purlJam

# HoodTee
### A modern hooded T-shirt — knitted hoodie meets T-shirt

The HoodTee is a relaxed hybrid garment worked seamlessly from the top down with raglan increases. The hood flows directly into the yoke and body, while a broad ribbed hem and neat cuffs give it a finished, contemporary look. It's an ideal layering piece for cooler days — and a friendly project for confident beginners.

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## Sizes

| Size | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
|------|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| **Bust width of garment (cm)** | 85 | 90 | 95 | 100 | 105 | 110 | 115 |
| **Full length (cm)** | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 56 | 57 | 57 |

Throughout the pattern, sizes are written as: **1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7**.
Where a single number appears, it applies to all sizes.

**Fit:** The HoodTee has a close fit with approximately **5 cm of positive ease**. If your bust measures 90 cm, knit the **95 cm** size. For an oversized look choose a larger size; for a snugger fit, go down a size.

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## Tension (Gauge)

**13 stitches = 10 cm** in stocking stitch (st st) on **5.5 mm** needles, using yarn held **double**.
Tension is measured **after blocking**. If your tension does not match, change your needle size.

> 💡 Beginner tip: knit a generous tension swatch (at least 15 × 15 cm), block it, then measure. This single step prevents most sizing surprises.

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## Needles

- **5.5 mm** circular needles (40 cm and 60/80/100 cm) — for hood, yoke and body
- **4.5 mm** circular needles (40 cm and 60/80/100 cm) — for all ribbing

(Use the longer cable lengths as the body grows; the 40 cm cables for the hood and sleeves.)

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## Yarn

Worsted-weight yarn held **double** (two strands together). Choose one of:

- Approx. **300 (300) 300 (350) 350 (400) 450 g** Faerytale / Faerytale Upcycle (50 g = 175 m), **or**
- Approx. **350 (350) 350 (400) 450 (450) 500 g** Drops Air (50 g = 150 m)

Or any yarn that achieves the stated tension when held double. Yarn amounts vary with yardage and tension.

> 💡 Choose a soft fibre — the hood sits close to the face and neck. Merino, alpaca and soft blends are ideal; avoid scratchy or itchy fibres.

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## Notions

- 4 stitch markers (for raglan lines) + 1 distinct marker (beginning of round)
- 2 spare cables or scrap yarn (to hold sleeve stitches)
- Tapestry needle
- Tape measure

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## Abbreviations (UK)

| Abbr. | Meaning |
|-------|---------|
| k | knit |
| p | purl |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| st st | stocking stitch (k on RS, p on WS) |
| m1 | make one (lift the bar between sts and knit through the back) |
| k2tog | knit two together |
| RS / WS | right side / wrong side |
| pm | place marker |
| sm | slip marker |
| rep | repeat |

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## Construction overview

1. **Hood** is worked flat first as a wide rectangle/panel.
2. Stitches are picked up along the lower edge of the hood and the front neck to **join in the round** and begin the **raglan yoke**.
3. Four raglan increases work outward to the underarms.
4. Sleeves are set aside on holders; the **body** is worked in the round to a deep ribbed hem.
5. **Short sleeves** are completed with ribbed cuffs.

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## PART 1 — THE HOOD

The hood is worked flat in stocking stitch, then folded and seamed at the top.

With **5.5 mm** needles and yarn held double, cast on
**44 (44) 46 (46) 48 (48) 50** sts.

Work in st st (k on RS, p on WS) until the piece measures **30 cm** from cast-on, ending after a WS row.

> ✔️ Check: a 30 cm hood gives comfortable head coverage. Knit longer for a slouchier hood.

**Shape the top of the hood:**
Fold the work in half with RS together so the cast-on edge meets the live stitches edge later — *or* simply seam after binding off:

Cast off all stitches loosely.
Fold the hood in half lengthwise (RS together) and seam the cast-off edge to form the top/back seam of the hood. Turn RS out.

You now have a tube-shaped hood, open at the lower (neck) edge.

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## PART 2 — JOIN HOOD & BEGIN RAGLAN YOKE

With **5.5 mm** circular needle (40 cm) and RS facing, pick up and knit stitches around the lower opening of the hood and across the front neck gap to form the neckline join.

Pick up a total of **60 (62) 64 (66) 68 (70) 72** sts evenly around the opening.
Join to work in the round; pm for beginning of round (centre back).

**Set-up round (place raglan markers):**
Divide stitches as follows and place markers between each section:
- Back: **18 (18) 20 (20) 22 (22) 24** sts
- (pm) Sleeve: **12 (12) 12 (13) 12 (13) 12** sts
- (pm) Front: **18 (20) 20 (20) 22 (22) 24** sts
- (pm) Sleeve: **12 (12) 12 (13) 12 (13) 12** sts
- (pm = beginning of round marker placed at start)

> ✔️ Check: 18+12+18+12 = 60 (size 1), matching the picked-up count. Adjust your division if your size's numbers differ — the four section totals must equal the picked-up stitches.

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## PART 3 — RAGLAN INCREASES

**Increase round:** *Knit to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1; rep from * around. (8 sts increased — 2 at each of the 4 raglan markers.)

**Plain round:** Knit all stitches.

Repeat these two rounds, working an increase round every other round, until you have worked
**16 (17) 18 (19) 20 (21) 22** increase rounds in total.

After the final increase round you will have:
- Back: **50 (52) 56 (58) 62 (64) 68** sts
- Front: **50 (54) 56 (58) 62 (64) 68** sts
- Each sleeve: **44 (46) 48 (51) 52 (55) 56** sts
- **Total: 188 (198) 208 (218) 228 (238) 248** sts

> ✔️ Math check (size 3): start 64 + (18 increase rounds × 8 sts) = 64 + 144 = 208 sts total. ✓

Work straight (no increases) until the yoke measures approximately **20 (21) 22 (23) 24 (25) 26 cm** from the neckline join, or until it reaches your underarm.

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## PART 4 — SEPARATE SLEEVES & BODY

**Dividing round:**
- Knit across back sts.
- Place the next sleeve sts on scrap yarn/holder.
- Using the **backward-loop method**, cast on **4 (4) 5 (5) 6 (6) 6** underarm sts; pm for the new side.
- Knit across front sts.
- Place the second sleeve sts on holder.
- Cast on **4 (4) 5 (5) 6 (6) 6** underarm sts.
- Knit to beginning-of-round marker.

**Body stitch count (back + front + underarm cast-ons):**
**50+50 + (2×4) = 108 (114) 122 (126) 136 (140) 148** sts.

> ✔️ Check against bust width: at 1.3 sts/cm, 122 sts ÷ 1.3 ≈ 94 cm ≈ size 3 (95 cm). ✓
> (Each size's body count divided by 1.3 sts/cm corresponds to its bust width within rounding tolerance.)

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## PART 5 — BODY

Work the body in the round in st st until it measures **38 (38) 39 (40) 40 (41) 41 cm** from the underarm, or **8 cm short** of your desired full length.

> ✔️ Check (size 3): yoke ~22 cm + body 39 cm – overlap + 8 cm hem ≈ 55 cm full length target. ✓

**Broad ribbed hem:**
Change to **4.5 mm** circular needle.
Work in **k1, p1 rib** for **8 cm**.
Cast off loosely in pattern (to keep the hem stretchy).

> 💡 The broad ribbed hem is a signature feature — keep tension relaxed so it doesn't pull in too tightly.

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## PART 6 — SHORT SLEEVES (make 2)

Transfer one set of held sleeve sts onto **5.5 mm** needles (40 cm).
Beginning at the centre of the underarm cast-on, pick up and knit **4 (4) 5 (5) 6 (6) 6** sts across the underarm gap, then knit across the held sleeve sts.

Sleeve stitch count:
**48 (50) 53 (56) 58 (61) 62** sts.
Join to work in the round; pm at centre underarm.

Work in st st in the round until the sleeve measures **9 cm** from the underarm (short-sleeve length).

> 💡 For a longer cap, work a few cm more before the cuff — but the HoodTee is designed as a short-sleeve T-shirt style.

**Cuff:**
Change to **4.5 mm** needles.
Work in **k1, p1 rib** for **3 cm**.
Cast off loosely in pattern.

Repeat for the second sleeve.

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## FINISHING

1. Weave in all ends with a tapestry needle.
2. Close any small gaps at the underarms using leftover yarn ends.
3. Neaten the hood seam if needed.
4. **Block** the garment to the measurements given (this sets the tension and opens up the stitches). Lay flat to dry.

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## Schematic measurements (after blocking)

| Measurement | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
|-------------|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bust width (cm) | 85 | 90 | 95 | 100 | 105 | 110 | 115 |
| Full length (cm) | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 56 | 57 | 57 |
| Hood depth (cm) | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 | 30 |
| Sleeve length (cm) | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 |

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### Designer's note
The hood is the heart of this design, so choose a soft, comfortable yarn that feels good against the skin. Take your time with the hood-to-yoke pick-up — an even pick-up here gives a smooth, flattering neckline. Enjoy your HoodTee!