purlJam

<pattern>

# Eddie the Head "The Trooper" Funko-Style Amigurumi Pattern

**Designed by [Pattern Designer]**  
**Finished Size:** Approximately 15 cm (6 inches) tall  
**Skill Level:** Easy (requires basic amigurumi skills: magic ring, increasing, decreasing, and assembly)

---

## MATERIALS

### Yarn
**Worsted Weight (4) Yarn** in the following colors:
- **Beige/Tan** (main skin color): 50g (~100 yards)
- **Dark Gray/Charcoal** (for shadows and decay): 15g (~30 yards)
- **White** (teeth, eye highlights): small amount (~10 yards)
- **Dark Brown or Black** (hair): 30g (~60 yards)
- **Red** (shirt): 40g (~80 yards)
- **Blue or Gray** (pants): 30g (~60 yards)
- **Black** (boots, details): small amount (~15 yards)

**Recommended brands:** Red Heart Super Saver, Lion Brand Vanna's Choice, or similar worsted weight acrylic yarn

### Hook & Notions
- **3.5mm (US E-4) crochet hook** (or size needed for tight gauge)
- **Yarn needle** (tapering/blunt tip for weaving and embroidery)
- **Stitch markers** (to mark beginning of rounds)
- **Straight pins** (for positioning pieces during assembly)
- **Fiberfill stuffing** (polyester, ~50g)
- **Black embroidery floss** or yarn (for facial details)
- **Optional:** Small amount of dark red yarn for mouth shading
- **Optional:** Fabric stiffener or wire for pose stability

### Additional Tools
- Scissors
- Small amount of fabric glue (optional, for securing embroidery)
- Tweezers or stuffing tool for tight spaces

---

## GAUGE & SIZING

**Gauge:** 6 sts × 7 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm) in single crochet with 3.5mm hook

**Important:** Tight gauge is essential for amigurumi to prevent stuffing from showing. Your stitches should be firm and close together. If fabric is too loose, go down a hook size.

**Finished Measurements:**
- Head height: ~9 cm (3.5 inches)
- Head width: ~7 cm (2.75 inches)
- Body height: ~4 cm (1.5 inches)
- Total height with legs: ~15 cm (6 inches)

---

## ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS)

- **ch** = chain
- **sc** = single crochet
- **inc** = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
- **dec** = invisible decrease (insert hook in front loops only of next 2 sts, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook)
- **sl st** = slip stitch
- **FLO** = front loop only
- **BLO** = back loop only
- **st(s)** = stitch(es)
- **rnd(s)** = round(s)
- **yo** = yarn over
- **[ ]** = stitch count at end of round
- **( )** = repeat instructions within parentheses

---

## SPECIAL STITCHES & TECHNIQUES

### Magic Ring (Adjustable Ring)
Wrap yarn around fingers to form a ring, insert hook through ring, pull up a loop, ch 1, work stitches into ring. Pull starting tail to tighten ring closed.

### Invisible Decrease (dec)
Insert hook into front loop only of next stitch, then front loop only of following stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both front loops (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through both loops. This creates a neater decrease than standard sc2tog.

### Color Changes
Work last stitch of old color until 2 loops remain on hook, yarn over with new color and pull through both loops. Continue with new color. Carry unused color inside piece when working stripes.

### Surface Embroidery
Thread yarn needle with contrast color, insert from inside piece to outside at starting point, create stitches on surface following pattern guides, secure ends inside piece.

### Loop Stitch (for hair texture)
Insert hook in stitch, wrap yarn around finger to create ~1 inch loop, hook yarn on both sides of finger, pull through stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops. Remove finger. Loop remains on surface.

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Work in continuous spiral** unless instructed otherwise. Use stitch marker to track beginning of round, moving marker up as you work.

2. **Stuff as you go**, especially for the head. Add small amounts of stuffing frequently for smooth, even shape. Stuff head VERY firmly. Stuff body firmly. Stuff limbs lightly to moderately.

3. **Do not join rounds** unless pattern specifies. Seamless spiral creates smooth surface for Funko-style appearance.

4. **Tension consistency** is crucial. Keep stitches tight and uniform.

5. **Assembly order matters**: Complete all embroidery and facial details BEFORE stuffing head completely. Add hair before or after assembly (instructions provided for both options).

6. **For character accuracy**: Take time with facial feature placement. Eddie's asymmetrical features are key to his recognition.

---

## INSTRUCTIONS

### HEAD

The head is worked from top down in continuous rounds.

**Color:** Beige/Tan (main skin color)

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in magic ring [6]

**Rnd 2:** inc in each st around [12]

**Rnd 3:** (sc, inc) around [18]

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around [24]

**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) around [30]

**Rnd 6:** (4 sc, inc) around [36]

**Rnd 7:** (5 sc, inc) around [42]

**Rnds 8-18:** sc in each st around [42]  
*(Work 11 rounds even. This creates height for the oversized Funko head. Count carefully!)*

**Note:** After Rnd 15, begin planning eye and facial feature placement. Do NOT add features yet—just mark positions with pins or stitch markers.

**Rnd 19:** (5 sc, dec) around [36]

**Rnd 20:** sc in each st around [36]

**Rnd 21:** (4 sc, dec) around [30]

**Rnd 22:** sc in each st around [30]

**⚠️ PAUSE FOR FACIAL FEATURES:** Before continuing, complete all facial embroidery and details (see Facial Features section below). Stuff head lightly at this point—you'll add more stuffing later.

**Rnd 23:** (3 sc, dec) around [24]

**Rnd 24:** (2 sc, dec) around [18]

**⚠️ STUFF HEAD FIRMLY NOW** Add fiberfill stuffing, packing firmly and evenly. Head should feel solid. Add extra stuffing in eye socket areas for definition.

**Rnd 25:** (sc, dec) around [12]

**Rnd 26:** dec around [6]

Fasten off, leaving 12-inch tail. Thread tail through yarn needle and weave through remaining 6 stitches. Pull tight to close hole. Weave in end securely inside head.

**Head Complete!** Set aside.

---

### FACIAL FEATURES GUIDE

Complete these steps after Rnd 22 of head, before continuing decreases. Head should be lightly stuffed to hold shape while working.

#### Eye Socket Placement
**Position:** Between Rnds 12-16 of head, approximately 8-10 stitches apart

**Eddie's Asymmetrical Eyes:**
- **Right eye (larger/more open):** Mark position between Rnds 13-15
- **Left eye (smaller/squinting):** Mark position between Rnds 14-16, slightly higher than right eye

#### Creating Eye Sockets

**Option 1: Deep-Set Eyes (Recommended for Eddie)**

Using Dark Gray yarn and yarn needle:

1. **Right eye (larger):** Create oval shape approximately 4 stitches wide × 3 rounds tall
   - Insert needle from back of head, bring out at top-left corner of eye position
   - Create satin stitches (parallel straight stitches) covering marked area, pulling slightly tighter with each stitch to create depth
   - Fill oval shape completely with stitches

2. **Left eye (squinting):** Create narrower oval shape approximately 3 stitches wide × 2 rounds tall, positioned slightly higher
   - Same technique as right eye, but smaller and more horizontal
   - Pull stitches tighter at top and bottom to create squinting effect

3. **Eye highlights:** Using White yarn, add 2-3 small straight stitches in upper portion of each dark eye socket to suggest reflection (optional but adds life to character)

4. **Eye outline definition:** Using Black embroidery floss, outline each eye socket with backstitch for crisp edges

**Option 2: Simple Embroidered Eyes (Easier Alternative)**

Using Black yarn:
- Right eye: Embroider oval outline, fill with satin stitch
- Left eye: Embroider smaller, more horizontal oval
- Add white highlight stitches in corners

#### Exposed Teeth Grin

**Position:** Between Rnds 16-20, centered below eyes, approximately 10-12 stitches wide

1. **Mouth opening:** Using Black yarn and backstitch, create wide curved line suggesting open mouth with sinister grin
   - Start ~5 stitches left of center at Rnd 17
   - Curve downward to Rnd 19 at center
   - Curve back up to ~5 stitches right of center at Rnd 17
   - This creates wide, unsettling grin

2. **Exposed teeth:** Using White yarn
   - Create individual vertical straight stitches for top teeth along top edge of mouth line (approximately 6-8 teeth, each 1-2 stitches tall)
   - Create similar teeth along bottom edge (slightly smaller)
   - Teeth should be uneven and slightly irregular for undead appearance
   - Leave small gaps between some teeth for decay effect

3. **Gum/mouth interior:** Using Dark Red or Black yarn, fill space between top and bottom teeth with 1-2 horizontal straight stitches for depth

#### Nose Suggestion (Optional)

**Position:** Rnd 15-16, between eyes
- Using same Beige/Tan yarn and vertical straight stitches, create subtle nose bridge suggestion (2-3 stitches only)
- Or omit entirely for flatter Funko face

#### Skin Texture & Decay Details

Using Dark Gray yarn and yarn needle, add texture to suggest undead, decayed skin:

1. **Forehead wrinkles:** 2-3 horizontal curved lines across Rnds 8-11 using backstitch
2. **Cheek hollows:** Several short straight stitches in diagonal/curved pattern below and to sides of eyes (Rnds 16-18)
3. **Skin folds/scars:** Random short straight stitches and French knots scattered on face (3-5 locations)
   - Between eyes (vertical line)
   - On chin area
   - Near temples

**Technique tips:**
- Don't overdo texture—suggest decay with 8-12 well-placed detail stitches total
- Pull stitches at varying tension for dimensional effect
- Use tweezers to help pull needle through tight amigurumi fabric

---

### HAIR

Eddie's wild, messy hair is created with combination of textured stitches and surface additions.

**Method 1: Loop Stitch Hair (More textured, worked before assembly)**

Using Dark Brown or Black yarn and 3.5mm hook:

**Hair Cap Base:**

**Rnd 1:** 6 sc in magic ring [6]

**Rnd 2:** inc in each st around [12]

**Rnd 3:** (sc, inc) around [18]

**Rnd 4:** (2 sc, inc) around [24]

**Rnd 5:** (3 sc, inc) around [30]

**Rnd 6:** (4 sc, inc) around [36]

**Rnd 7:** (5 sc, inc) around [42]  
*(Same circumference as head at widest point)*

**Rnds 8-9:** sc in each st around [42]

**Adding Texture/Loops:**

**Rnd 10:** Work around using Loop Stitch in each st (see Special Stitches section) [42]  
*All loops should be on outside surface. Create 1-inch loops.*

**Rnd 11:** sc in each st around [42]

**Rnd 12:** Work Loop Stitch in each st around [42]

**Optional Rnd 13:** sc in each st around [42]

Fasten off, leaving 20-inch tail for sewing.

**To attach:** Position hair cap on head covering Rnds 1-10 (top half of head). Pin in place. Using tail and yarn needle, whipstitch around bottom edge to secure to head. Stitch should be invisible between stitches.

**Method 2: Surface Chain Hair (Easier, worked after assembly)**

Using Dark Brown or Black yarn and yarn needle:

1. Create individual "hair strands" by threading yarn through head surface at various points on top and back of head (Rnds 1-12)
2. Leave loops of varying lengths (1-3 inches) on surface
3. Create 25-35 loops total for messy, wild appearance
4. Optional: Cut some loops and separate plies for stringier effect
5. Optional: