Harvest Drape Cardigan

Long, flowy top-down raglan cardigan with autumnal colorwork at hem and cuffs

A relaxed, open-front coatigan worked seamlessly from the neck down. The yoke and body are easy stockinette with raglan shaping and gentle A-line flare. Stranded colorwork — pumpkins, acorns, and mushrooms — is saved for the hem and cuffs so the motifs stay bold and the knitting stays approachable.

Skill level: Easy (basic raglan increases; two-color stranded colorwork at hem and cuffs only)

Sizes

XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)

To fit bust: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62)" [76 (86.5, 96.5, 106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5, 157.5) cm]

Shown in a flowy oversized fit with about 10" (25.5 cm) positive ease at the bust. Choose the size closest to your bust + 8–12" (20.5–30.5 cm).

Finished measurements

Bust (buttoned, at underarm): 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72)" [101.5 (112, 122, 132, 142, 152.5, 162.5, 172.5, 183) cm]

Hem circumference: 48 (52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80)" [122 (132, 142, 152.5, 162.5, 172.5, 183, 193, 203) cm]

Yoke depth (back neck to underarm): 9¼ (9¾, 10½, 11, 11¾, 12¼, 13, 13¼, 13½)" [23.5 (25, 26.5, 28, 30, 31, 33, 33.5, 34.5) cm]

Length from underarm to hem: 24½" [62 cm] all sizes (20" stockinette + colorwork + ribbing)

Total back length (neck to hem): 33¾ (34¼, 35, 35½, 36¼, 36¾, 37½, 37¾, 38)" [85.5 (87, 89, 90, 92, 93.5, 95.5, 96, 96.5) cm]

Upper arm: 14 (15¼, 16, 17¼, 18, 19¼, 20, 21¼, 22)" [35.5 (38.5, 40.5, 44, 45.5, 49, 51, 54, 56) cm]

Sleeve length from underarm: 18 (18, 18½, 18½, 19, 19, 19½, 19½, 20)" [45.5 (45.5, 47, 47, 48.5, 48.5, 49.5, 49.5, 51) cm]

Cuff circumference: 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14)" [20.5 (25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 30.5, 30.5, 30.5, 35.5, 35.5) cm]

Materials

Yarn

Worsted weight wool or wool-blend (about 200–220 yds / 183–201 m per 100 g).

MC (main color) — deep forest, heathered brown, or warm oatmeal
1250 (1400, 1550, 1700, 1900, 2100, 2300, 2550, 2800) yds [1145 (1280, 1420, 1555, 1740, 1920, 2105, 2330, 2560) m]

CC1 (pumpkin orange) — pumpkins and warm fills
130 (140, 155, 170, 185, 200, 220, 240, 260) yds [120 (130, 140, 155, 170, 185, 200, 220, 240) m]

CC2 (golden yellow / ochre) — acorn caps, mushroom gills, leaf bits
90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 145, 160, 175, 190) yds [80 (90, 100, 110, 120, 135, 145, 160, 175) m]

CC3 (cream, rust, or moss) — mushroom stems, seeds, outline pops
90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 145, 160, 175, 190) yds [80 (90, 100, 110, 120, 135, 145, 160, 175) m]

Yardage is generous for a long coatigan; leftover CC is useful for extra motif rounds or duplicate-stitch highlights.

Needles

• US 7 (4.5 mm) 32–40" (80–100 cm) circular, or size to get stockinette gauge — main fabric
• US 8 (5 mm) circular of the same length, or size to get colorwork gauge to match stockinette — hem and cuff colorwork
• US 5 (3.75 mm) 32–40" (80–100 cm) circular — ribbing and button bands
• US 7 and US 8 DPNs or a long circular for magic loop — sleeves
• Spare US 5 for working the second button band if you prefer two bands rather than one continuous band

Notions

• 4 raglan stitch markers, plus 2 contrasting side markers
• Stitch holders or waste yarn
• Tapestry needle
• 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) buttons, ⅞–1" (22–25 mm)
• Optional: extra marker for buttonhole spacing

Gauge

Stockinette (US 7 / 4.5 mm): 20 sts and 26 rows = 4" (10 cm), blocked.

Stranded colorwork (US 8 / 5 mm, or size to match): 20 sts and 26 rows = 4" (10 cm), blocked.

Colorwork often knits 1–2 sts per inch tighter than stockinette. Swatch Chart A (or a 20-st two-color repeat) in the round or flat and change the colorwork needle until the stitch gauge matches 20 sts = 4" (10 cm). Row gauge may differ slightly; hem and cuff heights are written in inches as well as chart rows.

Abbreviations (US)

BOR — beginning of round
CC — contrast color
CO — cast on
k — knit
k2tog — knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease)
kfb — knit into front and back of the same stitch (1 st increased)
m — marker
M1L — make 1 left (lift the bar from front to back, knit through the back loop)
M1R — make 1 right (lift the bar from back to front, knit through the front loop)
MC — main color
p — purl
pm — place marker
RS — right side
sl m — slip marker
ssk — slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
st(s) — stitch(es)
WS — wrong side
wyib / wyif — with yarn in back / with yarn in front
yo — yarn over

Notes

• Cardigan is worked flat from the neck down; sleeves are worked in the round.
• Raglan increase (RS): *Knit to 1 st before marker, kfb, sl m, kfb; repeat from * at each of the 4 raglan markers, knit to end. +8 sts.
• Body-only raglan increase (RS): Knit to 1 st before first marker, kfb, sl m, knit across sleeve to the next marker, sl m, kfb; knit to 1 st before third marker, kfb, sl m, knit across sleeve, sl m, kfb; knit to end. +4 sts (fronts and back only; sleeve stitch counts stay the same).
• A-line increase (RS): Knit to first side marker, M1R, sl m, M1L; knit to second side marker, M1R, sl m, M1L; knit to end. +4 sts.
• Two colors per row in the colorwork. Catch floats at least every 5 stitches (every 3–4 is more stable). Do not pull floats tight.
• Color dominance: Hold the motif yarn (CC1 / CC2 / CC3) as the dominant yarn (typically in the left hand for English/continental pairings, or the yarn that sits below on the WS) so pumpkins, acorns, and mushrooms sit in front of the MC background. Keep the same hand assignment for the whole band.
• Front edges are worked in pattern (no slipped selvedge) so the hem repeat can run edge to edge. Button bands later hide the pickup row.
• The deep, slightly dropped raglan is intentional — it gives the slouchy drape of a coatigan.

Attached Stitch Chart

Use the separate attached chart panel that accompanies this pattern for all visual grids. Do not redraw the charts and do not work from any chart imagined in this text — there is no inline grid here.

Where the charts live: The companion chart panel sits with this pattern (after these notes / beside the written instructions). It contains Chart A (Hem) and Chart B (Cuffs). Motifs are autumnal: pumpkins, acorns, and mushrooms.

How to read the charts (knitting):

• Charts show the public (RS) face of the work. Each square is 1 stitch.
• Chart A — hem, worked flat: RS (odd) rows are knit, read right to left. WS (even) rows are purl, read left to right, using the color shown for each stitch. Work every row of Chart A once, then go on to the hem ribbing.
• Chart B — cuffs, worked in the round: Every round is knit, read right to left. Work every round of Chart B once, then go on to cuff ribbing.
• Color boxes on the attached panel map as follows unless the panel prints a different key: MC background; CC1 pumpkin/main motif; CC2 gold/ochre; CC3 cream, rust, or moss. Only two colors are in use on any single row/round. Drop the unused CC and rejoin on the row it returns.
• Begin each hem RS row at the right-front edge (beginning of the row) with stitch 1 of the repeat. Begin each cuff round at the underarm BOR with stitch 1 of the repeat.

Yarn management and stitch-count math:

• Chart A is a 20-stitch repeat. Hem stitch counts are 240 (260, 280, 300, 320, 340, 360, 380, 400) = 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) repeats even across the row. No extra balancing stitches.
• Chart B is a 10-stitch repeat. Cuff stitch counts are 40 (50, 50, 50, 60, 60, 60, 70, 70) = 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7) repeats around. No extra balancing stitches.
• Maximum float: 5 stitches. If a motif run is longer than 5 sts of one color, catch the resting yarn on the WS every 3rd–5th stitch by twisting it around the working yarn, then continue. Catch in different places on adjacent rows so the catches do not stack.
• Do not strand across the front opening; the two front edges are separate. At each front edge, drop the unused color, leaving a 4–5" tail to weave in, or wrap the two yarns once around each other at the edge to keep the edge firm for pickup.
• If your attached Chart A or B uses a different repeat than 20 / 10, do not force it. Stay with the stitch counts in this pattern and choose the panel chart that matches those repeats.

Pattern

Yoke

With US 7 (4.5 mm) and MC, using a long-tail (or your favorite firm) cast-on, CO 84 (92, 104, 112, 124, 132, 144, 156, 164) sts.

Setup row (RS): K 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32) right front, pm, k 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 18) right sleeve, pm, k 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64) back, pm, k 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 18) left sleeve, pm, k 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32) left front.

Setup row (WS): Purl.

Stitch check: 16 + 10 + 32 + 10 + 16 = 84 ✓ (smallest size; larger sizes follow the same five-section split).

All-raglan increases

Inc row (RS): *Knit to 1 st before marker, kfb, sl m, kfb; repeat from * 3 more times, knit to end. +8 sts.

WS: Purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows 26 (28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 32, 32) more times — 27 (29, 29, 31, 31, 33, 33, 33, 33) raglan increase rows worked in total.

Stitch counts after all-raglan shaping:

Check (XS): 84 + (8 × 27) = 84 + 216 = 300 ✓
Fronts 16 + 27 = 43; sleeves 10 + 54 = 64; back 32 + 54 = 86 ✓

Wait — I need to fix this. I said N_all = 26 (28...) as the number of times we REPEAT after the first, vs total increase rows.

Let me be internally consistent in the published pattern with the planning numbers:

Planning: N_all = 26 (28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 32, 32) total all-raglan increase rows.

After N_all: F = 16+26=42 (18+28=46, 20+28=48, 22+30=52, 24+30=54, 26+32=58, 28+32=60, 30+32=62, 32+32=64) S = 10+52=62 (10+56=66, 12+56=68, 12+60=72, 14+60=74, 14+64=78, 16+64=80, 18+64=82, 18+64=82) B = 32+52=84 (36+56=92, 40+56=96, 44+60=104, 48+60=108, 52+64=116, 56+64=120, 60+64=124, 64+64=128)

I had an off-by-one in the table above. The published pattern must use the correct totals only.

Corrected narrative (this is what prints — no contradiction left in the pattern):

Work the Inc row (RS) and WS purl row 26 (28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 32, 32) times.

Stitch counts:

Each front: 42 (46, 48, 52, 54, 58, 60, 62, 64)
Each sleeve: 62 (66, 68, 72, 74, 78, 80, 82, 82)
Back: 84 (92, 96, 104, 108, 116, 120, 124, 128)
Total: 292 (316, 328, 352, 364, 388, 400, 412, 420)

Check (XS): 84 + (8 × 26) = 84 + 208 = 292 ✓
Front 16 + 26 = 42; sleeve 10 + 52 = 62; back 32 + 52 = 84 ✓
Check (5XL): 164 + (8 × 32) = 164 + 256 = 420 ✓

Body-only increases

Work Body-only raglan increase (RS), then purl WS.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 11, 12) times.

Stitch counts:

Each front: 46 (50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 73, 76)
Each sleeve: 62 (66, 68, 72, 74, 78, 80, 82, 82) — unchanged
Back: 92 (100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140, 146, 152)
Total: 308 (332, 352, 376, 396, 420, 440, 456, 468)

Check (XS): 292 + (4 × 4) = 292 + 16 = 308 ✓
Front 42 + 4 = 46; back 84 + 8 = 92 ✓
Check (4XL): 412 + (4 × 11) = 412 + 44 = 456; front 62 + 11 = 73; back 124 + 22 = 146 ✓
Check (5XL): 420 + (4 × 12) = 420 + 48 = 468; front 64 + 12 = 76; back 128 + 24 = 152 ✓

Work even in stockinette (knit RS, purl WS) if needed until yoke measures 9¼ (9¾, 10½, 11, 11¾, 12¼, 13, 13¼, 13½)" [23.5 (25, 26.5, 28, 30, 31, 33, 33.5, 34.5) cm] from CO, ending after a WS row.

Divide for body and sleeves

Next row (RS): Knit 46 (50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 73, 76) right-front sts. Place the next 62 (66, 68, 72, 74, 78, 80, 82, 82) sleeve sts on holder or waste yarn. Using the backward-loop (or knitted) method, CO 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 28) underarm sts, pm after the center of this cast-on (after 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14) sts) for the right side seam. Knit 92 (100, 108, 116, 124, 132, 140, 146, 152) back sts. Place the next 62 (66, 68, 72, 74, 78, 80, 82, 82) sleeve sts on holder. CO 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 28) underarm sts, pm after the center of this cast-on for the left side seam. Knit remaining 46 (50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 73, 76) left-front sts.

Body sts: 200 (220, 240, 260, 280, 300, 320, 340, 360)
Check (XS): 46 + 8 + 92 + 8 + 46 = 200 ✓
Check (5XL): 76 + 28 + 152 + 28 + 76 = 360 ✓
Width: 200 sts ÷ 5 sts per inch = 40" ✓

WS: Purl.

Body (A-line)

Work 11 rows even in stockinette, ending after a WS row.

A-line inc row (RS): Knit to first side marker, M1R, sl m, M1L; knit to second side marker, M1R, sl m, M1L; knit to end. +4 sts.

Next 11 rows: Work even (WS purl, RS knit), ending after a WS row.

Repeat the last 12 rows (inc row + 11 even rows) 9 more times — 10 A-line increase rows total.

Body sts: 240 (260, 280, 300, 320, 340, 360, 380, 400)
Check: 200 + (4 × 10) = 240 ✓ (all sizes add the same 40 sts)
Hem width: 240 sts ÷ 5 = 48" ✓

Continue even in stockinette until body measures 20" (51 cm) from underarm, ending after a WS row.

Hem colorwork (Chart A)

Change to US 8 (5 mm) — or the needle that matched colorwork gauge to 20 sts = 4".

Join CC as required by Row 1 of Chart A on the attached chart panel.

Work Chart A across all sts, repeating the 20-st motif 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) times on every row.

• RS rows: knit, chart right to left.
• WS rows: purl, chart left to right.
• Two colors only on any row. Catch floats every 3–5 sts (never more than 5).
• 240 (260, 280, 300, 320, 340, 360, 380, 400) ÷ 20 = 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) ✓

Work every row of Chart A once. Piece should measure about 22–22½" (56–57 cm) from underarm, depending on the attached chart’s row count. If the chart is shorter than 2½" (6.5 cm), work 2–4 extra MC stockinette rows after it so the colorwork band plus those rows equal about 2½" (6.5 cm).

Cut CCs, leaving tails to weave. Return to MC.

Hem ribbing

Change to US 5 (3.75 mm).

Next row (RS): *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Continue 1×1 rib until ribbing measures 2" (5 cm).

Bind off loosely in rib, using US 7 (or a needle one size larger than the ribbing needle) so the hem stays elastic and the A-line can flare. Do not bind off tightly.

Sleeves

Place held 62 (66, 68, 72, 74, 78, 80, 82, 82) sleeve sts onto US 7 (4.5 mm) DPNs or a long circular for magic loop. With MC and RS facing, starting at the center of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 28) sts along the underarm (1 st per CO st). Knit across the sleeve sts and join to work in the round. Pm for BOR at the center of the underarm.

Sleeve sts: 70 (76, 80, 86, 90, 96, 100, 106, 110)
Check (XS): 62 + 8 = 70 ✓
Check (5XL): 82 + 28 = 110 ✓

If small gaps appear at the underarm corners, pick up 1 extra st in each gap on this round, then k2tog those extras on the next round so the count above is restored.

Knit 5 rounds even.

Dec rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before BOR, ssk, k1. −2 sts.

Work decrease rounds every 6th (6th, 6th, 5th, 6th, 5th, 5th, 5th, 5th) round until 40 (50, 50, 50, 60, 60, 60, 70, 70) sts remain.

Then knit even until sleeve measures 14 (14, 14½, 14½, 15, 15, 15½, 15½, 16)" [35.5 (35.5, 37, 37, 38, 38, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5) cm] from underarm.

Check: 40 (50, 50, 50, 60, 60, 60, 70, 70) ÷ 10 = 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7) ✓ for Chart B.

Cuff colorwork (Chart B)

Change to US 8 (5 mm) (or the needle that matched colorwork gauge).

Join CC as required by Round 1 of Chart B on the attached chart panel.

Work Chart B around all sts, repeating the 10-st motif 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 7, 7) times. All rounds are knit; read every round right to left. Two colors per round; catch floats every 3–5 sts.

Work every round of Chart B once. If the attached cuff chart is shorter than 1½" (4 cm), knit extra MC rounds so the colorwork band is about 1½" (4 cm).

Cut CCs. Return to MC.

Cuff ribbing

Change to US 5 (3.75 mm).

Next rnd: *K1, p1; repeat from * around.

Work 1×1 rib for 2" (5 cm).

Bind off loosely in rib.

Work the second sleeve the same way.

Button bands and neckband

The band is worked in one piece: up the right front, around the neck, and down the left front.

With US 5 (3.75 mm), MC, and RS facing, beginning at the right-front hem bind-off:

• Pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along the right front edge to the neck CO.
• Pick up and knit 1 st for every CO st around the neck (the original 84 (92, 104, 112, 124, 132, 144, 156, 164) neck sts), picking up 1 extra st in each raglan “corner” if the edge looks tight (about 4 extras).
• Pick up and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows down the left front edge to the hem bind-off.

Count the stitches. Adjust by increasing or decreasing 1–3 sts evenly on the next row if needed so the total is an odd number (1×1 rib that starts and ends with k1 on the RS).

Row 1 (WS): P1, *k1, p1; repeat from * to end.

Row 2 (RS): K1, *p1, k1; repeat from * to end.

Work 2 more rows in established 1×1 rib (4 rib rows total, ending after a RS row), or until band measures ¾" (2 cm) from pickup, ending after a RS row.

Buttonholes — Right Front band only

Buttons are sewn to the Left Front (as worn). Buttonholes are worked on the Right Front (as worn) — the first section of the band, from hem up to the neck corner.

Place 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) buttonhole positions on the Right Front:

• Top buttonhole: ¾" (2 cm) below the neck corner (where the front edge meets the neck pickup).
• Lowest buttonhole: 8" (20.5 cm) above the hem bind-off, so the colorwork hem can drape open.
• Space the remaining buttonholes evenly between those two. Use pins or locking markers in the band, sitting in purl columns where possible.

Buttonhole row (WS of band, so the yo sits neatly on the next RS): Work in rib to the first marked stitch on the Right Front, yo, k2tog (or yo, p2tog if the marked stitch is a knit on this WS row — the goal is one new loop and one decrease so the stitch count does not change), then rib to the next mark and work the same 2-st buttonhole. Continue until all buttonholes are made, then rib around the neck and down the Left Front to the end. Count should match the previous row.

Work 3 more rows in 1×1 rib (band measures about 1½" / 4 cm). Bind off in rib on the RS, firmly enough that the band does not flare, but not so tight that the fronts shorten.

Finishing

Weave in all ends on the WS. For colorwork tails, weave each color into stitches of the same color for at least 1" (2.5 cm), or split the plies and weave in two directions so ends cannot pop to the RS.

Sew buttons to the Left Front band, opposite the buttonholes, using MC. Take the stitches through the band only (not through the cardigan body) so the band stays neat.

Wet-block the stranded colorwork (required):

1. Soak the cardigan in lukewarm water with a little wool wash for 15–20 minutes until fully saturated.
2. Lift it out supporting the whole garment; squeeze — do not wring.
3. Roll in towels to remove excess water.
4. Lay flat on blocking mats. Pat the body to the finished widths: bust 40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72)", hem 48 (52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80)". Align raglan lines so they run in straight diagonals.
5. Colorwork: Pin the hem and cuffs to the same stitch gauge as the stockinette (20 sts = 4"). Gently even the motifs so pumpkins, acorns, and mushrooms are not stretched into ovals. Do not yank floats from the RS; if a motif puckers, pin a little wider and let water and pins do the work.
6. Do not stretch the ribbing. Pin it just enough to lie flat.
7. Dry completely before unpinning and before sewing on buttons if you prefer to mark button placement after blocking.

Steam-blocking alone is not enough for stranded fabric; the soak lets the floats relax.

Schematic (inches)

Neck CO edge (open):     16¾ (18½, 20¾, 22½, 24¾, 26½, 28¾, 31¼, 32¾)"
Yoke depth:               9¼ (9¾, 10½, 11, 11¾, 12¼, 13, 13¼, 13½)"
Bust at underarm:         40 (44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72)"
Hem:                      48 (52, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72, 76, 80)"
Underarm to hem:          24½" all sizes
Total length:             33¾ (34¼, 35, 35½, 36¼, 36¾, 37½, 37¾, 38)"
Upper arm:                14 (15¼, 16, 17¼, 18, 19¼, 20, 21¼, 22)"
Sleeve length:            18 (18, 18½, 18½, 19, 19, 19½, 19½, 20)"
Cuff:                     8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14)"
Button band:              ~1½" wide; 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9) buttons

Quick stitch-count path (all sizes)

CO 84 (92, 104, 112, 124, 132, 144, 156, 164)
→ after 26 (28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32, 32, 32) × +8 raglan: 292 (316, 328, 352, 364, 388, 400, 412, 420)
→ after 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 11, 12) × +4 body-only: 308 (332, 352, 376, 396, 420, 440, 456, 468)
→ divide, CO underarms: body 200 (220, 240, 260, 280, 300, 320, 340, 360); sleeves 70 (76, 80, 86, 90, 96, 100, 106, 110)
→ 10 × +4 A-line: hem 240 (260, 280, 300, 320, 340, 360, 380, 400) [÷20 for Chart A]
→ sleeve decreases: 40 (50, 50, 50, 60, 60, 60, 70, 70) [÷10 for Chart B]