purlJam

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# ADVENT LACE SHAWL
### A Top-Down Triangular Lace Shawl for Worsted-Weight Advent Mini Skeins

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## ABOUT THIS PATTERN

This show-stopping shawl transforms a set of 24 advent mini skeins into a cascading lace triangle that celebrates every color in your collection. Beginning with just a few chains at the center top, the shawl grows outward in symmetrical lace fans on either side of a central spine. The worsted-weight yarn keeps the lace substantial enough to wear as a true wrap, while blocking opens the pattern into airy, elegant drape. Each mini skein becomes a bold stripe, so your finished shawl tells the story of your advent collection from top edge to tip.

**Difficulty:** Advanced
**Construction:** Top-down triangular, worked flat in rows

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## FINISHED MEASUREMENTS (After Blocking)

| Measurement | Imperial | Metric |
|---|---|---|
| Width (top edge to tip of each wing) | 54 inches | 137 cm |
| Depth (center top to bottom point) | 27 inches | 69 cm |

*Note: Lace fabric grows significantly during blocking. Unblocked dimensions will be approximately 38 inches (97 cm) wide × 18 inches (46 cm) deep.*

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## MATERIALS

### Yarn
- **Worsted weight yarn** (Category 4), approximately 480 yards (439 m) total
- **24 mini skeins** of approximately 20 yards (18 m) each
- Shown in an advent mini skein set; any smooth worsted-weight yarn in 24 colors works beautifully
- **Fiber recommendation:** A blend containing natural fiber (wool, alpaca, or cotton) blocks most effectively. 100% acrylic is not recommended as it will not block open.

> **Yardage Note:** Mini skein yardage varies by dyer. Before beginning, weigh each skein or measure yardage. Skeins with fewer than 18 yards (16.5 m) may need to span only 1 row; skeins with more than 22 yards (20 m) may stretch to 3 rows. See Color Change Schedule for guidance.

### Hook
- **US Size J-10 / 6 mm** crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge)
- A larger hook (US K-10.5 / 6.5 mm) may be used for looser, drapier fabric

### Notions
- Tapestry needle for weaving ends
- Blocking mats (at least 24 × 36 inches / 61 × 91 cm)
- Rust-proof T-pins (approximately 60–80 pins)
- Spray bottle filled with water, OR large basin for wet blocking
- Stitch markers: 2 locking markers
- Scissors

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## GAUGE

**14 dc = 4 inches (10 cm)**
**6 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)** in double crochet lace pattern, **after blocking**

> **Gauge Note:** Gauge is measured after blocking because lace fabric transforms significantly when wet-set. Crochet a swatch of at least 20 dc × 10 rows, weave in ends, block following the instructions at the end of this pattern, and measure when fully dry. Adjust hook size as needed. A slightly looser gauge is preferred for lace — it is better to go up a hook size than to work too tightly.

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## ABBREVIATIONS

| Abbreviation | Meaning |
|---|---|
| ch | chain |
| ch-sp | chain space |
| dc | double crochet |
| dc2tog | double crochet 2 together (decrease) |
| rep | repeat |
| RS | right side |
| sk | skip |
| sl st | slip stitch |
| sp | space |
| st(s) | stitch(es) |
| t-ch | turning chain |
| WS | wrong side |
| yo | yarn over |

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## SPECIAL STITCHES

### Shell
**Shell:** Work (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all into the same stitch or space.
*This stitch creates a 3-dc fan and is the primary lace unit of this pattern.*

### Center Spine Shell
**Spine Shell:** Work (dc, ch 2, dc) into the center spine ch-2 space.
*This stitch maintains the center spine and creates the visual centerline of the shawl.*

### V-Stitch
**V-st:** Work (dc, ch 2, dc) into the same stitch or space.
*Used at the outer edges of the shawl.*

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## PATTERN NOTES

1. **Right Side (RS) rows** are the increase rows where the shawl grows wider. **Wrong Side (WS) rows** are simple return rows worked across all stitches and spaces.

2. The shawl is worked **flat, back and forth in rows**, turning at the end of each row.

3. **Turning chain:** The turning chain of 3 counts as the first dc of every row throughout this pattern. At the end of each row, the final dc is worked into the top of the turning chain from the previous row.

4. **Color changes:** Change to the new color on the **last yarn over of the last dc** of a row, so the new color appears cleanly at the start of the next row. Always begin a new skein at the **beginning of a RS row** (odd-numbered rows) when possible. See Color Change Schedule.

5. **Weaving ends:** Each color change creates two ends (old color, new color). Do not cut until 6 inches (15 cm) of tail remains; this gives enough length to weave in securely. Weave ends into the chain spaces along the top edge for the most invisible finish.

6. **Stitch markers:** Place a locking marker in the center spine ch-2 space at the end of each RS row to help locate it on the return WS row.

7. **Lace repeat math:** The lace pattern has a **6-stitch/space repeat** framed by edge stitches. Every RS row adds one 6-stitch repeat to each side of the shawl (12 stitches total per RS row). This means the stitch count increases predictably and you can check your work at any point.

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## STITCH COUNT PROGRESSION

After each RS row, the total stitch count (counting each dc as 1 st and each ch-1 or ch-2 space as 1 sp) is as follows:

| After RS Row # | Total dc Count | Total sts + spaces (working count) |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 5 dc | 5 |
| 2 | 11 dc | 11 |
| 4 | 23 dc | 23 |
| 6 | 35 dc | 35 |
| 12 | 71 dc | 71 |
| 24 | 143 dc | 143 |
| 48 | 287 dc | 287 |

*Formula: Row n (RS) = 5 + (n−1) × 6 dc. After all 48 RS rows: 5 + (47 × 6) = 5 + 282 = **287 dc** across final row.*

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## CONSTRUCTION OVERVIEW

```
         ● ← Foundation chain (6 ch)
        /|\
       / | \
      /  |  \       ← Center spine runs down the middle
     /   |   \
    /  LACE   \
   / FANS ADD  \
  /  EACH ROW   \
 /________________\
        ↑
   Bottom edge (Row 96 = WS Row 48)
```

The shawl begins at the top center with a 6-chain foundation. Row 1 establishes the center spine and the first two "anchor" dc on each side. Every RS row thereafter adds one lace Shell repeat to each side of the spine, growing the triangle symmetrically. WS rows simply work across all stitches, maintaining the lace holes without adding width.

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## PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

### FOUNDATION

With your first color, **ch 6.**

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### ROW 1 (RS — Establish Spine)

**Turn**, dc in 4th ch from hook *(the skipped 3 ch count as first dc)*, ch 2, sk 2 ch, (dc, ch 2, dc) in last ch. **Turn.**

> **Stitch count check:** 5 dc, 2 ch-2 spaces. ✓

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### ROW 2 (WS — First Return Row)

Ch 3 *(counts as dc)*, dc in first ch-2 sp, ch 1, (dc, ch 2, dc) in next ch-2 sp *(spine sp)*, ch 1, dc in t-ch sp, dc in top of t-ch. **Turn.**

> **Stitch count check:** 6 dc, 1 center ch-2 sp, 2 ch-1 sps. ✓

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### ROW 3 (RS — Increase Row)

Ch 3 *(counts as dc)*, **Shell** in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, **Spine Shell** in center ch-2 sp, ch 1, **Shell** in last ch-1 sp, dc in top of t-ch. **Turn.**

> *Shell = (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc). Spine Shell = (dc, ch 2, dc).*
> **Stitch count check:** 9 dc, 1 center ch-2 sp, 4 ch-1 sps, 2 edge dc. = 11 dc total. ✓

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### ROW 4 (WS)

Ch 3 *(counts as dc)*, dc in first ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in center ch-2 spine sp*, ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in top of t-ch. **Turn.**

> **Stitch count check:** 8 dc, 4 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 spine sp. ✓

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### ESTABLISHING THE FULL LACE PATTERN (Rows 5 onward)

Beginning with Row 5, the shawl enters its full lace rhythm. The pattern is worked in **two-row sequences** (one RS increase row + one WS return row). Once you understand the rhythm of these two rows, the shawl works up quickly.

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#### RS INCREASE ROW (All odd-numbered rows from Row 5 onward)

**Ch 3** *(counts as dc)*, **Shell** in first ch-1 sp,
*[ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp] rep to 1 sp before center spine sp*,
ch 1, **Shell** in ch-1 sp immediately before center spine sp,
ch 1, **Spine Shell** in center ch-2 sp,
ch 1, **Shell** in first ch-1 sp after center spine sp,
*[ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp] rep to last ch-1 sp*,
ch 1, **Shell** in last ch-1 sp,
dc in top of t-ch. **Turn.**

> **Increase logic:** Each RS row adds one Shell (3 dc + 2 ch-1 sps) to each side of the spine, adding 6 stitches/spaces per side per row, for a total increase of **12 stitches/spaces per RS row**. ✓

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#### WS RETURN ROW (All even-numbered rows from Row 6 onward)

**Ch 3** *(counts as dc)*, dc in first ch-1 sp,
*[ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp OR dc in next dc — see note] rep across to center spine sp*,
(dc, ch 2, dc) in center spine ch-2 sp *(this maintains the spine)*,
*[dc in next dc OR ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp] rep across to last ch-1 sp*,
dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in top of t-ch. **Turn.**

> **WS Row Note:** On WS rows, work a **dc** into each dc from the previous row and a **ch 1, skip** over each ch-1 space from the previous row. This preserves all the lace holes. The center spine always receives (dc, ch 2, dc) to maintain the ch-2 space for the next RS row.

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### HOW TO READ YOUR PROGRESS

At the end of any RS row, count your dc stitches. Use the formula:

**Total dc = 5 + (RS row number − 1) × 6**

For example, after RS Row 10: 5 + (9 × 6) = 5 + 54 = **59 dc.** If your count differs, recount the current row before proceeding — it is much easier to fix an error immediately than to rip back many rows.

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### CONTINUE WORKING

Work RS Increase Rows and WS Return Rows alternately until you have completed **48 RS rows and 48 WS rows = 96 rows total**, OR until your yarn supply is nearly exhausted (leave enough for a final border, approximately 15 yards / 13.7 m).

**Final row (WS Row 48) dc count: 287 dc.** ✓

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## COLOR CHANGE SCHEDULE

This schedule is designed for **24 mini skeins of approximately 20 yards (18 m) each**, totaling approximately 480 yards (439 m).

### Recommended Color Sequence

Each mini skein spans **2 rows** (1 RS row + 1 WS row). Because the shawl grows with each row, later rows use more yarn than earlier rows. The schedule below accounts for this by assigning extra yardage options to the widest rows.

| Skein # | Suggested Color Description | Rows Covered | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Color A (lightest / first advent color) | Rows 1–2 | Foundation + first return |
| 2 | Color B | Rows 3–4 | |
| 3 | Color C | Rows 5–6 | |
| 4 | Color D | Rows 7–8 | |
| 5 | Color E | Rows 9–10 | |
| 6 | Color F | Rows 11–12 | |
| 7 | Color G | Rows 13–14 | |
| 8 | Color H | Rows 15–16 | |
| 9 | Color I | Rows 17–18 | |
| 10 | Color J | Rows 19–20 | |
| 11 | Color K | Rows 21–22 | |
| 12 | Color L | Rows 23–24 | |
| 13 | Color M | Rows 25–26 | |
| 14 | Color N | Rows 27–28 | |
| 15 | Color O | Rows 29–30 | |
| 16 | Color P | Rows 31–32 | |
| 17 | Color Q | Rows 33–34 | |
| 18 | Color R | Rows 35–36 | |
| 19 | Color S | Rows 37–38 | |
| 20 | Color T | Rows 39–40 | |
| 21 | Color U | Rows 41–42 | |
| 22 | Color V | Rows 43–44 | |
| 23 | Color W | Rows 45–46 | |
| 24 | Color X (deepest / final advent color) | Rows 47–48 | Save 15 yds for border |

> **Flexibility Note:** If a skein runs short, end it at the completion of any full row and begin the next skein. If a skein has extra yardage, continue one additional WS row before switching. The pattern is forgiving — an extra row in a color simply widens that stripe. Prioritize completing full row pairs to keep color changes at row beginnings.

> **Color Order Tip:** Advent mini skeins are designed to be opened in order. Work through your skeins in the order they were intended to be opened for a meaningful, story-telling shawl. Alternatively, arrange by hue (darkest to lightest or lightest to darkest) for an ombre effect.

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## BORDER (Optional but Recommended)

A simple border stabilizes the edges and gives the shawl a finished look.

Using your final color (or a coordinating solid yarn), with RS facing:

**Round 1:** Join yarn at top right corner. Ch 1, sc evenly across top edge (approximately 2 sc per row-end), 3 sc in corner st, sc down right side edge, 3 sc in bottom point, sc up left side edge to top left corner, 3 sc in corner st, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off. **Do not turn.**

**Round 2:** Join yarn at any corner. Ch 4 *(counts as dc + ch 1)*, *(dc, ch 1)* in same st, *sk 1 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1) in next sc,* rep from * around, sl st to 3rd ch of t-ch to join. Fasten off.

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## FINISHING

### Weaving in Ends

Thread each yarn tail onto a tapestry needle. Weave each end through at least **4 chain spaces** along the top edge or along a WS row, changing direction once. Trim to ½ inch (1.3 cm). The lace will hold the ends securely after blocking.

> **Pro Tip:** With 24 color changes, you will have approximately **48 ends** to weave in (2 per color change). Weave in ends as you go — after every 4–6 color changes — rather than waiting until the end. This makes the finishing session far less daunting.

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## BLOCKING INSTRUCTIONS

**Blocking is not optional for this pattern.** Unblocked, the shawl will look dense and bunched. Blocking transforms it into the open, drapey lace piece the pattern is designed to be, adding approximately 40% to the width and 50% to the depth.

### What You Need
- Blocking mats (interlocking foam mats work well)
- 60–80 rust-proof T-pins
- Basin or sink large enough to submerge the shawl
- Clean towels (2–3)
- Flat drying surface out of direct sunlight

### Step 1: Soak

Fill a basin with **cool to lukewarm water** (never hot — heat can felt wool). Submerge the shawl completely and gently press it down to saturate. Do not agitate, wring, or rub. Allow to soak for **20–30 minutes.** The fibers need time to fully absorb the water and relax.

> **For acrylic blends:** Use the same soaking method. While pure acrylic cannot be wet-blocked permanently, a fiber blend containing at least 30% natural fiber will hold its blocked shape.

### Step 2: Remove Excess Water

Lift the shawl gently from the water, supporting its full weight — wet yarn is heavy and can stretch under its own weight if handled carelessly. Do **not** wring. Lay the shawl on a clean, dry towel, roll the towel up with the shawl inside, and press firmly to remove excess water. Repeat with a second towel if needed. The shawl should be damp but not dripping.

### Step 3: Pin

Lay out your blocking mats in a flat area. Place the shawl on the mats with the **RS facing up.**

1. **Find the center top:** Pin the center spine at the top edge first. Place a pin at each of the two top corners, stretching the top edge to the full 54-inch (137 cm) width.
2. **Pin the bottom point:** Stretch the shawl downward and pin the bottom center point at 27 inches (69 cm) below the top edge.
3. **Pin the straight edges:** Working outward from the top corners toward the bottom point along each diagonal edge, place pins every **1–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm),** gently tugging each pin outward to open the lace. The goal is a smooth, straight diagonal line on each side.
4. **Pin the lace points:** If your border or edge stitches create scallops or points, pin each point individually for maximum definition.
5. **Final check:** Step back and look at the shawl from a distance. Adjust any pins where the line looks uneven. The two sides should mirror each other symmetrically.

### Step 4: Dry

Allow the shawl to dry **completely and thoroughly** before removing any pins. Depending on your climate and fiber content, this may take **12–48 hours.** A fan directed at the shawl (not direct heat) can speed drying.

**Do not remove pins until the shawl is bone dry.** Removing pins too early — even if the surface feels dry but the interior is still damp — will cause the shawl to contract back toward its unblocked dimensions.

### Step 5: Unpin and Enjoy

Remove all pins gently. The shawl will hold its blocked dimensions when worn and stored, provided it is re-blocked after washing.

### Washing Instructions (for longevity)

Hand wash in cool water with a small amount of wool wash or gentle fiber wash. Do not agitate. Roll in a towel to remove water, then re-block or lay flat to dry. Re-block fully after every 2–3 wears to maintain the lace definition.

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## PATTERN SUMMARY CARD

*Quick reference for experienced crocheters:*

- **Foundation:** Ch 6.
- **Row 1 (RS):** Dc in 4th ch, ch 2, sk 2, V-st in last ch. Turn. *(5 dc)*
- **Row 2 (WS):** Ch 3, dc in ch-2 sp, ch 1, Spine Shell in center sp, ch 1, dc in ch-2 sp, dc in t-ch. Turn.
- **RS rows (odd, Row 3+):** Ch 3, Shell in first ch-1 sp, [ch 1, dc in next ch-1 sp] to 1 sp before center, Shell in sp before center, Spine Shell in center ch-2 sp, Shell in first sp after center, [ch 1, dc in ch-1 sp] to last ch-1 sp, Shell in last sp, dc in t-ch. Turn. *(+6 dc per RS row)*
- **WS rows (even):** Ch 3, dc in first ch-1 sp, [ch 1, dc across] to center, Spine Shell in center sp, [dc, ch 1 across] to end, dc in t-ch. Turn.
- **Work 48 RS rows + 48 WS rows = 96 rows total.**
- **Final dc count: 287 dc.** ✓
- **Change colors every 2 rows (1 RS + 1 WS) across 24 skeins.**
- **Block to 54 × 27 inches (137 × 69 cm).**

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## ABBREVIATION QUICK REFERENCE

**ch** = chain | **ch-sp** = chain space | **dc** = double crochet | **RS** = right side | **sk** = skip | **sl st** = slip stitch | **sp** = space | **st(s)** = stitch(es) | **t-ch** = turning chain | **WS** = wrong side | **yo** = yarn over

**Shell** = (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) in same sp | **Spine Shell** = (dc, ch 2, dc) in center sp | **V-st** = (dc, ch 2, dc) in same sp

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*Pattern designed for advent mini skeins in worsted weight. All measurements are given in imperial first with metric in parentheses. US crochet terminology used throughout.*

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