purlJam

# Flowy A-Line Mini Skirt
*A beginner-friendly machine-knit mini skirt with gentle A-line flare, folded elastic waistband, and soft worsted drape.*

---

## Description
Two simple trapezoidal panels seamed at the sides create a flowy mini skirt that skims the hip and flares gently toward the hem. The waistband is a folded casing threaded with 1" elastic — no complex ribbing required. Perfect as a first garment project.

---

## Materials
- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYC #4), smooth plied wool or wool/acrylic blend with good drape. *Avoid stiff cotton.*
- **Yardage:** Approx. 450 yds (410 m) for size M; 400 / 450 / 500 / 550 yds for S / M / L / XL
- **Machine:** Mid-gauge (6.5mm / 7mm) preferred. Standard gauge (4.5mm) works at maximum tension — **swatch first** to confirm fabric is soft and flowy, not dense.
- **Notions:**
  - 1" (2.5 cm) wide soft knit elastic — length = waist measurement + 1"
  - Waste yarn + ravel cord
  - Claw weights (2–4)
  - Cast-on comb
  - Single-eye transfer tool
  - Yarn needle for seaming
  - Safety pin (for threading elastic)

---

## Sizes
| Size | Waist | Hip | Length |
|------|-------|-----|--------|
| S | 28" (71 cm) | 34" (86 cm) | 14" (35.5 cm) |
| **M** | **32" (81 cm)** | **38" (96.5 cm)** | **15" (38 cm)** |
| L | 36" (91 cm) | 42" (107 cm) | 16" (40.5 cm) |
| XL | 40" (101.5 cm) | 46" (117 cm) | 17" (43 cm) |

**Pattern written for size M with other sizes in brackets [S / M / L / XL].**

---

## Tension / Gauge
- **Main tension:** T10 (standard gauge) or T8 (mid-gauge)
- **Gauge (after washing/blocking):** 18 sts × 26 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette
- **Swatch:** Cast on 40 sts, knit 60 rows at chosen tension. Wash, dry flat, measure center 4" × 4" area. Adjust tension if needed.

---

## Abbreviations
- **RC** – Row counter
- **COL / COR** – Carriage on Left / Right
- **MB** – Main bed
- **MT** – Main tension
- **NWP / NOOB** – Needle in working position / out of work
- **EON** – Every other needle
- **T** – Tension dial setting
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **dec** – decrease
- **k** – knit
- **WY** – Waste yarn

---

## Pattern Notes
- Make **2 identical panels** (front and back).
- Skirt is knit **bottom-up** (hem to waist).
- All shaping is done at both edges. Use a single-eye transfer tool to move the 2nd-from-edge stitch inward one needle; leave empty needle out of work or move 3 edge stitches inward (full-fashioned dec) — beginner method described below.
- Keep 2–4 claw weights near the edges, moving them up as work progresses.
- Carriage always set to plain knit (no slip/tuck/weave levers).

---

## Instructions

### PANEL (make 2)

#### Setup
1. Bring **90 [84 / 99 / 108] needles** into working position, centered around 0 on MB.
   - *Math check M: 38" hip + 2" ease = 20" panel width × 18 sts/4" = 90 sts ✓*
2. Thread WY in feeder. Set **T8**. COR.
3. Cast on with WY using open cast-on method: hang cast-on comb after 2 rows, knit 6–8 rows WY ending **COL**.
4. Insert ravel cord across all needles, knit 1 row.
5. Rehang weights. Thread main yarn. Set **MT (T10 / T8 mid-gauge)**. **Reset RC to 000.**

#### Hem Facing (folded hem)
6. Knit **13 rows** in stockinette at MT.
7. **RC 013** — COL. This is the hem fold line. Knit 1 row at **T10+ (loosest)** to create a turning ridge. (Optional: transfer every 3rd stitch to its neighbor for a picot edge if desired — skip for beginner.)
8. Return to MT. Knit to **RC 015**.

#### Body with A-Line Shaping
Decrease 1 st at **each** edge every 11 rows, **7 times total** (14 sts decreased).

**Decrease method (beginner, fully-fashioned-style):**
- At decrease row, use transfer tool to move the **edge stitch** onto the **2nd needle in**. Push emptied end needle back to NOOB. This narrows the panel by 1 needle per edge.

| Dec # | RC | Carriage | Sts after dec |
|-------|----|----|----|
| 1 | 025 | COL or COR | 88 |
| 2 | 036 | — | 86 |
| 3 | 047 | — | 84 |
| 4 | 058 | — | 82 |
| 5 | 069 | — | 80 |
| 6 | 080 | — | 78 |
| 7 | 091 | — | **76** |

*Tip: Do decrease on the row **after** the carriage returns to that side. Make both edges on the same row — transfer left edge, knit 1 row, transfer right edge next pass, OR transfer both before the knit pass.*

9. Continue in plain stockinette at MT to **RC 097** ending **COR**.
   - *Math check: 76 sts × 4"/18 = 16.9" waist panel × 2 = 33.8" relaxed waist; elastic will gather to 32". ✓*

#### Waistband Casing
10. Knit 1 row at **T10+ (loosest)** to form fold line. **RC 098**.
11. Return to MT. Knit **10 rows** plain. **RC 108**, COR.
12. Knit 3 rows WY. Remove from machine.

---

## Finishing

### Blocking
1. Steam-block both panels to measurements: 20" (hem) tapering to 16.9" (waist), 15" long (not counting hem fold and casing). Let dry fully.

### Seaming
2. Place panels right sides together. Using mattress stitch with yarn needle, seam both side edges from hem to top of casing.
3. **Hem fold:** Fold hem facing to wrong side along turning ridge (RC 013–014). Pin. Using yarn needle, whip-stitch live edge loosely to the inside — pick up through the purl bumps, not through to the public side. Remove WY.
4. **Waistband casing:** Fold top casing to wrong side along fold ridge (RC 097–098). Pin. Whip-stitch live edge down, **leaving a 2" opening** near a side seam for elastic insertion. Remove WY at the end.

### Elastic
5. Cut elastic = waist measurement + 1" [29 / 33 / 37 / 41"].
6. Attach safety pin to one end of elastic; thread through casing opening, around full circumference, and back out.
7. Overlap ends by 1", stitch securely with yarn needle (box-X stitch).
8. Feed elastic into casing; sew opening closed.

### Final
9. Gentle steam along seams and waistband. Try on and admire your flowy mini!

---

## Quick Reference Card
- Cast on: **90 [84/99/108] sts**, 2 panels
- MT: **T10 std / T8 mid-gauge**
- Hem fold: RC 014
- Decreases: RC 025, 036, 047, 058, 069, 080, 091 — 1 st each edge
- Waist fold: RC 098
- Bind off (WY): RC 108
- Final waist sts per panel: **76**

Happy knitting! 🧶