Little Raglan Pullover

A seamless top-down sweater for babies and children

Skill level: Beginner

A classic crew-neck raglan knitted entirely in the round from the neck down—no seams to irritate little ones, and you can try it on as you go. Stockinette fabric with ribbed neck, hem, and cuffs keeps the knitting simple. Choose a soft, machine-washable worsted yarn; parents will thank you.

Sizes

0–3 mo (3–6 mo, 6–12 mo, 12–18 mo, 18–24 mo, 2T, 4T, 6, 8, 10, 12)

Shown with 2–3¼" (5–8.5 cm) positive ease for growing room. Choose the size closest to the child’s actual chest plus ease, or the size you want them to grow into.

Instructions are written for the smallest size, with larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. Circle your size throughout before you begin.

Finished Measurements

Chest circumference: 19¼ (20¾, 22½, 24, 24¾, 25½, 27¼, 28¾, 30½, 32¾, 34½)" / 49 (53, 57, 61, 63, 65, 69, 73, 77.5, 83, 87.5) cm

Yoke depth (cast-on to underarm): 5 (5¼, 5½, 5¾, 6, 6½, 6¾, 7¼, 8, 8, 8½)" / 12.5 (13.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 16.5, 17, 18.5, 20.5, 20.5, 21.5) cm

Length from underarm to hem: 6 (6½, 7½, 8½, 9½, 10½, 11½, 13, 14½, 16, 17½)" / 15 (16.5, 19, 21.5, 24, 26.5, 29, 33, 37, 40.5, 44.5) cm

Total length (back neck to hem): 11 (11¾, 13, 14¼, 15½, 17, 18¼, 20¼, 22½, 24, 26)" / 28 (30, 33, 36, 39.5, 43, 46.5, 51.5, 57, 61, 66) cm

Upper arm circumference: 7¼ (8, 8¾, 9½, 10, 10, 10¾, 11¼, 12½, 13¼, 13½)" / 18.5 (20.5, 22, 24, 25.5, 25.5, 27.5, 28.5, 32, 33.5, 34.5) cm

Sleeve length (underarm to cuff edge): 6 (6½, 7½, 8½, 9, 10½, 11½, 13, 14½, 16, 17)" / 15 (16.5, 19, 21.5, 23, 26.5, 29, 33, 37, 40.5, 43) cm

Lengths are written slightly generous for diaper room in the smaller sizes. Because this is top-down, you can add or subtract length on the body and sleeves as you knit.

Yarn

Worsted weight (CYC 4), soft and machine-washable—superwash wool, cotton, or a washable wool/acrylic blend.

250 (300, 350, 400, 450, 550, 650, 750, 875, 1000, 1150) yd / 230 (275, 320, 365, 410, 505, 595, 685, 800, 915, 1050) m

Approximately 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6) skeins of 200 yd / 183 m worsted.

Sample idea: a washable merino or merino blend in a light color so raglan lines stay easy to see while you learn.

Needles

• US 5 / 3.75 mm — 16" (40 cm) circular and a set of double-pointed needles (DPNs), or a 32" (80 cm) circular for magic loop (neck, hem, and cuffs)
• US 7 / 4.5 mm — 16" (40 cm) and 24" (60 cm) circulars and DPNs, or a 32" (80 cm) circular for magic loop (yoke, body, and sleeves)

Use whichever small-circumference method you prefer (magic loop, DPNs, or two circulars). You will not be able to use a 16" needle at the neck of the smaller sizes—the stitch count is too small. Switch to a 16" circular only once the yoke is comfortably large.

Adjust needle size if needed to obtain gauge.

Notions

• 4 stitch markers (one unique for beginning of round)
• Waste yarn or stitch holders
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Gauge

20 stitches and 28 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch in the round on larger needles, after blocking.

Swatch in the round. Row/round gauge matters here because it controls yoke depth and sleeve length.

Notes

• The sweater is worked in the round from the top down. The neck is sized to stretch over a child’s head; cast on loosely and bind off loosely in pattern.
• Raglan increases use kfb (knit into the front and back of the stitch)—the most beginner-friendly increase. The little bumps form a visible raglan line.
• Try it on. After the yoke increases, slip stitches onto waste yarn or a long circular and check armhole depth. Work extra even rounds if you need more depth; if it is already deep enough, skip the extra even rounds.
• Body and sleeve lengths are easy to customize. Knit to the length you want before starting the ribbing.
• Keep the fabric soft: choose a machine-washable yarn and avoid scratchy wool next to the skin.
• Stripes are an easy upgrade: change colors at the start of any round and carry unused yarn up the inside for short stripes.

Abbreviations (US)

BO — bind off BOR — beginning of round CO — cast on k — knit k2tog — knit 2 stitches together (1 st decreased) kfb — knit into the front and back of the same stitch (1 st increased) p — purl pm — place marker rnd(s) — round(s) sl m — slip marker ssk — slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, knit those 2 sts together through the back loop (1 st decreased) st(s) — stitch(es) St st — stockinette stitch (knit every round when working in the round)

Pattern

Neck

With smaller needle and using a stretchy method (long-tail cast-on worked loosely is fine; a German twisted cast-on is even stretchier if you know it), CO 56 (64, 64, 72, 72, 76, 76, 80, 84, 88, 92) sts. Place unique marker for BOR and join to work in the round, taking care not to twist.

Ribbing rnd: *K1, p1; rep from * to end.

Work in k1, p1 rib until neck measures 1" (2.5 cm) from the cast-on edge.

Yoke

Change to larger needle.

Setup rnd: Knit 20 (22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 32) sts (Front), pm, knit 8 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14) sts (Sleeve), pm, knit 20 (22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 32) sts (Back), pm, knit remaining 8 (10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14) sts (Sleeve) to BOR marker.

You now have 4 marked sections: Front, Sleeve, Back, Sleeve. Check: 20 + 8 + 20 + 8 = 56 sts ✓ (smallest size; other sizes follow the same Front + Sleeve + Back + Sleeve split).

Work the following 2 rounds a total of 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 16, 18, 19, 21, 23, 24) times:

Inc rnd: *Kfb, knit to 1 st before marker, kfb, sl m; rep from * 3 more times. 8 sts increased — 2 in each section.

Even rnd: Knit.

After all increase repeats you have 152 (168, 176, 192, 200, 204, 220, 232, 252, 272, 284) sts.

Check (smallest): 56 + (8 × 12) = 56 + 96 = 152 ✓ Check (size 12): 92 + (8 × 24) = 92 + 192 = 284 ✓

Stitches in each section:

• Front / Back: 44 (48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 66, 70, 76, 80) sts each
• Each sleeve: 32 (36, 38, 42, 44, 44, 48, 50, 56, 60, 62) sts

Check (smallest): 44 + 32 + 44 + 32 = 152 ✓

Work even (knit every round) for 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 6, 4, 6, 6, 4, 4) more rounds, or until yoke from the cast-on edge measures 5 (5¼, 5½, 5¾, 6, 6½, 6¾, 7¼, 8, 8, 8½)" / 12.5 (13.5, 14, 14.5, 15, 16.5, 17, 18.5, 20.5, 20.5, 21.5) cm, or desired armhole depth. Stitch count does not change.

Divide body and sleeves

Next rnd (divide): Knit 44 (48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 66, 70, 76, 80) Front sts, place the next 32 (36, 38, 42, 44, 44, 48, 50, 56, 60, 62) Sleeve sts on waste yarn or a holder, using the backward-loop (or knitted) method CO 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) underarm sts, knit 44 (48, 50, 54, 56, 58, 62, 66, 70, 76, 80) Back sts, place the next 32 (36, 38, 42, 44, 44, 48, 50, 56, 60, 62) Sleeve sts on waste yarn or a holder, CO 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 6) underarm sts.

Body now has 96 (104, 112, 120, 124, 128, 136, 144, 152, 164, 172) sts.

Check (smallest): 44 + 4 + 44 + 4 = 96 ✓ Check (size 12): 80 + 6 + 80 + 6 = 172 ✓

The BOR sits at the start of the Front (right underarm). If you prefer the BOR at the center of an underarm, slip the first 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) underarm sts and replace the marker there—optional.

Body

Work even in St st (knit every round) until body measures 4½ (5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11½, 13, 14½, 16)" / 11.5 (12.5, 15, 18, 20.5, 23, 25.5, 29, 33, 37, 40.5) cm from the underarm divide, or 1½" (4 cm) less than the total desired length from underarm.

Change to smaller needle.

Hem rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 1½" (4 cm).

Bind off loosely in rib (use the larger needle to bind off if your bind-off tends to be tight).

Sleeves

Work both sleeves the same.

Return 32 (36, 38, 42, 44, 44, 48, 50, 56, 60, 62) held sleeve sts to larger DPNs or a long circular for magic loop. With larger needle and RS facing, beginning at the center of the underarm, pick up and knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts along the first half of the underarm cast-on, knit across the held sleeve sts, pick up and knit 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) sts along the remaining underarm cast-on. Place BOR marker.

36 (40, 44, 48, 50, 50, 54, 56, 62, 66, 68) sts.

Check (smallest): 32 + 4 = 36 ✓ Check (size 12): 62 + 6 = 68 ✓

Tip: If a hole appears at either underarm corner, pick up 1 extra stitch in that gap. On the next round, knit it together with a neighboring stitch (k2tog or ssk) so you return to the stitch count above.

Knit 4 rounds even.

Decrease rnd: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 2 sts decreased.

Work Decrease rnd every 5th (4th, 5th, 5th, 5th, 6th, 6th, 7th, 6th, 7th, 7th) round 6 (8, 8, 10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 15, 15, 16) times.

24 (24, 28, 28, 28, 28, 32, 32, 32, 36, 36) sts remain.

Check (smallest): 36 − (2 × 6) = 36 − 12 = 24 ✓ Check (size 12): 68 − (2 × 16) = 68 − 32 = 36 ✓

Work even in St st until sleeve measures 4½ (5, 6, 7, 7½, 9, 10, 11½, 13, 14½, 15½)" / 11.5 (12.5, 15, 18, 19, 23, 25.5, 29, 33, 37, 39.5) cm from the underarm, or 1½" (4 cm) less than the desired total sleeve length.

Change to smaller needle (DPNs or magic loop).

Cuff rnd: *K2, p2; rep from * to end.

Work in k2, p2 rib for 1½" (4 cm).

Bind off loosely in rib.

Finishing

Weave in all ends, using the underarm tails to close any remaining gaps at the sleeve joins.

Block the sweater to the finished measurements. For superwash wool, a gentle soak and flat dry is enough; pin the raglan lines straight so they lie flat.

The ribbed neck is meant to stretch. If it feels snug on a baby, dress by gathering the body and easing the neck over the head—never force it. Because the sweater is seamless and top-down, you can also frog the neck later and re-knit it with more stitches if needed.

Wash according to the yarn label. Soft + machine-washable is the whole point of a children’s sweater.

Quick size recap (your working numbers)