purlJam

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# HEATHER'S ISLE CROPPED CARDIGAN
### An Aran-Inspired Top-Down Raglan in Ivory Wool

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## AT A GLANCE

| | |
|---|---|
| **Construction** | Seamless top-down raglan, worked flat |
| **Weight** | Worsted / Aran |
| **Needle Size** | 5 mm (US 8) primary; 4.5 mm (US 7) for ribbing |
| **Finished Bust** | Approx. 86 cm (34 in) — see sizing notes |
| **Finished Length** | Approx. 43 cm (17 in) from back neck to hem |
| **Difficulty** | Intermediate |

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## SIZING NOTES

This pattern is written for one size with a finished bust of approximately **86 cm (34 in)** and is designed for a fitted, cropped silhouette with 0–5 cm (0–2 in) of positive ease. To adjust the bust size, add or remove cable repeats (each repeat adds/removes 10 stitches = approx. 5.5 cm / 2¼ in). See **Customising Your Size** at the end of the pattern.

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## MATERIALS

- **Yarn**: Approx. **900–1,000 m (985–1,095 yds)** of worsted-weight wool or wool-blend in ivory/cream.
  *Suggested yarn: Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian Highland Wool, 200 m / 220 yds per 100 g skein) — approx. 5 skeins. Alternatively: Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran or Lion Brand Fishermen's Wool.*
- **Needles**:
  - 5 mm (US 8) circular needle, 80 cm (32 in) or longer
  - 4.5 mm (US 7) circular needle, 80 cm (32 in) or longer
  - 2 spare circular needles or stitch holders for sleeves
- **Notions**:
  - 5 large dark-brown buttons, approx. 25–28 mm (1 in) diameter
  - Stitch markers (at least 8, 4 of a contrasting colour for raglan markers)
  - Cable needle
  - Tapestry needle
  - Scissors
  - Measuring tape

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## TENSION (GAUGE)

**18 stitches × 24 rows = 10 cm (4 in) in stocking stitch on 5 mm needles, blocked.**

**Cable panel tension**: The 8-stitch cable panel (worked over 10 stitches including flanking reverse stocking stitch) measures approximately **4.5 cm (1¾ in)** wide when blocked.

*Please swatch carefully. Cable fabric pulls in horizontally. Block your swatch before measuring.*

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| **k** | knit |
| **p** | purl |
| **st(s)** | stitch(es) |
| **RS** | right side |
| **WS** | wrong side |
| **CO** | cast on |
| **BO** | bind off (cast off) |
| **pm** | place marker |
| **sm** | slip marker |
| **rm** | remove marker |
| **M1R** | make 1 right: lift bar between sts from back to front, knit through front loop |
| **M1L** | make 1 left: lift bar between sts from front to back, knit through back loop |
| **k2tog** | knit 2 stitches together (right-leaning decrease) |
| **ssk** | slip 2 sts knitwise one at a time, return to left needle, knit together through back loops (left-leaning decrease) |
| **yo** | yarn over |
| **rev-st-st** | reverse stocking stitch (purl on RS, knit on WS) |
| **CN** | cable needle |
| **C8F** | cable 8 front (see Special Techniques) |
| **C8B** | cable 8 back (see Special Techniques) |
| **rep** | repeat |
| **beg** | beginning |
| **rem** | remaining |
| **RS** | right side |
| **WS** | wrong side |

---

## SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

### C8F (Cable 8 Front — Left-Leaning Cable)
Slip 4 stitches to cable needle and hold **in front** of work. Knit the next 4 stitches from the left needle, then knit the 4 stitches from the cable needle. *(Creates a left-twisting cable.)*

### C8B (Cable 8 Back — Right-Leaning Cable)
Slip 4 stitches to cable needle and hold **behind** work. Knit the next 4 stitches from the left needle, then knit the 4 stitches from the cable needle. *(Creates a right-twisting cable.)*

### Braided Cable Effect
By alternating C8F and C8B cables side-by-side across the fabric with 2-stitch columns of reverse stocking stitch between them, a traditional Aran braided rope effect is achieved. The cables cross every **8 rows**.

### Lifted M1 Increases for Raglan
All raglan increases are worked as M1R and M1L immediately outside the raglan markers (i.e., one increase on each side of each marker). This creates a clean, lean line.

### German Twisted Cast-On (Recommended for Neck Edge)
Provides a firm, elastic edge. May substitute any long-tail or cable cast-on if preferred.

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## CABLE CHART

The following chart represents **one cable repeat** = 10 stitches wide × 16 rows tall (two cable crossings).

**Reading the chart**: RS rows are read right to left; WS rows are read left to right.

```
CABLE CHART — 10-stitch repeat (8-st cable + 2-st rev-st-st separator)
Rows are numbered on the right (RS rows odd, WS rows even).

     10  9  8  7  6  5  4  3  2  1    ← Stitch numbers (RS read right to left)
      ┌──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┬──┐
 16   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  WS
 15   │ ·│ ·│ ╔══════╗ │ │ ·│ ·│  RS  ← C8F on sts 3–10 (right-most cable in repeat)
 14   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  WS
 13   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  RS
 12   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  WS
 11   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  RS
 10   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  WS
  9   │ ·│ ·│ ╚══════╝ │ │ ·│ ·│  RS  ← C8B on sts 3–10
  8   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  WS
  7   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  RS
  6   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  WS
  5   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  RS
  4   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  WS
  3   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  RS
  2   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  WS
  1   │ ·│ ·│ │ │ │ │ │ │ ·│ ·│  RS  ← Set-up row
      └──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┴──┘
       1  2  3  4  5  6  7  8  9  10
       ·  ·  k  k  k  k  k  k  ·  ·

CHART KEY:
  │ │  = Knit on RS / Purl on WS (stocking stitch, used for cable sts)
  · ·  = Purl on RS / Knit on WS (reverse stocking stitch, separator columns)
  ╔══╗  = C8F: sl 4 to CN, hold FRONT, k4, k4 from CN
  ╚══╝  = C8B: sl 4 to CN, hold BACK, k4, k4 from CN
```

### Written Cable Repeat Instructions (10-stitch repeat)

**Row 1 (RS — Set-up):** P2, k8.
**Row 2 (WS):** P8, k2.
**Rows 3–8:** Rep Rows 1–2 three more times (3 times total for rows 3–8). *(6 plain rows — 8 plain rows from set-up before first cross.)*

> **Note**: Work 8 plain rows before the first cable crossing, then cross every 8 rows thereafter.

**Row 9 (RS — Cross Row 1, C8B):** P2, C8B.
**Row 10 (WS):** P8, k2.
**Rows 11–16:** Rep Rows 1–2 three times.
**Row 17 (RS — Cross Row 2, C8F):** P2, C8F.
**Row 18 (WS):** P8, k2.
**Rows 19–24:** Rep Rows 1–2 three times.

*The 16-row sequence (C8B on Row 9, C8F on Row 17) forms one complete braid cycle. Repeat this 16-row cycle for the full body length.*

---

## PATTERN NOTES

1. The cardigan is worked **flat** (back and forth) from the top down, as the button band opening runs the full length of the centre front.
2. **Button band stitches** (5 stitches each side in 1×1 rib) are **cast on at the beginning and maintained throughout** — they are not picked up separately at the end. This creates a tidy integrated band.
3. **Raglan markers**: Use 4 distinctly coloured markers to denote the 4 raglan seam lines. 4 additional markers are used to separate the button band stitches from the body.
4. **Yoke cable set-up**: Cables are established on the body only, beginning when the body is separated from the sleeves. The yoke is worked in a simple seed or textured stitch to keep shaping rows clean. This is standard practice for top-down Aran cardigans.
5. All measurements given are after blocking.

---

## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

1. Cast on neck stitches with integrated button bands.
2. Work yoke flat with raglan increases on every RS row (and some WS rows for speed — optional).
3. Separate sleeves onto holders; cast on underarm stitches.
4. Work body flat in all-over cable pattern until desired length.
5. Work cinched 1×1 ribbed hem on smaller needle.
6. Work sleeves in the round on smaller needle, finish with ribbed cuff.
7. Weave in ends, block, sew on buttons.

---

## PATTERN

### SECTION 1: CAST ON & NECK SET-UP

Using **4.5 mm** circular needle and **long-tail cast-on**:

**CO 72 stitches** as follows:

*Set-up the cast-on structure from right to left (as you'll knit on the first RS row):*

- 5 sts (right button band)
- 1 st (right front body)
- Place raglan marker A (PM-A)
- 6 sts (right sleeve)
- Place raglan marker B (PM-B)
- 28 sts (back)
- Place raglan marker C (PM-C)
- 6 sts (left sleeve)
- Place raglan marker D (PM-D)
- 1 st (left front body)
- 5 sts (left button band)

> **Stitch count check**: 5 + 1 + 6 + 28 + 6 + 1 + 5 = **72 sts** ✓

**Place additional markers** to separate button bands from body stitches:
- After the 5th stitch on the right edge: PM (call this Marker R-Band)
- Before the last 5 stitches on the left edge: PM (call this Marker L-Band)

---

### SECTION 2: YOKE — NECK BAND

**Change to 5 mm needles.**

**Set-up Row (WS):** Work first 5 sts in 1×1 rib as *(k1, p1) twice, k1*, sm, purl to last 5 sts, sm, work last 5 sts in 1×1 rib as *(k1, p1) twice, k1*.

*The 5-stitch button bands are always worked in 1×1 rib (k1, p1) throughout. The rib should begin and end with k1 for a clean edge. Keep these sts as set throughout the entire pattern.*

---

### SECTION 3: YOKE — RAGLAN INCREASES

The yoke is worked in **seed stitch** on the body/sleeve stitches between raglan markers. This provides texture without interfering with the cable set-up that begins at the body.

**Seed Stitch** (worked flat over any number of sts):
- RS: *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
- WS: *k1, p1; rep from * to end.
*(Always work the opposite of the stitch below.)*

**Raglan Increase Row (RS):** (Worked every RS row)
Work band sts in rib, sm, **M1R**, work in seed st to PM-A, **sm, M1L, work sleeve sts, M1R, sm**, work back sts, **sm, M1L, work sleeve sts, M1R, sm**, work to last band marker, **M1L**, sm, work band sts in rib.

*This adds 8 stitches on every RS row — 1 st each side of each of the 4 raglan markers.*

**WS Rows (non-increase rows):** Work all stitches as set (band sts in rib, all other sts in seed st), slipping all markers.

**Work the Raglan Increase Row every RS row for 22 RS rows (= 44 rows total including WS rows).**

*After 22 increase rows:*
- Each section increases by: 22 sts each sleeve side × 2 = +44 sts per sleeve; +44 sts back; +22 each front body.
- Right front body: 1 + 22 = **23 sts**
- Right sleeve: 6 + 44 = **50 sts**
- Back: 28 + 44 = **72 sts**
- Left sleeve: 6 + 44 = **50 sts**
- Left front body: 1 + 22 = **23 sts**
- Button bands: 5 each side (unchanged)
- **Total: 5 + 23 + 50 + 72 + 50 + 23 + 5 = 228 sts** ✓

*(Raglan markers account for 0 sts; they are reference points only.)*

---

### SECTION 4: UNDERARM SEPARATION

**Next RS Row (Separation Row):**
Work as follows:
1. Work 5 sts band, sm, work 23 right front sts (seed st), remove PM-A.
2. **Place 50 right sleeve sts on holder or spare circular needle.** Remove PM-B.
3. **CO 4 sts using backward loop** (for underarm), pm (underarm marker), CO 4 more sts.
4. Work 72 back sts (seed st), remove PM-C.
5. **Place 50 left sleeve sts on holder or spare circular needle.** Remove PM-D.
6. **CO 4 sts using backward loop**, pm (underarm marker), CO 4 more sts.
7. Work 23 left front sts, sm, work 5 sts band.

*Total CO at underarms: 8 sts × 2 = 16 new sts.*

**Body stitch count:**
- Right band: 5
- Right front: 23
- Right underarm CO: 8
- Back: 72
- Left underarm CO: 8
- Left front: 23
- Left band: 5
- **Total: 5 + 23 + 8 + 72 + 8 + 23 + 5 = 144 sts** ✓

*(Cable field = 144 − 10 band sts = 134 sts. Adjusted: 13 cable repeats of 10 = 130 sts, with 2 extra sts each side worked as rev-st-st = 134 sts. See Body Set-Up Row below.)*

---

### SECTION 5: BODY — CABLE PATTERN SET-UP

On the following WS row, arrange the body stitches into the cable pattern.

**Body WS Set-Up Row:**
Work 5 sts right band in rib, *p2 (rev-st-st on RS = purl on WS), k8 (cable column); rep from * 13 times across body stitches, ending with p2, work 5 sts left band in rib.

> **Stitch count check for cable field**: 13 repeats × 10 sts = 130 sts. Plus 2 extra sts at each end of cable field (inside band sts) worked as rev-st-st separators = 130 + 2 + 2 = 134 sts. 134 + 5 + 5 = **144 sts** ✓

From this point, the **body cable pattern** is as follows:

**Body RS Row (Cable Row):**
Work 5 sts in 1×1 rib (band), p2 (rev-st-st edge), *p2, [k8 or cable cross as per chart position]; rep from * 12 more times, p2, p2 (rev-st-st edge), work 5 sts in 1×1 rib (band).

> **Simplified Body Row Summary:**
> - Band (5 sts, rib) | Rev-st-st (2 sts) | [p2, k8] × 13 | Rev-st-st (2 sts) | Band (5 sts, rib)

**Body WS Row:**
Work 5 sts in 1×1 rib (band), k2, *k2, p8; rep from * 12 more times, k2, k2, work 5 sts in 1×1 rib (band).

**Cable Crossing Schedule:**
- **Row 9 of body** (RS): Work all cable sts as **C8B**.
- **Row 17 of body** (RS): Work all cable sts as **C8F**.
- Continue alternating C8B and C8F every 8 rows.

*(For a braided look, cables can also be offset — work even-numbered cable panels as C8F and odd-numbered panels as C8B on the same row, reversing on the next crossing row. This creates the classic Aran braid. See **Braided Variation** note below.)*

---

#### BRAIDED VARIATION (Recommended for Traditional Aran Look)

To achieve the interleaved braid effect, on every cable crossing row, alternate the direction:

**Cable Crossing Row A (RS):** P2, [*C8B, p2, C8F, p2; rep from * to last 8 sts of cable field, C8B*], p2. *(Odd-positioned cables go back; even-positioned cables go front.)*

**Cable Crossing Row B (RS, 8 rows later):** P2, [*C8F, p2, C8B, p2; rep from * to last 8 sts of cable field, C8F*], p2. *(Reverse directions.)*

*This alternation creates the visual impression that the cable ropes weave over and under each other — the hallmark of Aran braiding.*

---

### SECTION 6: BODY LENGTH

**Work the body in cable pattern until piece measures approximately 36 cm (14 in) from underarm**, ending with a WS row.

*Cropped length check: 36 cm (14 in) body + 5 cm (2 in) ribbed hem = 41 cm (16 in) total from underarm. Back neck to underarm approx. 23 cm (9 in) yoke = approx. 64 cm (25 in) total length from back neck. This is a classic cropped length sitting at or above the natural waist.*

**Buttonhole Placement (worked in right button band during body):**
You will work 5 buttonholes evenly spaced across the body length. With the body measuring approx. 36 cm (14 in) = approx. 88 rows, place buttonholes roughly every **17–18 rows**.

**Suggested buttonhole rows**: Rows 5, 23, 41, 59, 77 (RS rows).

**Buttonhole Row (RS):** Work 2 sts in rib, BO 2 sts, work 1 st in rib (completing right band), continue in pattern as set.

**Following WS Row:** Work to buttonhole gap, CO 2 sts using backward loop, continue in pattern.

*This creates a 2-stitch one-row buttonhole, suitable for 25–28 mm (1 in) buttons.*

---

### SECTION 7: CINCHED RIBBED HEM

The hem is worked on **fewer stitches** and on **smaller needles** to create the cinched, fitted look at the lower edge.

**Hem Set-Up Row (WS — decrease row):**
Change to **4.5 mm needles**.

Work across the row, decreasing evenly across the cable field only (not the band sts):

Work 5 sts band, then across cable field (134 sts): k2tog approximately every 10th stitch = **13 decreases** across cable field. Work 5 sts band.

*Cable field after decreases: 134 − 13 = 121 sts. Total: 5 + 121 + 5 = 131 sts.*

> Alternatively, work k2tog at every cable column joining point (between the last stitch of one cable and the rev-st-st of the next). This is more instinctive during knitting and also yields 13 decreases.

**Hem Rib:**
Work **1×1 rib** *(k1, p1; rep to end, ending k1)* for **5 cm (2 in)** (approximately 14 rows).

**Cast off** all stitches loosely in rib pattern using a stretchy cast-off. *(Recommended: use a needle one size larger for the cast-off row, or use the Russian/Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy cast-off.)*

---

### SECTION 8: SLEEVES

The sleeves are worked **in the round** on 5 mm DPNs or a short circular needle (or use the magic loop method).

**Pick up for underarm:** Return 50 held sleeve sts to 5 mm needle. With RS facing and beg at centre of underarm CO stitches, pick up and knit 4 sts from the underarm cast-on, knit across 50 sleeve sts, pick up and knit 4 sts from remaining underarm CO, pm for BOR.

**Total sleeve sts: 50 + 8 = 58 sts.** ✓

**Sleeve Body (worked in the round):**
The sleeves are worked in **reverse stocking stitch** (purl every round) to complement the cable body texture and keep the construction straightforward.

*Alternatively, work a single central cable on each sleeve (C8F/C8B on centre 8 sts, reverse st-st either side) for a more decorative sleeve. Instructions follow.*

#### Option A: Plain Sleeve (Reverse Stocking Stitch)
Purl every round until sleeve measures **30 cm (12 in)** from underarm, or desired length to cuff.

#### Option B: Central Cable Sleeve (Decorative)
**Set-up Round:** P25, pm, k8, pm, p25.
**Cable Round (every 8th round):** P25, sm, C8B (or C8F), sm, p25.
**All other rounds:** P25, sm, k8, sm, p25.
Work until sleeve measures **30 cm (12 in)** from underarm, or desired length.

#### Sleeve Taper (Optional):
Work 2 decrease rounds (k2tog after first st, ssk before last st) at BOR, spaced 5 cm (2 in) apart, to taper sleeve slightly. Reduce by 4 sts total.

**Cuff:**
Change to **4.5 mm needles**. Work 1×1 rib *(k1, p1; rep to end)* for **5 cm (2 in)**. Cast off loosely in rib.

---

### SECTION 9: FINISHING

**Weave in all ends** on WS using tapestry needle, following yarn path of stitches.

**Block the cardigan:**
- Wet block (recommended for wool): Soak in cool water for 20 minutes, gently squeeze out water (do not wring), lay flat on blocking mats, pin to measurements, and leave to dry completely (24–48 hours).
- Steam blocking may be used on the cable sections to open them up. Do not press cables flat — hover the steam iron above the fabric.

**Sew buttons:**
Mark positions on the left button band corresponding to the buttonholes on the right band. Sew 5 large dark-brown buttons using a length of yarn or matching thread. Use a shank or small backing button on the WS if the fabric is heavy.

---

## CUSTOMISING YOUR SIZE

| To adjust bust width | Add/remove cable repeats |
|---|---|
| +1 repeat (10 sts, ~5.5 cm / 2¼ in each side) | Larger size |
| −1 repeat each side | Smaller size |
| Adjust neck CO accordingly | Add/remove 20 sts from back neck (10 each side) |

**Length adjustments**: Work more or fewer rows between underarm and hem. Each 4 rows adds/removes approx. 1.5 cm (⅝ in).

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## YARN ALTERNATIVES

| Yarn | Weight | Content | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cascade 220 | Worsted | 100% Wool | Excellent stitch definition |
| Paintbox Simply Aran | Aran | 100% Acrylic | Budget-friendly, good drape |
| Malabrigo Rios | Worsted | 100% Merino | Luxurious; may need needle adjustment |
| Drops Alaska | Aran | 100% Wool | Great value, firm stitch definition |

*If substituting, always check tension (gauge) carefully. Cable fabric is denser than plain stocking stitch.*

---

## SCHEMATIC

```
BACK BODY                   SLEEVE
┌─────────────────────┐    ┌──────────┐
│                     │    │          │
│ 48 cm (19 in) wide  │    │  ~22 cm  │
│                     │    │  (8½ in) │
│ 41 cm (16 in)       │    │  at cap  │
│ body+hem length     │    │          │
│                     │    │          │
└─────────────────────┘    └──────────┘
                           Cuff: ~18 cm (7 in)

YOKE:
Back neck width: ~17 cm (6¾ in)
Yoke depth: ~22 cm (8½ in)
Total length back neck to hem: ~63 cm (25 in)
```

---

## QUICK REFERENCE — CABLE CROSSING SCHEDULE

| Body Row | Action |
|---|---|
| Row 1–8 | Plain (no crossing) |
| Row 9 | C8B on all cable sts (or alternate C8B/C8F for braid) |
| Row 10–16 | Plain |
| Row 17 | C8F on all cable sts (or reverse alternate for braid) |
| Row 18–24 | Plain |
| Row 25 | C8B (rep from Row 9) |
| …and so on | Alternate every 8 rows |

---

*Pattern design © Heather's Isle Collection. For personal use only. Not for resale.*

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