Gothic Rose Cardigan

An advanced V-neck cardigan in DK yarn with set-in sleeves and a long central Gothic Flower Cable on the back. Rope-cable pillars frame a pointed mandorla; a diamond of nine bobbles blooms at the widest point like a cathedral rose. Fronts are kept in stocking stitch so the back panel reads as a single, dramatic motif.

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

To fit bust: 81 (91, 101, 111, 122, 132) cm / 32 (36, 40, 43¾, 48, 52) in

Instructions are written for XS with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Choose the size by bust measurement and check the finished bust (buttoned) against the ease you prefer (about 7–11 cm positive ease).

Finished measurements (after blocking, buttoned)

Materials

Yarn: DK (double knitting); a smooth wool or wool-blend with crisp stitch definition (avoid halo yarns).
Metreage: 1300 (1450, 1600, 1800, 2000, 2200) m
Allow extra if your tension is dense or you lengthen the body.

Example: 50 g / 120 m balls → 11 (13, 14, 15, 17, 19) balls.

Suggested colourways: black, charcoal, oxblood, forest, midnight navy.

Needles

• 3.25 mm for ribs and button band
• 4 mm for the body and sleeves (straight or circular, worked flat)
• 3.25 mm circular, 80–100 cm, for the continuous button/neck band
• Cable needle

Notions

• Stitch markers (at least 2, plus extras for buttonholes)
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Tapestry needle
• 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8) buttons, 18–20 mm (pewter or ornate buttons suit the motif)

Tension (gauge)

22 sts and 30 rows = 10 cm over stocking stitch on 4 mm needles, after blocking.

Gothic Flower Cable (40 sts) = 16 cm wide after blocking.

Always work a swatch that includes both stocking stitch and at least one 32-row cable repeat. If the cable panel is narrower or wider than 16 cm, change needle size and re-swatch; do not “ease” a 2 cm error across the back.

Abbreviations (UK)

MB (Make Bobble): (k1, p1, k1) into next st (3 sts), turn, p3, turn, k3, turn, p3, turn, sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso. (1 st rem). Snug the bobble to the RS before continuing.

Pattern notes

• The cardigan is worked in pieces, from the bottom up, then seamed. Shoulders are joined before the button band is picked up.
• The Gothic Flower Cable is worked on the back only, over the centre 40 sts. Place markers either side of this panel and leave them in place until the back neck.
• On WS rows of the cable, work stitches as they present: purl the knit (and bobble) sts; knit the purl sts. Bobbles are never remade on the WS — purl that single stitch.
• Selvedge: knit the first and last stitch of every row on Back, Fronts and Sleeves (included in the stitch counts). Use these for seaming.
• V-neck and armhole shaping on the fronts happen at the same time. Read the whole front section before you begin the armhole.
• Women’s buttoning: buttonholes sit on the right front as worn. For men’s/unisex buttoning, work the buttonholes on the left front instead.
• Block the pieces before seaming, pinning the cable panel to 16 cm wide so the roses open.
• Cable fabric uses more yarn than stocking stitch; do not skimp on metreage.

Gothic Flower Cable (GFC)

Worked over 40 sts. Repeat Rows 1–32 for length. Stitch count is 40 on every row (✓).

Row 1 (RS): C4B, p14, k4, p14, C4F. (4+14+4+14+4 = 40 ✓)
Row 2 and every WS row: Work sts as they present (p the k sts and bobbles; k the p sts).
Row 3: k4, p13, T3B, T3F, p13, k4. (40 ✓)
Row 5: C4B, p12, T3B, p2, T3F, p12, C4F. (40 ✓)
Row 7: k4, p11, T3B, p4, T3F, p11, k4. (40 ✓)
Row 9: C4B, p10, T3B, p6, T3F, p10, C4F. (40 ✓)
Row 11: k4, p9, T3B, p8, T3F, p9, k4. (40 ✓)
Row 13: C4B, p8, T3B, p4, MB, p5, T3F, p8, C4F. (1 bobble; 40 ✓)
Row 15: k4, p7, T3B, p3, MB, p4, MB, p3, T3F, p7, k4. (2 bobbles; 40 ✓)
Row 17: C4B, p7, T3F, p2, MB, p2, MB, p3, MB, p2, T3B, p7, C4F. (3 bobbles — fullest bloom; 40 ✓)
Row 19: k4, p8, T3F, p3, MB, p2, MB, p3, T3B, p8, k4. (2 bobbles; 40 ✓)
Row 21: C4B, p9, T3F, p3, MB, p4, T3B, p9, C4F. (1 bobble; 40 ✓)
Row 23: k4, p10, T3F, p6, T3B, p10, k4. (40 ✓)
Row 25: C4B, p11, T3F, p4, T3B, p11, C4F. (40 ✓)
Row 27: k4, p12, T3F, p2, T3B, p12, k4. (40 ✓)
Row 29: C4B, p13, T3F, T3B, p13, C4F. (40 ✓)
Row 31: k4, p14, C4B, p14, k4. (40 ✓)
Row 32 (WS): Work sts as they present.

Rep Rows 1–32.

Reading the motif: Rows 1–12 open a pointed gothic oval between two 4-st rope pillars. Rows 13–21 place a diamond of nine bobbles (1-2-3-2-1) at the widest point — the rose. Rows 23–32 close the oval to a 4-st knot, which becomes the stem of the next flower.

Back

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 104 (112, 124, 136, 148, 156) sts.

Rib row 1 (RS): k1 (selvedge), *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, k1 (selvedge).
Rib row 2 (WS): k1, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, k1.

These 2 rows form 2×2 rib with knit selvedges. Work until rib measures 5 cm, ending after a WS row.

Change to 4 mm needles.

Set cable panel (RS): k32 (36, 42, 48, 54, 58), pm, work Row 1 of GFC over next 40 sts, pm, k32 (36, 42, 48, 54, 58).
(32+40+32 = 104; 36+40+36 = 112; 42+40+42 = 124; 48+40+48 = 136; 54+40+54 = 148; 58+40+58 = 156 ✓)

Next row (WS): k1, p to marker, sm, GFC Row 2, sm, p to last st, k1.

Continue in st st with GFC between markers, working the next GFC row on every RS row, until Back measures 42 (42, 43, 43, 44, 44) cm from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.

Shape armholes

Cast off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 96 (102, 112, 122, 132, 138) sts.
(104−8=96; 112−10=102; 124−12=112; 136−14=122; 148−16=132; 156−18=138 ✓)

Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) RS rows, as foll: k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
86 (90, 98, 106, 114, 118) sts.
(96−10=86; 102−12=90; 112−14=98; 122−16=106; 132−18=114; 138−20=118 ✓)

Keep the GFC markers in place; the panel remains fully intact.

Work straight until armhole measures 17 (18, 19, 20.5, 22, 23.5) cm, ending after a WS row. (Total length from cast-on is now about 59 (60, 62, 63.5, 66, 67.5) cm.)

Shape back neck and shoulders

Next row (RS): Work 28 (29, 32, 35, 38, 39) sts, turn, leaving rem sts on a holder.

Left shoulder (as worn): Working on these 28 (29, 32, 35, 38, 39) sts only: Dec 1 st at neck edge of next 3 rows. 25 (26, 29, 32, 35, 36) sts. (28−3=25, etc. ✓)
At the same time, when armhole measures 19 (20, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5) cm, shape shoulder as foll (if neck decreases are not yet complete, finish them during the shoulder steps):

Cast off 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 12) sts at beg of next RS row (shoulder edge), work 1 row,
cast off 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 12) sts at beg of next RS row, work 1 row,
cast off rem 9 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) sts.

Return to held sts. With RS facing, slip centre 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts onto a holder for back neck, rejoin yarn to rem 28 (29, 32, 35, 38, 39) sts and work to end.

(28+30+28=86; 29+32+29=90; 32+34+32=98; 35+36+35=106; 38+38+38=114; 39+40+39=118 ✓)

Right shoulder: Complete as left shoulder, reversing shapings (neck decreases at the beg of WS rows / end of RS rows; shoulder cast-offs at the beg of WS rows).

Right Front (as worn)

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 48 (52, 56, 64, 68, 76) sts.

Work 2×2 rib with knit selvedges as for Back for 5 cm, ending after a WS row.

Change to 4 mm needles. Work in st st (k on RS, p on WS, knit selvedges) until Front matches Back to the start of armhole shaping, ending after a RS row.

Shape armhole and V-neck (at the same time)

Neck sits at the beg of RS rows; armhole sits at the beg of WS rows.

Next row (WS): Cast off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts (armhole), work to end. 44 (47, 50, 57, 60, 67) sts.

Next row (RS) — begin V-neck: k1, ssk, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (armhole decrease).

Continue as foll:

• Armhole: Dec 1 st at armhole edge of next 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) RS rows. (Total armhole sts removed = 9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 19) ✓)
• V-neck: Dec 1 st at neck edge of this first RS row, then on every foll 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 3rd) row, until 25 (26, 29, 32, 35, 36) sts rem.

When armhole decreases are complete, work straight at the armhole edge. When neck decreases are complete, work straight at the neck edge.

Work until armhole matches Back to the start of shoulder shaping, ending after a RS row.

Shape shoulder

Cast off at armhole edge (beg of WS rows) 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 12) sts once, then 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 12) sts once, then rem 9 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) sts.
(8+8+9=25; 9+9+8=26; 10+10+9=29; 11+11+10=32; 12+12+11=35; 12+12+12=36 ✓)

Check: 48−9 armhole−14 neck=25; 52−11−15=26; 56−13−14=29; 64−15−17=32; 68−17−16=35; 76−19−21=36 ✓

Left Front (as worn)

Work as Right Front to the start of armhole shaping, but end after a WS row.

Shape armhole and V-neck (at the same time)

Neck sits at the end of RS rows; armhole sits at the beg of RS rows.

Next row (RS): Cast off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts (armhole), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (first neck decrease). 43 (46, 49, 56, 59, 66) sts after the cast-off, before counting that neck dec on the same row — work the neck dec in this row: 42 (45, 48, 55, 58, 65) sts at row end.

Continue:

• Armhole: Dec 1 st at armhole edge of next 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) RS rows (k1, ssk at beg of RS). Total armhole removed = 9 (11, 13, 15, 17, 19) ✓
• V-neck: Dec 1 st at neck edge (k2tog, k1 at end of RS rows) on this first RS row, then on every foll 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 3rd) row, until 25 (26, 29, 32, 35, 36) sts rem.

Complete as Right Front, reversing shapings (shoulder cast-offs at the beg of RS rows).

Sleeves (make 2)

With 3.25 mm needles, cast on 48 (52, 52, 56, 60, 64) sts.

Work 2×2 rib with knit selvedges as for Back until cuff measures 6 cm, ending after a WS row.

Change to 4 mm needles. Beg st st.

Inc row (RS): k1, m1 (lift bar between sts, k tbl), k to last st, m1, k1. (2 sts increased)

Work this inc row on the next RS row, then on every foll 8th (8th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 4th) row 11 (11, 15, 17, 19, 23) times more.
12 (12, 16, 18, 20, 24) increase pairs → 48+24=72; 52+24=76; 52+32=84; 56+36=92; 60+40=100; 64+48=112 sts ✓

Work straight until Sleeve measures 44 (45, 45, 46, 46, 47) cm from cast-on, ending after a WS row.

Shape sleeve cap

Cast off 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts at beg of next 2 rows. 64 (66, 72, 78, 84, 94) sts.
(72−8=64; 76−10=66; 84−12=72; 92−14=78; 100−16=84; 112−18=94 ✓)

Dec 1 st at each end of next 8 (8, 10, 10, 12, 12) RS rows. 48 (50, 52, 58, 60, 70) sts.
(64−16=48; 66−16=50; 72−20=52; 78−20=58; 84−24=60; 94−24=70 ✓)

Work 8 (8, 6, 6, 4, 4) rows straight.

Dec 1 st at each end of next 11 (11, 11, 13, 13, 17) RS rows. 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 36) sts.
(48−22=26; 50−22=28; 52−22=30; 58−26=32; 60−26=34; 70−34=36 ✓)

Cast off 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows. 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24) sts. (26−12=14, etc. ✓)

Cast off rem sts.

The cap should measure about 17 (18, 19, 20.5, 22, 23.5) cm. If it is short, add extra straight rows after the first decrease group; if it is long, work fewer straight rows. A cap 1.5–2.5 cm shorter than the armhole depth is correct for a set-in seam.

Finishing

1. Block. Wet-block or steam-block all pieces to the finished measurements. Pin the Gothic Flower Cable to 16 cm wide and the full back length so the mandorlas and bobble roses open. Allow to dry fully.

2. Shoulders. Join both shoulder seams with mattress stitch (or a three-needle cast-off if you left live sts).

3. Button and neck band.
With 3.25 mm circular needle and RS facing, beginning at the Right Front hem:

• Pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows up the Right Front to the shoulder (along the straight edge and the V).
• Knit the 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) held back-neck sts (or pick up 1 st per st if they were cast off).
• Pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows down the Left Front to the hem.

Count the stitches. Adjust by increasing or decreasing 1–3 sts evenly on the next row so that you have an odd number (1×1 rib will then begin and end with k1 on the RS). Place a locking marker at each shoulder seam and at the start of the V on each front.

Rib row 1 (WS): p1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
Rib row 2 (RS): k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end.

Work 2 rows more in 1×1 rib.

Buttonhole row (RS): Work in rib to the Right Front (the first section you picked up). Place 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8) buttonholes evenly between 1.5 cm above the hem and the start of the V-neck, working each buttonhole as (k2tog, yfwd) on a knit rib stitch so the yarn-over sits in pattern. Do not place buttonholes on the V itself. Continue in rib across back neck and Left Front.

Work 4 more rows in 1×1 rib (band measures about 3 cm). Cast off loosely in rib.

4. Sleeves. Set in the sleeves, matching the underarm cast-offs and easing the cap around the armhole. The centre of the cap meets the shoulder seam.

5. Side and sleeve seams. Join side seams and sleeve seams with mattress stitch, matching rib to rib.

6. Buttons. Sew buttons to the Left Front opposite the buttonholes. Weave in all ends.

7. Final press. Steam the seams lightly. Do not flatten the bobbles or rope cables — hover the iron and use steam only.

Schematic (measurements in cm)

        shoulder 11.5 (12, 13, 14.5, 16, 16.5)
       |------|   back neck ~16–21
  ____/        \____     total length
 /   |  GFC 40 sts |  \    61 (62, 64, 65.5, 68, 69.5)
|    |   = 16 cm   |   |
|    |             |   |  armhole 19 (20, 21, 22.5, 24, 25.5)
|    |             |   |
|    |             |   |  body to armhole
|____|_____________|___|  42 (42, 43, 43, 44, 44)
     back 45 (49, 54, 60, 65, 69)
     bust buttoned 92 (99, 108, 121, 130, 141)

Knitting the cable cleanly (advanced tips)

• Use a firm cable needle; travelling T3B/T3F stitches loosen if you stretch the row.
• On bobble rows, work to the MB, complete the bobble (including all four turning rows), then continue. Count to 40 at the end of every RS row until the repeat is in your hands.
• If a bobble looks lost on the WS purl field, tug it through to the RS with the tip of the cable needle.
• The rope pillars (C4B / C4F on Rows 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29) should stack vertically. If they drift, you have missed a T3 travel inside the mandorla.
• You will work a little over five 32-row repeats from hem rib to back neck; a rose (Rows 13–21) will sit somewhere on the upper back. To place a rose just below the neck, count rows from the planned neck line and start the GFC on a different row of the repeat after the hem.

Making it yours

• Longer body: add complete 32-row cable repeats before the armhole; add the same extra length to both fronts.
• Shorter/cropped: remove one 32-row repeat (about 10.5 cm) from the body; start the V-neck at the new armhole.
• More gothic texture: work the first and last 4 sts of each front in a C4B/C4F rope (same schedule as the back pillars). Recheck the V-neck decrease count — those 4 sts stay in cable until they are decreased away.
• Buttons: 18 mm sits neatly on a 3 cm band; heavier metal buttons need a firmer cast-off on the band.

Wear it with the back as the showpiece — the roses should read clearly from a few steps away once blocked.