purlJam

<pattern>

# **IRISH LACE BUSTIER CORSET**
### *An Advanced Crochet Lingerie Pattern*

A sophisticated bustier-style corset featuring structured cups, side boning, and an exquisite Irish lace crochet overlay. The lace-up front closure provides adjustable fit while showcasing romantic floral motifs. This advanced pattern combines garment construction techniques with traditional Irish lace crochet for a truly high-end result.

---

## **MATERIALS**

### For Structural Base:
- **Yarn**: Worsted weight yarn (#4), cotton or cotton-blend recommended for structure and comfort
  - Size S: 400 yards
  - Size M: 450 yards  
  - Size L: 500 yards
  - Suggested: Lily Sugar'n Cream or Knit Picks Comfy Worsted
  
### For Irish Lace Overlay:
- **Thread/Yarn**: Fingering weight yarn (#1) or crochet thread size 10
  - All sizes: 600-800 yards in cream, white, or ivory
  - Suggested: Aunt Lydia's Classic Crochet Thread Size 10 or Knit Picks Stroll Fingering

### Hooks:
- **Size G/6 (4.0 mm)** for structural base (or size needed to obtain gauge)
- **Size B/1 (2.25 mm)** or **Steel hook size 7 (1.65 mm)** for lace overlay
- **Size E/4 (3.5 mm)** for edging

### Notions:
- 6-8 spiral steel boning pieces, cut to 6-8" lengths
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- 3 yards of 1/2" wide grosgrain ribbon (for boning channels)
- 2.5 yards of 3/8" satin ribbon or cording (for lacing)
- 12-16 metal eyelets (size 1/4") and eyelet setter OR crochet eyelet method
- Sewing needle and thread to match
- Optional: 2 underwire channels and underwires sized to cups
- Optional: Fabric lining (1/2 yard stretch cotton/spandex)

---

## **SIZES**

Pattern is written for sizes Small (Medium, Large)

**Finished Measurements:**
- **Underbust circumference**: 28-30 (30-32, 32-34)"
- **Bust circumference** (at fullest point): 32-34 (34-36, 36-38)"
- **Cup size accommodation**: B-C (C-D, D-DD)
- **Length** (underbust to top of cup): 6 (6.5, 7)"

*Note: The lace-up front provides approximately 2" of adjustment in each direction.*

---

## **GAUGE**

**Critical for proper fit!**

### Structural Base:
18 sc × 20 rows = 4" × 4" with worsted weight yarn and size G/6 (4.0 mm) hook
- Worked firmly for support
- Measure gauge after blocking

### Irish Lace Overlay:
Motif gauge with fingering weight and size B/1 (2.25 mm) hook:
- Rose Motif = 2.5" diameter
- Leaf Motif = 2" long × 1" wide
- Mesh fill gauge: 24 sts × 12 rows = 4" × 4"

---

## **ABBREVIATIONS**

- ch = chain
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- tr = treble crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (decrease)
- dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
- sc3tog = single crochet 3 together
- BLO = back loop only
- FLO = front loop only
- BPsc = back post single crochet
- FPdc = front post double crochet
- picot = ch 3, sl st in first ch
- RS = right side
- WS = wrong side
- ( ) = work instructions within parentheses in stitch indicated
- [ ] = repeat instructions within brackets
- * = repeat instructions following asterisk

---

## **PATTERN NOTES**

1. **Construction order**: Each cup is worked separately from bottom to top in rows, side panels worked in rows, back panel worked in rows, pieces joined, lace overlay motifs created separately and joined/appliquéd over base.

2. **Stitch counts**: Provided at the end of each row in parentheses.

3. **Turning chains**: Ch 1 at beginning of sc rows does NOT count as a stitch. Ch 2 at beginning of hdc rows does NOT count as stitch.

4. **Tight gauge is essential**: This garment requires firm fabric for structure and support. Work stitches snugly.

5. **Direction**: All structural pieces worked in rows (back and forth).

6. **Seaming**: Use mattress stitch or sl st seaming for invisible joins.

7. **Customization**: Adjust length by working more or fewer rows in straight sections before shaping.

8. **Sizing note**: Measure your underbust snugly and full bust loosely. Choose size based on underbust measurement; the lace-up front accommodates cup size variation.

9. **Boning placement**: Will be inserted in side seams and vertical channels for structure.

---

## **SPECIAL STITCHES**

### Picot
Ch 3, sl st in first ch of the ch-3.

### Solomon's Knot (for Irish lace mesh)
*Draw up loop on hook to 1/2", yo and draw through loop (keeping the long loop), insert hook between the long strand and the single back strand of the elongated st just made, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through both loops on hook.* This creates one Solomon's Knot.

### Shell Stitch
(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in same stitch or space indicated.

---

## **INSTRUCTIONS**

### STRUCTURAL BASE

#### **RIGHT CUP** (Make 1)

**Setup:**
With worsted weight yarn and size G/6 (4.0 mm) hook, ch 23 (25, 27).

**Row 1 (RS):** Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (22, 24, 26 sc)

**Row 2:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (22, 24, 26 sc)

**Rows 3-8:** Repeat Row 2. (22, 24, 26 sc)

**Begin Cup Shaping:**

**Row 9 (RS):** Ch 1, turn, sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, sc in each st to last 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in last st. (24, 26, 28 sc)

**Row 10:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (24, 26, 28 sc)

**Row 11:** Repeat Row 9. (26, 28, 30 sc)

**Row 12:** Repeat Row 10. (26, 28, 30 sc)

**Row 13:** Repeat Row 9. (28, 30, 32 sc)

**Rows 14-16:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (28, 30, 32 sc)

**Top Edge Shaping (Short Rows):**

**Row 17 (RS):** Ch 1, turn, sc in first 20 (22, 24) sts, leave remaining sts unworked. (20, 22, 24 sc)

**Row 18:** Ch 1, turn, sc in first 12 (14, 16) sts, leave remaining sts unworked. (12, 14, 16 sc)

**Row 19:** Ch 1, turn, sc in first 8 (9, 10) sts, leave remaining sts unworked. (8, 9, 10 sc)

**Row 20:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8, 9, 10 sc)

**Strap Extension (optional):**

**Rows 21-24:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8, 9, 10 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 12" tail for seaming.

**Edging (work around entire cup):**
Join yarn at bottom right corner (where you began). Ch 1, work sc evenly around entire cup edge, working 3 sc in each corner. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.

---

#### **LEFT CUP** (Make 1)

Work same as Right Cup through Row 16.

**Top Edge Shaping (Short Rows - mirrored):**

**Row 17 (RS):** Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st across. (27, 29, 31 sc)

**Row 18:** Ch 1, turn, sc in first 20 (22, 24) sts, leave remaining sts unworked. (20, 22, 24 sc)

**Row 19:** Ch 1, turn, sc in first 12 (14, 16) sts, leave remaining sts unworked. (12, 14, 16 sc)

**Row 20:** Ch 1, turn, sc in first 8 (9, 10) sts, leave remaining sts unworked. (8, 9, 10 sc)

**Row 21:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8, 9, 10 sc)

**Strap Extension (optional):**

**Rows 22-25:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8, 9, 10 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 12" tail for seaming.

Work edging as for Right Cup.

---

#### **RIGHT SIDE PANEL** (Make 1)

This panel runs from center front (under cup) around to center back.

**Setup:**
With worsted weight yarn and size G/6 (4.0 mm) hook, ch 13 (15, 17).

**Row 1 (RS):** Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12, 14, 16 sc)

**Rows 2-12:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (12, 14, 16 sc)

**Waist Shaping (decreases):**

**Row 13:** Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (10, 12, 14 sc)

**Rows 14-15:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10, 12, 14 sc)

**Row 16:** Repeat Row 13. (8, 10, 12 sc)

**Rows 17-20:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (8, 10, 12 sc)

**Hip Shaping (increases):**

**Row 21:** Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (10, 12, 14 sc)

**Rows 22-23:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (10, 12, 14 sc)

**Row 24:** Repeat Row 21. (12, 14, 16 sc)

**Rows 25-32:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (12, 14, 16 sc)

Fasten off, leaving 12" tail.

---

#### **LEFT SIDE PANEL** (Make 1)

Work same as Right Side Panel.

---

#### **BACK PANEL** (Make 1)

**Setup:**
Ch 33 (37, 41).

**Row 1 (RS):** Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (32, 36, 40 sc)

**Rows 2-12:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (32, 36, 40 sc)

**Waist Shaping:**

**Row 13:** Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in each st to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (30, 34, 38 sc)

**Rows 14-15:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (30, 34, 38 sc)

**Row 16:** Repeat Row 13. (28, 32, 36 sc)

**Rows 17-20:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (28, 32, 36 sc)

**Hip Shaping:**

**Row 21:** Ch 1, turn, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (30, 34, 38 sc)

**Rows 22-23:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (30, 34, 38 sc)

**Row 24:** Repeat Row 21. (32, 36, 40 sc)

**Rows 25-32:** Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (32, 36, 40 sc)

Fasten off, leaving 12" tail.

---

#### **CENTER FRONT LACING PANEL** (Make 2)

These reinforced strips will have eyelets for lacing.

**Setup:**
Ch 9.

**Row 1:** Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (8 sc)

**Rows 2-48 (50, 52):** Ch 1, turn, working in BLO, sc in each st across. (8 sc)

Fasten off.

**Eyelet Placement:**
Mark 8 evenly spaced positions along one long edge for eyelets (approximately every 6 rows). Either install metal eyelets with eyelet setter according to manufacturer's instructions, OR create crochet eyelets:

**Crochet Eyelet