purlJam

<pattern>

# OCEAN DWELLER CARDIGAN
## A Top-Down Fair Isle Cardigan with Clownfish Motif

**Design**: Advanced colorwork cardigan featuring swimming clownfish and traditional Fair Isle patterns, designed for separating zipper closure.

---

## MATERIALS

**Yarn**: DK weight (light worsted), 100% wool or wool blend recommended for colorwork definition and blocking

**Yardage Requirements by Size**:

| Size | MC (Medium Blue) | CC1 (Orange) | CC2 (White) | CC3 (Black) | CC4 (Coral Pink) | CC5 (Teal) | CC6 (Navy) |
|------|------------------|--------------|-------------|-------------|------------------|------------|------------|
| 1-2  | 900m            | 250m         | 200m        | 120m        | 150m             | 150m       | 150m       |
| 3-4  | 1100m           | 280m         | 220m        | 130m        | 170m             | 170m       | 170m       |
| 5-6  | 1300m           | 310m         | 240m        | 140m        | 190m             | 190m       | 190m       |
| 7-8  | 1500m           | 340m         | 260m        | 150m        | 210m             | 210m       | 210m       |

**Needles**: 
- 4.0mm (UK 8, US 6) circular needle, 80cm length for colorwork
- 3.5mm (UK 9/10, US 4) circular needle, 80cm length for ribbing
- 4.0mm DPNs or long circular for sleeves (for magic loop)
- Spare circular or waste yarn for holding stitches

**Notions**:
- 8 stitch markers (4 in one colour for raglan lines, 4 contrasting)
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- Separating zipper: 50(55-60-65)cm length in coordinating colour
- Sewing needle and thread for zipper installation
- Blocking wires (recommended for colorwork)

---

## GAUGE (TENSION)

**24 stitches × 32 rows = 10cm (4") in Fair Isle colorwork on 4.0mm needles, blocked**

**22 stitches × 30 rows = 10cm in stocking stitch on 4.0mm needles** (reference only)

**CRITICAL**: Gauge swatch MUST be worked in Fair Isle pattern matching Charts A or B. Colorwork naturally reduces fabric elasticity and typically knits tighter than plain stocking stitch. Swatch must be thoroughly blocked before measuring.

To swatch: Cast on 36 sts, work 4 rows in MC stocking stitch, then work 40 rows following Chart A repeat (3 full repeats across), work 4 rows MC, cast off. Wash and block aggressively, allow to dry completely before measuring the centre 24 sts.

---

## SIZES

Sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8)

**To Fit Bust**: 81 (86, 91, 97, 102, 109, 117, 122)cm / 32 (34, 36, 38, 40, 43, 46, 48)"

**Finished Bust** (with fronts meeting at centre): 94 (99, 106, 112, 119, 126, 134, 142)cm / 37 (39, 41.75, 44, 47, 49.5, 52.75, 56)"

Designed with 13-15cm (5-6") positive ease.

**Finished Length** (shoulder to hem): 56 (58, 60, 62, 64, 66, 68, 70)cm / 22 (23, 23.5, 24.5, 25, 26, 26.75, 27.5)"

**Sleeve Length** (underarm to cuff): 43 (44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50)cm / 17 (17.25, 17.75, 18, 18.5, 19, 19.25, 19.75)"

---

## ABBREVIATIONS

**CC**: Contrast Colour
**cn**: cable needle
**CO**: cast on
**cont**: continue
**dec**: decrease
**DPN**: double pointed needle
**inc**: increase
**k**: knit
**k2tog**: knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
**kfb**: knit into front and back of stitch (increase)
**m**: marker
**M1L**: make one left (lift bar between stitches from front to back, knit through back loop)
**M1R**: make one right (lift bar between stitches from back to front, knit through front loop)
**MC**: Main Colour
**p**: purl
**pm**: place marker
**rem**: remaining
**rep**: repeat
**rnd(s)**: round(s)
**RS**: right side
**sl**: slip
**sm**: slip marker
**ssk**: slip slip knit (left-leaning decrease)
**st(s)**: stitch(es)
**St st**: stocking stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS)
**WS**: wrong side
**wyib**: with yarn in back
**yo**: yarn over

---

## NOTES

**Construction**: This cardigan is worked from the top down beginning at the neck edge. The yoke is shaped using raglan increases worked in coordinating colours while establishing Fair Isle patterns. At the underarm, stitches are cast on and sleeves are separated to holders. The body is worked flat with a central clownfish motif panel down the centre fronts, positioned for zipper installation. Sleeves are completed in the round with Fair Isle cuff patterns. Ribbed edging is added for zipper installation, and the separating zipper is sewn in place.

**Colorwork Technique**: This pattern uses stranded (Fair Isle) colorwork throughout. Yarn not in use is carried loosely across the wrong side of the work (floats). 

**Float Management**: Never carry floats longer than 5 stitches. When a gap exceeds 5 stitches, catch the floating yarn by lifting it over the working yarn on the WS. This occurs particularly in the clownfish charts where background colour predominates.

**Colour Dominance**: For consistent tension and clear pattern definition, maintain colour dominance throughout. Hold MC (medium blue) in the right hand and CC yarns in the left hand (or vice versa, but remain consistent). The yarn held in the left position will appear more dominant (slightly larger stitches). For this pattern, hold the motif colours (orange, white) in the dominant position when they are the feature.

**Reading Charts**: Charts are read from bottom to top. On RS rows (odd-numbered rows), read from right to left. On WS rows (even-numbered rows), read from left to right. Each square represents one stitch. The symbol/colour in each square indicates which yarn to use for that stitch.

**Raglan Increases**: Raglan increases are worked as M1R before markers and M1L after markers. Work these increases in MC or the background colour of the current chart to minimize disruption to colorwork patterns. The 4 raglan markers separate: left front, left sleeve, back, right sleeve, right front.

**Sizing Notes**: Sample shown in Size 3. When choosing size, measure a favourite cardigan laid flat and compare to schematic dimensions. This garment is designed with moderate positive ease for comfortable layering.

**Chart Placement**: Charts are worked in the following sequence:
- Yoke: Chart B (8-st repeat) for establish pattern, transitioning to Chart A (12-st repeat)
- Body: Chart A on sleeves and back; Chart C (Clownfish Panel) on fronts
- Sleeves: Chart B at cuff
- Body Hem: Chart B

**Yarn Substitution**: Any DK weight yarn achieving correct tension may be substituted. Ensure sufficient yardage in each colour. Wool or wool blends are strongly recommended for their blocking properties and elasticity in colorwork.

---

## CHARTS

### CHART A: Traditional Fair Isle Band (12-stitch repeat, 16 rows)
```
Row 16: [MC MC MC T5 T5 MC MC MC T5 T5 MC MC] repeat
Row 15: [MC MC T5 C4 C4 T5 T5 C4 C4 T5 MC MC] repeat
Row 14: [MC T5 C4 C4 C4 C4 C4 C4 C4 C4 T5 MC] repeat
Row 13: [MC T5 C4 MC MC C4 C4 MC MC C4 T5 MC] repeat
Row 12: [MC MC C4 MC MC MC MC MC MC C4 MC MC] repeat
Row 11: [MC MC C4 MC MC MC MC MC MC C4 MC MC] repeat
Row 10: [MC T5 C4 MC MC C4 C4 MC MC C4 T5 MC] repeat
Row 9:  [MC T5 C4 C4 C4 C4 C4 C4 C4 C4 T5 MC] repeat
Row 8:  [MC MC T5 C4 C4 T5 T5 C4 C4 T5 MC MC] repeat
Row 7:  [MC MC MC T5 T5 MC MC MC T5 T5 MC MC] repeat
Row 6:  [MC MC T5 C6 C6 T5 T5 C6 C6 T5 MC MC] repeat
Row 5:  [MC T5 C6 C6 C6 C6 C6 C6 C6 C6 T5 MC] repeat
Row 4:  [MC T5 C6 MC MC C6 C6 MC MC C6 T5 MC] repeat
Row 3:  [MC MC C6 MC MC MC MC MC MC C6 MC MC] repeat
Row 2:  [MC MC C6 MC MC MC MC MC MC C6 MC MC] repeat
Row 1:  [MC T5 C6 MC MC C6 C6 MC MC C6 T5 MC] repeat
```

**Key**: MC = Medium Blue (background), T5 = Teal (CC5), C4 = Coral Pink (CC4), C6 = Navy (CC6)

### CHART B: Small Geometric Pattern (8-stitch repeat, 8 rows)
```
Row 8: [MC MC T5 T5 T5 T5 MC MC] repeat
Row 7: [MC T5 MC MC MC MC T5 MC] repeat
Row 6: [MC T5 MC C4 C4 MC T5 MC] repeat
Row 5: [MC T5 MC C4 C4 MC T5 MC] repeat
Row 4: [MC T5 MC MC MC MC T5 MC] repeat
Row 3: [MC MC T5 T5 T5 T5 MC MC] repeat
Row 2: [MC MC MC C4 C4 MC MC MC] repeat
Row 1: [MC MC MC C4 C4 MC MC MC] repeat
```

**Key**: MC = Medium Blue, T5 = Teal, C4 = Coral Pink

### CHART C: Clownfish Motif (24 stitches wide, 32 rows tall)
**Placement**: Work this chart once down the centre of each front, positioning it to begin approximately 15cm below underarm separation. Charts are offset between left and right fronts so fish swim in opposite directions.

**RIGHT FRONT - Clownfish Swimming Right**:
```
Row 32: [MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC]
Row 31: [MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC C1 C1 C1 C1 MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC]
Row 30: [MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 MC MC MC MC MC MC MC]
Row 29: [MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC MC C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 C1 MC MC MC MC MC MC]
Row 28: [MC MC MC MC MC MC MC C1 C1 C1 C2 C2 C2 C2 C1 C1 C1 MC MC MC MC MC MC MC]
Row 27: [MC MC MC MC MC MC C1 C1 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C1 C1 C1 MC MC MC MC MC MC]
Row 26: [MC MC MC MC MC C1 C1 C2 C2 C3 C3 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C1 C1 MC MC MC MC MC MC]
Row 25: [MC MC MC MC C1 C1 C2 C2 C2 C3 C3 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C1 MC MC