purlJam

# Diagonal 2x2 Ribbed A-Line Skirt

A beginner-friendly skirt knit on the bias from corner to corner. Starting with just 4 stitches at the upper-right (waist corner), you'll work three shaping sections to create a flattering A-line silhouette in stretchy 2x2 rib. Two panels are seamed at the center front and center back for a clean, professional finish.

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## Skill Level
**Beginner** (comfortable with knit, purl, increases, and decreases)

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## Sizes

| Size | Waist (relaxed) | Hip | Finished Hem Circumference |
|------|----------------|-----|---------------------------|
| XS   | 24" (61 cm)    | 34" (86 cm)  | 44" (112 cm) |
| S    | 27" (68.5 cm)  | 37" (94 cm)  | 48" (122 cm) |
| **M**| **30" (76 cm)**| **40" (101.5 cm)** | **52" (132 cm)** |
| L    | 33" (84 cm)    | 43" (109 cm) | 56" (142 cm) |
| XL   | 37" (94 cm)    | 47" (119 cm) | 62" (157.5 cm) |
| 2XL  | 41" (104 cm)   | 51" (129.5 cm) | 68" (173 cm) |
| 3XL  | 45" (114 cm)   | 55" (140 cm) | 74" (188 cm) |
| 4XL  | 49" (124 cm)   | 59" (150 cm) | 80" (203 cm) |
| 5XL  | 53" (135 cm)   | 63" (160 cm) | 86" (218.5 cm) |

**Ease:** 2x2 rib has significant negative ease (4–6"). The waistband measurement above is the relaxed (unstretched) circumference; the rib will stretch comfortably to fit the body.

**Sample shown:** Size M, knee-length (20" / 51 cm side length).

**Length options** (skirt-side measurement of Section 1):
- Mini: 14" (35.5 cm)
- Knee: 20" (51 cm) ← sample
- Midi: 26" (66 cm)
- Maxi: 34" (86.5 cm)

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## Materials

- **Yarn:** Worsted weight (CYC #4), approx. 900–1,500 yards (825–1,370 m) depending on size and length. Sample uses ~1,100 yds for size M, knee length.
- **Needles:** US 7 (4.5 mm) straight or 24"/32" circular (worked flat)
- **Notions:** Tapestry needle, stitch markers (optional), 1" wide non-roll elastic equal to your waist measurement minus 1", safety pin
- **Gauge:** 20 sts × 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in 2x2 rib, lightly blocked and relaxed. **Take time to check gauge.**

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## Abbreviations (US)

- **k** – knit
- **p** – purl
- **st(s)** – stitch(es)
- **kfb** – knit into front and back of stitch (1 st increased)
- **k2tog** – knit 2 together (1 st decreased)
- **ssk** – slip, slip, knit (1 st decreased)
- **RS / WS** – right side / wrong side
- **sl1** – slip 1 stitch purlwise
- **m1** – make 1 (lifted increase)

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## Stitch Pattern: 2x2 Rib (in pattern)

On every row, knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as they appear. New stitches created by increases are absorbed into the rib pattern (see Working in Pattern note below).

**Working in Pattern (important):** As stitches are added at each edge, integrate them into the *k2, p2* sequence. After each increase row, look at your fabric: any new stitch is worked to continue the established rib column. If the count places it mid-column, work whatever knit/purl is needed to keep the rib aligned.

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## Construction Overview

This skirt is knit **diagonally** in two identical panels. Each panel begins with 4 stitches at the upper-right corner (top of one side seam) and grows diagonally toward the lower-left corner (hem at the opposite side seam). The two panels are seamed at the **center front** and **center back**, with a casing folded at the top for elastic.

Each panel has three shaping sections:

- **Section 1** – Establishes the skirt-side edge (vertical side seam) and the waist edge simultaneously.
- **Section 2** – Continues the waistband while the hem begins to angle.
- **Section 3** – Decreases both edges down to the lower-left point.

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## PANEL (make 2)

### Cast On
With US 7 (4.5 mm) needles, cast on **4 sts**.

**Setup Row (WS):** P2, k2.

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### SECTION 1 — Establish Side Seam & Waist

In this section the **waist edge** (beginning of RS rows) gains 1 st per RS row, and the **skirt-side edge** (end of RS rows) gains 2 sts per RS row. The skirt-side edge becomes your finished side seam.

**Row 1 (RS):** Kfb (waist edge inc, +1), work in 2x2 rib pattern to last st, kfb, m1 (skirt-side inc, +2). *(3 sts increased)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Work in established 2x2 rib pattern across.

Repeat Rows 1–2.

**Continue** until the **skirt-side edge** (the end-of-RS-row selvedge — measure along the angled edge formed by the *end* of each RS row) measures your chosen length:

| Length | Skirt-side edge measurement |
|--------|----------------------------|
| Mini   | 14" (35.5 cm) |
| Knee   | 20" (51 cm)   |
| Midi   | 26" (66 cm)   |
| Maxi   | 34" (86.5 cm) |

**End after a WS row.**

**Math check (size M, knee length):** At 28 rows = 4", a 20" side edge ≈ 140 rows. With 3 sts added per RS row over 70 RS rows → ~210 sts at end of Section 1. ✓

**Note the stitch count at the end of Section 1: ____ sts.**

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### SECTION 2 — Build the Waistband

Now the skirt-side edge is established at full length. We continue increasing 1 st at the waist edge, but begin **decreasing 1 st at the hem edge** so the bottom of the skirt angles outward correctly relative to the side seam.

**Row 1 (RS):** Kfb (waist edge inc, +1), work in 2x2 rib pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog (hem edge dec, –1). *(stitch count unchanged)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Work in established 2x2 rib pattern across.

Repeat Rows 1–2.

**Continue** until the **waist edge** (the beginning-of-RS-row selvedge — measure along the angled edge formed by the *beginning* of each RS row, from cast-on corner to current edge) measures **half your size's relaxed waist measurement**:

| Size | Waist edge measurement (per panel) |
|------|-----------------------------------|
| XS   | 12" (30.5 cm) |
| S    | 13.5" (34 cm) |
| M    | 15" (38 cm)   |
| L    | 16.5" (42 cm) |
| XL   | 18.5" (47 cm) |
| 2XL  | 20.5" (52 cm) |
| 3XL  | 22.5" (57 cm) |
| 4XL  | 24.5" (62 cm) |
| 5XL  | 26.5" (67 cm) |

**End after a WS row.**

**Math check (size M):** Half of 30" waist = 15". Stitch count remains stable through this section since +1/–1 cancel out. ✓

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### SECTION 3 — Decrease to the Lower-Left Corner

Both the skirt-side edge and the hem edge now decrease, narrowing the panel down to a 3-stitch point. The waist-side decreases happen **every other RS row** (every 4th row total) to maintain the proper hem angle.

**Row 1 (RS):** Ssk (waist/side edge dec, –1), work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog (hem edge dec, –1). *(2 sts decreased)*
**Row 2 (WS):** Work in pattern.
**Row 3 (RS):** K1, work in pattern to last 2 sts, k2tog (hem edge dec only, –1). *(1 st decreased)*
**Row 4 (WS):** Work in pattern.

Repeat Rows 1–4.

**Continue** until **3 sts remain** on the needle, ending after a WS row.

**Bind off** all 3 sts.

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## Finishing

### Seaming

1. **Block both panels** to the measurements in the size table. Pin the waist edge straight, the side edge straight, and ease the hem into a smooth diagonal. Allow to dry completely.
2. With RS together, use mattress stitch to seam **center front** (joining one straight cast-on edge of Panel A to the bind-off-tail edge of Panel B) and **center back** (joining the remaining matching edges). The two panels meet so that each panel's waist-edge selvedge forms half the waistband, and each panel's hem-edge selvedge forms half the hem.

   *Tip:* Lay both panels flat with the diagonal "grain" mirrored. The cast-on corner of one panel meets the bind-off corner of the other at each side seam.

### Waistband Casing

3. **Fold** approx. 1.25" (3 cm) of the waist edge to the WS of the skirt to form a casing. Pin in place.
4. With matching yarn and tapestry needle, **whipstitch** or slip-stitch the folded edge down to the WS of the fabric, leaving a 2" (5 cm) opening at the center back.
5. Cut elastic to your waist measurement minus 1" (2.5 cm). Attach a safety pin to one end and **thread** through the casing.
6. Overlap the elastic ends by 1" and **stitch securely** together (a zigzag by hand or machine works well).
7. Sew the casing opening closed.

### Final Steps

8. **Weave in all ends** on the WS, following the line of the rib columns for invisibility.
9. Give the skirt a final **light steam-block** if needed to settle the seams and rib.

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## Notes & Tips for Beginners

- **Selvedge tip:** For neater edges that are easier to seam, slip the first stitch of every row purlwise with yarn in front, then continue the row as written. (This consumes the "kfb" instruction's stitch — instead, work the kfb on stitch 2.)
- **Counting rows:** Place a removable marker every 20 rows along the side edge to track length without recounting.
- **Pattern integration:** If after an increase your next stitch breaks the *k2, p2* rhythm, that's fine — treat the new edge stitch as a "growing" rib column that will continue in pattern on subsequent rows.
- **Yardage adjustment:** Longer lengths and larger sizes require more yarn; buy an extra skein for sizes XL+ or maxi length.

Enjoy your beautifully bias-draped, stretchy A-line skirt!