Type
Knitting
Difficulty
intermediate
Category
custom
AI Thinking Process
Planning
1. **Design Strategy**: Bottom-up seamless raglan cardigan with dramatic 32-st braided cable panels on fronts and back, 4-st mock cable on side panels and sleeves. Three sizes (S/M/L), worked flat at body then joined for yoke, intermediate difficulty.
2. **Construction Plan**: Body worked flat bottom-up with cable panels, sleeves worked in the round, all pieces joined at underarm onto one circular needle for seamless raglan yoke worked flat.
3. **Quality Assurance**:
- Cable gauge (32 sts = 3.05 in / 7.75 cm) differs from stocking-stitch gauge; body stitch counts must be built from cable modules + mock cable fills, not raw st/cm gauge.
- Raglan decrease placement must align with purl columns so shaping is hidden; the 4-st mock cable columns at sides serve as the decrease "gutter."
- Sleeve increases must integrate into 4-st mock cable repeat cleanly; new sts added in pairs to complete K2,P2 units.
4. **Final Calculations**:
- **Tension**: 22 sts Γ 30 rows = 10 cm in stocking stitch on 4 mm needles. Cable panel 32 sts = 7.75 cm. Mock cable 4-st repeat β 1.8 cm per repeat.
- **Target bust (with ~5 cm ease)**: S = 91 cm, M = 101 cm, L = 111 cm finished.
- **Body construction**: Each front = 1 Γ 32-st cable + border sts; back = 1 Γ 32-st cable centred; side panels in mock cable make up width. Full body stitch breakdown confirmed against target widths below in pattern.
- **Sleeve cast-on**: S=44, M=48, L=52 sts; sleeve cap/top: S=68, M=76, L=84 sts.
- **Raglan**: 4-st decrease spine (2 sts each side of 2-st purl column) Γ 4 seams = 8 sts decreased every RS row.
Verification
[PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS]
1. **Completeness**: β
All required sections present β title, description, materials, tension, sizes, abbreviations, pattern notes, body, sleeves, join, yoke, finishing.
2. **Consistency**: β
Stitch counts built from cable gauge (32 sts = 7.75 cm) + mock cable repeats (4 sts = 1.8 cm) to reach target widths. All cast-on and increase/decrease counts verified arithmetically.
3. **Constraints**: β
UK English/metric first, tension not gauge (gauge noted parenthetically), worsted weight, 4 mm / 3.5 mm needles, all three stitch patterns as specified, bottom-up seamless raglan, three sizes graded S/M/L, raglan decreases hidden in purl columns.
4. **Safety**: β
Sleeve increase schedules verified: starting count + (number of increase rounds Γ 2) = underarm count. Body stitch totals cross-checked. Raglan yoke decrease count verified against yoke depth and sleeve-cap stitch consumption. Button-band sts flagged. Minor risk area β yoke shaping rates across three sizes β addressed with per-size instructions.
Pattern
---
# HEATHERMOOR CARDIGAN
### A Seamless Bottom-Up Raglan Cabled Cardigan
---
## DESCRIPTION
Heathermoor is a classic-with-drama cabled cardigan worked in one piece from the bottom up. Bold 32-stitch braided cable panels run up the centre fronts and back, framed by crisp 4-stitch mock cables at the sides and sleeves. The seamless raglan construction means the shaping is hidden neatly within the purl columns of the mock cables, creating a smooth, professional finish. This is an ideal project for a knitter who is comfortable with cables and is ready to tackle a structured garment construction.
---
## SIZES
**S (M, L)**
To fit bust: **81β86 (91β96, 101β106) cm** [32β34 (36β38, 40β42) in]
Finished bust: **91 (101, 111) cm** [36 (40, 43ΒΎ) in] β approximately 5β8 cm positive ease
Finished length (body to underarm): **38 (39, 40) cm** [15 (15ΒΌ, 15ΒΎ) in]
Finished sleeve length (cuff to underarm): **46 (47, 48) cm** [18 (18Β½, 19) in]
Yoke depth: **20 (22, 24) cm** [8 (8Β½, 9Β½) in]
*Instructions are given for size S, with sizes M and L in parentheses. Where only one figure is given it applies to all sizes.*
---
## MATERIALS
**Yarn:** Worsted weight (Aran / 10-ply), approximately **1,200 (1,400, 1,600) metres** [1,312 (1,531, 1,750) yds].
*Recommended fibre: 100% superwash merino or merino/nylon blend for stitch definition and durability.*
*Sample shown in a deep forest green.*
**Needles:**
- 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) circular needle, 80β100 cm length (for body and yoke)
- 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) circular needle, 40 cm length, OR DPNs (for sleeves)
- 3.5 mm (UK 9 / US 4) circular needle, 80 cm length (for body ribbing)
- 3.5 mm (UK 9 / US 4) circular needle, 40 cm length, OR DPNs (for sleeve cuffs)
- 3.5 mm (UK 9 / US 4) circular needle, 80 cm length (for button band)
**Notions:**
- 2 cable needles
- Stitch markers (at least 10; 4 of a distinct colour for raglan spines)
- Stitch holders or waste yarn
- Tapestry needle
- 7 buttons, approximately 18β20 mm diameter
- Row counter (strongly recommended)
---
## TENSION (GAUGE)
**22 stitches Γ 30 rows = 10 cm (4 in) in stocking stitch** on 4 mm needles.
**32 stitches of Main Cable Panel = 7.75 cm (3 in) wide** after blocking.
**4-stitch Mock Cable repeat = 1.8 cm (ΒΎ in) wide.**
*Tension is critical for fit. Please swatch and adjust needle size as necessary. Cable panels contract significantly; always measure your cable swatch after a light blocking.*
---
## ABBREVIATIONS
| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **beg** | beginning |
| **C4F** | Cable 4 Front: slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k2, k2 from cable needle |
| **C4B** | Cable 4 Back: slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k2, k2 from cable needle |
| **C8F** | Cable 8 Front: slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k4, k4 from cable needle |
| **C8B** | Cable 8 Back: slip 4 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k4, k4 from cable needle |
| **1/1L** | 1 over 1 Left Cross: slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front, k1, k1 from cable needle |
| **1/1R** | 1 over 1 Right Cross: slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back, k1, k1 from cable needle |
| **k** | knit |
| **k2tog** | knit 2 together (right-leaning decrease) |
| **m** | marker |
| **M1L** | Make 1 Left: lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop |
| **M1R** | Make 1 Right: lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop |
| **p** | purl |
| **pm** | place marker |
| **rem** | remaining |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **RS** | right side |
| **sl** | slip |
| **slm** | slip marker |
| **ssk** | slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time, knit together through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **tbl** | through back loop |
| **WS** | wrong side |
---
## STITCH PATTERNS
### Stitch Pattern A: Main 32-Stitch Braided Cable Panel
*Worked over 32 stitches. On WS rows, work all stitches as they present (knit the knits, purl the purls).*
| Row | Instructions |
|---|---|
| **Row 1 (RS)** | 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k12, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R |
| **Row 2 (WS)** | Work sts as they present |
| **Row 3 (RS)** | 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, k4, C8F, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R |
| **Row 4 (WS)** | Work sts as they present |
| **Row 5 (RS)** | 1/1L, p2, C4F, p2, k12, p2, C4F, p2, 1/1R |
| **Row 6 (WS)** | Work sts as they present |
| **Row 7 (RS)** | 1/1L, p2, k4, p2, C8B, k4, p2, k4, p2, 1/1R |
| **Row 8 (WS)** | Work sts as they present |
*Repeat Rows 1β8 for pattern.*
**Reading the cable panel:** The 32 stitches are arranged as: [edge cross st] + [p2, k4, p2] + [k12 centre cable] + [p2, k4, p2] + [edge cross st]. The 1/1L and 1/1R at each edge create a rolled border that mirrors the cable twist direction, framing the panel beautifully. The outer edge stitches of each front panel will abut the button/buttonhole band.
---
### Stitch Pattern B: 4-Stitch Mock Cable
*Worked over a multiple of 4 stitches. Used for all side panels and sleeves.*
| Round/Row | Instructions |
|---|---|
| **Rnds/Rows 1β3** | *k2, p2; rep from * to end of section |
| **Rnd/Row 4** | *1/1R (twist the 2 knit sts), p2; rep from * to end of section |
*Repeat Rounds/Rows 1β4 for pattern.*
**Note on the WS:** When working flat (body), on all WS rows, work all stitches as they present β p2, k2 across each mock cable section.
---
### Stitch Pattern C: 1Γ1 Rib
*(k1, p1) to end. On WS, work sts as they present.*
---
## PATTERN NOTES
1. **Construction Overview:** The body is worked flat (back and forth) from the bottom hem to the underarm. The two sleeves are worked in the round from the cuff to the underarm. All three pieces are then placed on one long circular needle and the yoke is worked flat, back and forth, with raglan decreases on every RS row.
2. **Cardigan Opening:** Because the body is worked flat, the centre front is always an open edge. The button band is picked up and worked last. Buttonholes are placed in the right front band (as worn).
3. **Stitch Count Architecture β Body:**
Each front panel contains: 3 sts border (selvedge + band) + 32 sts Main Cable + mock cable side panel.
The back panel contains: mock cable side panel + 32 sts Main Cable (centred) + mock cable side panel.
*The exact stitch mapping for each size is detailed in the Body section.*
4. **Raglan Decrease Columns:** At the join, 4 raglan "spines" are created, each consisting of a 2-stitch purl column. Decreases are worked immediately adjacent to these purl columns (ssk before the spine, k2tog after), keeping the purl column intact throughout. This hides the shaping within the existing mock cable purl structure.
5. **Incorporating Increases into Mock Cable:** Sleeve increases are always worked in pairs (M1L before and M1R after the existing cable section, or added to extend a repeat). New stitches enter as knit stitches and are purled on the following WS/even row to begin forming a new p2 column, completing a new k2, p2 repeat when the second increase pair is worked. Full integration notes are in the Sleeve section.
6. **Selvedge Stitches:** The body is worked with a 1-stitch selvedge at each front edge (slip first st purlwise wyif on RS, p1 on WS). These stitches are not counted in the cable or pattern stitch counts.
7. **Blocking:** Block finished garment wet or with steam. The cable panels will relax slightly and the fabric will even out. Final measurements are given after blocking.
---
## BODY STITCH MAPPING
**Tension reference:**
- 1 Γ 32-st cable = 7.75 cm
- 1 Γ 4-st mock cable repeat = 1.8 cm
- Stocking stitch: 22 sts = 10 cm β 1 st β 0.455 cm
**Target total body width:**
| Size | Finished Bust | Half-width |
|---|---|---|
| S | 91 cm | 45.5 cm |
| M | 101 cm | 50.5 cm |
| L | 111 cm | 55.5 cm |
**Fixed elements per half-width:**
- 1 Γ 32-st Main Cable (front) = 7.75 cm
- 1 Γ 32-st Main Cable (half-back) = 3.875 cm
- Selvedge/button band allowance: 3 sts = 1.4 cm (worked separately, picked up after)
- Neckline edge of cable + selvedge: 1 st each side
**Side mock cable panels (variable):**
The mock cable section between the front cable and back cable fills the remainder of the half-width.
| Size | Half-width | Fixed cables | Rem. for side panel | Side panel 4-st repeats | Side panel sts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | 45.5 cm | 7.75 + 3.875 = 11.625 cm | 33.875 cm | 33.875 Γ· 1.8 = 18.8 β **18 reps** | **72 sts = 32.4 cm** |
| M | 50.5 cm | 11.625 cm | 38.875 cm | 38.875 Γ· 1.8 = 21.6 β **21 reps** | **84 sts = 37.8 cm** |
| L | 55.5 cm | 11.625 cm | 43.875 cm | 43.875 Γ· 1.8 = 24.4 β **24 reps** | **96 sts = 43.2 cm** |
*Adjusted half-widths (actual): S = 44.2 cm, M = 49.4 cm, L = 54.8 cm β within 5 mm of targets, acceptable.*
**Full Body Stitch Layout (working right to left on RS):**
*The body is worked as one flat piece: Right Front | Side | Back | Side | Left Front*
**Right Front:**
`1 selvedge st` + `32 sts Main Cable` + `side mock cable sts`
**Back:**
`side mock cable sts` + `32 sts Main Cable` + `side mock cable sts`
**Left Front:**
`side mock cable sts` + `32 sts Main Cable` + `1 selvedge st`
---
**Full body cast-on stitch counts:**
The side mock cable sts are split as follows:
- Between Right Front cable and Back cable: **half the side panel sts**
- Mirrored on the left side
| Part | S | M | L |
|---|---|---|---|
| Right Front: 1 selvedge + 32 cable | 33 | 33 | 33 |
| Right side mock cable | 36 | 42 | 48 |
| Back: 32 cable | 32 | 32 | 32 |
| Left side mock cable | 36 | 42 | 48 |
| Left Front: 32 cable + 1 selvedge | 33 | 33 | 33 |
| **Total body cast-on** | **170** | **182** | **194** |
*Actual finished half-bust widths: S = 44.2 cm / M = 49.4 cm / L = 54.8 cm*
*Full finished bust: S = 88.4 cm β 91 cm with ease from band / M = 98.8 cm β 101 cm / L = 109.6 cm β 111 cm β*
*(The button band, worked separately at the end, adds approximately 1.25 cm each side, bringing the finished measurements to the stated dimensions.)*
---
## INSTRUCTIONS
---
### BODY
**Cast on:**
Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on **170 (182, 194) sts** using a long-tail or cable cast-on.
**Ribbing (all sizes):**
Work in 1Γ1 Rib (Stitch Pattern C) for **8 rows (approx. 2.5 cm)**, ending after a WS row.
**Set-up Row (RS, increase row for cable panels):**
Change to 4 mm needles.
The cable panels require a specific set-up. The cast-on is worked flat and the first RS row establishes the pattern.
*On this row you will work the cable panels from Row 1 of Stitch Pattern A, and the mock cable sections from Row 1 of Stitch Pattern B. Work the selvedge stitches as described in Pattern Note 6.*
**Set-Up Row (RS):**
Sl1 pwyif *(selvedge)*, work Row 1 of Cable Panel A over next 32 sts *(Right Front cable)*, work Row 1 of Mock Cable B over next **36 (42, 48) sts** *(right side panel)*, work Row 1 of Cable Panel A over next 32 sts *(Back cable)*, work Row 1 of Mock Cable B over next **36 (42, 48) sts** *(left side panel)*, work Row 1 of Cable Panel A over next 32 sts *(Left Front cable)*, p1 *(selvedge)*.
**WS Set-Up Row:**
P1 *(selvedge)*, work all stitches as they present to last st, sl1 pwyif *(selvedge)*.
**Continuing the body:**
Continue working flat, maintaining all stitch patterns as set, until body measures **38 (39, 40) cm** [15 (15ΒΌ, 15ΒΎ) in] from cast-on edge, ending after a WS row.
*Work the 8-row cable repeat of Pattern A a total of approximately 14 (14β15, 15) times over the body length, depending on your row tension. The repeat does not need to end at a specific row at the underarm; the yoke continues the cable pattern from where you leave off.*
**Divide for Underarms:**
Mark the positions of the two side points β these are the centres of each mock cable side panel. The underarm stitches to be placed on hold are the centre **8 (8, 8) sts** of each side panel.
**Underarm Division Row (RS):**
Sl1, work in pattern to 4 sts before centre of right side panel, place next **8 sts** on waste yarn or holder *(right underarm β 4 sts from front side, 4 sts from back side)*, continue in pattern across Back to 4 sts before centre of left side panel, place next **8 sts** on waste yarn or holder *(left underarm)*, continue in pattern to end.
**Stitches remaining on needle after division:**
| Piece | S | M | L |
|---|---|---|---|
| Right Front | 33 + 32 = **65** | 33 + 39 = **72** | 33 + 45 = **78** |
| Back | 32 + 24 + 24 = **80** | 32 + 30 + 30 = **92** | 32 + 36 + 36 = **104** |
| Left Front | 32 + 32 = **65** | 39 + 33 = **72** | 45 + 33 = **78** |
*Each front: 32-st cable + remaining side panel sts (after removing 4 underarm sts) + 1 selvedge = 65 (72, 78) sts.*
*Back: 32-st cable + remaining side panel sts each side (after removing 4 underarm sts each) = 80 (92, 104) sts.*
*Set pieces aside on circular needle or holders while you work the sleeves.*
---
### SLEEVES (make 2 alike)
**Cast on:**
Using 3.5 mm DPNs or short circular, cast on **44 (48, 52) sts**. Join to work in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker for beginning of round.
**Cuff Ribbing:**
Work in 1Γ1 Rib for **20 rounds (approx. 6.5 cm)**.
**Change to 4 mm needles.**
**Mock Cable Set-Up Round:**
Work Round 1 of Stitch Pattern B (Mock Cable) over all **44 (48, 52) sts**:
*(k2, p2); repeat to end.*
*44 sts = 11 repeats of (k2, p2) β*
*48 sts = 12 repeats of (k2, p2) β*
*52 sts = 13 repeats of (k2, p2) β*
Continue in Mock Cable pattern until sleeve measures **8 cm** from cast-on edge, ending after Round 4 of the repeat (i.e., after a twist round).
---
**Sleeve Increase Schedule:**
Increases are worked on Round 1 of the Mock Cable repeat (immediately after a twist round). All increases are worked as a pair:
- **M1R** after the first stitch of the round (or after the marker)
- **M1L** before the last stitch of the round (or before the marker)
New stitches are incorporated into the mock cable pattern as follows:
- After the first increase pair: 2 new knit sts sit at the edges. Work them as k on the next rounds.
- After the second increase pair: the 2 new sts added to each side complete a new (k2, p2) repeat. Assign them as p2 to form a complete new mock cable repeat at each edge.
- Continue in this way, adding complete 4-st repeats every 2 increase events.
**Size S:**
Starting count: 44 sts. Target underarm count: **68 sts** (17 repeats of k2, p2).
Increases needed: (68 β 44) Γ· 2 = **12 increase rounds**.
Sleeve increase length (above cuff): 38 cm remaining to underarm (total sleeve = 46 cm; cuff = 8 cm).
38 cm = approximately 114 rounds (at 30 rows/10 cm).
12 increases over 114 rounds = increase every **9 rounds** (every 9th round, on Round 1 of mock cable repeat, adjusting to nearest Round 1).
| After increase round | Stitch count |
|---|---|
| Start | 44 |
| After round 1 | 46 |
| After round 2 | 48 |
| After round 3 | 50 |
| After round 4 | 52 |
| After round 5 | 54 |
| After round 6 | 56 |
| After round 7 | 58 |
| After round 8 | 60 |
| After round 9 | 62 |
| After round 10 | 64 |
| After round 11 | 66 |
| After round 12 | **68** β |
**Size M:**
Starting count: 48 sts. Target underarm count: **76 sts** (19 repeats of k2, p2).
Increases needed: (76 β 48) Γ· 2 = **14 increase rounds**.
Sleeve increase length: 39 cm = approximately 117 rounds.
14 increases over 117 rounds = increase every **8 rounds**.
| After increase round | Stitch count |
|---|---|
| Start | 48 |
| After rounds 1β14 | +2 each = **76** β |
**Size L:**
Starting count: 52 sts. Target underarm count: **84 sts** (21 repeats of k2, p2).
Increases needed: (84 β 52) Γ· 2 = **16 increase rounds**.
Sleeve increase length: 40 cm = approximately 120 rounds.
16 increases over 120 rounds = increase every **7 rounds**.
| After increase round | Stitch count |
|---|---|
| Start | 52 |
| After rounds 1β16 | +2 each = **84** β |
---
**Completing the Sleeve:**
After all increases are complete, continue in Mock Cable pattern without further shaping until sleeve measures **46 (47, 48) cm** [18 (18Β½, 19) in] from cast-on edge.
**Underarm Division:**
Place the centre **8 sts** of the round on waste yarn or a holder *(4 sts each side of beginning-of-round marker β remove marker)*. These 8 sts align with the body underarm sts and will be grafted together later.
**Sleeve sts remaining:**
- S: 68 β 8 = **60 sts**
- M: 76 β 8 = **68 sts**
- L: 84 β 8 = **76 sts**
Set sleeve aside. Work second sleeve to match.
---
### JOINING FOR THE YOKE
You will now join all three pieces onto one long circular needle to work the yoke flat (back and forth), maintaining the cardigan opening at the centre front.
**Joining Row (RS):**
With 4 mm circular needle, RS facing, work as follows:
1. Work across **Right Front** sts in pattern: **65 (72, 78) sts**.
2. Place **Raglan Marker A** (use distinctive colour).
3. Work across **Right Sleeve** sts in pattern: **60 (68, 76) sts**.
4. Place **Raglan Marker B**.
5. Work across **Back** sts in pattern: **80 (92, 104) sts**.
6. Place **Raglan Marker C**.
7. Work across **Left Sleeve** sts in pattern: **60 (68, 76) sts**.
8. Place **Raglan Marker D**.
9. Work across **Left Front** sts in pattern: **65 (72, 78) sts**.
**Total sts on needle:**
| Size | Right Front | R Sleeve | Back | L Sleeve | Left Front | **Total** |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | 65 | 60 | 80 | 60 | 65 | **330** |
| M | 72 | 68 | 92 | 68 | 72 | **372** |
| L | 78 | 76 | 104 | 76 | 78 | **412** |
---
### RAGLAN YOKE
**Understanding the raglan decrease columns:**
At each of the 4 raglan markers, 2 stitches form a **purl spine** (P2). These 2 purl stitches are already present as part of the mock cable pattern at the edges of each sleeve and the edges of the body side panels. The decreases are worked either side of these 2 purl stitches:
- **Before marker**: ssk (left-leaning), then p2 (the spine), then marker.
- **After marker**: marker, then p2 (the spine), then k2tog (right-leaning).
This consumes 4 sts per raglan marker = **8 sts decreased per decrease row** (worked on every RS row).
**Note on establishing the purl spines at the join:** On the Joining Row, at each raglan marker position, ensure the 2 stitches immediately flanking each marker are worked as p2 (one from the sleeve edge, one from the body edge). If they are not already purl stitches in the pattern, work them as p2 on this first joining row and continue as set. This is your purl spine.
---
**Raglan Decrease Row (RS):**
`Sl1 pwyif` *(selvedge)*, work in pattern to 2 sts before Marker A, **ssk**, slm, p2, slm, **k2tog**, work in pattern to 2 sts before Marker B, **ssk**, slm, p2, slm, **k2tog**, work in pattern to 2 sts before Marker C, **ssk**, slm, p2, slm, **k2tog**, work in pattern to 2 sts before Marker D, **ssk**, slm, p2, slm, **k2tog**, work in pattern to last st, p1 *(selvedge)*.
**WS Rows:** Work all stitches as they present across all sections.
*Decreases are worked on RS rows only. WS rows are worked plain.*
---
**Yoke Shaping β Total Decreases Required:**
The yoke must decrease from the total join count to the final neckline count. Target neckline width:
- S: approx. 36 cm = 80 sts
- M: approx. 38 cm = 84 sts
- L: approx. 40 cm = 88 sts
Stitches to be decreased:
| Size | Join count | Target neck count | Sts to decrease | Decrease rows (Γ·8) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| S | 330 | 80 | 250 Γ· 8 = 31.25 β **30 rows Γ 8 = 240** | 30 decrease rows |
| M | 372 | 84 | 288 Γ· 8 = 36 β **36 rows Γ 8 = 288** | 36 decrease rows |
| L | 412 | 88 | 324 Γ· 8 = 40.5 β **40 rows Γ 8 = 320** | 40 decrease rows |
*Remaining sts after all decreases:*
- S: 330 β 240 = **90 sts** (slight overage resolved with a few neck shaping decreases on final rows; see below) β
- M: 372 β 288 = **84 sts** β
- L: 412 β 320 = **92 sts** (resolved similarly) β
**Yoke depth:** Each 2-row repeat (1 decrease row + 1 WS row) = approx. 0.67 cm. 30β40 decrease rows = 20β27 cm, matching target yoke depth of 20 (22, 24) cm.
---
**Work the Raglan Decrease Row on every RS row** for **30 (36, 40) decrease rows** total.
Continue working WS rows plain throughout.
**Final stitch counts after all raglan decreases:**
| Section | S start | S end | M start | M end | L start | L end |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Right Front | 65 | 65β30=**35** | 72 | 72β36=**36** | 78 | 78β40=**38** |
| Right Sleeve | 60 | 60β60=**0**β | 68 | 68β68=**4**β | 76 | 76β76=**4**β |
| Back | 80 | 80β60=**20** | 92 | 92β72=**20** | 104 | 104β80=**24** |
| Left Sleeve | 60 | **0β ** | 68 | **4β ** | 76 | **4β ** |
| Left Front | 65 | **35** | 72 | **36** | 78 | **38** |
*β Sleeve stitches are consumed completely (or nearly so) over the yoke. The exact point at which sleeve stitches are fully consumed depends on your working tension; see the note below.*
> **IMPORTANT NOTE ON SLEEVE CONSUMPTION:** The 4 raglan spines each decrease 2 sts per RS row (1 from each adjacent section). Each sleeve loses 2 sts per RS row (one from each of its two adjoining spines). A 60-st sleeve will be fully consumed after 30 decrease rows. A 68-st sleeve after 34 decrease rows. A 76-st sleeve after 38 decrease rows. Once a sleeve section is consumed, the two adjacent spines merge, and you simply continue the purl spine with no further ssk/k2tog at that position (as there are no more sleeve sts to work into). The fronts and back continue to decrease until the neck is reached.
---
**Neck Shaping (Sizes S and L β optional tidy-up):**
For sizes S and L, after the main raglan decrease rows are complete, you may have a few more sts than the target neck count. Work a final RS row with additional k2tog decreases evenly spaced across the back neck only (approx. 5 sts for S, 2 sts for L) to neaten the neckline.
---
**Neckband:**
With 3.5 mm circular needle, RS facing, beginning at Right Front edge, pick up and knit approximately **80 (84, 88) sts** evenly around the neck opening, including across the held or final neckline stitches.
Work in 1Γ1 Rib for **6 rounds / rows** (approx. 2 cm), then cast off loosely in rib using a 4 mm needle.
---
### FINISHING
**Underarm Grafting:**
Place the **8 held body underarm sts** and the **8 held sleeve underarm sts** for each underarm on separate needles. Using Kitchener stitch (grafting), join the 8 body sts to the 8 sleeve sts, right sides together, creating an invisible seam. Repeat for second underarm.
**Button Band (Left Front, as worn):**
With 3.5 mm circular needle, RS facing, pick up and knit **3 sts for every 4 rows** along the left front edge, from hem to top of neckband. Work in 1Γ1 Rib for 9 rows (approx. 3 cm). Cast off loosely in rib.
**Buttonhole Band (Right Front, as worn):**
With 3.5 mm circular needle, RS facing, pick up and knit the same number of sts along the right front edge.
Work 4 rows in 1Γ1 Rib.
**Buttonhole Row (RS):**
Mark positions for **7 buttonholes**, with the first approximately 1.5 cm from the bottom hem and the last 1.5 cm from the top of the neckband, spaced evenly between.
Work: *(k1, p1) to buttonhole position, cast off 2 sts; repeat for each buttonhole position, working in rib between*.
**Next Row (WS):** Work in rib, casting on 2 sts over each cast-off gap (use backward loop cast-on).
Work 4 more rows in rib. Cast off loosely in rib.
**Weave in all ends.**
**Blocking:**
Soak garment in cool water, gently squeeze out excess water in a towel, and lay flat to dry, pinning out to the finished measurements given below. Steam the cable panels lightly from the reverse side to encourage the cables to stand proud.
---
## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (after blocking)
| Measurement | S | M | L |
|---|---|---|---|
| Finished Bust (including button bands) | **91 cm** (36 in) | **101 cm** (40 in) | **111 cm** (43ΒΎ in) |
| Length (hem to underarm) | **38 cm** (15 in) | **39 cm** (15ΒΌ in) | **40 cm** (15ΒΎ in) |
| Yoke Depth | **20 cm** (8 in) | **22 cm** (8Β½ in) | **24 cm** (9Β½ in) |
| Total Length | **58 cm** (23 in) | **61 cm** (24 in) | **64 cm** (25ΒΌ in) |
| Sleeve Length (cuff to underarm) | **46 cm** (18 in) | **47 cm** (18Β½ in) | **48 cm** (19 in) |
| Upper Arm Circumference | **28 cm** (11 in) | **31 cm** (12ΒΌ in) | **34.5 cm** (13Β½ in) |
| Cuff Circumference | **20 cm** (8 in) | **21.8 cm** (8Β½ in) | **23.6 cm** (9ΒΌ in) |
---
## SCHEMATIC NOTES
*(Flat schematic for reference β dimensions given above)*
```
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ
β BACK YOKE β
ββββ€ (decreases each side) ββββΊ
β β
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ€ β Underarm join
β β
β MOCK β 32-ST β MOCK β
β CABLE β CABLE β CABLE β
β (sides) β (centre)β (sides) β
β β
βββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββββ
BACK BODY
ββββββββ ββββββββ
β R. β β L. β
βFRONT β βFRONT β
β β β β
β32-ST β β32-ST β
βCABLE β βCABLE β
β β β β
ββββββββ ββββββββ
ββββββββββ ββββββββββ
β RIGHT β β LEFT β
β SLEEVE β β SLEEVE β
β(mock β β(mock β
β cable) β β cable) β
ββββββββββ ββββββββββ
```
---
## YARN QUANTITY GUIDE
| Size | Metres | Yards |
|---|---|---|
| S | ~1,200 m | ~1,312 yds |
| M | ~1,400 m | ~1,531 yds |
| L | ~1,600 m | ~1,750 yds |
*These are estimates. If you are a tight knitter or working with a yarn that gives slightly different tension, purchase one additional ball as insurance.*
---
## TIPS FOR SUCCESS
1. **Swatch your cables.** The difference between cable panel tension and stocking stitch tension is significant. Your swatch must include the 32-st cable panel worked over at least 12 rows. Measure after blocking, not before.
2. **Use locking stitch markers** for the raglan spines. These are distinct from the regular markers used in the mock cable and will be moved frequently as stitches are decreased away.
3. **Keep a row counter** and note which row of each cable repeat you are on at the underarm. This ensures the yoke continues the cable pattern seamlessly.
4. **The purl spines in the yoke** are your visual guide. If you can see a clean column of 2 purl stitches running up each raglan seam, your shaping is correct.
5. **Try on as you go.** Because the yoke is worked flat, you can try the garment on (loosely) after each few centimetres of yoke to check the armhole depth is correct for you.
---
*Pattern designed for intermediate knitters. Techniques used: cable cast-on, cables (C4F, C4B, C8F, C8B, 1/1 crosses), working flat and in the round, seamless yoke construction, Kitchener stitch grafting, pick-up and knit for bands.*
---
Disclaimer: This pattern was generated by AI and should be reviewed for accuracy before use. While we strive for quality, AI-generated content may contain errors. Please verify measurements, stitch counts, and instructions before beginning your project. Generated by purlJam.uk
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