Golden Hour Halter Tank

A modern open-mesh crochet tank with crisscross "X" halter straps and a ribbed hem

A breezy, summer-ready halter top worked in cool 100% cotton. The lightweight open-mesh body keeps you comfortable in the heat, while the wide crisscross shoulder straps and ribbed hem give it a polished, contemporary finish. Worked as two simple flat panels, seamed at the sides, then dressed up with tie-adjustable straps.

Skill Level

Easy / Advanced Beginner — knowledge of chain, single crochet, and double crochet required.

Finished Measurements (Bust circumference, relaxed)

*Body length measured from top edge to bottom of ribbed hem. Includes ~2–3" of positive ease at bust for a fitted-yet-relaxed drape. Mesh is stretchy; sizing runs forgiving.

Materials

• Yarn: 100% cotton, DK / light worsted weight, in mustard yellow (#D89A2B).
  • Approximate yardage:
    • XS: 500 yds | S: 560 yds | M: 620 yds | L: 690 yds | XL: 760 yds | XXL: 830 yds
• Hook: US H-8 (5.0 mm) for body & straps; US G-6 (4.0 mm) for ribbed hem/edging.
• Notions: Tapestry needle, 4 stitch markers, scissors, measuring tape.

Gauge

• Mesh pattern: 16 sts (8 mesh units) and 9 rows = 4" (10 cm) with US H-8 hook.
  • 1 mesh unit = 1 dc + 1 ch-1 = 0.5" wide.
• Ribbing (sc BLO): 15 sts and 16 rows = 4" with US G-6 hook.

Gauge is essential for fit. Make a 5" × 5" swatch in mesh pattern and block before starting.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• beg – beginning
• BLO – back loop only
• ch – chain
• ch-sp – chain space
• dc – double crochet
• rep – repeat
• RS / WS – right side / wrong side
• sc – single crochet
• sl st – slip stitch
• sp – space
• st(s) – stitch(es)

Pattern Notes

• The top is made of two identical flat panels (front and back) in mesh, seamed at the sides.
• The top edges are worked straight (no armhole shaping) to create a clean high halter/underarm line; shaping for the neckline is achieved entirely by the crisscross straps.
• Turning ch-3 counts as the first dc throughout the mesh section.
• Turning ch-1 does NOT count as a stitch in the ribbing.
• Ribbing is worked sideways in sc BLO to create vertical ribs, then attached along the bottom hem.
• Stitch counts are given at the end of each row in parentheses.

Special Stitch: Mesh Pattern (multiple of 2 sts + 2)

Row: Ch 3 (counts as dc), skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st; rep to last st, dc in last st, turn. On following rows, work dc into the dc of previous row and ch-1 over the ch-1 sp.

Foundation Chain by Size

Foundation chain = (mesh units × 2) + 2.

Math check (M): 36 units × 0.5"/unit = 18" flat → ×2 panels = 36" bust ✓. Foundation 74 ch → Row 1 uses 72 sts of mesh + turning = 36 units ✓.

BODY (make 2 panels — Front and Back, identical)

Using US H-8 (5.0 mm) hook, ch per your size (see table above).

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped 3 ch count as first dc), ch 1, skip 1 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * across to end. Turn.

• Stitch count (M): 36 dc + 35 ch-1 sps = 36 mesh units ✓

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), skip first dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip ch-1 sp — placing the dc in the dc below; work the sequence as: dc in next dc, ch 1; rep across, ending dc in top of turning ch. Turn.

• Simplified working: Ch 3, dc in next dc, ch 1; rep across placing dc in each dc and ch 1 over each ch-sp, dc in top of turning ch.
• Stitch count (M): 36 mesh units ✓

Rows 3 to end: Rep Row 2 until panel measures the Body Length for your size (see Finished Measurements), ending after a RS row.

Math check (M): 9 rows = 4" → 34 rows ≈ 15.1" ≈ 15" ✓.

Fasten off. Make the second panel the same way.

SIDE SEAMS & TOP EDGE PREP

1. Block both panels to the finished flat width and length. Blocking opens the mesh and evens the gauge.
2. With RS together, whipstitch or sl st the side seams, leaving the top 5" open on each side unseamed to form the armholes.
   • Seam from the bottom edge upward, stopping 5" below the top edge.

Armhole check: Top 5" open on each side gives roomy armholes suitable for a halter silhouette.

RIBBED HEM

Worked sideways in sc BLO with US G-6 (4.0 mm) hook, then joined to the lower edge of the seamed tube.

Set-up: Ch 10. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (9 sc) Row 2: Ch 1 (does not count), sc BLO in each st across. Turn. (9 sc) Rows 3 onward: Rep Row 2 until the ribbing strip, gently stretched, matches the full bust circumference for your size.

Math check (M): 16 rows = 4" → 135 rows ≈ 33.75" relaxed, stretches to fit 36" bust ✓.

Join the two short ends of the ribbing with a sl st seam to form a loop. With RS facing and tapestry needle, sew one long edge of the ribbing loop evenly to the bottom edge of the body, matching the side seams. Fasten off and weave in ends.

CRISSCROSS "X" STRAPS (make 2)

Each strap is a long ribbed band worked in sc BLO with US G-6 (4.0 mm) hook, giving a firm, wide, non-stretchy strap that holds its shape in the X.

Strap width: ~1.75" (7 sts). Strap length target (adjustable):

Set-up: Ch 8. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (7 sc) Row 2 onward: Ch 1, sc BLO in each st across. Turn. (7 sc) Rep Row 2 until strap reaches your size's length. Fasten off, leaving a 12" tail for sewing.

Math check (M): 16 rows/4" → 28" needs ~112 rows; 7 sts ≈ 1.87" wide ✓ (matches wide-strap look).

ASSEMBLY — Creating the "X"

Lay the top flat, front panel facing up.

1. Mark strap points. On the front top edge, place markers 3" in from each side seam (left-front point A, right-front point B). On the back top edge, place markers 3" in from each side seam (left-back point C, right-back point D).

2. Attach the straps to the front bust corners. Sew one end of Strap 1 securely to point A (left front). Sew one end of Strap 2 to point B (right front).

3. Cross the straps. Bring Strap 1 (from left front, point A) diagonally up and across the chest to the right shoulder, then down the back. Bring Strap 2 (from right front, point B) diagonally up to the left shoulder, then down the back. The straps cross to form a bold "X" across the upper chest, creating the high halter neckline.

4. Attach at the back. Sew the free end of Strap 1 to back point D (right back), and the free end of Strap 2 to back point C (left back).

   • Tip for adjustable fit: Instead of sewing the back ends, you may leave them free and tie them in a bow, or add a button/loop closure at the back for on-the-fly length adjustment.

5. Secure the crossover. Where the two straps overlap at center chest, tack them together with a few discreet stitches to keep the "X" crisp and prevent shifting.

FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle.
2. Give the completed top a final gentle block to set the mesh, hem, and straps.
3. Optional edging: With US G-6 hook, work 1 round of sc evenly around each armhole for a clean, reinforced finish.

SIZE ADJUSTMENTS (XS–XXL)

• Width: Every mesh unit = 0.5". To adjust bust, add/remove mesh units by changing the foundation chain in multiples of 2 (each 2 ch = 1 unit = 0.5" per panel = 1" total bust).
• Length: Each mesh row = ~0.44". Add or remove rows to lengthen/shorten the body — great for a cropped (subtract 4–6 rows) or longline (add 6–8 rows) look.
• Strap length: Measure over your own shoulder from front bust to mid-back, add 2" for seam allowance, and work the strap to that length. When in doubt, make straps longer — excess can be tucked or trimmed.
• Strap width: For a narrower strap, ch fewer (multiples adjust by 1 st ≈ 0.27"); for a wider "power X," ch more.
• Hem tightness: For a snugger hem, work fewer ribbing rows (stretch to fit). For a looser hem, add rows.

Designer's Tips

• Cotton has little elasticity — the sideways sc-BLO ribbing supplies the stretch and structure this design needs, so don't substitute the hem/straps with mesh.
• Block generously: mesh cotton "opens up" and grows slightly, so block your gauge swatch the same way you'll block the finished top.
• For extra bust support, run a length of thin cotton cord or elastic through the top row of dc sts along the front before attaching straps.

Enjoy your Golden Hour Halter Tank! ☀️