short Row 2:* Knit to 2 sts before previous DS, turn, make DS. Purl to 2 sts before previous DS on opposite side, turn, make DS.

*Short Row 3:* Knit to 2 sts before previous DS, turn, make DS. Purl to 2 sts before previous DS, turn, make DS.

On the next round, work in the round resolving all DS (knit or purl both legs of each DS together as one stitch when you reach them). After working all DS, you will have returned to working smoothly in the round.

---

### SECTION 3: YOKE — RAGLAN INCREASES

**Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm, 32 inch circular

**Beginning stitch counts after short rows are resolved** (same as collar CO — no stitches added, short rows only shaped the depth):

| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 88 sts | 92 sts | 96 sts | 100 sts | 108 sts | 112 sts | 116 sts | 120 sts | 124 sts |

**Raglan Increase Round (RI Rnd):**
\*Knit to 1 stitch before raglan marker, m1r, k1, sl m, k1, m1l; rep from \* 3 more times, knit to end. *(8 sts increased per Raglan Increase Round)*

**Plain Round:** Knit all stitches.

**Work as follows:** Alternate 1 RI Rnd, 1 Plain Rnd throughout the yoke.

**Number of Raglan Increase Rounds to work:**

| Size | RI Rnds | Sts Added | Final Yoke Sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 20 | 160 | 248 |
| S | 24 | 192 | 284 |
| M | 27 | 216 | 312 |
| L | 30 | 240 | 340 |
| XL | 33 | 264 | 372 |
| 2X | 36 | 288 | 400 |
| 3X | 39 | 312 | 428 |
| 4X | 42 | 336 | 456 |
| 5X | 45 | 360 | 484 |

> **Verify Final Yoke Sts:** CO + (RI Rnds × 8). Example XS: 88 + (20 × 8) = 88 + 160 = 248 ✅

**Check yoke depth as you work.** After all increases are complete, your yoke should measure approximately:

| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8 in | 8.5 in | 9 in | 9.5 in | 10 in | 10.5 in | 11 in | 11.5 in | 12 in |

> **Note:** Yoke depth is measured from the base of the turtleneck collar (where you switched to the larger needle), not from the CO edge. If your yoke depth is reached before all increase rounds are complete, work even (plain rounds only) until the yoke reaches the target depth. Likewise, if the increases are complete but depth is short, work additional plain rounds. Correct yoke depth takes precedence.

**Stitch distribution after yoke increases:**

| Size | Back Sts | Each Sleeve | Front Sts | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 68 | 52 | 76 | 248 |
| S | 76 | 60 | 88 | 284 |
| M | 82 | 68 | 94 | 312 |
| L | 88 | 76 | 100 | 340 |
| XL | 98 | 84 | 106 | 372 |
| 2X | 104 | 92 | 112 | 400 |
| 3X | 110 | 100 | 118 | 428 |
| 4X | 116 | 108 | 124 | 456 |
| 5X | 124 | 116 | 128 | 484 |

> **Verify:** Back + (2 × Sleeve) + Front = Total. Example XS: 68 + 104 + 76 = 248 ✅  
> **Note:** Each section grows by (RI Rnds × 2) sts: Back and Front each add 2 sts per RI Rnd, each sleeve adds 2 sts per RI Rnd.

---

### SECTION 4: SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES

You are now ready to separate the sleeve stitches from the body and cast on underarm stitches.

**Underarm cast-on:**

| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6 sts each | 6 sts each | 8 sts each | 8 sts each | 8 sts each | 10 sts each | 10 sts each | 10 sts each | 12 sts each |

**Instructions:**
1. Knit across back stitches to the first raglan marker.
2. Remove raglan marker. Place all sleeve stitches on waste yarn or stitch holder (slip them purlwise). Remove second raglan marker.
3. Using the backward loop cast on (or cable cast on for a firmer edge), CO the required underarm stitches onto the right needle. Place a removable marker at the center of these underarm stitches (you'll pick these up later for the sleeves).
4. Knit across front stitches to the next raglan marker.
5. Remove raglan marker. Place all sleeve stitches on waste yarn or stitch holder. Remove final raglan marker.
6. CO the required underarm stitches. Place removable marker at center.
7. Knit to BOR marker.

**Body stitch count (front + back + both underarm CO):**

| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 170 sts | 190 sts | 210 sts | 230 sts | 250 sts | 270 sts | 290 sts | 310 sts | 330 sts |

> **Verify:** Back + Front + (2 × Underarm CO). Example XS: 68 + 76 + 12 = 156... 

> **Recalculation note for accuracy:**  
> XS: Back 68 + Front 76 + (2 × 6) = 68 + 76 + 12 = 156 sts.  
> *Target body sts for 34-inch finished bust at 5 sts/in = 170 sts.*  
> Discrepancy: 14 sts. This is resolved by working a **body increase round** immediately after separation (see below).

**Body Increase Round (worked immediately after separation, once):**

Work 1 round of evenly spaced increases to bring the body stitch count to the target. Distribute increases evenly around the round.

| Size | Current Body Sts | Target Body Sts | Increases Needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 156 | 170 | 14 increases |
| S | 172 | 190 | 18 increases |
| M | 194 | 210 | 16 increases |
| L | 208 | 230 | 22 increases |
| XL | 220 | 250 | 30 increases |
| 2X | 234 | 270 | 36 increases |
| 3X | 248 | 290 | 42 increases |
| 4X | 258 | 310 | 52 increases |
| 5X | 276 | 330 | 54 increases |

> **Instructions:** \*K the number of stitches indicated, m1l; rep from \* until all increases are worked, k to end. Space as evenly as possible. Exact placement is not critical; the increases will be invisible in stockinette.

> **Tip:** Alternatively, you may prefer to cast on more underarm stitches (skipping the increase round). The body increase round is included here so sleeve stitch counts remain logical. Both methods are correct.

---

### SECTION 5: BODY

**Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm, 32 inch circular

You now have the following body stitch counts on your needle:

| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 170 sts | 190 sts | 210 sts | 230 sts | 250 sts | 270 sts | 290 sts | 310 sts | 330 sts |

All counts are even. ✅

**Work in stockinette** (knit every round) until body measures the following from the underarm:

| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 21.5 in | 22 in | 22.5 in | 23 in | 23.5 in | 24 in | 24.5 in | 25 in | 25.5 in |

*(This leaves approximately 2.5 inches for the ribbed hem.)*

> **Optional Waist Shaping:** For a more tailored silhouette, work waist shaping as follows:
> 
> After 4 inches from underarm, place side markers at the halfway point of front and halfway point of back.
> 
> **Decrease Round:** K2, k2tog, knit to 4 sts before next side marker, ssk, k2, sl m, k2, k2tog, knit to 4 sts before BOR, ssk, k2. *(4 sts decreased)*
> 
> Work decrease round every 8 rounds, 3 times total. (12 sts decreased total)
> 
> Work even for 2 inches.
> 
> **Increase Round:** K2, m1l, knit to 2 sts before side marker, m1r, k2, sl m, k2, m1l, knit to 2 sts before BOR, m1r, k2. *(4 sts increased)*
> 
> Work increase round every 8 rounds, 3 times total. (12 sts re-added)
> 
> Continue to hem. Stitch count returns to original body count.

#### Hem Ribbing

**Needles:** Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm, 32 inch circular.

If stitch count is not divisible by 4, adjust on the first rib round: work 1–3 evenly spaced invisible decreases (k2tog) or increases (m1) as needed.

> **Check:** All body stitch counts (170, 190, 210, 230, 250, 270, 290, 310, 330) — verify divisibility by 4:
> - 170 ÷ 4 = 42.5 ❌ → Decrease 2 sts on first rib round (168 sts) or increase 2 sts (172 sts) — work 2 invisible k2tog at side "seam" points.
> - 190 ÷ 4 = 47.5 ❌ → Decrease 2 sts (188 sts)
> - 210 ÷ 4 = 52.5 ❌ → Decrease 2 sts (208 sts)
> - 230 ÷ 4 = 57.5 ❌ → Decrease 2 sts (228 sts)
> - 250 ÷ 4 = 62.5 ❌ → Decrease 2 sts (248 sts)
> - 270 ÷ 4 = 67.5 ❌ → Decrease 2 sts (268 sts)
> - 290 ÷ 4 = 72.5 ❌ → Decrease 2 sts (288 sts)
> - 310 ÷ 4 = 77.5 ❌ → Decrease 2 sts (308 sts)
> - 330 ÷ 4 = 82.5 ❌ → Decrease 2 sts (328 sts)

Work the decrease round as the first rib setup round. Because we want even 2×2 rib, work 1 k2tog at each side "seam" point (underarm position) on the first rib round.

**Rib Setup Rnd:** K the first stitch, k2tog, \*k2, p2; rep from \* to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. *(2 sts decreased — this is sufficient for all sizes as the stitch reduction is only 2 sts)*

Wait — let me re-examine. For XS, 170 is not divisible by 4. We need 168 (decrease 2) or 172 (increase 2). Work 2 evenly-spaced k2tog decreases on the first round when transitioning to rib.

**Setup Round for all sizes:** At the two underarm points (side "seam" positions), work k2tog once at each point. *(2 sts decreased)*

Then continue:

**Rib Rnd:** \*K2, p2; rep from \* to end of round.

Work in established 2×2 rib until ribbing measures **2.5 inches (6.5 cm)**.

**Bind off:** Using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off (see Special Techniques), bind off all stitches in rib pattern. Do not bind off too tightly.

---

### SECTION 6: SLEEVES

Work both sleeves identically.

**Needles:** US 8 / 5 mm, 16 inch circular or 32–40 inch for magic loop

Transfer held sleeve stitches from waste yarn back to needle. Rejoin yarn, leaving a 6-inch tail for closing the underarm gap.

**Pick up underarm stitches:** Pick up and knit the underarm cast-on stitches from the body, picking up 1 stitch for each cast-on stitch. Pick up from the center of the underarm outward to avoid holes.

**Sleeve stitch count after pickup:**

| Size | Held Sts | Underarm Pickup | Total Sleeve Sts |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 52 | 6 | 58 |
| S | 60 | 6 | 66 |
| M | 68 | 8 | 76 |
| L | 76 | 8 | 84 |
| XL | 84 | 8 | 92 |
| 2X | 92 | 10 | 102 |
| 3X | 100 | 10 | 110 |
| 4X | 108 | 10 | 118 |
| 5X | 116 | 12 | 128 |

Place BOR marker at center underarm. Join to work in the round.

**Sleeve Decrease Round:**
K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. *(2 sts decreased)*

**Work sleeve taper as follows:**

| Size | Starting Sts | Target Wrist Sts | Dec Rnd Frequency | Dec Rnds Total | Sts Decreased |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 58 | 42 | Every 6 rnds | 8 | 16 |
| S | 66 | 46 | Every 6 rnds | 10 | 20 |
| M | 76 | 50 | Every 6 rnds | 13 | 26 |
| L | 84 | 52 | Every 7 rnds | 16 | 32 |
| XL | 92 | 56 | Every 7 rnds | 18 | 36 |
| 2X | 102 | 60 | Every 8 rnds | 21 | 42 |
| 3X | 110 | 64 | Every 8 rnds | 23 | 46 |
| 4X | 118 | 68 | Every 8 rnds | 25 | 50 |
| 5X | 128 | 72 | Every 8 rnds | 28 | 56 |

> **Verify (XS):** 58 − (8 × 2) = 58 − 16 = 42 ✅  
> **Verify (M):** 76 − (13 × 2) = 76 − 26 = 50 ✅  
> **Verify (2X):** 102 − (21 × 2) = 102 − 42 = 60 ✅  
> **Verify (5X):** 128 − (28 × 2) = 128 − 56 = 72 ✅

Work plain rounds between decrease rounds as established.

**Check sleeve length:** After all decreases are complete, sleeve should measure approximately:

| XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5X |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 15.5 in | 16 in | 16.5 in | 16.5 in | 17 in | 17 in | 17.5 in | 17.5 in | 18 in |

If sleeve is shorter than target, work additional plain rounds until length is reached. If sleeve is longer, begin cuff sooner.

#### Cuff Ribbing

**Needles:** Switch to US 7 / 4.5 mm, 16 inch circular or DPNs.

**Check divisibility by 4:**
- XS: 42 ÷ 4 = 10.5 ❌ → Work 1 k2tog on setup round (41 — still not divisible) → Work 2 k2tog (40 sts ÷ 4 = 10 ✅)
- S: 46 ÷ 4 = 11.5 ❌ → Work 2 k2tog (44 ÷ 4 = 11 ✅)
- M: 50 ÷ 4 = 12.5 ❌ → Work 2 k2tog (48 ÷ 4 = 12 ✅)
- L: 52 ÷ 4 = 13 ✅
- XL: 56 ÷ 4 = 14 ✅
- 2X: 60 ÷ 4 = 15 ✅
- 3X: 64 ÷ 4 = 16 ✅
- 4X: 68 ÷ 4 = 17 ✅
- 5X: 72 ÷ 4 = 18 ✅

**For XS, S, M only:** On the first cuff round, work 2 evenly spaced k2tog decreases to achieve stitch counts divisible by 4 (40, 44, 48 respectively). Work these at the underside of the wrist.

**Cuff Rnd:** \*K2, p2; rep from \* to end of round.

Work in established 2×2 rib until cuff measures **2.5 inches (6.5 cm)** from needle change.

**Bind off** using Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off in rib pattern.

---

### SECTION 7: FINISHING

1. **Close underarm gaps:** Using the tail left from joining yarn at the underarm, thread a tapestry needle and close any small holes at the underarm join using duplicate stitch or mattress stitch. Weave in tail securely on the WS.

2. **Weave in all ends:** Thread tapestry needle with each yarn tail and weave in on the WS for at least 4 inches (10 cm) in a zigzag direction for security. In black yarn, ends can be nearly invisible — take your time.

3. **Block the sweater:**
   - Fill a basin with cool water and a small amount of wool wash.
   - Submerge the sweater and press gently — do not agitate or wring.
   - Lift out and gently press water from the fabric.
   - Roll in a dry towel and press firmly to remove excess water.
   - Lay flat on a blocking mat or dry towels.
   - Gently shape to finished measurements.
   - Allow to dry completely (12–24 hours) before wearing.
   
   > Blocking is especially important for a pullover worked in black yarn — it evens out stitches, softens the fabric, and is often the difference between "handmade" and "heirloom."

4. **Final check:** Try on the sweater. The turtleneck can be worn folded in half (sitting at about 3.5 inches above the shoulder) or extended fully upward for maximum warmth and drama.

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
┌────────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│              TURTLENECK PULLOVER SCHEMATIC          │
└────────────────────────────────────────────────────┘

     ←——— COLLAR CIRCUMFERENCE ———→
           (at CO edge, slightly stretched)
              XS: ~17.5 in | 5X: ~24.5 in

     ┌───────────────────────────┐   ▲
     │     TURTLENECK COLLAR     │   │ 7 in
     │       (2×2 rib)           │   │
     └──────────┬────────────────┘   ▼
                │
     ┌──────────┴────────────────┐   ▲
     │         YOKE               │   │ 8–12 in
     │   (raglan increases)       │   │ (varies by size)
     └──┬──────────────────┬─────┘   ▼
        │                  │
     (sleeves           (body)
      separated)         ▼
        │
        │          ┌─────────────────────────────┐  ▲
        │          │           BODY               │  │
        │          │       (stockinette)          │  │ 21.5–25.5 in
        │          │                              │  │
        │          │                              │  │
        │          ├─────────────────────────────┤  ▼
        │          │       HEM (2×2 rib)          │  ▲ 2.5 in
        │          └─────────────────────────────┘  ▼
        │
        │   ←——— FINISHED BUST ———→
        │     XS: 34 in | 5X: 66 in
        │
        ▼  SLEEVE
     ┌──────┐   ▲
     │      │   │ 15.5–18 in (to cuff)
     │      │   │
     │      │   │
     ├──────┤   ▼
     │CUFF  │   ▲ 2.5 in
     └──────┘   ▼
```

---

## YARN QUANTITY REFERENCE

*Skeins needed based on 220 yds per 100g skein (e.g., Cascade 220 Superwash):*

| Size | Yardage | Skeins (220 yds ea) |
|---|---|---|
| XS | 1,050 yds | 5 skeins |
| S | 1,200 yds | 6 skeins |
| M | 1,380 yds | 7 skeins |
| L | 1,560 yds | 8 skeins |
| XL | 1,750 yds | 8 skeins |
| 2X | 1,950 yds | 9 skeins |
| 3X | 2,150 yds | 10 skeins |
| 4X | 2,370 yds | 11 skeins |
| 5X | 2,600 yds | 12 skeins |

*Always purchase one extra skein as insurance, especially with black yarn where dye lot matching is critical.*

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## SIZING GUIDE

| Size | Fits Bust | Finished Bust | Ease |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 32 in (81.5 cm) | 34 in (86.5 cm) | +2 in |
| S | 36 in (91.5 cm) | 38 in (96.5 cm) | +2 in |
| M | 40 in (101.5 cm) | 42 in (106.5 cm) | +2 in |
| L | 44 in (112 cm) | 46 in (117 cm) | +2 in |
| XL | 48 in (122 cm) | 50 in (127 cm) | +2 in |
| 2X | 52 in (132 cm) | 54 in (137 cm) | +2 in |
| 3X | 56 in (142 cm) | 58 in (147.5 cm) | +2 in |
| 4X | 60 in (152.5 cm) | 62 in (157.5 cm) | +2 in |
| 5X | 64 in (162.5 cm) | 66 in (167.5 cm) | +2 in |

> **Size selection tip:** For a sweater meant to be worn over a blouse or with layering, choose one size up for additional ease. For a slim, body-conscious silhouette, choose your size as charted. The turtleneck is sized to fit snugly and comfortably at the neck regardless of body size.

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## QUICK REFERENCE — KEY STITCH COUNTS

| Size | Collar CO | Body Sts | Sleeve Sts (at sep.) | Wrist Sts (before cuff dec) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 88 | 170 | 52 ea | 42 |
| S | 92 | 190 | 60 ea | 46 |
| M | 96 | 210 | 68 ea | 50 |
| L | 100 | 230 | 76 ea | 52 |
| XL | 108 | 250 | 84 ea | 56 |
| 2X | 112 | 270 | 92 ea | 60 |
| 3X | 116 | 290 | 100 ea | 64 |
| 4X | 120 | 310 | 108 ea | 68 |
| 5X | 124 | 330 | 116 ea | 72 |

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*Pattern written and technically edited by [Your Name / Studio Name]*  
*For personal use only. Not for resale or commercial reproduction.*  
*Questions? Contact: [your email or Ravelry handle]*

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**Happy knitting — and may your yarn never tangle in the dark! 🖤**