purlJam

<pattern>

# ENTRELAC RAGLAN CARDIGAN

## OVERVIEW
A sophisticated top-down raglan cardigan featuring entrelac patterning on the body for stunning visual texture. This seamless design begins at the neckline with traditional raglan shaping, then transitions to beautiful woven-look entrelac squares in the body. The structured technique creates a modern, architectural piece perfect for showcasing your skills.

**Difficulty Level**: Intermediate  
**Construction**: Top-down, seamless raglan with picked-up entrelac

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## SIZES
To fit bust: **81-86 (91-97, 102-107, 112-117, 122-127) cm** / **32-34 (36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50)"**

Finished bust circumference (buttoned): **96 (106, 116, 126, 136) cm** / **37.75 (41.75, 45.75, 49.5, 53.5)"**  
*Designed with approximately 10-15cm / 4-6" positive ease*

Sample shown in size 91-97cm with 14cm positive ease.

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## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: Approximately **900 (1000, 1150, 1300, 1450) metres** of bulky weight yarn  
*Sample uses a soft wool/acrylic blend bulky yarn*

**Needles**: 
- 4mm (UK 8, US 6) circular needle, 80cm length or longer for body
- 4mm (UK 8, US 6) circular needle, 40cm length or DPNs for sleeves
- Or size needed to obtain correct tension

**Notions**:
- 8 stitch markers (4 in one colour for raglan lines, 4 different for other markings)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
- Tapestry needle
- 6-7 buttons, approximately 20mm diameter
- Sewing needle and thread for buttons

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## TENSION (GAUGE)

**Critical**: Tension must be checked in BOTH stockinette and entrelac!

**Stockinette Stitch** (for yoke and sleeves): **14 sts × 20 rows = 10cm / 4"** measured over stockinette stitch after blocking

**Entrelac** (for body): **14 sts × 18 rows = 10cm / 4"** measured over entrelac pattern after blocking  
*Note: Entrelac compresses vertically due to the picking-up technique*

**To check tension**: 
- Cast on 24 sts and work 28 rows in stockinette stitch
- For entrelac: work a sample with 21 sts creating 3 blocks of 7 sts each, complete 3 tiers

Taking time to check tension will ensure proper fit. If you have more stitches per 10cm, use larger needles. Fewer stitches = smaller needles.

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## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### Raglan Increases (M1L and M1R method)
**M1L (Make 1 Left)**: Insert left needle from front to back under strand between stitches, knit through back loop.  
**M1R (Make 1 Right)**: Insert left needle from back to front under strand between stitches, knit through front loop.

### Entrelac Basics
Entrelac is worked in tiers of rectangles. Each rectangle is worked individually by picking up stitches along the edge of previous tier and working short rows, joining to the adjacent rectangle.

**Base Triangles (Right Side)**:
Worked to create the foundation tier.
- Cast on or work across established stitches in groups
- Work increasing short rows to create right-angle triangles

**Right-Edge Triangle**:
Creates straight edge on right side of work.

**Rectangles (Main Pattern)**:
Pick up stitches along edge of previous tier, work rows while joining to adjacent rectangle.

**Left-Edge Triangle**:
Creates straight edge on left side of work.

*Detailed instructions provided in pattern body*

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## PATTERN NOTES

- This cardigan is worked from the top down, beginning at the neck edge.
- The yoke is worked flat with raglan shaping; you will be working back and forth in rows.
- Increases are worked on RS rows at each of the 4 raglan lines (8 sts increased per RS row).
- After the yoke is complete, sleeve stitches are placed on hold and body stitches are joined to work in one piece.
- The body features entrelac patterning worked in tiers. Each tier consists of rectangles that are picked up and joined as you work.
- Sleeves are worked in the round from held stitches.
- Button bands are added last by picking up stitches along the front edges.
- Read through the entire entrelac section before beginning to familiarize yourself with the technique.
- Use markers liberally - they are your friends in raglan construction!

**Abbreviations**:
- k = knit
- p = purl
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- M1L = make 1 left
- M1R = make 1 right
- k2tog = knit 2 together
- ssk = slip, slip, knit (slip 2 sts knitwise, return to left needle, knit together through back loops)
- pm = place marker
- sm = slip marker
- wyif = with yarn in front
- wyib = with yarn in back

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## INSTRUCTIONS

### YOKE

**Cast On**:
Using long-tail method and 4mm circular needle (80cm), cast on **62 (66, 70, 74, 78) sts**.

**Set-Up Row (WS)**: P **5 (6, 7, 8, 9)** [right front], pm, p **7 (7, 7, 7, 7)** [right sleeve], pm, p **38 (40, 42, 44, 46)** [back], pm, p **7 (7, 7, 7, 7)** [left sleeve], pm, p **5 (6, 7, 8, 9)** [left front].

*Verification: 5+7+38+7+5 = 62 sts ✓ (adjust for other sizes)*

The 4 markers indicate raglan lines. These stay in place throughout yoke.

**Raglan Increase Row (RS)**: K2, M1R, *knit to 1 st before marker, M1L, k1, sm, k1, M1R; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to last 2 sts, M1L, k2. **(8 sts increased)**

**Next Row (WS)**: Purl all sts, slipping markers.

**Repeat these 2 rows** until you have the following stitch counts:

| Size | Total Sts | Right Front | Sleeve | Back | Sleeve | Left Front | Rows |
|------|-----------|-------------|---------|------|---------|------------|------|
| 81-86cm | 230 | 26 | 28 | 80 | 28 | 26 | 42 |
| 91-97cm | 258 | 30 | 32 | 88 | 32 | 30 | 48 |
| 102-107cm | 286 | 34 | 36 | 96 | 36 | 34 | 54 |
| 112-117cm | 314 | 38 | 40 | 104 | 40 | 38 | 60 |
| 122-127cm | 342 | 42 | 44 | 112 | 44 | 42 | 66 |

*Math check for size 1: 62 + (8 sts × 21 increase rows) = 62 + 168 = 230 sts ✓*

**Final Yoke Row (WS)**: Purl all sts.

Your yoke should measure approximately **20 (22, 24, 26, 28) cm** from cast-on edge to needles, measured at the centre back.

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### SEPARATE SLEEVES AND JOIN BODY

**Next Row (RS)**: 
- K across **26 (30, 34, 38, 42)** right front sts, remove marker
- Place next **28 (32, 36, 40, 44)** sleeve sts on holder or waste yarn, remove marker
- Using backward loop method, cast on **8 (8, 10, 10, 12)** underarm sts, pm for side seam
- K across **80 (88, 96, 104, 112)** back sts, remove marker
- Place next **28 (32, 36, 40, 44)** sleeve sts on holder, remove marker
- Cast on **8 (8, 10, 10, 12)** underarm sts, pm for side seam
- K across **26 (30, 34, 38, 42)** left front sts

You now have **148 (164, 184, 200, 220) body sts** on needle.

*Verification for size 1: 26 + 8 + 80 + 8 + 26 = 148 sts ✓*

**Next Row (WS)**: Purl all sts.

**Transition Rows**: Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch (knit RS, purl WS).

Your body is now ready for entrelac patterning.

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### ENTRELAC BODY

The body is worked in entrelac, creating a stunning woven texture. Each size uses **7 stitch blocks**. 

**Block Count**: 
- Size 81-86cm: 21 blocks (7 × 3 sections: 3 right front + 11 back + 1 underarm + 3 left front + 1 underarm = 21)
- Adjust distribution for your size to total block count

*Note: For simplicity, work entrelac across entire body width. Minor stitch count adjustments may be needed.*

**Adjust stitch count if necessary**:
If your stitch count is not perfectly divisible by 7, work adjustment row:

**Adjustment Row (RS)**: Evenly increase or decrease 1-2 sts across body to achieve: **147 (161, 182, 196, 217) sts** = **21 (23, 26, 28, 31) blocks of 7 sts each**.

#### TIER 1: BASE TRIANGLES

These triangles form the foundation of your entrelac pattern. You will work across the row creating one triangle at a time.

**First Base Triangle**:
- Row 1 (RS): K2, turn.
- Row 2 (WS): P2, turn.
- Row 3: K3, turn.
- Row 4: P3, turn.
- Row 5: K4, turn.
- Row 6: P4, turn.
- Row 7: K5, turn.
- Row 8: P5, turn.
- Row 9: K6, turn.
- Row 10: P6, turn.
- Row 11: K7, do NOT turn.

**Repeat** First Base Triangle instructions across all body stitches until you have completed **21 (23, 26, 28, 31) base triangles**. Your last repeat will end with k7, do not turn, and all body stitches will have been worked.

You should now have 21 (23, 26, 28, 31) base triangles with their right sides facing you.

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#### TIER 2: RIGHT-EDGE TRIANGLE, RECTANGLES, LEFT-EDGE TRIANGLE

**RIGHT-EDGE TRIANGLE** (creates straight right edge):

With WS facing:
- Row 1 (WS): P2, turn.
- Row 2 (RS): K2, turn.
- Row 3: P3, turn.
- Row 4: K3, turn.
- Row 5: P4, turn.
- Row 6: K4, turn.
- Row 7: P5, turn.
- Row 8: K5, turn.
- Row 9: P6, turn.
- Row 10: K6, turn.
- Row 11: P7, do NOT turn.

**RECTANGLE** (worked 19 (21, 24, 26, 29) times):

With WS still facing, you will now pick up stitches along the edge