purlJam

# Diagonal Rib A-Line Skirt
*A flattering top-down A-line skirt worked seamlessly in the round, featuring a 2×2 rib pattern that travels on the diagonal for visual interest and elegant drape.*

**Skill Level:** Intermediate

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## Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

### Finished Measurements

| Size | Waist | Hip | Mini Length | Knee Length | Midi Length | Maxi Length |
|------|-------|-----|-------------|-------------|-------------|-------------|
| XS  | 24" (61 cm)  | 36" (91 cm)  | 15" | 22" | 28" | 36" |
| S   | 27" (68.5 cm)| 40" (101.5 cm)| 15"| 22" | 28" | 36" |
| M   | 31" (79 cm)  | 44" (112 cm) | 15" | 22" | 28" | 36" |
| L   | 35" (89 cm)  | 48" (122 cm) | 15" | 22" | 28" | 36" |
| XL  | 39" (99 cm)  | 52" (132 cm) | 15" | 22" | 28" | 36" |
| 2XL | 43" (109 cm) | 56" (142 cm) | 15" | 22" | 28" | 36" |
| 3XL | 47" (119.5 cm)| 60" (152.5 cm)| 15"| 22" | 28" | 36" |
| 4XL | 51" (129.5 cm)| 64" (162.5 cm)| 15"| 22" | 28" | 36" |
| 5XL | 55" (139.5 cm)| 68" (172.5 cm)| 15"| 22" | 28" | 36" |

**Recommended Ease:**
- Waist: 0 to –2" negative ease (ribbing stretches comfortably)
- Hip: +2 to +4" positive ease for an A-line drape

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** DK weight (Light/3), smooth plied wool or wool blend recommended for stitch definition.
  - Approx. yardage: 800 (900, 1050, 1200, 1350, 1500, 1650, 1800, 2000) yards for knee length. Add ~150 yds per additional 6" length; subtract ~250 yds for mini.
- **Needles:**
  - US 6 / 4 mm circular needle, 24" or 32" cable (main body)
  - US 5 / 3.75 mm circular needle, 24" cable (waistband)
  - DPNs or magic-loop set-up in the same sizes if needed
- **Notions:**
  - 8 stitch markers (1 unique color for beginning of round; 7 standard for increase points)
  - Tapestry needle
  - 1" (2.5 cm) wide non-roll elastic, length = waist measurement (optional, for added security)

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## Gauge

- **22 sts × 30 rounds = 4" (10 cm)** in 2×2 rib, slightly relaxed (not stretched flat), on US 6 / 4 mm needles, after blocking.
- Always take time to check gauge.

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## Abbreviations (US)

- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **rnd(s)** – round(s)
- **pm** – place marker
- **sm** – slip marker
- **M1L** – make 1 left (lifted increase, leans left)
- **M1R** – make 1 right (lifted increase, leans right)
- **BOR** – beginning of round
- **rep** – repeat

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## Special Techniques

### Diagonal 2×2 Rib (worked in the round)
The diagonal effect is created by shifting the rib pattern one stitch to the right every 4th round. The rib columns "travel" around the skirt as you knit downward.

**Base rib:** *k2, p2; rep from * around.

**Shift mechanism:** Every 4th round, the BOR is effectively shifted by working the round starting one stitch later in the rib repeat. Practically, this is done by changing which stitches are knit/purled at the BOR.

**Round-by-round formula (Rounds 1–4 cycle):**
- **Rnd 1:** *k2, p2; rep from *
- **Rnd 2:** *k2, p2; rep from *
- **Rnd 3:** *k2, p2; rep from *
- **Rnd 4:** *k2, p2; rep from *
- **Rnd 5 (shift):** k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1
- **Rnd 6:** Continue rib as set (k where you knit, p where you purl, in the column established by Rnd 5)
- **Rnd 7:** Continue as set
- **Rnd 8:** Continue as set
- **Rnd 9 (shift):** Shift again by 1 st in the same direction — *p2, k2; rep from *
- **Rnd 13 (shift):** p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1
- **Rnd 17 (shift):** *k2, p2; rep from * — back to start of cycle

The full diagonal cycle = **16 rounds** (4 shifts of 1 st each = 4 sts shifted, returning to original alignment after one full repeat of the 4-st rib).

> **Tip:** Read your knitting. Once shifted, simply k the V-columns and p the bumps until the next shift round. Place a removable marker on Round 1's first knit column to track the diagonal travel.

### Stretchy Bind-Off (Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy)
Recommended for hem and waistband to maintain elasticity in rib.
- For knit st: yarn over backwards, k1, pass yarn over over the knit st.
- For purl st: yarn over forwards, p1, pass yarn over over the purl st.
- Continue, passing only the yarn-over over each new stitch (not the previous bound-off st), then at the end pass the second-to-last st over the last.

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## Pattern

### Cast-On Counts (multiple of 8, fits 2×2 rib & 8 increase points)

| Size | Cast On |
|------|---------|
| XS  | 136 sts |
| S   | 152 sts |
| M   | 176 sts |
| L   | 200 sts |
| XL  | 216 sts |
| 2XL | 240 sts |
| 3XL | 264 sts |
| 4XL | 288 sts |
| 5XL | 304 sts |

> *Math check: All counts divisible by 4 (rib) and 8 (markers). Cast-on ÷ 22 × 4 ≈ waist measurement when rib is gently relaxed. E.g., M: 176 ÷ 22 × 4 = 32" (lightly stretches/relaxes to fit 31" waist with –1" ease ✓).*

### Waistband

With smaller needle (US 5 / 3.75 mm) and using a **long-tail cast-on**, cast on the number of stitches for your size.

Place BOR marker and join in the round, being careful not to twist.

**Rnds 1–14:** *k2, p2; rep from * around. (Waistband measures approximately 1.75–2".)

> *For a folded elastic casing instead:* Work 18 rnds in stockinette, 1 purl turning rnd, 18 rnds stockinette. Fold to inside and stitch down loosely after main skirt is finished, leaving a 1.5" gap to thread elastic.

Switch to larger needle (US 6 / 4 mm).

### Set-Up Round (Place Increase Markers)

Cast-on ÷ 8 = stitches between markers:
- XS: 17, S: 19, M: 22, L: 25, XL: 27, 2XL: 30, 3XL: 33, 4XL: 36, 5XL: 38

**Set-up Rnd:** *k2, p2 to next marker position, pm; rep from * around (placing 7 new markers; the BOR marker is the 8th). Maintain 2×2 rib.

> *Math check: 8 sections × stitches per section = full cast-on. E.g., L: 8 × 25 = 200 ✓.*

### Skirt Body — Diagonal Rib with A-Line Shaping

Work the **Diagonal 2×2 Rib** as described in Special Techniques while simultaneously working **Increase Rounds** at the intervals below.

#### Increase Round
**Inc Rnd:** *Work in pattern to 1 st before marker, M1R, k1 (or p1, matching the column), sm, k1 (or p1, matching), M1L; rep from * around — **8 sts increased**.

> When working M1 increases, look at the column you are reinforcing: if the next stitch is part of a knit column, your new stitch is knit on subsequent rounds; if it falls in a purl column, purl it. Keep the new stitch consistent with the rib column it joins.

#### Increase Schedule

Total increases needed = (Hip sts – Waist sts):

| Size | Waist sts | Hip sts | Total Incs | Inc Rnds Needed (÷8) |
|------|-----------|---------|------------|----------------------|
| XS  | 136 | 200 | 64  | 8  |
| S   | 152 | 224 | 72  | 9  |
| M   | 176 | 240 | 64  | 8  |
| L   | 200 | 264 | 64  | 8  |
| XL  | 216 | 288 | 72  | 9  |
| 2XL | 240 | 312 | 72  | 9  |
| 3XL | 264 | 336 | 72  | 9  |
| 4XL | 288 | 352 | 64  | 8  |
| 5XL | 304 | 376 | 72  | 9  |

> *Math check (M): 8 inc rnds × 8 sts = 64 sts; 176 + 64 = 240 sts; 240 ÷ 22 × 4 = 43.6". Relaxed rib drapes to ~44" hip ✓.*

**Work Increase Rnd every 8th round** until the increase schedule is complete. (Always work increases on a non-shift round to keep the rib travel clean — i.e., on rounds 8, 16, 24… of the diagonal cycle.)

After the last increase round, continue working the **Diagonal 2×2 Rib** with no further shaping until skirt measures the desired total length minus 1" for hem (see Length Options below), measured from the bottom of the waistband.

### Length Options (total finished length from waistband)

- **Mini:** 15" (38 cm)
- **Knee:** 22" (56 cm)
- **Midi:** 28" (71 cm)
- **Maxi:** 36" (91 cm)

> Spread your increase rounds across roughly the **first 8" (20 cm)** of the skirt body for a smooth A-line transition. For example, if you have 8 increase rounds, work them every 8 rounds (≈ every 1") for the first 8" of the body, then continue straight in the diagonal rib pattern.

### Hem

When skirt is 1" shorter than your desired total length:

**Rnds 1–7:** Work even in 2×2 rib (no further shifting — let the rib columns settle vertical for a clean hem). To do this, simply continue the rib pattern as it was set on the last shift round, with no additional shift.

**Bind off** loosely using **Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off**.

> *Optional alternative hems:*
> - **Picot hem:** *k2tog, yo; rep from * one round, then 6 rnds stockinette; fold and graft.
> - **Garter hem:** Knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd; bind off.

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## Finishing

1. **Weave in ends** along purl columns on the wrong side using a tapestry needle.
2. **Wet block:** Soak in cool water with wool wash for 20 minutes. Gently squeeze out water (do not wring). Lay flat on blocking mats, shaping to listed measurements. Allow to dry completely.
3. **Optional elastic insertion (if folded waistband chosen):**
   - Cut elastic to your waist measurement minus 1".
   - Thread through casing using a safety pin.
   - Overlap ends by 1" and stitch securely.
   - Sew the casing gap closed.

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## Pattern Notes & Tips

- **Tracking the diagonal:** Use a removable stitch marker on the first knit column of Round 1. After 16 rounds, that marker should sit 4 stitches to the left (or right, depending on shift direction) — confirming your diagonal is on track.
- **Increase placement:** The 8 evenly spaced increases create subtle vertical "godets" that disappear into the rib for an elegant, uninterrupted bias look.
- **Customizing flare:** For a more dramatic A-line, add 2 additional increase rounds (16 extra sts at hem). For a slimmer pencil/A hybrid, work only half the increases.
- **Maintaining gauge in rib:** Rib gauge is highly elastic. Block your swatch and measure relaxed (not stretched) to match the listed gauge.

Enjoy your beautifully draped diagonal rib skirt! 🧶